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  1. #1
    Cleavage Of The Tetons
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    Want to run full housing to derailleurs...possible? ( internal routed frames)

    So, basically, the shifting on my Altitude is not so crisp, and I blame the funky routing. I would like to simply run full housing all the way to the rear, but isn't there some kind of internal stop preventing this? (At the down tube, near the head tube, necessitating housing cable to enter frame with a ferrule)
    Does anyone have a solution to do this without permanently altering the internal routing?
    There has GOT to be a better solution than the fishing around and whatnot that is involved now at the BB shell.
    Pics would be great!
    Last edited by rideit; 06-25-2013 at 08:16 PM.
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  2. #2
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    Aren't you just removing the cable stop insert at the bottom bracket to install the new cables?
    I'm a member of NSMBA and IMBA Canada

  3. #3
    Cleavage Of The Tetons
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    No, in order to run full housing, you would have to be able to insert it into the down tube up by the head tube, and there appears to be some sort of stop inside of there.
    (I think?)
    "We LOVE cows! They make trails for us.....

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  4. #4
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    There is a cable stop inside the frame, but I was just asking if you aren't taking the removable cable stop at the bottom bracket when you're changing the cable to make it easier.
    I'm a member of NSMBA and IMBA Canada

  5. #5
    Cleavage Of The Tetons
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    Yes, of course, but I am talking about up (deep) in the frame. The little aluminum stop thingie will probably have to go if I can figure this out, though.
    On another note, changing cables is definitely a PITA with this design. One thing I am hoping to remedy.
    "We LOVE cows! They make trails for us.....

    And then we eat them."

  6. #6
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    Reputation: rockyuphill's Avatar
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    Gore Ride-On cables is the way to go, huge reduction in cable friction and they last forever.
    I'm a member of NSMBA and IMBA Canada

  7. #7
    Cleavage Of The Tetons
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    Honestly, after selling them for a few decades, I hate those things.
    Still want to run full housing.
    "We LOVE cows! They make trails for us.....

    And then we eat them."

  8. #8
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    The only way you could internally run full length housing is drill the stops out in the frame and in the aluminium cable stop plug at the BB, and that would be a one way modification. The problem that running full length housing for the FD will present is the risk of having the length of the loop at the BB change if it slides up into the DT, and that will change shifting behaviour for the FD with greater travel. You'd likely need to put a zip tie around the FD loop at the entry into the frame to keep it from sliding up into the DT.

    If you want to try running full length housing, the best bet to try and see if it improves the shifting is to use stick on or zip tied cable guides and run them externally on the downtube like the 2011 Element MSL/RSL. If the full length housing improves the performance then you could alter the internal guides to accept the housing. That would invalidate your frame warranty.
    I'm a member of NSMBA and IMBA Canada

  9. #9
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    If you want to try running full length housing, the best bet to try and see if it improves the shifting is to use stick on or zip tied cable guides and run them externally on the downtube like the 2011 Element MSL/RSL. If the full length housing improves the performance then you could alter the internal guides to accept the housing. That would invalidate your frame warranty.
    This.

    If your shifting is not crisp, I doubt that full length housing is going to give you a big (if any) improvement. Easy enough to test without wrecking your frame. Just run it externally with zip ties.

  10. #10
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    I wouldnt recommend drilling out the headtube cable stop - I bet you would end up with some noise from the housing vibrating etc... on the inside of the DT. On my 790 frame i lost the alum cable guide for the BB area and for the interim I ran full length housing piggybacked onto the rear brake line. It was decent shifting but still not as smooth/crisp as the Gore setup Im running now with the std internal routing.

  11. #11
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    re: cable changes:

    Quick way:

    get a length of nylon cable liner (Jagwire Black Housing Liner > Components > Cables and Housing | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop)

    Release cables from Derailleurs

    Remove housing from Derailleurs to BB port

    Remove BB port

    Snip cables at SHIFTERS

    Remove housing from SHIFTERS to HT (DO NOT PULL CABLES OUT OF THE FRAME!!)

    Slide cable liner over cables, all the way through the frame

    Remove old cables, leaving liner in frame

    Thread new cables

    If you really have no access to liner:

    Tip the bike up so DT is vertical, feed cables in w. port removed. 9/10 times it will pop out the port hole. if it is tricky, rotate the cables as you feed them down.

    Voila.
    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    Yes, of course, but I am talking about up (deep) in the frame. The little aluminum stop thingie will probably have to go if I can figure this out, though.
    On another note, changing cables is definitely a PITA with this design. One thing I am hoping to remedy.
    Product Manager
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    Main Rides: 14 Proto - 13 Element RSL 29 - 13 Altitude MSL - 13 Prestige RSL

  12. #12
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    Reputation: rockyuphill's Avatar
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    Two thumbs up double plus agree. The improvement in shifting on my Element MSL with Gore Ride-On cables was immediate and has required no fiddling in 2 years.
    Quote Originally Posted by Alta825 View Post
    It was decent shifting but still not as smooth/crisp as the Gore setup Im running now with the std internal routing.
    Last edited by rockyuphill; 06-26-2013 at 08:12 PM.
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