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  1. #1
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    03-04 Element Team SC - rear pivot bolts torque specs?

    just picked up either a 03 or 04 used 18" frame 2004 Rocky Mountain Element Team SC - BikePedia frame and would like to take apart the rear and clean and inspect the bushings.

    what are the torque specs and procedure to pull apart that rear? how about the bolt that connects to the rear shock? anything special i need to do or look for while in there?

    thanks, bill

  2. #2
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    i'm stripping my wifes basic never used 16.5" 2000 element team race bikes for parts to put on this frame. she bought the wrong size (too small), rode it 2x and stashed it years ago. new Geax tires and all :-). crazy to see a 13yr old bike that looks brand new.

    the bike has a sealed BB and Race face evolve cranks.
    are there torque specs on those when i mount on the new frame?

    any other specific specs i need to watch out for?

    thanks, bill

  3. #3
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    anyone know the rear shock specs?
    the SC Fox RL shock seems in good shape, but i'd like to know for the future.
    might upgrade or send this one to Push when the time comes?

  4. #4
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    The OE shock specs are shrouded in the mists of time, Fox would have it but there's no other publicly accessible info on the tuning. Other than the 6.5" x 1.5" spec.

    The M6 bolts will have a torque spec of 80 in-lbs and the 8mm steel bolts will have a 100 in-lbs torque spec, both torque specs with blue 242 Loctite on the threads.

    These are the instructions for the 2006 Element, but the basic process isn't going to be a lot different for the earlier models.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 03-04 Element Team SC - rear pivot bolts torque specs?-element-3d-link.gif  

    03-04 Element Team SC - rear pivot bolts torque specs?-element-dropout-pivot.gif  

    03-04 Element Team SC - rear pivot bolts torque specs?-element-bb-pivot.gif  

    03-04 Element Team SC - rear pivot bolts torque specs?-element-instructions.gif  

    I'm a member of NSMBA and IMBA Canada

  5. #5
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    my frame has bushings all the way around, even at the bottom bracket.
    ALL bolts with bushings are 80 inlbs.
    the 8mm steel bolt is #9 where it attached at shock right?
    is #3 front shock bolt the same 100 inlb torque?

    thanks for the size specs of shock.
    if i need an upgrade/refresh can i buy a newer rp3/rp23 or should i send this to Push?

    where can i buy just replacement bushings online?
    closest RM dealer is a new one and doesn't stock and 1hr away from me.

    thanks! bill

  6. #6
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    The torque specs should apply to any of the steel bolts of those sizes. Make sure your 5mm hex wrench for those seat stay bushings is super crisp as those are very easy to round the heads out if the Allen wrench doesn't fit well.

    An RP23 would be a nice upgrade. The newer CTD tuning would be less beneficial.

    For the bushing kits it will likely be a special order from any dealer, it's unlikely that anyone will stock kits for a frame of that age. Jenson USA is an authorized online retailer, and you can always check with their online shop rocky_shop@bikes.com

    Small parts - Bike Store
    I'm a member of NSMBA and IMBA Canada

  7. #7
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    thanks. what about that bolt underneath and in the center near the BB?
    does that come out before the 2 side bolts?

  8. #8
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    I'm trying to remember said bolt from my old 2000 frame, and I can't picture it. Can you post a photo?
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  9. #9
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    will do. on the pivot down near the bb it's in the middle of the pivot arm going straight in to where where the hardware pieces are. it has a small washer on it so it's not bottomed down onto the pivot. it's 2-3mm allen bolt.

  10. #10
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    I think that bolt retains the sleeve bolt in the pivot, so that would have to come out to slide the pivot axle out
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockyuphill View Post
    I think that bolt retains the sleeve bolt in the pivot, so that would have to come out to slide the pivot axle out
    the lower small bolt has a rubber washer on it. it's nothing more than access point to the inner sleeve. i needed to put a small round tool in there and hold that inner sleeve so it would not spin when I unbolted the 2nd pivot bolt.

  12. #12
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    here was my method for removing those pivots bolts on both an Element Race (steel pivot bolts) & Element SC (alum pivot bolts)

    -remove wheels and crank from both bikes.
    -put frame in bike stand
    -use a heat gun on low setting to warm up those pivot bolts. on the rear and top rear bolts you can apply heat from the back side right at the threaded part of the bolt. gentle use of heat helps a ton to crack loose bolts
    -loosen only those 4 bolts w/ a multi allen tool. it's newer with crisp edges. apply pressure inwards while supporting frame and turn to loosen. if the bolt does not start to move easily apply more heat, but protect pivot sleeves.
    -on the pivot bolt on the upper linkage just below the shock, apply heat at the bolt head. apply plenty of heat just be aware not to melt pivot sleeves.
    -this bolt was harder to remove as i did not have access to the backside threads.
    -i used a 3/4" socket wrench & allen bit socket and applied plenty of inward pressure while turning the wrench. i watched the bolt head to verify not stripping. inward pressure is the key. i applied tighten & then loosen force on the bolt several times and they cracked free.
    -the hardest bolts are the lower bottom bracket pivot bolts. there were not coming off up on the bike stand. i grabbed an old motorcycle tire and place towels on the tire too. i then could lay the frame on it's side on the ground safely apply downwards pressure, yet the motorcycle tire also gave some flex and give.
    -i applied head to the bolt heads and started with a hand hammered impact tool
    Impact Screwdriver Set with Case
    -this is an essential tool for frozen or tight bolts. it applied inwards impact and twisting force on bolts all at once w/ a hammer blow.
    -so with the bike on its side isolated from solid ground by a motorcycle tire and towels, I set the tool to tighten and hit it a few times. i then set to loosen and repeated the whole thing a few times.
    -i then went back to my socket wrench and applied nice firm downwards pressure on the bolt head and the bolt come loose easily with not bolt damage or deforming.
    - it was obvious the previous owner of the bike attempted to loosen these bolts and they started to strip and then stopped there. with my proper mechanics method i was successful. the funny thing is the aluminum bolts on the SC came out easier than the steel bolts on the other frame.
    -with all the bolts hand loose i remove the shock bolt and then took the all pieces apart making sure to keep track of where everything goes.
    -i cleaned up the pivot bushing with windex and put it all back together with locktite blue and the proper torque.

    bill

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