I can't really compare the two as the ETSX-70 is old and needs a lot of work to get it back up to speed.
BUT.
On it's own, I'm very happy. It's a very smooth and supple ride.
I'm coming off a lifetime of 26" tires as well. It turns with much less wobble and jankyness on the front tire; especially at slower speeds - all of which contributes to the awesome, more controlled ride.
I just picked up my Thunderbolt 770 last week and I would say that the ETS-X is a good comparison, it's been a while since I've ridden a FS bike this compact and nimble feeling with this much BB clearance, since I replaced my 2007 ETSX in fact. I've got the Ride9 setup for the highest bottom bracket and it is so great to be able to pedal over roots and rocks without pedal strike.
I think the Thunderbolt has to be the Goldilocks size between 26" and 29", it feels so nimble on tight trails and handles trail obstacles so easily. The advantages of 29" wheels in a great handling bike. My new favourite bike.
Based on the weight of a large 770 MSL, the BC Edition must be right in the 25.5-25.8 pound range without pedals. My Thunderbolt is at 25.7 pounds with Eggbeater pedals and with a standard seat post.
The Thunderbolt feels more compact and nimble, so if you ride tight and twisty stuff and you want the ability to easily lift the front wheel onto or over things, TBolt it is.
One thing I noticed is that it is really easy to peel these o-rings off of the swing link while handling the bike or knocking the mud off, I've peeled the right one off twice and the other one off half way once. They are just grippy enough that if you pickup the bike or slide your hand along that area, that a little movement pops them off.
Hi, I also ride in the Ontario area, have got used to my Charge Cooker fattie with 4.25" tires and aggressive steel geometry. Went back on my old Rocky Mountain Element Carbon 26'er to Kelso the other day, strained my back on the tiny frame .. the bike felt small and I was piling into stuff... I am also debating the Instinct 29" versus the Thunderbolt to come some way towards the capability of the fattie- do you really notice a difference between 26" and 27.5" wheels, and does the Thunderbolt have the ability to pile through heavy rock gardens etc or would the Instinct be a better bet? I should mention I am being offered a sweet deal on the Bolt so that is tipping the scale.
I ride a fat bike and a Thunderbolt, I recently came off of a whole gaggle of top notch 29ers and I am lovin the 27.5. I am also running mine in the highest bb spot on the ride 9 but with a 140mm fork up front and this thing kills it plowing through rock gardens. I have no experience with an Instinct, sorry. I will never go back to a 29er never ever.
The 27.5 wheel helps noticeably over the 26" but the Thunderbolt's slacker head angle and longer front centre helps even more. Even though my Thunderbolt 770 MSL is about 3 pounds heavier than my Element 70 MSL, it feels much easier to charge over roots and rocks, especially nice when climbing. The lack of pedal strike from the higher BB is a huge benefit.
That sounds really different as the Element keeps me way over the front.. Getting quite excited about it. I see you also do not have the remote handlebar lever for the rear shock - I understand your current configuration has CTD with three trail modes (different to remote lever version) - is it practical or would you prefer the shock with the bar mounted lever?
Yeah my 29ers and fat bike have a little better role over but the geo on the Thunderbolt is spot on where it just seems like I need to lean back a little and it rolls over just fine. The part I like the best baout the 27.5 is that it is so much easier to correct if I get on a bad line whereas the 29er once you where in it you are committed.
Just picked up my 770 today! I'll have to get some better pictures of it out in the wild. I set the tires up tubeless and converted to a 1x10 set-up with a 34t ring. Im not happy with the handlebar remote, any suggestions out there? Im thinking of upgrading to a Double Barrel Inline but not sure if it's worth it yet...
Just picked up my 770 today! I'll have to get some better pictures of it out in the wild. I set the tires up tubeless and converted to a 1x10 set-up with a 34t ring. Im not happy with the handlebar remote, any suggestions out there? Im thinking of upgrading to a Double Barrel Inline but not sure if it's worth it yet...
That is such a pretty bike. Debated the 770 for a while but decided against it due to buying a fat bike 6 months ago - luckily the 750 shares the same geo, and I also added a dropper post / cannot wait to let it rip - and to hearing Thunderbolt owners' comparative ride experiences
Yes, the bike is 25.5lbs as shown, pedals and all. Im pretty happy with the weight considering Im leaving the dropper post on and it comes with fairly aggressive tires.
Yeah I'll have to spend some more time on the shock and see if I want to just leave it in the trail setting and ditch the remote. The DB inline is tempting though...
Overall Im very impressed with the Thunderbolt so far. It pedals so well and I can still ride any jump or drop features along the trail. Best of both worlds!
Near as I can tell the only difference is the inner cable diameter, road sets are 1.1mm and MTB cables are usually 1.2mm, so they should all be compatible. The inner lining is long enough in both cases.
Bit the bullet and bought a 750 MSL. Customized it a bit with XT brakes, shifters, derailleurs and a trek wheelset. I have to admit... I really enjoy riding this bike.
You could run the current chain length if your new chain ring is in the middle of that range but to minimize the chance of chain drop with the N/W ring you'd ideally want to resize the chain using the big ring to big cog plus 2 links with the suspension in 100% sag approach (chain not run through the derailleurs for the sizing). The SRAM RD doesn't have a clutch, so the chain length is more important.
You need need an 8mm Allen wrench to remove the Turbine crank (a nice clean tight fitting one with a fairly long leg to fit as deep as possible in the crank bolt) and ideally a torque wrench to reinstall that crank bolt. The chainrings are held on with Torx type chainring bolts, T-25 or T-30 if I remember correctly.
You could run the current chain length if your new chain ring is in the middle of that range but to minimize the chance of chain drop with the N/W ring you'd ideally want to resize the chain using the big ring to big cog plus 2 links with the suspension in 100% sag approach (chain not run through the derailleurs for the sizing). The SRAM RD doesn't have a clutch, so the chain length is more important.
You need need an 8mm Allen wrench to remove the Turbine crank (a nice clean tight fitting one with a fairly long leg to fit as deep as possible in the crank bolt) and ideally a torque wrench to reinstall that crank bolt. The chain rings are held on with Torx type chain ring bolts, T-25 or T-30 if I remember correctly.
i thought the rear x9 derailleur was clutched? is that not the case. there specs say the gen 2 is a clutched derailleur. I may also be miss understanding your statement there. I thought a clutched rear derailleur was necessary for this to work
I was trying to get a look at the derailleur to see if it had a clutch, but couldn't tell from the photo, you definitely want a clutched rear derailleur for the 1x narrow/wide ring.
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