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Spearfish 1x setups ?

7K views 37 replies 14 participants last post by  vmaxx4 
#1 ·
Anybody put a 1x setup on a spearfish? What did you use and how did it work?
 
#2 ·
I run a 1x9 using an xt crank (32t), xtr cassette (11-34), and a sram attack grip shift. I have a truvativ bash guard as well as a n-gear jump stop chain guide. I'd occasionally drop my chain but i finally found the sweet spot for the chain guide, so far so good. I'll eventually upgrade to a ss specific ring with a higher tooth profile as well as an mrp guide to help boost my confidence when riding rockier terrain.
 
#7 ·
I'm heading overseas for the next three months but upon my return, a Spearfish with XX1 is going to be my project... I imagine it will be INSANE :)

Someone else do it in the meantime so I can live vicariously...
Nah...I'll live vicariously through your Japan trip...and through your XX1.

I thought I was the only Spearfish XX1 nutjob.
 
#5 ·
Ran mine with a 32-bash in front, with another bash on the inside. Worked great, but too hard to climb for me here in CT. Now using a 28 tooth in front with the same 11-34 and its perfect. I use the entire cassette now on my rides. I took a link or 2 out and it never comes off the ring either.
 
#9 ·
My Spearfish is 2x10, but if I was going to go 1x, I would probably use a MRP bling ring and either a MRP 1x or Paul's chain keeper. (I am running XO cranks, so the direct mount bling ring is appealing.)

I am running a similar setup on my hard tail and it seems to work great.
 
#11 ·
Here's mine! I'm using a Sram S1000 crank? with a Race Face 32t front ring, a Sram 11-36 PG1070 10 speed cassette, and a X9 short cage. Plenty of gear for the trails in and around Houston/Austin. I never rode the bike in 2x form so I can's comment on a performance change. I can however say that I saved a good bit of weight and cut back on the chance of a drivetrain mechanical.:thumbsup:

Oops... Forgot to mention my chain watcher. Never lost a chain with my old MRP guide, but I did lose the chain off of the bottom while ratcheting in a tech section.

 
#21 ·
I had my Spearfish 1 set up 1 x 9 (36 front/11-34 rear) with great success. I had a light weight bash guard on the outside of the of the chainring and homemade chainguide (a road triple front der. with the outer cage cut off, very clean and light) on the inside. Had to go 2 x 10 for several races with longer, steeper climbs. XX 1 is in my future as soon as I can mount an XX 1 front chainring onto a Rotor or XTR crankset.
 
#26 ·
I know this thread is a bit old, but I'm hoping some one who has already gone to the trouble of converting to a SF to a 1x set up can help me out with my chain guide selection. What guides has any one tried, and what works. The last time I set a bike up with a 1x setup it took several attempts to find a guide that would fit right, eventually I ended up with a BB mount MRP 1x (a great solution that won't work on the Fish). Has any one tried a Paul's keeper (other than the one that wasn't machined properly) with any success? I'm really just trying to avoid the $100 high mount solutions, but if I have to I will. Thanks for the help guys.
 
#27 ·
I used an MRP seatstay mounted keeper, and milled a poly spacer to move the keeper part over a bit. It worked perfectly.

That said, I'm now running a Type 2 Rear Derailleur, and took the keeper off. I have had 0 problems with chain retention. If it was me, I'd skip the retention device and do a rear derailleur with the clutch mechanism (SRAM Type 2, or Shimano _______). I'm running a regular MRP bling ring, so the derailleur is my only retention device. It works awesome.
 
#28 ·
Lawfarm, thanks for the response. The X9 type 2 is definitely an option, especially if the cost of the chain guide is the same as the new rear D. Just a quick question, as I know very little about the new clutch derailleurs, will my OE shifter work with the new design? If you have a moment, and it's simple enough to explain, can you explain how the clutch mechanism works. Thanks again.
 
#29 ·
1. Yes, cost is pretty comparable, and the X9 Type 2 should work well for you.

2. The cable pull/actuation ratio is the same as the previous generation of X9, so it should work with your OEM shifters.

3. Essentially, it employes a spring-driven clutch to maintain rearward tension on the derailleur, which helps eliminate chain slap. By maintaining tension on the chain, it also helps ensure that the chain stays on the chainring, helping to eliminate dropped chains. As an added 'neat' feature, the SRAM version has a little button you can use to lock the derailleur forward, eliminating chain tension, so you can drop or reinstall the wheel easily.

I did find, once I went 2x10, that I wanted gripshift so I could drop the whole cassette faster (for example, when transitioning from a downhill to an uphill). Your mileage may vary.

This was my original conversion, with a stock OEM shifter and no chain-retention device. Because I'm anal-retentive, I then added a chain retention device. It was unnecessary, and has since been removed.

Good luck!
 
#30 ·
Lawfarm, thanks again for the info. One last question for you, are you running a short or medium cage rear derailleur? If I understand things correctly, I can run the short cage if I intend to run the bike as a 1x, but if I ever want to go back to a 2x set up I would need to run the mid-cage (or put the OE derailleur back on). The advantage of the short cage being - less chain= less chain motion (?). Again, any help is greatly appreciated.
 
#32 ·
I can say the Pauls Keeper is poorly designed, mine came in machined incorrectly and marred up the frame. The pinch bolt cut into the paint and would ride up and down the seat tube when tightened or loosened.

My MRP 1x seat tube mount is excellent, I have it set up with BB30 X9 cranks and a 32t Bling Ring. I also run a 36t cassette and a short cage X9 (non type 2). It's been flawless for many many miles!
 
#35 ·
Have you looked into the Wolf Chain rings? I just ordered mine yesterday and other locals have had great success with them. No chain guide needed. Currently I am running an e-13 38t with the origin 8 guide. It hasn't given me any problems, but would love to lose the extra little weight which is why I went with the wolf ring.
 
#36 ·
I have been running Wolf Tooth Component chainring on my Spearfish 1 w/XX1 for 3+ months. I have it on an XTR 985 Race crankset and it has performed perfectly. 4 weeks of riding throughout Colorado (including the Crested Butte Enduro) and Moab with not one dropped chain.

No doubt the other "wide/narrow" chainrings work too, but the fact that they have gone through the effort to fit cranksets other then 104/4 bolt pattern makes Wolf Tooth Components stand out from the crowd.
 
#37 ·
Thanks to everyone for the help and info. I bought a new HBC 32 tooth spiderless chainring off e-bay (what a lucky find) and a short cage X9 type 2 rear derailure. I ordered an MRP 1x guide too, just in case (also a new/used part off e-bay) but it has yet to show up. Put the ring and rear D on yesterday afternoon and took the bike out for a test ride. Everything works great, I hit some pretty rough high speed down hill sections and the chain stayed silent and in place - love it! I can't see any need for the guide.
 
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