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  1. #1
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    2012 slayer 50 hub adjustment

    I've had my slayer 50 for about a couple of months and my front wheel has a little play. It feels like maybe the hub wiggled loose but I cant figure out how to adjust the preload, if there is such an adjustment on these wheels. I can't get into the hub because the plastic end caps which the axle goes through on either side of the hub dont come off. Anyone have any suggestions.

  2. #2
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    Usually the end caps are just held on by spring c-clips for 20mm hubs. A small screw driver should be able to pop those on and off easy enough I would think?
    Tarekith.com

    '12 RM Slayer70, i9 Torch, Flow EX, XT Brakes, 5050 s3.

  3. #3
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    New 2012 Slayer 50....same problem

    I have the same problem with my brand new 2012 Slayer 50 which has only been on 1 7-mile ride. There's a slight wobble/play when the wheel is mounted tightly in the fork (it was this way out-of-the-box too). I re-ensured the axle is screwed in through the fork as tight as I can get it and tightened up the pinch bolts a bit. But the play remains.

    I'm not seeing any clips which are holding the plastic end caps in place. The end caps themselves have lots of play when not mounted in the fork. But the actual hub feels solid and rotates smoothly. I'm not under the impression that the problem is with the hub - but maybe the end caps??

    I can't find any service related information for the WheelTech hubs.

    Any pointers on how to remove the play when the wheel is mounted tight?

    Thanks!
    Mike

  4. #4
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    It's odd but I took my wheel off and on and did a few rides and now it's tight. It seems like it will come back so I'd like some feedback on how to work on the hub. My new problem is more disturbing, when I have the propedall on and the shock compresses there is a hard thunk as the bike hits some hard resistance as it goes through the travel then it smooths out again. When the proposal is off I done have that problem, but at the top of the travel it doesn't feel smooth. I'm not sure if it's the pivots or the shock. I'm going to retighten all the pivots and see I that fixes it.

  5. #5
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    Sounds like a shock problem, but put the bike in a stand run the suspension through its travel with very little air in the shock and make sure the suspension isn't catching on a loop of cable or something
    I'm a member of NSMBA and IMBA Canada

  6. #6
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    Yep I think it's a problem with the damper in the shock when pro pedal is on since it's not happening when it's off. I live right down the way from fox so I'll take it by there this week. Also my hub is still loose but the closest rm dealer is 100 miles away so if anyone has any input on the hub that would be great otherwise I'll just call them and troubleshoot over the phone.

  7. #7
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    So the rp23 is being warrantied at fox and I checked with the Rm dealer on the wheel, here is what he said: the ends for the axle pop off the hub and inside are the bearings. There is no preload adjustment. I explained it was like that right out of the box and he said a play is normal. Thats BS. I contacted rocky and they said: there should be no play. We have seen this in a few cases it's from the hub bearings not being pressed in all the way and it's a simple fix. Press out the bearings (make sure you use a bearing press not a hammer and a screwdriver) clean out, then press them back in and make sure you feel them bottom out. That's it. They responded quickly and were cool. They said if you take it to the shop you bought it from its free but for all you jenson guys youll have to do it yourself or pay your local wrench. Hope this helps anyone else with the same problem.
    Last edited by avishade; 09-05-2012 at 03:35 PM.

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the heads up, good to know. What happened with your RP23?
    Tarekith.com

    '12 RM Slayer70, i9 Torch, Flow EX, XT Brakes, 5050 s3.

  9. #9
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    I won't know till next week, I'm not taking into fox till Monday. I'll let you know.

  10. #10
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    I meant, what is it that's making you send it in the first place?
    Tarekith.com

    '12 RM Slayer70, i9 Torch, Flow EX, XT Brakes, 5050 s3.

  11. #11
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    I described it in post #4 in this thread

  12. #12
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    Sorry, I missed that part. My RP23 was leaking badly when I got my Slayer 70 last week too, luckily it's easy enough to change the seals and jensonusa.com (where I bought it) is even going to reimburse me the cost. Great customer service considering I bought the kit at a local bike shop so I wouldn;'t be without my bike in peak riding season.
    Tarekith.com

    '12 RM Slayer70, i9 Torch, Flow EX, XT Brakes, 5050 s3.

  13. #13
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    Im lucky because I live right by fox so I can drop it off and pick it up and it should only be 4 days. I just called fox and set up an RA# and I'll take it in Monday and ride it till then since its all warrantied anyway.

  14. #14
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    So I got my rp23 back with a full rebuild and a new boost valve and it had the same problem so the service manager had it rebuilt again and now it works fine but... The play in the front wheel which I started this thread about turned out not to be the hub but the fork. Fox built it with too much tolerance so I took it in today and they gave me new lowers and a rebuild. I pick it up tomorrow morning do ill post the results. It's a good thing that I live close to fox or I'd be sol for months, I think the quality of their products has gone down the tubes in the Last few years. Also a word of warning: don't try to take apart these wheeltech hubs, I took it to 2 bike shops and they both said that the end caps are really sealed on the hub and it won't ever work right again if they pry them off, if your wheel has play try another wheel on the fork. If it has the same wiggle it's probably the fork. Apparently this is not an uncommon problem with the recent fox 20mm forks.

  15. #15
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    Thanks for the info avishade! I certainly hope I don't have the same issues you've gone through on my new Slayer 50. But for my hub (which also had a little play in the beginning) self healed itself after a few rides. My thought on this is the bearings bedded themselves in the hub over time.

  16. #16
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    Yes, the service guy at rm suggested that the bearings weren't seated so after a month of riding a loose wheel I tried to fix the hub. That was when I discovered how hard the ends are to take off. the bike shops checked the wheel on another bike and it was fine, tried on several wheels to be sure it was the fork not the hub. Other than the fork the rear shock and the headset being warrantied the bike is perfect, best ride I've had.

  17. #17
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    Hopefully this is my last post on the status of my bike. Picked up my fork today from fox with new lowers seals and oil and... it works like it should! Finally my bike is running smoothly and it rips. The loose wheel was pretty minor but its just annoying on a new bike, but the back shock was awful. So overall: Slayer yeah!
    Fox shocks...meh.

  18. #18
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    I have just changed the bearings on my slayer 50 , the end caps just pop off to expose the bearing , pop bearing in and push end caps back on , no sweat !

  19. #19
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    Is this a 2012 slayer? What did you just pop them off with because my are really on there. The hub and bearings are fine and the wheel is tight but it would be good to know when I need to change out the bearings in the future.

  20. #20
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    2012 slayer 50 hub adjustment-bearing.jpgI just kinda got a thin blade under it and it popped off, or use the handle of a socket wrench and prise it off like in photo

  21. #21
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    Ok, cool thanks for the advice. I was worried I'd bend or tweak the end cap or something but they look pretty solid. Thanks

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