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  1. #1
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    Blur LT2 shock pressure?

    I am trying to diagnose a creak on my 2011 blur. In the process I want to figure out whether my shock my be over or under pressured.

    I weigh ~195 and my shock is set about 160. Anyone else about the same weight want to share their setting? The shock is an RP23 with kashima coating and boost valve.
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  2. #2
    Big Gulps, Alright!
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    I'm about 165 geared up and run 135psi. RP23 with boost valve, no kashima coat.

    I would pull apart all your pivots and make sure the axles and hardare are thoroughly greased. After checking easy stuff like headset, seatpost, etc.

  3. #3
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    Been through all of that. The interesting thing is that it is often the most noticeable when the shock is uncompressing (i.e. getting off the bike, going up over a rock.) The shock is about the last thing at this point.
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  4. #4
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    Austin bike,
    Are you running a King InSet 3? I recently found a weirdo creak coming off of mine. If the tolerance between the GripLock cap and the upper bearing/frame cup is too tight, they'll rub and creak when you turn your bar...the smaller the turn, the louder the creak. I solved this by taking their anti scratch plastic washer and placing it between the wedge lock and that outer cap. The interface of the two will cookie-cutter the plastic to the proper outer diameter, and give you that 1/2mm you'll need for the two to clear each other (actually, I stuck 2 in there for a full millimeter of clearance).
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  5. #5
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    I had bad creaks and one came from lack of grease in my upper linkage and the other was from a du bushing that needed to be replaced on the shock. i seem to wear these out quite often. i'm on my second set after about two months of riding.

    I am 175 RR and run my RP23(no kashima) at 150 psi.

    E

  6. #6
    007
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    Quote Originally Posted by gexas View Post
    I had bad creaks and one came from lack of grease in my upper linkage and the other was from a du bushing that needed to be replaced on the shock. i seem to wear these out quite often. i'm on my second set after about two months of riding.

    I am 175 RR and run my RP23(no kashima) at 150 psi.

    E
    Ditch the DU bushings and get Fox's new upgraded polymer hardware. It's a nice improvement and user-serviceable without any tools.
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  7. #7
    Big Gulps, Alright!
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    I had a mystery creak too and turned out to be the shift cable creaking in the housing stop.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Austin bike,
    Are you running a King InSet 3? I recently found a weirdo creak coming off of mine. If the tolerance between the GripLock cap and the upper bearing/frame cup is too tight, they'll rub and creak when you turn your bar...the smaller the turn, the louder the creak. I solved this by taking their anti scratch plastic washer and placing it between the wedge lock and that outer cap. The interface of the two will cookie-cutter the plastic to the proper outer diameter, and give you that 1/2mm you'll need for the two to clear each other (actually, I stuck 2 in there for a full millimeter of clearance).
    It is a cane creek headset. The creak is definitely coming from the middle of the bike. There is a click in the headset but I can live with that, I have had fox forks for almost 8 years and have had plenty of those over the years.


    Quote Originally Posted by gexas View Post
    I had bad creaks and one came from lack of grease in my upper linkage and the other was from a du bushing that needed to be replaced on the shock. i seem to wear these out quite often. i'm on my second set after about two months of riding.

    I am 175 RR and run my RP23(no kashima) at 150 psi.

    E
    DU bushings are gone now.

    Quote Originally Posted by OO7 View Post
    Ditch the DU bushings and get Fox's new upgraded polymer hardware. It's a nice improvement and user-serviceable without any tools.
    Already did that.

    The bike has been at the LBS twice in the past month, taken apart, regreased, and still have a creak. It is killing me.
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  9. #9
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    FYI, the creak is here:

    Creaking blur - YouTube
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  10. #10
    FloridaKeys Fishing Guide
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    Re-lube the seatpost and the seat clamp and seat rails. I had a creak too and this solved the problem for me. The other 'creak area' are the shock mounts and the lower DU bushing. YMMV
    Current ride(s) 2011 Santa Cruz Blur LT

  11. #11
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    I had a creak that turned out from the rear wheel. The aluminum frame is like an amplifier for noises. May be coming from a different place than where is sounds from.

  12. #12
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    Your frame or the pivot links could also have a crack in them. Some have broken the pivot bolt that connects the link to the seatstays on that bike. Remove that and check to see you have the (was it stainless?) most recent version. Also, the seatstays on those are well known to crack over time, there's some threads here on it and some of them happened relatively quickly.
    "It looks flexy"

  13. #13
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    This week will have a lot of riding and a lot of time for maintenance, so I can break things down and look at them again.
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