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  1. #1
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    5010 crank rubbing chainstay

    My 2015 5010 CC has recently developed an odd problem where the crank arm is rubbing the chain stay when fair bit of downforce is being applied on steep climbs.

    I thought at first the crank arm was bending, but on investigation it seems the frame is flexing towards the crank. Pressure down on the non-drive side is swinging the rear triangle towards the crank and then it rubs.

    Have checked for play in the linkages but nothing obvious. There is slight flex in the lower but nothing I wouldn't have expected and doesn't seem to be different to what it was before. It doesn't have obvious side play.

    Still, I'll strip it all down, clean, tighten and re-grease and see what happens. I had done my regular grease up of the lower link a few months before and no problems at the time.

    Just it's weird as it's only recently started doing this yet can't see why.

    Cranks are SRAM X0 carbon with the rubber boots on the end and it's the boot that rubs, but I've run these on this and two other bikes no problem for years.

    BB is a GXP and spacer on drive side. I did do the BB a little while back but was very careful that the same spacer arrangement was kept. Again it was fine after doing that.

  2. #2
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    have you made any changes to the bike? have you checked for cracks in the frame etc

  3. #3
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    Are there any spacers on the non drive side? What side is the crank rubbing on? Do you know the Q factor of the crankset?

  4. #4
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    My guess is that one or more of the linkage bearings have disintegrated. Or a broken axle. Would definitely not ride the bike before you've located the source of the problem!

  5. #5
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    No changes except new BB but that was some months back and it's been fine until last week. No spacer on the non-drive side, but it didn't have one before. Similar with my old Nomad I got from the same shop, they just put one on the drive side. I did before think that doesn't match SRAM's instructions but on putting one on the non-drive side it messed it up, so went back to just one on the drive side. A few others have said they find the same.

    There's a slim chance it actually had two on the drive side, but I was very careful to take note and 99.9% certain it just had one and nothing non-drive side.

    Fairly new linkage. Warranty replacement after the previous one did have disintegrated bearings, but that's another story involving wrong dust caps allowing overtightening and bearing destruction.

    No axle play and seems perfect front end. It's the rear that moves, but it's odd as it doesn't seem particularly significant and not a loose play feel. Hard to describe. Feeling it I'd consider it no issue, but recently it's causing it to rub on the crank arm.

    Anyway, as I said I'll have to pull it all apart and check it over. Just at the moment I can't understand what's going on.

  6. #6
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    If it is a SRAM GXP bottom bracket it gets 0 spacers on the Drive Side.....the 5010 has a 73mm BB shell.

    Did the rubber boots rub the frame before you took the lower link apart?
    Last edited by mtnbikej; 08-08-2017 at 09:33 AM.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by deadkenny View Post
    There's a slim chance it actually had two on the drive side, but I was very careful to take note and 99.9% certain it just had one and nothing non-drive side.
    That's odd that it just started recently. Is the crank the OEM one? If not, some are 156mm for a Q factor which will put them closer to the stays. Also, on GXP cranks, drive side spacers do nothing. Only non-drive side spacers will make a change. And on 73mm shells, no spacers should be used. If it's the left side that's rubbing, put the spacer on the other side and that can help. It won't solve the issue if something actually messed up though.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by BXCc View Post
    That's odd that it just started recently. Is the crank the OEM one? If not, some are 156mm for a Q factor which will put them closer to the stays. Also, on GXP cranks, drive side spacers do nothing. Only non-drive side spacers will make a change. And on 73mm shells, no spacers should be used. If it's the left side that's rubbing, put the spacer on the other side and that can help. It won't solve the issue if something actually messed up though.
    Checking GXP instructions, you're right about the 73 needing none, but thinking about it, that was what I noticed before with the Nomad as supplied, so I took the spacer off (not added one as I said above) but it wasn't right doing that. I can't remember what was wrong about it but I had to put the spacer back on.

    Anyway, both bikes from same shop have been supplied with one spacer on the drive side, nothing non-drive. Both 73mm shells. As I said, others have said they need the same on Santa Cruz. Although maybe it's more about reducing the gap between dust cap and crank (given issues with GXP caps coming loose, although I stick rubber o-rings in the gap to keep them in place, though not on this bike so far).

    Q factor - don't know. Likewise crank. Came with the bike (actually, think it's an XO1 crank. Was a complete XO1 groupset).

    Right side that's rubbing, drive side. It's as pressure is put down on the non drive side, the rear triangle is flexing towards the drive side crank as it pulls up and then rubs. The harder I push down on the left the more it rubs on the right.

  9. #9
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    The SC bikes that are in the garage are both running GXP cranks with zero spacers with zero issues. Odd that something wouldn't work correctly. You're right about just closing the gap to the dust cap. I have put a spacer on the non drive side to help with chain line on a previous SC bike tough.

    Something sounds messed up in the linkages or you have a rear triangle issue. Maybe a broken Pivot bolt? Definitely keep us posted on what you find.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BXCc View Post
    The SC bikes that are in the garage are both running GXP cranks with zero spacers with zero issues. Odd that something wouldn't work correctly. You're right about just closing the gap to the dust cap. I have put a spacer on the non drive side to help with chain line on a previous SC bike tough.

    Something sounds messed up in the linkages or you have a rear triangle issue. Maybe a broken Pivot bolt? Definitely keep us posted on what you find.
    Trust me if he had a broken pivot bolt he'd know right away, broke mine last year...that was a long walk out of the Forrest. And a long two weeks without my bike (Santa Cruz ended up covering the rear triangle when the broken bolt wouldn't come out). Bearings were disintegrated as well.

  11. #11
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    Ya that's what I would expect to happen but something definitely sounds off. Probably needs to pull it all apart and inspect everything.

  12. #12
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    Yeah, that's the plan. Just haven't got round to it. Cleaned the bike for a change though in preparation

    Lower link would be my bet at the moment.

  13. #13
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    Well that doesn't look too good does it?

    5010 crank rubbing chainstay-wp_20170810_17_36_16_pro.jpg

  14. #14
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    Not good at all. But the plus side is that you found the problem and it's a relatively easy fix.

  15. #15
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    Fortunately, bearings are free.

    The down side is removing these angular contact bearings intact and you will most likely separate the inner race from the outer. You'll need an extractor that fits the inside of that out outer race to extract it. The images below are of an upper link, but the race extraction and the bearings are the same.

    The outer race remaining in the link after the inner race pulled out. Outer race bearing extractor engaged and ready to pull out.

    5010 crank rubbing chainstay-20170715_193324.jpg 5010 crank rubbing chainstay-20170715_195407.jpg

    5010 crank rubbing chainstay-20170715_193951.jpg 5010 crank rubbing chainstay-20170715_194437.jpg
    Last edited by Cleared2land; 08-10-2017 at 02:24 PM.
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by deadkenny View Post
    Well that doesn't look too good does it?
    I don't see a problem. Maybe just add more mud to make the bearings roll smooth again.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbmaddux View Post
    I don't see a problem. Maybe just add more mud to make the bearings roll smooth again.
    That's the way I've been treating it so far. More muck, ride the hell out of it, repeat

    As for doing the bearings, I've had them done on my old Nomad a few times by LBS. Bearings are free, but then cost of doing them, which it seems is hassle even for them. The 5010 had a previous set disintegrate but were crushed for another reason and got a warranty replacement lower link instead. It's lasted about a year.

    I may just get a new lower link as the cost is a lot cheaper on the 5010 than the carbon ones on the Nomad Mk2, and makes it about the same cost as paying the LBS to do the work. Then get the free bearings for these and fix up the old link at my leisure to keep as spare to swap.

    Upper link isn't so bad. They could do with doing. I might do that myself. Just need to invest in the bearing pullers.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by deadkenny View Post
    The 5010 had a previous set disintegrate but were crushed for another reason and got a warranty replacement lower link instead. It's lasted about a year.
    I'm always interested when folks talk of pre-mature bearing replacement, what their service and maintenance was was on those bearings. How about you?
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  19. #19
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    Don't know about pre-mature. SC bearings seem to need doing each year, hence the lifetime warranty I guess.

    I grease them up every now and again though. More typically when I feel there is a bit of play in the link, rather than on a regular schedule.

    Anyway easy/lazy solution for the moment is just a new lower link, though I need axle also. I need to invest in extractors, but always find them expensive especially if many sizes are needed (my old Nomad needs two sizes, 5010 I guess is one size, but I'll need another size to get the stuck race out also I assume).

  20. #20
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    You refer to SC bearings as if they make them. They're Enduro MAX pivot bearings and I have seen them go well over 10,000 miles on one of my 2012 SC. My current set just got replaced at 5,500 miles simply because they were available. Maintain them and they will do you well.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    I'm always interested when folks talk of pre-mature bearing replacement, what their service and maintenance was was on those bearings. How about you?
    Just did a full bearing swap after my local bike shop noticed some notch/clicky feeling from the upper link when they picked it up. Bearings were about 9 months old. They said the lowers looked ok but I had them replaced anyway.

    I don't do a thing to the upper bearings. Lowers get greased before every ride.

    EDIT - about 500mi

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    You refer to SC bearings as if they make them.
    Not what I meant. I know full well they are Enduro MAX bearings. I just said SC bearings meaning the bearings SC use.

    Bear in mind I ride in the UK, in mud, a lot (I know that's a sin to Americans, but we have no choice. Besides, it's loads of fun ).

    They are maintained.

    Lowers get greased before every ride
    but not to that extent!

  23. #23
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    Riding in wet or muddy conditions is an even better reason to increase your bearing service intervals. Given no maintenance, it's understandable for the failure rate.

    Wet conditions make the good use of the zirk fittings to keep a layer of grease between the bearing and the SC aluminum washer seals.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Given no maintenance, it's understandable for the failure rate.
    They are maintained. Just not after every ride.

    In fact they were greased a month or so before this happened. I don't pull the link each time though, just grease via the ports.

    This one happened after months of dry-ish weather, but have been riding some big rocky places fairly aggressively. Was surprised I didn't break something more expensive given the rock strikes and smashing wheels through rock gardens

    Anyway, not complaining. Don't mind replacing them annually. Santa Cruz provide lifetime warranty on bearings for the very reason that they're a common replacement.

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