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  1. #1
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    New Horsethief love!

    Just got my 2012 Horsethief on closeout from Universal Cycles and have had 2 rides on my local nearby trail. Wow. I'm a little scared at how fast I'm going down some of the chunk without picking a line or anything. It feels a bit like cheating. Suspension is super smooth and the confidence boost this bike gives is incredible. I was initially leaning Spearfish, but I decided I would sacrifice a little on the climbs to get that security on the descents. Spearfish was an amazing climber, but I kept feeling like I was going to go over the bars when it got hairy on the downs. With Propedal on, this bike climbs well, no problem. It's not the Spearfish on climbs, but it felt better than a lot of other bikes I tried. Plus, with the closeout price from Universal, I couldn't pass it up.

    The only change I have made so far is to change the grips out for Ergons, and I might cut the bars by an inch on either side so I'm not catching too many trees. Also, the front brake is already squeaking like crazy. The rub is also really bad. I used the spacer in the packing stuff to force the pads further apart and that helped the worst of the rub, but I still can't eradicate it. Is this just something I'll have to live with in the case of Elixir 5s? I tried resetting the front wheel several times. If this is just the nature of these brakes, I feel a Shimano upgrade is in the near future. Does anyone have any advice about this brake issue?

    My local trails (Northern VA) are mostly XC-type riding, but I'm headed to Boulder, CO next week for a work trip and taking my bike with me. I'll be able to ride most every day and can't wait to try it on some of the fun stuff in Lyons and Golden. Anyway, my .02 on an all-around great bike so far.
    Last edited by progfan1; 11-10-2012 at 06:33 AM.

  2. #2
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    Great bike! I made the UPGRADE TO SHIMANO XT! Well worth it!

  3. #3
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    You need to bleed the brakes. Unfortunately, it sounds like they have air in them. ....Something Avids are famous for.

  4. #4
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    Sometimes the Avids are "over-filled" a bit, and CAREFULLY letting just a drop or two out of the caliper will cure the rubbing syndrome. But if you let a tiny bit too much out, or get air in the system it will require a full bleed. We've been finding a lot of the OEM builds, if we do this to them, will result in about 80% of the time having a trouble-free brake system.
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  5. #5
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    Turns out that one of the bolts was a little loose, which the shop mechanic said was probably causing some of the vibrating and squeaking, although he did say that "sometimes Avids just squeak. They will bed in somewhat, and sometimes they will stop squeaking, but not always". He fixed the bolt and sanded down the pads a little, as he said it looked like they might have gotten contaminated, so the rub issue is gone. Needless to say, a Shimano upgrade is in the near future. The ridiculous complexity of the Avid bleed procedure alone is enough to make me want to change. It's like I would need a lab and my assistant, Igor, to do a proper Elixir bleed.

  6. #6
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    If done more than once or twice, the Avid bleed procedure should take no more than 4-5 minutes apiece. It DOES require you to have a good set of syringes for the procedure though. I understand the frustration with Avids in general though. If you want an UGLY complicated mess of a bleed, try Hayes anything.
    (Sorry to hijack the thread, I am also waiting on my '13 Horsethief 1, however I already have the Shimano XT brakes sitting on my bench at the shop!)


    Mikey

  7. #7
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    The 'Thief is a great ride. It is surprising what it can climb, it's not a sprinter by any means but it climbs well. When she's pointing down the trail it's a blast, flowy anything and it's a blast.

    The only issues I've had so far with the bike are the terrible Elixirs, replaced those for a set of Saint M810's that I had here. Huge improvement in stopping power, modulation, and now it's quiet, I like em!

    The other issue I've had is that it took me a while to find two creaking / squeaks that were driving me bonkers. Consider I've put about 500 miles on the bike since I've bought it a month to a month and a half ago I don't consider that a negative of the bike.

    The first creak came from the Maxle drop out, it would periodically loosen itself a little bit and cause some noise and a loose wheel. That was an easy fix.

    The next creak came from the BB area of the bike. Took the cranks off and the BB cups out and found a ton of dirt and zero grease from the installation!! That will cause creaking every single day of the week. While I had the cranks off I checked all the lower pivots and the rest of the bike was super tight and solid. Put the BB back on, installed the cranks and PRESTO no more annoying creak.

    To ensure a quiet ride I also cleaned the front end of the bike, took the fork off cleaned and regreased that area. Nice and quiet now!

  8. #8
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    What tools were required for initial assembly? Did it come with a shock pump?

  9. #9
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    Realistically all you should need is a set of allen wrenches and possibly a phillips screwdriver to adjust your derailleurs for a basic assembly.

    You can go further if you so choose, with reassembly of everything, but for that basic assembly that is all you need.

  10. #10
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    Great....assuming it did not come with a shock pump (first bike in MANY years...I don't even have the correct tire pump )

  11. #11
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    Nice pick up. If I catch you on the trails, I'm going to have to ask for a ride!

  12. #12
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    I had to play around with the brakes too, but as mentioned in my Horsethief thread...will be moving to Shimano again.

    I also had/have the creak issue. The first one was the Maxle, as stated, and now the second one is most likely the cranks...as also mentioned. Just been too lazy, and riding too much, to address it.

    Other than that I have just been bombing off the roof of the house *liar*, since this thing floats downhill.
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  13. #13
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    Careful not to trim the bars too much - I know "bar width is a preference" and all that, but for aggressive riding, you should definitely have as wide as you feel comfortable. I ride trails built back when bars were super narrow and you can usually adjust with body english (since you have wide bars and can actually control your bike).
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  14. #14
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    I ended up having about a half inch cut off either side. With the stock grips, I was holding at a place that was right for my shoulder width, but when I put the Ergons on, it pushed my hands wider, so an adjustment was needed. This is my first bike with wide bars and I like the feel of them, particularly going down the rocks.

  15. #15
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    I have a slightly different problem. No rub, but I have to squeeze the front lever into the grip for full force braking. I read that the 5s don't have contact point adjustment, so is there anything I can do?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vettevert View Post
    I have a slightly different problem. No rub, but I have to squeeze the front lever into the grip for full force braking. I read that the 5s don't have contact point adjustment, so is there anything I can do?
    Sure...take the front wheel off and squeeze the lever one time. I did two squeezes, and then had to push the pads back in...so I suggest starting with one squeeze.

    It made night and day difference.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ElbowScabs View Post
    Sure...take the front wheel off and squeeze the lever one time. I did two squeezes, and then had to push the pads back in...so I suggest starting with one squeeze.

    It made night and day difference.
    I will give it a try this evening. Crossing my fingers that it will be that easy

    Thanks!

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vettevert View Post
    I will give it a try this evening. Crossing my fingers that it will be that easy

    Thanks!
    It was that easy!

    Thanks again for the recommendation. I just took it really slowly (did F & R) and ended up with just what I wanted.

    More questions. Does propedal on the rp2 do anything for anyone? Mine has no difference with it on or off. Even off the bike putting pressure on the seat I can't tell any difference. The lockout (I know the propedal isn't supposed to be a full lockout) on the fork is obvious and works well. Also, does anyone have any links to the adjustment of the fork? I tried using the links for The 2012 34 Float on Fox's site, but they don't match my fork. Does our fork have compression adjustment or just rebound?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vettevert View Post
    It was that easy!

    Thanks again for the recommendation. I just took it really slowly (did F & R) and ended up with just what I wanted.

    More questions. Does propedal on the rp2 do anything for anyone? Mine has no difference with it on or off. Even off the bike putting pressure on the seat I can't tell any difference. The lockout (I know the propedal isn't supposed to be a full lockout) on the fork is obvious and works well. Also, does anyone have any links to the adjustment of the fork? I tried using the links for The 2012 34 Float on Fox's site, but they don't match my fork. Does our fork have compression adjustment or just rebound?

    I can tell if propedal is on or off but I am pretty far in the clyde category, no idea on the fork I started from a frame and have a marzocci 44

  20. #20
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    I can definitely tell if propedal is on or not. The one area where this bike does not excel (understandable, considering its geometry) is climbing. I have propedal on for just about every climb and often use fork lockout as well to keep the bobbing under control. The only time I seem to have the rear shock fully open is on a long or technical descent.
    Last edited by progfan1; 11-29-2012 at 05:50 PM.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewJL View Post
    I can tell if propedal is on or off but I am pretty far in the clyde category, no idea on the fork I started from a frame and have a marzocci 44
    You probably mean height, but I weigh 250+. I am running around 210psi in the rp2. Is there any other way to confirm the shock is working as designed?

    My propedal lever is fairly loose...is that normal? We can't adjust it can we

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vettevert View Post
    You probably mean height, but I weigh 250+. I am running around 210psi in the rp2. Is there any other way to confirm the shock is working as designed?

    My propedal lever is fairly loose...is that normal? We can't adjust it can we
    I am a bit heavier. I haven't pushed hard on the seat but I have pushed on it, and it's pretty stiff with propedal on or off. What Pressure do you have in the shock?

  23. #23
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    The easiest way to tell if the lever is actually functioning is fairly simple. Readjust your shock pressure to something you can cycle by hand (like 50-75lbs). Once your at that pressure cycle the suspension by pushing down on the seat with your hands / body. Now do it with the pro pedal on. Notice a difference? If not there may be an issue. I found at the higher pressures it's a bit tough to notice if it's actually doing something.

    Try that and see how it works.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewJL View Post
    I am a bit heavier. I haven't pushed hard on the seat but I have pushed on it, and it's pretty stiff with propedal on or off. What Pressure do you have in the shock?
    I am at around 210 right now, to the best of my memory. I played around trying to get around 30% sag.

  25. #25
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    My 2012 HT from Universal will be here Tuesday.. Cant wait!

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