Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    dvn
    dvn is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dvn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    682

    Horsethief setup tips?

    Hopefully picking up my new 2012 medium Horsethief tomorrow. I'm coming off a 26" 2011 Stumpy FSR Comp. I'm 5'10" and 195 lbs without gear. Any setup suggestions ? Fork and shock psi starting points? Has anyone changed the 36t chainring to a smaller one? Don't think I'll be able to push the 36. I'm in my mid fifties in good shape but not a super powerful rider. I'm currently running my 26 with a 22/33 with bash. Speaking of bashguards. Can one be installed on the 2x10? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    46
    If you are getting the 2012 HT the chain rings are 22/36. The 22 makes for a good climbing ring. I am also 50 and this works well for me. The 2013 HT will be a 24/36 up front. I am 230 lbs and run 90 psi front and 200 rear. You can reduce this pressure by probably 20 psi on both. This would just be a starting point. Sit on the bike and measure the sag and go from there. Shoot for 20% sag and see how it feels on the trail.
    As for bash rings, one member here told me a BBR at $18 worked for him, but I could not get it to work on mine due to clearance on the derailer. The ultimate setup is the MRP 2X guide or the truvativ X - guide, but this option is $150. Good luck and have fun, the HT is a great bike, I don't regret my purchase one bit.

  3. #3
    dvn
    dvn is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dvn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    682
    Thank you. I guess I'll give the stock gearing a try. Does the bike come with manuals for the suspension?

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    46
    No manuals, but there is tons of info and videos on the web for setting sag, just do a google search. The shop that you are buying the bike from should help you set the sag properly at time of purchase, if not, they're not much of a shop.
    The stock gearing of 22/36 up front is the lowest available that I know of as a "stock set", to get lower gearing you would have to do some mixing and matching to get a lower set up. I have read some posts on here of people running a 20 for the small ring, but that is not a combination that Sram has "pre-mated." I think the 22 small ring will work fine for you, I'm a large man to haul up a hill, and the 22 will take me up all but the steepest nasty stuff. The 36 being the big ring, you don't use that for climbing anyways. That is used on the gradual slopes/level/downhill. Shouldn't be an issue

  5. #5
    dvn
    dvn is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dvn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    682
    Picked up the bike this morning. Couple issues. Will yours shift to big big rings? Mine won't shift to the 36 in the back when on the big ring and shop said I shouldn,t use that anyway. It will shift to it on the small ring. I think the chain is too short. I'll probably go to a 33 or 34t up front any way as I like to stay in the larger ring as much as possible. I think it should still shift to it! He has my shock at 150psi and the fork at 95psi. Think I'm gonna have to play with those as I think the fork is stiff and the shock soft at those pressures. Also, there is a lot of play in the propedal lever on the shock. He says that's normal too but my Stumpjumper is not like that. He was going to call Fox and check on that. Since the dealer is a 1.5 hr drive, I think I'll be straightening out these issues myself.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    46
    1) Sorry, but your dealer sounds like he doesn't know his backside from a hole in the ground. The design of a 2x10 drive train allows for using all gears front and rear in any combination. To get it up onto the 36 in back there are two possibilities. First, try turning the barrel on the shifter on the handlebars out (left) a little at a time, this puts more tension on the cable which should get you up onto that ring. The other option, and this must be done carefully is to loosen the high limit screw on the back derailuer. Just do this a quarter turn at a time and test ride in an easy place, if you go too far with this it will allow the chain to go off the top of the 36. I would try the first option which should work. I use all the gears on mine and after adjusting out the initial cable stretch it has shifted flawlessly to every gear for 5 months now.
    2) Not sure on the play on the pro-pedal lever, I leave mine open all the time and never mess with it.
    3) Did this dumb a$$ have you sit on the bike and adjust the sag, or did he just guess on the pressure? For your weight I would say the fork is too much pressure, and the shock is not enough.

    I may be off base, but it sounds like this dealer merely sells bikes and is not a mountain biker. He should be well versed in setting sag and the simple adjustment of a 2x10 drive. I am no expert, but have learned enough about my trusted steed to make these adjustments myself, and know what should be done. Do some research on the web and you can find a lot of info on these two subjects. Before long you can work out these minor details yourself. A great purchase is a good shock pump. Look at the many online dealers and you can get a good one for uner $40.

  7. #7
    dvn
    dvn is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dvn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    682
    I'm familiar with bike set up. The shop owner is an experienced biker and racer. I guess he's just not a good mechanic. I got the bike home and started from scratch on the derailleur adjustment. Turns out the "C" screw adjustment was way off. Once that was corrected, it shifted to the big-big no problem. Took it out for the first ride last night and brought along my shock pump. Right now I'm at 75psi front and 175 rear. Seems pretty darn good. Pretty impressed with the handling and there doesn't seem to be much of an adjustment in riding style coming from the 26er. One thing I don't like are the SRAM matchmaker clamps. I like my brake levers set-up so my index finger falls on the end of the lever. When set-up this way, the shift levers are too far away. I'll just swap to individual clamps. Easy fix. I'm also going to go down a bit on the big ring. My knees were hurting trying to push that 36. I think I will be very happy once it's all dialed in! Thanks for your input.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •