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  1. #1
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    Built Kit Recs? 2011 Blur LT 2

    Considering buying a 2011 Blur LT 2 and building from the ground up. Currently own a heckler but am "upgrading" as the heckler is undersized. Looking to stay under 1,200 ish (frame excluded) when all is said and done. Any recommendations for good pre-selected build kits- or breakdowns of your own that you have success with?

    Thanks for the help!

  2. #2
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    What all do you need? Everything besides the frame?
    "Got everything you need?"

  3. #3
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    Yep - the frame includes a Kashima-ed RP23- but I supposed buying a full suspension with the rear not included is probably somewhat rare. Spending 800 for the frame.

    Would need everything else (with the exception of tires- going to re purpose a set of high roller 2's)

  4. #4
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    Hmm, $1200 for everything makes it tight. Have you already bought the frame, or is this coming from Santa Cruz or LBS?

    Here's a good build for just about $1200 after tax and shipping:

    Rockshox Sektor RL Dual Position Coil 150mm - $380
    SRAM X-7 Build Kit w/ BB7 Discs and Crossride wheelset - $690 (check to see if this version of the Crossride has 15mm thru-axle, they make both)
    "Got everything you need?"

  5. #5
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    Another option since you say the Heckler is too small is to get a bigger Heckler. And right now you can nab a new frame + Float CTD from the Santa Cruz clearance sale for $550! And instead spend the rest of the cash on a super nice fork and wheelset?

    Santa Cruz Bicycles
    "Got everything you need?"

  6. #6
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    great suggestion - wasn't even aware of the clearance going on.
    Love the durability of my heckler- was really just in the market because of the size problem.
    Pulled the trigger on a large in clear/raw (favorite color they offer)
    I can bring over some components from my current ride, sell the medium frame for a few hundred, and bring in a new fork to accommodate the change to a tapered head-tube.

    Thanks again!

  7. #7
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    You don't even need a new fork assuming the travel is correct. What you need is a Cane Creek AngleSet headset.

  8. #8
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    Oh good point Colin -- I was mistaking the 2012 that I bought for the 2013 that switched to the tapered headtube. Believe my 2011 M and new 2012 L have the same 1 1/8 tube diameter. Only difference would be length- would i still need a product like the Cane Creek?

    Additionally- (and I know I'm getting way off the original post topic)- any resources out there for completely swapping the components? I've been checking through the forums here but if anyone knows a good resource for someone completing a 1st time build, would be much appreciated.

  9. #9
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    Oh, no, you won't. The benefit of the AngleSet is using a straight fork in a tapered head tube, and in being able to sharpen or slacking the steering angle.

    The only trouble you'll have swapping components is the usual: need a workstand, need to push out & press-in headset, might need a wrench for the cranks (pretty much all but SRAM), need a wrench for external BB cups (if used). The rest of it is very easy assuming your cables are long enough on the new frame. If not, add housing and cables.

    About the headset, I've seen ghettoed-up systems using a huge lag bolt and washers but haven't used them. A LBS installs headsets while you wait for $15 so I don't bother with that and damn sure am not buying a ~$250 bearing press.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoyBoy326 View Post
    Oh good point Colin -- I was mistaking the 2012 that I bought for the 2013 that switched to the tapered headtube. Believe my 2011 M and new 2012 L have the same 1 1/8 tube diameter. Only difference would be length- would i still need a product like the Cane Creek?

    Additionally- (and I know I'm getting way off the original post topic)- any resources out there for completely swapping the components? I've been checking through the forums here but if anyone knows a good resource for someone completing a 1st time build, would be much appreciated.

    As stated before, a bike stand is of tremendous help. However, you can make your own pretty cheap with a simple wall mounted bike rack for $10. If you want to do it 100% on your own, you'll need to buy tools. I really enjoyed learning to work on my bike, and it's actually saved me a lot of money, so buying tools makes sense. But you can always take your bike to the shop if a special tool is needed.

    Here's what you'll probably need special tools for.
    Bottom bracket - Probably an external bearing BB, $10 at PricePoint.
    Headset - You can either build your own from a carriage bolt,nuts and washers, or pay the LBS $10 to press the cups in for you.
    Torque wrench - not really necessary if you have worked on cars/bikes before, but you can usually find a decent one for $25-35 online.
    "Got everything you need?"

  11. #11
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    I've done a few of these part swaps and building up bikes, so here's a quick and dirty overview. Unless you have two stands, I'd strip the old bike of parts first. Take care to clean and lube everything and lay all the parts out neatly on a work surface. I've found that there are a few key ingredients for a relaxing and fun time while working on bikes (or anything else):

    1. Stool, chair, bucket - something to sit on. Being comfortable saves energy, lets you relax, and makes it easier to focus on the task at hand.
    2. Lots of old towels, or shop towels for cleaning parts, your hands, and the work area.
    3. MUSIC - I almost never listen to reggae, but for some reason it makes for a great sountrack while working on bikes.
    4. Laptop - Nothing beats having the internet at your fingertips if you have a problem/question
    5. Water - just like on a bike ride, your experience will deteriorate when you get dehydrated.

    Parts removal:
    1. Wheels - no special tools needed
    2. Brakes - pull brake calipers off the fork and rear of the frame
    3. Derailleurs - disconnect and discard cables and housing
    4. Stem / Bars
    5. Fork
    6. Crankset - may need a special crank removal tool depending on make
    7. Saddle and Seatpost


    Clean, inspect, and re-lube all parts. Replace derailleur cables and housing, and brake cable and housing if using mechanical brakes.

    Parts Installation on new bike:
    1. Install bottom bracket
    2. Install headset cups
    3. Install crankset
    4. Fork, stem, handlebars
    5. Install derailleurs
    6. Run new housing and cables (don't bother to tune it yet)
    7. Install wheels
    8. Install brakes
    9. Cut to length and install chain
    10. Tune derailleurs
    11. Trim cables
    12. Double check torque on all parts
    "Got everything you need?"

  12. #12
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    Bump... I just picked up a Blur LT from the SC sale so I'm starting to look for parts for my build.

    Which headset and crankset should I be looking for? I know nothing about the types or measurements- seems like there are way too many "standards" these days. I'd like to keep the headset under $35 if possible, and the crankset under $150 (maybe Race Face?).

  13. #13
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    It should be standard english threaded bottom bracket so you can use normal external bearing cranks.

    It's a tapered head tube. Should be 1 1/8" steerer tube with 1.5" crown race.


    However, my Blur is older than that, so before you buy anything you might check with SC and/or wait for a BLT owner to reply and confirm.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by smmokan View Post
    Bump... I just picked up a Blur LT from the SC sale so I'm starting to look for parts for my build.

    Which headset and crankset should I be looking for? I know nothing about the types or measurements- seems like there are way too many "standards" these days. I'd like to keep the headset under $35 if possible, and the crankset under $150 (maybe Race Face?).
    The headtube is a standard tapered, and stock they use a semi integrated upper and external cup lower. The top is 44mm ID and the bottom is 49mm. More info can be found here:

    Santa Cruz Bicycles BLURLT

    Keeping the headset under $35 for a tapered headset is going to be tough. Even the lower end Cane Creek 10 is $50, and I highly recommend against that model since there have been problems with the bearings on it. The Cane Creek 40 is much better and $65.

    As for the crankset, what configuration do you need? 9 speed, 10 speed? Single, double, triple?

    Right now you can find the SLX 10 speed on Jenson for $89 (no BB): Shimano SLX M660-10 Oe Crankset > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

    XT BB for $39: Shimano XT M770 Bottom Bracket > Components > Drivetrain > Bottom Brackets | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
    "Got everything you need?"

  15. #15
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    Thanks THB... I realize you responded in the other thread too, so I appreciate this info. I'm definitely going with the CC40 headset. I'll probably go with a Race Face crankset.

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