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  1. #1
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    Very Early Ritchey..The Next Project!

    Here is a super early Ritchey frame that I am going to build up. I don't want to remove the paint or original stickers. This is probably from the time when Ritchey was building for Fisher since it has the Fisher sealed bearing BB. Definitely a Ritchey though since it has an early serial number of Tom's.
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  2. #2
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    By the way, You can really see how Tom's grinding improved over the years when you look at this frame and compare it to ones from the mid 80's.

  3. #3
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    Very nice frame.

    Does this Ritchey and the Mountain Goat Deluxe both fit you?!?

  4. #4
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    that one isn't that old since it has later details like the seat collar, tapered chainstays and the unicrown fork.

  5. #5
    the new Gilbert Grape
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    I'd guess an '84. Cool looking bike.
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  6. #6
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    It's the Ritchey that just came through Ebay with surprisingly little interest if I'm correct. Very nice looking.

  7. #7
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    Yep. Times are hard out there at $4.00 per gallon!

  8. #8
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    Yes, but the stays are huge and the BB is of that Fisher era. Probably 83-84.

  9. #9
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    Nope. I am in the middle between them. I am just saving a few of the old frames for posterity. Kind of like old Christmas ornaments in my garage!

  10. #10
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    The other thing about this frame is the non slotted cable stops (other than the top tube) and the non Ritchey "USA" decals. There also was no "Handmade" decal. The brake studs are also early...before he used standard Shimano ones.

  11. #11
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    whats the serial number? For the most part, once the unicrown fork came out Gary Fisher and Tom and gone seperate ways. Probably an 84-85 Timber Wolf. The serial number will help. Should start with "1B" or maybe "2B".
    Last edited by Fillet-brazed; 05-17-2008 at 10:15 PM.

  12. #12
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    1B177 is the serial number.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fillet Brazed Forever
    1B177 is the serial number.
    not that i know anything about old Ritcheys but according to http://www.oldmountainbikes.com/bikes/ that makes it a 21" 85 Timber Wolf, right?

    Carsten

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carsten
    not that i know anything about old Ritcheys but according to http://www.oldmountainbikes.com/bikes/ that makes it a 21" 85 Timber Wolf, right?

    Carsten

    yeah, I glanced at that too, It looks like maybe the Timber Comps and the Timber Wolfs have their own number sequence. Some Timber Comps had very close numbers to FBF's and they were 87ish and some Timber Wolfs with close numbers that looked earlier.

  15. #15
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    Ritchey up and running.

    Well at least she is up and running. I will be swappiong out some parts like the pedals, and stem later as I get period replacements. The ride quality is great! Now if I could only get those Maguras to stop rattling!
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  16. #16
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    I can tell you from my experience with Ritcheys, that this is on the earlier side. This was made before Tom really started to have a supply of frame materials that kept his construction consistent. This frame is so much different from the 85 I have.

  17. #17
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    From what I figure out, it looks like this is an "85 Timber Comp 21".

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fillet Brazed Forever
    I can tell you from my experience with Ritcheys, that this is on the earlier side. This was made before Tom really started to have a supply of frame materials that kept his construction consistent. This frame is so much different from the 85 I have.
    Which other '85 do you have?

    The color of this one makes me say '84, but the serial number looks to be a little later ('85ish). I think that Tom's work was always consistently high. Frame details varried more on the early frame (79-83), but were still consistently built.
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fillet Brazed Forever
    I can tell you from my experience with Ritcheys, that this is on the earlier side. This was made before Tom really started to have a supply of frame materials that kept his construction consistent. This frame is so much different from the 85 I have.

    I assume the 85 youre talking about is your Team Comp? If so, thats because your Team Comp is a "C" frame and much nicer. This one is a "B" frame. Less expensive and not as nicely finished.

    The early frames had different details than either your Team Comp or this one here.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fillet Brazed Forever
    From what I figure out, it looks like this is an "85 Timber Comp 21".

    It would technically be a Timber Wolf since the Timber Comp had roller cam bosses. They had different builds too, with the Comp having a lighter, more racier build.

  21. #21
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    I guess I am just comparing the finish quality to my Team Comp which is in a whole other league. I am seeing others listed with similar details like the non slotted cable stops and BB, so I think it is correct to say 84-85 on this one.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fillet Brazed Forever
    I guess I am just comparing the finish quality to my Team Comp which is in a whole other league. I am seeing others listed with similar details like the non slotted cable stops and BB, so I think it is correct to say 84-85 on this one.

    yeah, if you see a unicrown fork its '84 or newer. the tapered stays happened about then too.

  23. #23
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    Well apparently someones abandoned project...

    becomes my new project. Got the frame and fork a couple weeks ago. This is what I have so far. I'm kicking myself now for selling the Magura levers and 600ex headset that I had a couple months ago. Plans are for mostly m700. Paint wasn't quite as nice as I was hoping, and the driveside chainstay looks like it was repainted. So, this might be a candidate for a repaint.
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    Need: McMahon brake for roller cam mounts, Mountain Goat fork.

  24. #24
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    I'd leave the pain as is. The old decals are boss and the light paint wear that there is gives patina and will let you enjoy using slightly used parts. Can't want to see it come together!

  25. #25
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    Yeah, I've always been a follower of the axiom: "You can repaint it a hundred times but its only original once." This will be my first pre-index shifting build so it s a little different from what I'm used to. But it should be fun.
    Need: McMahon brake for roller cam mounts, Mountain Goat fork.

  26. #26
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    I say leave the paint since it will look better the more parts you hang on it. Never sell your maguras! That is the first rule of thumb.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by bushpig
    I'd leave the paint as is. The old decals are boss and the light paint wear that there is gives patina and will let you enjoy using slightly used parts. Can't want to see it come together!
    I agree. I'd leave the paint as it is too. If it were rusting away paint would make sense, but this bike looks fine. Put on a coat of car wax, and it will be ready for years of use.
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  28. #28
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    Don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but I don't think those chainstays are original... Looks like that frame was repaired... Hopefully Im wrong. The dent is not right and that bridge doesnt look right either. I think I can see the change in paint in that area?

  29. #29
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    I can't vouch for the dent or the bridge, but the repainted area goes from the botom bracket area to a couple inches from the drop out and its just the drive side. So, the stay still has some of the original paint. What were you thinking the dent/bridge should look like?
    Need: McMahon brake for roller cam mounts, Mountain Goat fork.

  30. #30
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    I'm pretty sure it shouldnt have a dent and that bridge should have more of a fillet at the joint there, but I'll have to check mine to be 100% sure. It doesnt look right. If you really want to confirm that it's a new right stay you could scratch below the new paint to see if there is an original coat below...

  31. #31
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    Does the right side stay exactly match the left? Maybe my eyes are just playing tricks on me...

  32. #32
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    The stays appear to match and there is original paint on the stay. Also the cable stop for the rear derailleur matches the others fwiw.
    Need: McMahon brake for roller cam mounts, Mountain Goat fork.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by muddybuddy
    The stays appear to match and there is original paint on the stay. Also the cable stop for the rear derailleur matches the others fwiw.

    Hmmm. I checked mine and it doesn't have a dent on the stay, but it's an older B frame with the non-tapered stays.

    Here is another B frame with the tapered stays like yours also without a dent:

    <img src="http://oldmountainbikes.com/bikes/pics/0B27/DSCN0188_sm.jpg">

  34. #34
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    Is there any other possible explanation for the dent? Different tubing perhaps? Assuming that the paint on the rest of the frame is original, the repainted part only goes back about as far as the cable stop.
    Need: McMahon brake for roller cam mounts, Mountain Goat fork.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by muddybuddy
    Is there any other possible explanation for the dent? Different tubing perhaps? Assuming that the paint on the rest of the frame is original, the repainted part only goes back about as far as the cable stop.

    I don't know. Ive never seen a Ritchey with dented tubing like that.

    I only have one B frame (Commando), so maybe some other owners can chime in with what theirs has.

  36. #36
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    I'll check on mine when I get home.

  37. #37
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    I've not seen one like that. Chain suck was probably repaired at some point, and it was added for ring clearance.
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  38. #38
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    Its a Huffy, you're screwed.
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  39. #39
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    Maybe the previous owner of the bike can shed some light on the history of the frame. Might be helpful. How difficult would it be to put the dent for chainring clearance? It looks very smooth, not like it was done with a hammer and a screwdriver.
    Need: McMahon brake for roller cam mounts, Mountain Goat fork.

  40. #40
    the new Gilbert Grape
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    Quote Originally Posted by muddybuddy
    How difficult would it be to put the dent for chainring clearance? It looks very smooth, not like it was done with a hammer and a screwdriver.
    Lots of bikes come this way, just not Ritcheys (although he new Break Away CX bikes have this feature).


    P.S. That's not to say that there aren't other Ritchey models that had this feature. Just none in the 80's that I've seen.
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

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