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  1. #1
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    Wink Right stem for right position....Slayer sxc70

    Hi
    I have a Rm Slayer sxc70team 18 size 2009 and I have a race face stem 90mm 6degree......I'm 178cm tall and I feel myself a bit compressed on the bike....maybe too much seated....I'd like to try a 110mm stem but I don't know if it can be too much....what is your set up?
    Thanks
    Bye

  2. #2
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    Do you have an extra long torso or arms?
    How much seatpost is exposed and how is your saddle positioned now?

    Because of the angle of the seatpost, if you have less seatpost exposed, it shortens the cockpit quickly. If you run less exposed seatpost you may need a seatpost with more offset to get the saddle back further.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Right stem for right position....Slayer sxc70-slayer-sxc_large-001.jpg  

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  3. #3
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    Good suggestion. Wouldn't go to long with the stem.

  4. #4
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    I have to verify the right position of the saddle, I think that maybe is to near to the stem cockpit
    Thank you
    I will send a picture of the bike soon
    Last edited by titopresi; 04-21-2013 at 01:57 AM. Reason: A

  5. #5
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    hey here the bike....

    Name:  4fe87d1b3f6e29eab2d8c5259bfe4e9d_53826.jpg
Views: 156
Size:  4.1 KB

    hey what you think?
    ciao

  6. #6
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    That's a very very tiny photo
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  7. #7
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    Hi
    I ve Made some changement, i have bought a New stem, 120mm just to try if there is some benefit mov ing The weight front he rear wheel to The front wheel.....
    Just after The changement of The stem it seems to be a bit better but after a long ride up and down in The mountains i ve found that The control of The Bike is better in down hill with The shorter stem.....in The up hill it seems better The long stem but maybe just an impression.....

    How can i modify The position on The Bike incresing The efficency of pedalling....
    ??
    The position of The saddle on The Seat tube is the limit in terms of distance from the cockpit.....of the handle....


    The lenght of the crank?
    175 mm is the actual size.....170could be better?

    Do You Now any software to verify the sizing of bike respecting the size of the bike r????

    I have also thought to sel the Bike and to buy a new ONE.....

    Thanks so much
    Best regards

  8. #8
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    That's always the compromise, a long stem makes it easier to climb with your weight forward and slows down the steering and gives you more leverage so the front wheel doesn't flop around when the head angle gets slack climbing up a hill. For descending a short stem puts your weight back and speeds up the steering as the dynamic head angle gets steeper while going down hill. The best balance for up and down is going to be a stem in the 90-100mm range, and then a seatpost with enough offset to allow you to position yourself over the cranks.
    I'm a member of NSMBA and IMBA Canada

  9. #9
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    Thats the point.......
    The right position over The crank........
    But How to fix it?
    I ve done a lot of test of my position on The Bike.....but it is always a bad result about efficency in uphill......dont You Know a software about setting the Bike?
    Free software...?

  10. #10
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    The problem is that with a steep climb there is a physical change in the bike geometry as you subtract the angle of the slope from the head angle and seat angle, so to compensate you would normally move your butt up onto the nose of the saddle to maintain your position over the cranks for seated climbing pedaling. For descending you add the angle of slope to the head and seat angle so to compensate you'd move back on the saddle, or even behind the saddle. So you always have to decide if you will optimize the bike for flat ground, climbing or descending, there is no perfect setup that is optimum for all three.

    You may also need to go through the setup of sag for the fork and shock too, as that has a big impact on geometry. If you have the correct sag of 25% to 30% then you have a better starting point.

    Here's a video that goes through basic bike fit for an AM bike

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIoxArOU4B8
    I'm a member of NSMBA and IMBA Canada

  11. #11
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    Thanks alot for Your answer
    In effetti my rear shock is always too hard....i have to use all The travel possible.....i will work on The set up of The rear shock.....i put 250psi in The piggy and about 120in The shock....it's afox dp....maybe setting Two mode ONE for uphill and ONE for down hill could be better?
    Thanksa lot....
    Here there is a lot of show....so no Bike for the next week s....

  12. #12
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    If you have an opportunity, try to find a Fox RP23 for the SXC, like they used on the SXC50, it was a better match to the suspension tune, it wallowed less in the middle of travel and didn't blow through the travel quite so fast. And it was easier to setup. I sent mine to Push Industries to have it tuned and it made the SXC a whole different bike. It felt like a taller Element for pedaling uphills.

    Also, how wide are the handle bars on your bike? You might find that the 90mm stem and a 725mm bar provides a better feel for climbing and descending. I am now using 700mm wide flat bars on my XC bikes and 725-740mm bars on my trail bikes and it provides more steering leverage for climbing and descending.
    I'm a member of NSMBA and IMBA Canada

  13. #13
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well

    Hi
    The handle bar Now installed on the Rm is a race face xc ride and its no flat, is about 650mm T
    Dont You think that riding with such a handle bar 740mm could be more difficile for changing direction.....???
    Please suggest to me an handlebar......race Face?answer?



    What about The rear shock i think that a better set up could improve The feeling....
    I've Never put really Any attention on The regolations of that shock...i m about 80kg when going down hill....and i prefer to have little movement on The rear...i m using about 120mm of The total 160mm of the shock....i have not a linear response of the shock...it seems always or too soft or too hard....

  14. #14
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    I tried a wider bar a few years ago, going from 610mm to 660mm for XC, and then after a while even 660mm seemed narrow so I went to 685mm and then to 725mm. The wide bars give you so much leverage and help put weight on the front wheel and help make the cockpit feel bigger. A 725mm low rise bar like the Race Face Turbine 3/4" riser would be a good match for the SXC. You need to give it a try for a couple of weeks and you'd never go back to narrower bars.

    Everyone seems to have a challenge getting the DHX to perform well for uphills on the SXC, the DHX is designed to have more mid travel compliance for a plush DH ride, but the SXC is already a very high leverage in mid travel so it doesn't need the help.
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  15. #15
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    hi
    i've found the bar you r writing....and also another one, the nukeproof warhead 800....its' very cheap, with the price of the nukeproof i can buy half turbine.....
    You are right about the dhx 5.0....
    first i will try to set up better the dhx then i'll change the bar....
    thank a lot for your indication...

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