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  1. #151
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    I just paid for my Casseroll Single tonight, and should be able to pick it up tomorrow after it gets put together. Sold a Lemond Poprad last week, and decided that I'd have this for winter training indoors, and for days when I just need to do something different. It'll be a nice addition to my Pistola, La Cruz, and El Mariachi 29'r. I suppose they'll discontinue it next year...

  2. #152
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    The bike will change for sure: Salsa is selling down their existing stock this year - so they said on another thread. After not being sure how much I would ride mine, I've been taking it out for long rides in the country - those wheels are perfect for the broken pavement - dirt - gravel farm roads where I like to ride. Put on a lower gear (65) and I can take this thing almost anywhere. When I want to hit the steeper hills I use my road or cross bike.

  3. #153
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    Yeah...I'm a spinner, so I'm a little concerned about the stock gearing, but I'll give it a shot. For the price I got it for, I can afford to make some tweaks. I may even make it a 1 x 10 at some point, but the whole point was to have something for the trainer in the winter...but with benefits!

  4. #154
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    I rode a century on my Casseroll this past Saturday. Most comfortable and relaxed I have ever felt on a century ride. Definitely a "Ride and Smile" experience.
    http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...1#post10690101





    Last edited by BluesDawg; 04-19-2010 at 06:11 PM.
    There's only two things in life (but I forget what they are). - John Hiatt

  5. #155
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    New Rider Wanting to Buy

    Hello all. Some good deals on this bike right now and I think I need to get me one. This, however, would be my first road bike and I am unsure which size to go with (I understand that 3cm should be added to the stated size of the frame. I am 5'10" and wondering if a 51cm or 53cm size bike would work for me. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Thanks.
    On-One ScandAl 29er
    "...Obviously you're not a golfer"

  6. #156
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    Im about 5-10/11 ad went with a 53, but I usually ride a 56/57 roadie.

  7. #157
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    I would think a 53, but if you have relatively long legs and a short torso and arms, the 51 may be better. If you can't find a Casseroll to test ride, maybe you can try some other road bikes to get an idea of the size that fits you best.
    There's only two things in life (but I forget what they are). - John Hiatt

  8. #158
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    For compact frames like Salsas, the top tube is the more critical dimension. A 53 Casseroll has a 56 TT and a 51 Casseroll has a 54.5 TT so you should test ride bikes at your LBS that have those dimensions. If your not buying the Casseroll from them you should pay for a fitting, if they do that.

  9. #159
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    Rode my Casseroll from London to Amsterdam in Feb, so thought I'd post a couple of Casseroll light touring pics:


    (yes thats snow on the ground. It was chuffin cold!)


    on the ferry...


    On the North Sea Cycle route....


  10. #160
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    Very cool - is that a Nexus hub? Didn't know you can get it with bar-end control. I would love to build up my SS Casseroll with an internal hub like that.

    Edit: nevermind, answered my own question. Jtek shifter w/ Nexus. Sheldon Brown had the answer, as usual.
    Last edited by mudrock; 05-02-2010 at 08:04 PM.

  11. #161
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    ... and another one ... This one is built as an all weather training road bike. Sometimes I miss the original paint job but IMO the all black scheme makes a stronger impact.
    Wheels are build with Stans ZTR355 29er rims and Schwalbe Kojak 700x35 tyres. I run them tubeless with just a yellow strip, at max 60PSI .

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/N-gFXpZDxPwWCXBE9r44og?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_XslFLyDZaH8/S_qoBHLMLZI/AAAAAAAACWE/B-YHNeST4pc/s800/DSC_0104.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Barteos1/SALSACASSEROLL?feat=embedwebsite">SALSA CASSEROLL</a></td></tr></table>

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/ppB8QPpcKL30TwrDqbXW0Q?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_XslFLyDZaH8/S_qoGEqFfEI/AAAAAAAACWQ/UHjwTv6TVuc/s800/DSC_0114.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Barteos1/SALSACASSEROLL?feat=embedwebsite">SALSA CASSEROLL</a></td></tr></table>

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/WQ8N8wTintEe2CU1hJZHRg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_XslFLyDZaH8/S_qoIgZFLMI/AAAAAAAACWc/UYfS1lOyHsU/s800/DSC_0106.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Barteos1/SALSACASSEROLL?feat=embedwebsite">SALSA CASSEROLL</a></td></tr></table>

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/fTS_F-niBIQ7RPGQCfP8Zw?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_XslFLyDZaH8/S_qoJtcEoSI/AAAAAAAACWk/Ah25x-6t2ec/s800/DSC_0120.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Barteos1/SALSACASSEROLL?feat=embedwebsite">SALSA CASSEROLL</a></td></tr></table>

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/O33ARO97eJaAv1-YEkLSaA?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_XslFLyDZaH8/S_qoL8K6ouI/AAAAAAAACWw/sZ1r4UNuwzQ/s800/DSC_0144.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Barteos1/SALSACASSEROLL?feat=embedwebsite">SALSA CASSEROLL</a></td></tr></table>
    www.bartthebikeman.wordpress.com
    fast 26" road bike, shaven Racing Ralphs as road tyres, homemade "Paul thumbies"...

  12. #162
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    Why the IF decal?
    There's only two things in life (but I forget what they are). - John Hiatt

  13. #163
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    I see you don't like decals, even covering up the crank with black tape and using black marker on the tires! I like color myself. Love your tubeless conversion, I might try the same with the Contis that came OEM with my Cass SS. At 60psi I'll bet it's a nice cushy ride on gravel.

  14. #164
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    The ride quality on Kojaks is fantastic but I'm toying with an idea of trying 28mm wire Gatorskins at 80PSI. I realize it's generally a AREA but there's a guy somewhere running succsessfuly Armadilos at that pressure... In Stans rims I trust.

    Yeah I generally don't like branding. It's just too obvious and with lots of new riders with fancy bikes and no idea coming to sport (UK), I feel like I need to make a (under)statement.

    Actually you've just given me a brilliant idea. My bike stickers could spell some generic component names like rim, cranks, tyre... instead of brand names. Sort of "It's not about the bike." message

    The IF sticker is perhaps a bit naff but it was the only interesting one in a small size
    I came across on Ebay...
    www.bartthebikeman.wordpress.com
    fast 26" road bike, shaven Racing Ralphs as road tyres, homemade "Paul thumbies"...

  15. #165
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    I like the stealth look, but the IF sticker seems almost deceptive.
    There's only two things in life (but I forget what they are). - John Hiatt

  16. #166
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    Still not sure what to do with the stem
    I can either powder coat it like the frame or... put a matching 3T seatpost on.
    Any input appreciated
    Last edited by Barteos; 05-25-2010 at 08:10 AM.
    www.bartthebikeman.wordpress.com
    fast 26" road bike, shaven Racing Ralphs as road tyres, homemade "Paul thumbies"...

  17. #167
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    Rebuilt the wheels with silver open pro's and double-butted spokes, with a 18t cog on the flip side. Vittoria rubino pro tires (700x28) round out the spinny bits, and a Max Flite gel flow saddle to keep my hindquarters happy. I also have a set of yellow anodized Soma track pedals and 4-gate clips w/double straps for commuter duties. Rides like a dream.

  18. #168
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    Just got myself a 57cm Casseroll triple on clearance from the LBS for $750; unfortunately, it had the recalled color-matched stem so I am waiting on a replacement before I can tune it up and ride

    Couldn't pass up such a good deal even though I had to sell my beloved Bianchi San Jose to help finance it. I'm looking forward to doing longer and more challenging rides now that I have 29 more gears to work with.

    The Casseroll looks to be everything I've ever wanted in a roadie and I can't wait to put in some serious miles. I'll post pics when I get it up and running. The suspense is killing me!

  19. #169
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    Short vid of my newish Casseroll SS

    <object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/AwZv8_-9KK0?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US&amp;rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/AwZv8_-9KK0?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US&amp;rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>

  20. #170
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    Great lookin' bikes everybody! I never get tired of seeing the many Cassaroll pics.
    For those of you who aren't using any cable stops or down tube shifters have you maybe considered finding some pre-drilled dice? I found some black dice with white spots at a BMX specialty shop that were intended as Schrader valve covers then I drilled them out a little bigger and then epoxied them to the shifter bosses. For my girl's pinkish single speed I used white dice and spray painted them a similar pink and then I used testors enamel for the dice dimples. Just a sayin'.

  21. #171
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    I just got a Casseroll. What fender width will these fit? I will probably get them from VO.
    MUD


    My weiner is 10.5".....Oh wait...I'm holding this ruler backward.

  22. #172
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    SS to geared conversion

    I got my wife a SS Casseroll and eventually I plan to convert it to a geared bike. It looks as though I can add an inner chainring to the stock crank but do I need to replace the outer big ring? The teeth do not look ramped as they do on my other cranksets. I am planning on running some alt bars like Velo Orange Milan or Tourist with MTB style levers and grip shifters. I guess I'll have to build or buy a new rear wheel when the time comes. There are a lot of little parts I am aware I'll need to buy (downtube barrel adjustors, BB cable guide, etc). I have the shifters, derailleurs, and cassette although I considered going IGH for a time (cost prohibitive). Any tips from those who have made the conversion?

  23. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henrythewound
    I got my wife a SS Casseroll and eventually I plan to convert it to a geared bike. It looks as though I can add an inner chainring to the stock crank but do I need to replace the outer big ring? The teeth do not look ramped as they do on my other cranksets. I am planning on running some alt bars like Velo Orange Milan or Tourist with MTB style levers and grip shifters. I guess I'll have to build or buy a new rear wheel when the time comes. There are a lot of little parts I am aware I'll need to buy (downtube barrel adjustors, BB cable guide, etc). I have the shifters, derailleurs, and cassette although I considered going IGH for a time (cost prohibitive). Any tips from those who have made the conversion?
    Its straight forward. I bought a set of wheels and a Sram Apex group for mine already. All you need are then the adjusters and BB cable guide. It will be a piece of cake. I actually bought another Casseroll while I had the chance so I could have both a SS and a geared bike.
    MUD


    My weiner is 10.5".....Oh wait...I'm holding this ruler backward.

  24. #174
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    UPS brought me a single complete today. Got it for under $500 shipped. Plan to re-build it geared with the ultegra group from my old bike (Trek y-foil), and sell off most of the included parts.

    Wow, this frame is really something to look at! I LOVE the color. The red/purple part is more red than I was expecting, and the Gulden's Mustard is very cool, IMO. My wife, who is normally not that exited about bikes, was impressed.

    Now I leave for a week and have to wait until I am back to play with it. Oh, the humanity!
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  25. #175
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    Has the price of the new 2011 Complete been posted anywhere yet?

  26. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTFargo
    Has the price of the new 2011 Complete been posted anywhere yet?
    I searched everywhere and couldn't find it. The friendly guys at Salsa replied to my request with $1199 which seems pretty reasonable. I'm gettin' one for sure.

  27. #177
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    Build finished (mostly).

    Finished building up the frame. The only parts I ended up using from the SS complete kit were the brake calipers (though I replaced the pads), seat clamp, and headset. Everything else was from my old bike (Trek Y-foil). The caliper arm opposite the cable attachment on both calipers was out of alignment, and I had to use a crescent wrench to tweak them straight.

    I have the 23c tires that were on the old bike so I can get a more accurate comparison of the frames (I will eventually order some Marathon Supremes in 32c). A quick spin around the neighborhood with the same wheelset, tires, CF bar and tire pressure is enough to know this is NOT as smooth as the Y-Foil was, but that is asking a lot. It is also not as smooth as my wife's CF bike with similar tires and pressure. Not a big deal as I was not expecting it to be. I plan to run fatter tires at lower psi then either of those other bikes would allow, and I think that will outweigh the differences in the frame/fork smoothness. It does feel a little more springy and lively, but I will need some more time on it to see how that plays out.

    I've left the steerer a bit long until I have everything dialed in. The second stem is for mounting a handlebar bag in a low position.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Salsa Casseroll thread-casseroll-front-small.jpg  

    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  28. #178
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    A bit of an update on the SS-geared conversion I am attempting. I thought I was just going to be able to add a smaller chainring to the stock Sugino crankset but the outer ring is not ramped and pinned. Rather than buy another outer ring I was thinking of just buying a new (affordable) double crankset. If I go that route I run into issues with the bottom bracket. Do I need to get a new bottom bracket as well to match a new crank? If I buy a square taper compatible crankset will the spacing work for running a double up front? The triple casseroll from salsa comes with an external Tiagra BB. If I just want a double will the stock Sugino BB work or do I need to rethink everything?

  29. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henrythewound
    A bit of an update on the SS-geared conversion I am attempting. I thought I was just going to be able to add a smaller chainring to the stock Sugino crankset but the outer ring is not ramped and pinned. Rather than buy another outer ring I was thinking of just buying a new (affordable) double crankset. If I go that route I run into issues with the bottom bracket. Do I need to get a new bottom bracket as well to match a new crank? If I buy a square taper compatible crankset will the spacing work for running a double up front? The triple casseroll from salsa comes with an external Tiagra BB. If I just want a double will the stock Sugino BB work or do I need to rethink everything?
    The bb it comes with is fairly short so that the OUTER ring is in the optimum (45mm chainline) position. If you want to run that crank as a double, you need the longer bb.

    However, before you get a new bb and rings to make this work as a double, keep in mind that this is a standard double crankset, not a compact double. If this is what you want that is fine, but I think most people would prefer a compact double for this bike.

    If you try to get another square taper double crank, I doubt you will find one that uses a 103mm length bb. That is really short. So you would still likely need a new bb.

    I would just plan to get a new crankset and bb. It opens a lot more options to you in terms of ring size and bb style.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  30. #180
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    Thanks for the detailed info, I appreciate the insight. There are tons of NOS double cranks on ebay, I'll look into one of those most likely. Seems cheaper in the long run and I'll try to unload the stock BB and crank to offset the cost.

  31. #181
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    I have this bike in a SS. I put 4000 miles on it last year. I picked up this bike shown below over Christmas off this website. Loving it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Salsa Casseroll thread-december_1781%5B1%5D.jpg  

    Last edited by philoanna; 03-10-2011 at 11:45 AM.

  32. #182
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    Finally got the stem and bar setup dialed in. I ditched the idea of the bar bag or front rack because the cables from the shifters make then a little awkward to get in and out of. I might replace the rear rack at some point. I would like to find one that matches the silver look of the components, but they are pretty expensive.

    Anyway, I am absolutely LOVING this bike! I am now doing rides as long as anything in the past and feeling much less worn out (back, hands, neck) than on my old road bike with a more competitive setup and skinny-ass tires. I am just a tad slower on this, but I am not racing and I can go farther than before and enjoy it a lot more.

    The tires are Jack Browns 33.3c, Green Label. They are incredibly fast and smooooooth. I tried the stock tires (Conti Contacts) and thought they were actually pretty good for mixed paved/unpaved used. Very quiet and smooth rolling, but kinda slow. I got a set of Schwalbe Marathon Supremes in 35c, due to some raving reviews on-line and from the LBS and was pretty unhappy with the performance. Seemed no faster than the Contacts (despite being a lot lighter), and felt harsh and noisy. The Jack Browns are noticeably faster than either other tire, and at least as smooth as the Contacts. They are more of a paved road tire than paved/unpaved, but the volume does make dirt roads perfectly manageable and smooth. I certainly do not avoid them. The only downside to the Green Labels is that they are pretty thin and not particularly flat resistant. I've gone about 400 or so mikes and got one flat. That is as many as the previous several thousand miles on the Gatorskins on my old bike, though I do ride this over surfaces I would not have on the 23c Gatorskins. If I run into flat problems, I might try the Blue Labels.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Salsa Casseroll thread-casseroll_3-10a_small.jpg  

    Last edited by kapusta; 03-10-2011 at 12:54 PM.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  33. #183
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    Bump! Let's get this guy going again folks who! Here's your oppurtunity to post those tasty fresh updated Casserolls.

  34. #184
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    Have any of you taken a single Casseroll and made it a 1x9? I know I would need a different version of the standard rear wheel. If so what did you use and why? I like my bike as a single sometimes. I would like to try it the other way.

  35. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by commutenow View Post
    Have any of you taken a single Casseroll and made it a 1x9? I know I would need a different version of the standard rear wheel. If so what did you use and why? I like my bike as a single sometimes. I would like to try it the other way.
    I made mine a 3x9.

    All you need is any rear 700c wheel with a 8-9-10 speed hub. I use an old ultegra road wheelset. The wheels on the stock Cass SS are way heavier and stouter than they need to be, IMO.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  36. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by commutenow View Post
    Have any of you taken a single Casseroll and made it a 1x9? I know I would need a different version of the standard rear wheel. If so what did you use and why? I like my bike as a single sometimes. I would like to try it the other way.
    Quite a few people have. As soon as I purchased my bike I rebuilt it as a 1x10 using Rival. Basically kept the frameset/crank/brakes/seatpost and replaced the rest. That was 3-4 years ago now.

    Did it that way because i wanted the mustard color.

  37. #187
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    Which brand of rack works best for the rear to bypass the brake cable adjuster?

  38. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by commutenow View Post
    Which brand of rack works best for the rear to bypass the brake cable adjuster?
    On mine (size 47cm) the attachment points on the seat stays near the brake bridge are pretty much useless due to the non-drive side being directly blocked by the brake cable and adjuster. Instead, I just used a single rack stabilizer attached to the brake bolt. This rack is a Topeak Explorer, but any rack with some way to attack this kind of stabilizer would work.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Salsa Casseroll thread-rack-stay.jpg  

    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  39. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by commutenow View Post
    Which brand of rack works best for the rear to bypass the brake cable adjuster?
    On my 55cm Casseroll SS, I use an Axiom rack with curved brackets. I used four knurled nuts from presta valve tubes as spacers to move the left side bracket out beyond the brake cable.

    There's only two things in life (but I forget what they are). - John Hiatt

  40. #190
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    Thanks for some great suggestions about racks.

  41. #191
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    I took a picture, but keep forgetting to upload it.

    I used a long bolt, with one nut & lock washer to lock tension against the frame and a second nut & washer to lock tension against the rack stay. Clearance is tight with the tubus cosmo (straight stays), but it has worked and stayed tight for a couple years. I've moved it roughly the same amount as the picture with the stem nuts. Maybe a little less.

    It hadn't occurred to me that size would affect things so much, but it's clear from some of these pictures that the smaller frames would present more of a challenge. Mine is the largest size.

  42. #192
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    Here's some photos of my wife's commuter setup:

    Running a Racktime rack. All I did was slightly bend the non-drive seat stay arm:





    And the finished product. FYI, It's a smaller frame (49 cm):


  43. #193
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    Have any of you used a Pass and Stowe porter front rack on your casseroles?

  44. #194
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    Took a ride out to the beach today - perfect time to take a pic of my our Casserolls (hers and mine, respectively):



    Just added 35c T-Servs to hers, and yes, they fit with plenty of room.

  45. #195
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    I know this is an older thread, but I need some Cass specific input from riders, hopefully of smaller frames. I just bought a 51 2011 Cass from my LBS. It rides super awesome and I love it except for one thing, the awful toe overlap the small frame combined with my size 10 lady feet.
    I have a always dealt with "mild grazing" of my toes on most of my bikes because I am a short enigma combination of a petite female with clown feet. But the Cass takes it to a whole other level and I don't just graze, I can actually stop my tire with my forefoot. At speed, obviously I lean more than wheel turn so thus far, I haven't offed myself going fast but I did a grocery errand run last night and there was some snowy patches that required slow turning and weaving, this is where it got hairy a few times.
    Is this just something I will subconsciously get used to and compensate for? I didn't test a ton of models before I bought the Cass last Monday and my old road bike had 650s on it and had a more rearward BB than the Cass does. I had toe graze on occasion but just barely.
    The toe thing is just so extremely new to me with it being so pronounced. Advice?

  46. #196
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    a petite female with clown feet
    Sexy

    On a serious note, I don't see that there is much that can be done without compromising other aspects of your bike fit. The only thing that I can think of that would have a direct impact on that is cleat position and/or shoe selection. Moving the cleats forward would help a bit but then you may not have your foot in a comfortable position. Of all my riding shoes there is a huge difference between Sidis and Keens, my Keens are huge an hit just about everything whereas my Sidis are like ballerina shoes.

    If none of those work, then maybe chinese foot binding.

  47. #197
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    Due to odd sizing requirements, I'm on a 47 cm cass with size 9 men's feet. There is a lot of toe overlap. On typical low speed turns I've just trained myself to keep the inside foot forward, thus out of the way of the wheel. It has really been a non issue...... until the other day when I was riding on some mild singletrack. On a slower, technical (for a road bike) climb, where I was turning sharply while pedaling, I was hitting my toe on the tire a lot. Of course, I seldom ever ride singletrack with this bike, so It's not a big deal.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  48. #198
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    Well, I rode it for a 17 miler this evening, same paved city winding trail, less snow and ice, it was also still light out and I could go faster than my errand run a few days ago. I had one time of a toe graze with my dominate forward foot when this teenage skateboarder couldn't decide what side of the trail he wanted to be on(hmmm....large beats by dre headphones can't help the cause any). So once he again drifted off to my left, I accelerated and passed him but my toe grazed a bit when I made the move initially. Not bad, but there. That was the only time I had toe overlap though. The rest of the ride, I found myself making the correct foot adjustment prior to turning, kindof like you end up doing with bumps or obstacles. It will take time but I am sure after a while, it will become second nature.
    With the shoes I will normally use(Converse All Stars), I have about 1.5" toe overlap in a wheel turn on my 51cm frame. It doesn't helps that I stuck some Rock n Road 42s on it either. I do plan on riding light trail with it, but mainly it is my town bike. I have a Pusgley that I ride off road mainly.
    This is only my second road bike ever though, so that was why I asked. My Qunitana Roo with 650s never had overlap issues and my Pugs just clears my toes also. The Cass rides great otherwise.

  49. #199
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    Don't think I posted my bike here yet.

    Her name is Lisa.

    The Salsa Casseroll thread-555064_10152640202460246_1499004208_n.jpg

    The Salsa Casseroll thread-537632_10152640205365246_1718161618_n.jpg

    Added a Brooks saddle and a higher stem.

    Looking for what to add next! Thinking a higher handlebar, like the Seven Tiberius?

  50. #200
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    My Casseroll commuter

    The Salsa Casseroll thread-salsacasseroll2.jpg

    Nitto RB-002 bars. Swapped in a Vaya fork to get the front disc brake, an Avid BB7 road. 1x10 setup, 45T Alfine crank in the front, 11-36T XT cog with Ultegra derailleur in the rear. At 60rpm that gives me a speed range of 5 to 21 mph. According to Shimano, Ultegra can only handle up to a 28 tooth in the cog, but my mechanic figured it would work with a 36T and it does!

    XT hubs and 29'er wheels - totally overbuilt but I gave the mechanic latitude on those parts and that's what he elected to go with. If I were to do it again I'd go with lighter weight road wheels and hubs. SKS Longboard fenders, Wald folding baskets, Dura Ace Triathlon bar end shifter on the right, Cane Creek 200 brake lever on the left. Specialized Nimbus 700x35c tires.

    Not gonna win any races but is an ultra reliable commuter.

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