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  1. #1
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    Ritchey Rep here to answer all you questions

    Hi All!

    Just wanted to introduce myself. I'm the spokesperson here at Ritchey Design USA and I'd like to invite anyone who has any questions or comments about our products to post them here on the Ritchey / Syncros Forum. I'll do my best to respond and help you understand the vast array of bicycle components we have to offer.

    Here at Ritchey we all ride and are extremely passionate and proud of everything we produce. Please don't be shy. Let us know what you think!

    Dave
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  2. #2
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    I have always been a big fan of Ritchey stuff. All my bikes have Ritchey bars, stems, seatposts and pedals. But I have two sets of Ritchey WCS V4, and one set of Pro V4pedals that are worn out after about 1000 miles of riding for each set. I contacted you guys and was told I was out of luck because you had no rebuild parts. The solution I was given was to buy more super expensive Ritchey pedals because the paradigm does have small parts available. That really has turned me off to you guys. I mean these were some seriously expensive pedals that lasted one year, now they are just titanium paperweights. I can't even sell these things on ebay because they are so worn out and not even good for parts. I mean the least you guys could have done is offer me some discounted pedals or something. I don't think anyone can deny that the V4 pedals were poorly engineered. A set of $30 wellgo pedals lasted me 10 years of riding, a $200 set of pedals ought to outlast cheap wellgo pedals. I will say though that the V4 IMO have the best engagement of any pedal I have tried, while they were working well I loved them.
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  3. #3
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    Why are all the threads on vintage Ritchey bikes from the VRC forums being pulled in here?

    It seems like a very misguided idea. Nearly all the threads below are about classic hand-made Tom Ritchey frames and are not at all related to the current Ritchey/Syncros component/parts line up. Please put the vintage threads back where you found them!!
    Last edited by yo-Nate-y; 04-03-2011 at 09:25 PM.

  4. #4
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    Agreed

  5. #5
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    Production numbers

    Hi Dave, it is nice to have a Ritchey expert to answer our questions here at MTBR. I know I have many questions to ask.

    Here is one to get us going:

    How many fillet brazed frames did Tom Ritchey make between 1980 and 1990. please break it down to the best of your knowledge by by model and year. A simple excel spreadsheet would be great. I look forward,
    T

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ljsmith
    I have always been a big fan of Ritchey stuff. All my bikes have Ritchey bars, stems, seatposts and pedals. But I have two sets of Ritchey WCS V4, and one set of Pro V4pedals that are worn out after about 1000 miles of riding for each set. I contacted you guys and was told I was out of luck because you had no rebuild parts. The solution I was given was to buy more super expensive Ritchey pedals because the paradigm does have small parts available. That really has turned me off to you guys. I mean these were some seriously expensive pedals that lasted one year, now they are just titanium paperweights. I can't even sell these things on ebay because they are so worn out and not even good for parts. I mean the least you guys could have done is offer me some discounted pedals or something. I don't think anyone can deny that the V4 pedals were poorly engineered. A set of $30 wellgo pedals lasted me 10 years of riding, a $200 set of pedals ought to outlast cheap wellgo pedals. I will say though that the V4 IMO have the best engagement of any pedal I have tried, while they were working well I loved them.
    Sorry to hear about your unsatisfactory experience. It's unfortunately true regarding rebuild parts right now. However, we've got some great new pedal designs right around the corner that might be a better fix.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by yo-Nate-y
    Why are all the threads on vintage Ritchey bikes from the VRC forums being pulled in here?

    It seems like a very misguided idea. Nearly all the threads below are about classic hand-made Tom Ritchey frames and are not at all related to the current Ritchey/Syncros component/parts line up. Please put the vintage threads back where you found them!!
    We just started this Ritchey forum and they gathered everything with Ritchey as the subject and throw it in. Give it time and I'm sure Ritchey's more relevent and current products will get their time.
    Dave Law
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aemmer
    Hi Dave, it is nice to have a Ritchey expert to answer our questions here at MTBR. I know I have many questions to ask.

    Here is one to get us going:

    How many fillet brazed frames did Tom Ritchey make between 1980 and 1990. please break it down to the best of your knowledge by by model and year. A simple excel spreadsheet would be great. I look forward,
    T

    Unfortunately we don't keep track of Tom's early frame work. However a great resource for this is www.oldmountainbikes.com.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ritchey_dave
    We just started this Ritchey forum and they gathered everything with Ritchey as the subject and throw it in. Give it time and I'm sure Ritchey's more relevent and current products will get their time.

    Thanks for the response, but that's not the point. This forum is fine for "relevant and current" stuff, but you pulled a lot of threads about vintage Ritchey bikes here from the Vintage, Retro, Classic (VRC) forum. People want those threads moved back, since they are a great resource for those of us who enjoy vintage bikes.

    For contemporary stuff, by all means do it here. But please have them move the vintage threads back to VRC!!

  10. #10
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    Another great resource was the VRC forum on this very same site. If the vintage threads don't get moved back, you are just going to have a lot of angry vintage Ritchey fans (and people, by the way who also buy modern stuff!). Not a good move.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by yo-Nate-y
    Another great resource was the VRC forum on this very same site. If the vintage threads don't get moved back, you are just going to have a lot of angry vintage Ritchey fans (and people, by the way who also buy modern stuff!). Not a good move.
    Not trying to anger anyone, just trying give people a channel off communication with us. I'll contact MTBR.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ritchey_dave
    Unfortunately we don't keep track of Tom's early frame work. However a great resource for this is www.oldmountainbikes.com.

    A website started and maintained by a VRC regular. Great resource for new Ritchey lovers here in this new forum...but all the VRC regulars know about it.


    I'm happy Ritchey and Syncros are getting their own forum. Congrats and good luck.
    -eric-

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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by ritchey_dave
    I'll contact MTBR.
    Yes, please do. The new products have nothing to do with the VRC products.

  14. #14
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    I think that's an awesome idea to have a Ritchey rep here. What an asset to MTBR.

  15. #15
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    HI,

    Can you tell me if Ritchey decals are still available? Especially from the early 90's ?
    "I think it is heavy and often stupid and doesn't work as well as Shimano, but I keep using it. -- NG

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by kb11
    HI,

    Can you tell me if Ritchey decals are still available? Especially from the early 90's ?
    I'd like to know the same thing as I'm after a couple of sets of decals for a 1995 Crazy Pete that I'm restoring. Mine definitely needs a repaint and hence new decals.
    Alex

  17. #17
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    And when are we going to see a reincarnation or reissue of the Syncros Revolution cranks from the mid-90's?

    Damn nice piece of equipment.
    Alex

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by kb11
    HI,

    Can you tell me if Ritchey decals are still available? Especially from the early 90's ?

    We have a bunch of random decals kicking around the office. If you let me know what you're looking for I can tell you if they're available.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  19. #19
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    Need 1 "Handmade by Tom Ritchey" and 2 TR head tube decal with small USA , white.
    "I think it is heavy and often stupid and doesn't work as well as Shimano, but I keep using it. -- NG

  20. #20
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    Yeah, we've got those. You can have you local bike shop call us up and special order them.

    Same goes for you alexk, we've got decals that'll work on your Crazy Pete. We don't have any plans to rerelease those Syncros cranks, but I'll toss the idea into the think tank.
    Dave Law
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  21. #21
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    Good day,

    Bought a rim (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=52947) and cannot find any information about it on official website. Currently to complete a wheel I need to know:
    1) which side to disk brake (rim has one wall goes a bit steeper than another)
    2) how to calc spoke length properly (considering eyelets offset on OCR rim), should I just reduce offset from hub's center-to-falnge value?
    3) which are ERD and offset for this particular Ritchey OCR XC 26" 28h rim
    4) can I use Alu nipples with this rim?

    Your help is greately appreciated!
    Last edited by e_lasman; 04-08-2011 at 01:49 PM.

  22. #22
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    good questions.

    1) which side to disk brake (rim has one wall goes a bit steeper than another)
    The steeper side is the drive side, the other side is the disk brake side.

    2) how to calc spoke length properly (considering eyelets offset on OCR rim), should I just reduce offset from hub's center-to-falnge value?
    this website should help you figure out exactly what length spokes to get:
    http://lenni.info/edd/

    3) which are ERD and offset for this particular Ritchey OCR XC 26" 28h rim
    see above

    4) can I use Alu nipples with this rim?
    Yes

    Hope this helps!
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  23. #23
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    Thank you Dave! ERD and OSB where helpful on that website, while Specialized Stout hub seems to be VERY different from year to year and on different web-sites ))) But thank you again for your help! Hope to ride wheel in a day or two

    P.S. IMO still it would be nice to have such vital info on official website rather than refer to 3rd party ones.

  24. #24
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    My pleasure, glad I could help!
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  25. #25
    ELMO IS MY LORD!!!
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    Are Ritchey WCS carbon handlebars coated in anything to protect them from UV rays?
    It's only a matter of time...

  26. #26
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    Any news on the 29er frame availability?

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by HX520W View Post
    Are Ritchey WCS carbon handlebars coated in anything to protect them from UV rays?
    No, but I've yet to see something made unrideable because of it. That being said, I wouldn't leave them outside fully exposed for years on end.
    Dave Law
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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by omega1848 View Post
    Any news on the 29er frame availability?
    We're looking at November availability. If you're interested I'd recommend preordering from your local authorized Ritchey dealer. There's a lot of backorders already for them.
    Dave Law
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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by ritchey_dave View Post
    No, but I've yet to see something made unrideable because of it. That being said, I wouldn't leave them outside fully exposed for years on end.
    Thanks for the reply, what will happen to the bars over time? I'm trying to decide between the WCS and WCS carbon 10d bars but I'm concerned about the longevity of carbon.
    It's only a matter of time...

  30. #30
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    The main reason that most companies put UV inhibiters on their carbon products is to prevent discoloration. Our warranty department has seen zero returns because of outdoor exposure. Crashing, over clamping, garage roofs, that's another story. Just remember, carbon fiber is used on high performance airplanes and automobiles all the time and when used properly it's extremely reliable.
    Dave Law
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  31. #31
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    Hi Dave, I've got a 1984 or 1985 Team Comp (SN 0018), I've been riding it all these years, and still absolutely love it. One of my favorites of this bike was the wood piece that beautifully slid into the handlebars. Any chance you guys have any of these obscure pieces laying around? Decals would be cool too. Thanks!

  32. #32
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    Hello Dave, please explain a benefit of superlogic carbon over wcs. And restriction too. Thanks

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by LBVandal View Post
    Hi Dave, I've got a 1984 or 1985 Team Comp (SN 0018), I've been riding it all these years, and still absolutely love it. One of my favorites of this bike was the wood piece that beautifully slid into the handlebars. Any chance you guys have any of these obscure pieces laying around? Decals would be cool too. Thanks!

    I'm glad you're still enjoying that Ritchey. They really "don't make 'em like they used to".

    As far as the wood piece, we don't have any of those anymore. We do have a good amount of decals that I'd be happy to send your way if you let me know what you're looking for.
    Dave Law
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  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by jadis3 View Post
    Hello Dave, please explain a benefit of superlogic carbon over wcs. And restriction too. Thanks
    Good question. The big difference is the use of a process which combines an extremely high tensile strength carbon fiber with our proprietary resin. This creates a bar that's lighter and stronger than our WCS bar. The only restriction is, that in order to get the Superlogics as light as possible, they are not barend compatible.
    Dave Law
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  35. #35
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    Any of the 1984 Team Comp decals would be great. Darn on the wood piece, only bike I ever knew that had wood on it......

  36. #36
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    I just checked and we don't have anymore of the Comp decals. I have black, white and red generic decal sets, as well as the "Handmade by Tom Ritchey" decals.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  37. #37
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    BAB parts for custom frames

    Hi Dave-
    What is available for custom frame builders in the way of the piece parts needed to incorporate the Ritchey breakaway features into custom frames. I am specifically interested if the fittings are available for the larger (34.9mm) down tube size in steel (I have this setup on my Ritchey Ti 26" MTB BAB). Thanks,
    Dave

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by manzell View Post
    Hi Dave-
    What is available for custom frame builders in the way of the piece parts needed to incorporate the Ritchey breakaway features into custom frames. I am specifically interested if the fittings are available for the larger (34.9mm) down tube size in steel (I have this setup on my Ritchey Ti 26" MTB BAB). Thanks,
    Dave
    Yes, we have those fittings available to custom builders. Have them give us a call and we can set that up.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  39. #39
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    I have some questions about the your new 29er carbon wheels. I've read that they are tubeless compatible, Stan's tubeless compatible in one place, are the rims similar to Stan's Bead Socket Technology? Will they setup just as easy as Stan's rims do?
    Will these wheels be available in any other axle configuration other than QR's? The Syncros 29er wheels seem to be available in all axle configurations, other than being wider, are these basically the same rim as the Ritchey (tubeless compatibility)? And will the Syncros 29er carbon rims be available alone, so that they can be built up with any hub?
    RIDE MF RIDE,
    Scotto

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scotto View Post
    I have some questions about the your new 29er carbon wheels. I've read that they are tubeless compatible, Stan's tubeless compatible in one place, are the rims similar to Stan's Bead Socket Technology? Will they setup just as easy as Stan's rims do?
    Will these wheels be available in any other axle configuration other than QR's? The Syncros 29er wheels seem to be available in all axle configurations, other than being wider, are these basically the same rim as the Ritchey (tubeless compatibility)? And will the Syncros 29er carbon rims be available alone, so that they can be built up with any hub?
    I haven't used Stan's but helped set up the taped tubeless system that we will offer with these wheels. It was as easy as using the lightly adhesive tape to seal the drilled rim holes, punching through the tape at the stem hole, then installing the valve which seals to the rim with an internal and external rubber gasket. We were able to seal the wheel with a floor pump. The front will have a 15mm option; the rear will have a 142 x 12 option. We sell these as full wheels only.
    Dave Law
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  41. #41
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    Will there be the same axle options for the Ritchey wheels? Are the axles convertible, meaning can I switch between the 12X142 to 10X135? Any idea as to when the Syncros 29er carbon wheels will be available?
    RIDE MF RIDE,
    Scotto

  42. #42
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    Yes, they will be convertible. TBD on Syncros wheels.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  43. #43
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    Ritchey MTB Pedal servicing...

    Dave, question on pedals. I've got a pair of Ritchey MTB pedals from my 2001 Klein MTB. They've worked well, but are now starting to exhibit signs of wear. Play in the pedal. What is the serviceability of them? Is there a guide on how to take them apart & regrease? I'm accustom to doing it with Shimano pedals, just couldn't track down anything on this Ritchey MTB pedals. Can one replace bearings if necessary? Sorry I don't have any more specifics, any help u can offer to point me in the right direction would be much appreciated! Thanks

  44. #44
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    Glad to hear those pedals served you well. Unfortunately we no longer carry replacement parts for that pedal. Sorry, wish I could give you a better answer.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  45. #45
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    Dave, let me better ask the question. Forget replacement parts of my question. Is there an instruction guide you can send me on how to simply take apart & regrease the existing parts. Is there a guide on how to disassemble, regrease & reassemble? That's all it appears at first indication of what I need to do, if it is possible with those pedals. They were made to be disassembled and serviced/re-greased correct?
    Thank you,

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by swany91 View Post
    Dave, let me better ask the question. Forget replacement parts of my question. Is there an instruction guide you can send me on how to simply take apart & regrease the existing parts. Is there a guide on how to disassemble, regrease & reassemble? That's all it appears at first indication of what I need to do, if it is possible with those pedals. They were made to be disassembled and serviced/re-greased correct?
    Thank you,
    Sorry, we don't have any instruction guides on how to dissassemble, regrease, and reasemble those pedals. If and external regreasing doesn't work and you haven't already, I'd recommend having a bike shop take a look at what might be the problem, some of our older pedals can be a little tricky.
    Dave Law
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  47. #47
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    Hi Dave. I am interested in decals for an 85 Ascent (A5E00167). I work in a printing plant so even the art would be sufficient. ;-) Thanks.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmor_62 View Post
    Hi Dave. I am interested in decals for an 85 Ascent (A5E00167). I work in a printing plant so even the art would be sufficient. ;-) Thanks.
    Unfortunately we no longer have the decals, or artwork, for the Ascent available. However, I have some other Ritchey frame decals. PM me with your email address if you're interested and I can help you out with what we currently have.
    Dave Law
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  49. #49
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    Hi Dave,

    Just wondering when the carbon 29'er wheels were going to be available? Any idea on the weight of the wheelset?

    Also would love to buy some carbon flat bars but can't find them wide enough on your website. You supply them in a 680mm width on the Scott RC's but I can't buy them direct?

    Thanks!

  50. #50
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    The Ritchey Vantage II Carbon 29er wheels are scheduled for May. The front wheel will be around 650 grams and the rear wheel will be 895 grams.

    The 680 width flat carbon bars are there they're just a little hidden.
    Ritchey Logic - Mountain - Bars - WCS Carbon Flat 9D - UD Carbon
    Once on the page there's a pull down option where you can choose which a model.
    Dave Law
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  51. #51
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    Thanks for the reply! Any idea what msrp will be for the wheelset?

  52. #52
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    No problem! MSRP will be $1,999.95.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  53. #53
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    Proper torque for a Ritchey Breakaway Ti cross- What should the seat cluster frame bolt and the seat post binder bolt be torqued to? If it matters, I am running a Ritchey WCS carbon fiber one bolt seatpost. Thanks.

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnradsem View Post
    Proper torque for a Ritchey Breakaway Ti cross- What should the seat cluster frame bolt and the seat post binder bolt be torqued to? If it matters, I am running a Ritchey WCS carbon fiber one bolt seatpost. Thanks.
    Keep it between 5-8 Nm and you should be good.
    Dave Law
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  55. #55
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    Hi Dave -

    I found a Ritchey frame and fork that has "P 0188" serial number. It's white. I haven't been able to find a serial number like this (or a white Comp or P23) in any of the databases or old catalogs. The sticker indicates Logic Prestige tubing, and it has another sticker that says World Champions 89-91-92. So I'm guessing it's a 93 or 94? Any idea how I would tell the year? Is it a Tom Ritchey-worked frame or full-on import?

    Thanks!
    Last edited by treethumper; 02-23-2012 at 07:39 AM.

  56. #56
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    Unfortunately we here at Ritchey were really bad about keeping old catalogs and records of that stuff. Your best bet would be to talk to the folks at oldmountainbikes.com or First Flight Bicycles.
    Dave Law
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    Hey dave,
    I have a 110mm Ritchey comp stem on my 29er, and due to my size (5'4")' it is tad too long. I was wondering why there is no short one like 40 to 50mm comp in the market. would the company makes one? I have seen other companies making one, but rather to stay with Ritchey ( I have stem,bar, and seat post made by Ritchey).

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    Quote Originally Posted by memi View Post
    Hey dave,
    I have a 110mm Ritchey comp stem on my 29er, and due to my size (5'4")' it is tad too long. I was wondering why there is no short one like 40 to 50mm comp in the market. would the company makes one? I have seen other companies making one, but rather to stay with Ritchey ( I have stem,bar, and seat post made by Ritchey).
    I wish we could produce every size like that across the board. Unfortunately, as a business, we have to look at the sizes that the majority of people need. And, up until recently with the rising popularity of the 29er, sizes between 80 and 130mm was more than adequate. People needing much larger or smaller would move up or down a size frame accordingly. However, as you've obviously noticed, 29ers change that a bit, especially if you're 5'4".

    We have some other options that could work for you and get you in a similar position as putting a 50mm stem on, but as I always say, when dealing with fit and changing around component angles and sizes, it's best to consult a professional at a bike shop or bike fit studio.

    That said, you'd mentioned that you have a 110mm now, and it's only a tad too long. Going from a 110 to a 50 or 40mm stem is not only a drastic change in position, but also in how your bike will ride. If it only feels a little off currently, then maybe you only need a small change like a 90 or 80mm stem (which we make in a Comp level). Some shops will let you try out a size or two before you buy. It's worth taking advantage of if they offer it.

    Fit is a complicated beast, good luck.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  59. #59
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    Hey Dave!

    I'm looking at Ritchey Superlogic MTB clincher wheels. Very nice, light and even cheap! Two questions about them:

    1. They are not officialy tubeless ready, but it seems that tubeless conversion is done very easy. Am I right?

    2. Is rear hub convertible to anything else than 135x9? If I'm not mistaken, those are DT Swiss hubs, and all DT Swiss hubs are convertible to different axles, except DT180/190.
    ~ Too weird to live, too rare to die ~

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    Hi there,, quick question to the P-29 frame:

    Anyone know how Ritchey has measured the 70 degree head tube angle?
    Which fork length was been used?
    I assume 100mm, but compressed with sag (around??? 20mm?) or not?

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    Gentle ping to @ritchey_dave regarding the measured geometrie of the P-29:
    Would be great to know which fork height axle-crown was being used for the geometry chart?
    In addition which chain lines does the P-29 frame support? 46/48/50mm?

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    P-29er

    Wondering if there is any update as to when these frames will make it to Australian shores? Had it on order for a while now and that dream I had of having it under the christmas tree is long gone. Can't wait to get the big wheels rolling but it's a bit of a challenge without the frame.

    Cheers

  63. #63
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    Ritchey_Dave, how do I pull a good shot of espresso?

    fc

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    Quote Originally Posted by evil zlayo View Post
    Hey Dave!

    I'm looking at Ritchey Superlogic MTB clincher wheels. Very nice, light and even cheap! Two questions about them:

    1. They are not officialy tubeless ready, but it seems that tubeless conversion is done very easy. Am I right?

    2. Is rear hub convertible to anything else than 135x9? If I'm not mistaken, those are DT Swiss hubs, and all DT Swiss hubs are convertible to different axles, except DT180/190.
    1. Yeah, they're not officially tubeless ready but with something like a Stan's kit they can easily be converted.

    2. I hear there is a 142x12 conversion kit available to us to produce, however we currently don't. DT Swiss might make one that works but I don't know for sure.
    Dave Law
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    Quote Originally Posted by omega1848 View Post
    Hi there,, quick question to the P-29 frame:

    Anyone know how Ritchey has measured the 70 degree head tube angle?
    Which fork length was been used?
    I assume 100mm, but compressed with sag (around??? 20mm?) or not?
    The 70 degrees refers to the the angle of the headtube in relation to the floor with a 100mm travel fork installed. No sag or compression taken into consideration.
    Dave Law
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dean Learner View Post
    Wondering if there is any update as to when these frames will make it to Australian shores? Had it on order for a while now and that dream I had of having it under the christmas tree is long gone. Can't wait to get the big wheels rolling but it's a bit of a challenge without the frame.

    Cheers
    Your local bike shop should be able to special order one from our Australian distributor.

    Dirt Works Australia
    Phone: + 61 2 9679 8400
    Fax: + 61 2 9679 8411
    URL: Dirt Works Australia - ride with us
    Email: ritchey@dirtworks.com.au

    You can contact them to find out where you might get one too.
    Dave Law
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    Quote Originally Posted by francois View Post
    Ritchey_Dave, how do I pull a good shot of espresso?

    fc
    Well, I only know how to pull a perfect espresso shot. And that's really more of a gift than a skill.
    Dave Law
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    Thanks for the fast response Dave but the frame has already been ordered (Sept 2011). Just wondering when you expect them to ship as you stated they'd ship in a few weeks a few weeks ago.

    I hear the delay is because rather than manufacture them in Taiwan you now have Tom madly welding away to get them completed and you can't rush perfection

    As for the perfect espresso shot a bit of Chris King Precision helps there (but seeing as I don't have 10 posts yet I can't post the link - vimeo video 28895374)



    Quote Originally Posted by ritchey_dave View Post
    Your local bike shop should be able to special order one from our Australian distributor.

    You can contact them to find out where you might get one too.

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    Torque for WCS carbon one bolt seat post

    Quote Originally Posted by mtnradsem View Post
    Proper torque for a Ritchey Breakaway Ti cross- What should the seat cluster frame bolt and the seat post binder bolt be torqued to? If it matters, I am running a Ritchey WCS carbon fiber one bolt seatpost. Thanks.
    By the way, what is the proper torque on the one bolt WCS carbon seatpost saddle clamping mechanism? Thanks.

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    Never mind, I see the clamp is marked with 12 nm.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dean Learner View Post
    Thanks for the fast response Dave but the frame has already been ordered (Sept 2011). Just wondering when you expect them to ship as you stated they'd ship in a few weeks a few weeks ago.

    I hear the delay is because rather than manufacture them in Taiwan you now have Tom madly welding away to get them completed and you can't rush perfection

    As for the perfect espresso shot a bit of Chris King Precision helps there (but seeing as I don't have 10 posts yet I can't post the link - vimeo video 28895374)
    That's one of my favorite Chris King components! We totally have one here and they do actually make an espresso shot taste better, don't ask me how.

    As far as your frame, yes, Tom is tirelessly welding away to try and keep up with demand

    Actually, it's hard to say what's going on with your order from our US office over here as our European office deals with that part of the world. If you feeling like you're getting the run around by your shop I'd check with the distributor.
    Dave Law
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    hey ritchety_dave, thanks for the heads up on excelsports online dealer - they were great and my P29 will be in my garage very soon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by redvtwin2 View Post
    hey ritchety_dave, thanks for the heads up on excelsports online dealer - they were great and my P29 will be in my garage very soon.
    Awesome! You'll love it, can't wait to hear your feedback!
    Dave Law
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  74. #74
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    Thanks Dave,

    Contacted DirtWorks previously but thought I'd go straight to the source first since I saw you on the forum.

    Cheers

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dean Learner View Post
    Thanks Dave,

    Contacted DirtWorks previously but thought I'd go straight to the source first since I saw you on the forum.

    Cheers
    I would be the source for the US, Dirt Works is your guy for Australia though.
    Dave Law
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    New question here. Stem length on P-29er

    I just bought a 21"in P-29er frame. It's living in a cardboard box inside a bike shop until I can scrap money together to make it role. I'm researching stem length and for my new steed and need to get it right the first time because I don't have enough money to buy the wrong part. My old bike was an old 26in wheeled Large Cannondale with a top tube of 25in and stem of 120mm w/ 10degree rise. The setup was nice for my long torso and arms and i would like to get close to that same feel on the bike. I was thinking of going with a 100mm stem but worry that may feel too cramped. Any ideas on what my stem length should be on this P-29er without having to go through the trial and error?

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by antibody View Post
    I just bought a 21"in P-29er frame. It's living in a cardboard box inside a bike shop until I can scrap money together to make it role. I'm researching stem length and for my new steed and need to get it right the first time because I don't have enough money to buy the wrong part. My old bike was an old 26in wheeled Large Cannondale with a top tube of 25in and stem of 120mm w/ 10degree rise. The setup was nice for my long torso and arms and i would like to get close to that same feel on the bike. I was thinking of going with a 100mm stem but worry that may feel too cramped. Any ideas on what my stem length should be on this P-29er without having to go through the trial and error?
    If you're looking for the same position, just make measurements of your current setup and apply them to your new frame. If doesn't feel cramped on your 26" it shouldn't feel cramped on the P-29er. Here's a great article on how to measure your current position:
    www.cyclingnews.com news and analysis
    Dave Law
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    one for the rep.

    Hi RitcheyDave, weight question, I had my LBS order me up a WCS Alloy 1-bolt 27.2/350 seatpost, when it came in I did a comparison on my current post. I was surprised to see the WCS came in actually at 230grams, when the site made claims to 195....I really liked the post but the weight savings I was hoping for wernt there....any thoughts?
    Thank You.

  79. #79
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    We are in the process of updating some of our weights to reflect current production. The 195g weight you saw reflects the seatpost weight prior to the latest CEN test standard, which forced all cycling component manufacturers to slightly increase weights of many handlebars and seatposts. Rest assured your post is still very light compared to anything else on the market within that price range. Sorry for the confusion.
    Dave Law
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    Thanks Dave.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ritchey_dave View Post
    We are in the process of updating some of our weights to reflect current production. The 195g weight you saw reflects the seatpost weight prior to the latest CEN test standard, which forced all cycling component manufacturers to slightly increase weights of many handlebars and seatposts. Rest assured your post is still very light compared to anything else on the market within that price range. Sorry for the confusion.
    Thanks RD.....

  82. #82
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    Dave,

    Two questions. 1) P-29er BB is 68mm I assume? and 2) when is the next ebay auction for one of the 40 frames Tom is building?

    Thanks

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    We the people ... Name that bike

    Oops wrong thread not sure how to delete. sorry
    Last edited by kevner6868; 03-27-2012 at 05:02 PM. Reason: Wrong thread

  84. #84
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    Do the Pro Ergo bar ends and the WCS bar ends have the same inward angle?

    I'm trying to get some bar ends that will work with ergon gp1 grips and the wcs have the perfect angle for me but will not fit well against the grips. It appears that the Pro version has a flat surface before the bend starts.

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by mwv View Post
    Do the Pro Ergo bar ends and the WCS bar ends have the same inward angle?

    I'm trying to get some bar ends that will work with ergon gp1 grips and the wcs have the perfect angle for me but will not fit well against the grips. It appears that the Pro version has a flat surface before the bend starts.

    If you're talking about the, now discounted, WCS Ergo, then yes, they both have the same inward bend of 37 degrees. If you're talking about just our standard WCS barends then, no, those have no inward bend at all.
    Dave Law
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    Dave,

    I heard that Ritchey has a matching rigid fork for the P-29er, but I don't see any info on the site. Is this true? What can you tell me about it? I'm interested in color, material, geometry, etc.

    Cheers.

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    Hi Dave,

    I have been waiting for a set of flat 6800mm 9d bars for like 6 weeks through my local dealer. Your website shows available....are they? Part # 30-376-019

    Thanks,

    Mark

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mackave View Post
    Dave,

    I heard that Ritchey has a matching rigid fork for the P-29er, but I don't see any info on the site. Is this true? What can you tell me about it? I'm interested in color, material, geometry, etc.

    Cheers.
    We currently make a Pro Carbon 29er fork which is available either through your local bike shop or our website.

    More exciting though is our new WCS Carbon 29er Fork we've been working on.

    •Full Carbon Construction
    •Full Carbon Dropouts & Disc Brake Tab
    •POST mount disc brake
    •axle-crown: 470mm
    •Rake: 45mm
    •Matte UD Carbon Finish
    This beauty will most likely weigh in at a scant 570g.

    Should be available in August.
    Dave Law
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark439 View Post
    Hi Dave,

    I have been waiting for a set of flat 6800mm 9d bars for like 6 weeks through my local dealer. Your website shows available....are they? Part # 30-376-019

    Thanks,

    Mark
    Sorry to hear that. Yeah, our website availability isn't always the most accurate. We're currently out of those bars. They should be available middle of the month. Sorry for the wait, it'll be worth it though.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

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    HI Ritchey Dave,
    The Ritchey P29 mentions the steel as "Ritchey Logic II steel"...do you know anything more about this steel and how it compares to Reynolds 853?

    Thanks for your insight!

  91. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by red bank rider View Post
    HI Ritchey Dave,
    The Ritchey P29 mentions the steel as "Ritchey Logic II steel"...do you know anything more about this steel and how it compares to Reynolds 853?

    Thanks for your insight!
    Reynolds 853 is an air-hardened, triple butted steel alloy with impressive strength properties. It’s a high quality tubeset but unfortunately somewhat limited in diameters, wall thicknesses and butting profiles, which in some applications and frame sizes, can limit a framebuilder’s design options when seeking to optimize stiffness and weight.

    For the P-29 and SwissCross, we considered several standard tubing suppliers like Reynolds but instead chose to develop our own heat-treated, seamless triple-butted steel alloy to the precise wall thicknesses, tubing diameters and butting profiles, specifically designed for TIG welding. Tom Ritchey has a long history of tubing development and he found this was the best way to achieve the ride quality, weight, durability and price he intended for these frames.
    Dave Law
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  92. #92
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    Hi Dave,

    Seeing as no one has asked any questions about the p29 for a while. Here's a couple more.

    Wondering about recommended torque setting for the sliders and the seatpost clamp. Couldn't find any info in the manual (pretty generic document that one).

    Thanks in advance

    Getting close to finished (finally)

    Nearly There

    Yes I'm a tease

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dean Learner View Post
    Hi Dave,

    Seeing as no one has asked any questions about the p29 for a while. Here's a couple more.

    Wondering about recommended torque setting for the sliders and the seatpost clamp. Couldn't find any info in the manual (pretty generic document that one).

    Thanks in advance

    Getting close to finished (finally)

    Nearly There

    Yes I'm a tease
    15Nm for the slider dropouts and 5Nm for the seatpost clamp.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

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    Rust on my P29er

    Hi Ritchey Dave,

    I've been enjoying my P29er for over a month now, and have been delighted on the ability to move the rear wheel with the slideable rear dropouts. I've been adjusting the rear wheel it to fit my ride and my preference is to have it as far forward as possible so as to have the shortest wheelbase. This also has resulted in removal of the slider bolt and nut as I have no need for it to keep my rear wheel properly aligned since I have it as far forward as possible.

    2 issues have developed with my new rear wheel placement:
    1) the sliding area has developed rust from the allen bolt placement:
    Ritchey Rep here to answer all you questions-img_0261.jpg
    Ritchey Rep here to answer all you questions-img_0263.jpg
    2) The threading for the alignment bolt has rusted since I've removed the bolt so I can flush the rear wheel as far forward as possible:
    Ritchey Rep here to answer all you questions-img_0265.jpg

    Do you have any recommendations on how to fix this or prevent further rusting?
    Is my frame defective in that the sliding tange dropout area should have had some level of rustproofing so that you can adjust the rear wheel allen bolts without having to worry about rust from such a simple adjustment?

    Thanks in advance for your help.

  95. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by red bank rider View Post
    Hi Ritchey Dave,

    I've been enjoying my P29er for over a month now, and have been delighted on the ability to move the rear wheel with the slideable rear dropouts. I've been adjusting the rear wheel it to fit my ride and my preference is to have it as far forward as possible so as to have the shortest wheelbase. This also has resulted in removal of the slider bolt and nut as I have no need for it to keep my rear wheel properly aligned since I have it as far forward as possible.

    2 issues have developed with my new rear wheel placement:
    1) the sliding area has developed rust from the allen bolt placement:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    2) The threading for the alignment bolt has rusted since I've removed the bolt so I can flush the rear wheel as far forward as possible:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Do you have any recommendations on how to fix this or prevent further rusting?
    Is my frame defective in that the sliding tange dropout area should have had some level of rustproofing so that you can adjust the rear wheel allen bolts without having to worry about rust from such a simple adjustment?

    Thanks in advance for your help.
    Steel will unfortunately do that when exposed to moisture. You can lightly sand off the rust that's there, then paint a thin layer of clear nail polish over the exposed raw steel areas to protect it from future corrosion.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

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    Dave,
    Could you be any help in helping me identify my old Ritchey frame? I bought it at least 15 years ago (used) and when I bought it I had the frame stripped and repainted and put some Ritchey stickers on it that were acquired by a coworker at the time, but they obviously weren't correct for the frame.

    Anyway, the SN is 3A972. It appears to be tig welded except for the seatstay junction, which appears to be fillet brazed. Also, the frame has dual water bottle braze on on the downtube, and none on the seat tube, making me think that it might be mid '80's vintage. It also has super long chainstays at 17-1/8."

    Any help you could provide would be much appreciated.

    Thanks

  97. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by bucktruck View Post
    Dave,
    Could you be any help in helping me identify my old Ritchey frame? I bought it at least 15 years ago (used) and when I bought it I had the frame stripped and repainted and put some Ritchey stickers on it that were acquired by a coworker at the time, but they obviously weren't correct for the frame.

    Anyway, the SN is 3A972. It appears to be tig welded except for the seatstay junction, which appears to be fillet brazed. Also, the frame has dual water bottle braze on on the downtube, and none on the seat tube, making me think that it might be mid '80's vintage. It also has super long chainstays at 17-1/8."

    Any help you could provide would be much appreciated.

    Thanks
    Unfortunately all that stuff is before my time here. Your best bet is to hunt around this site, there's some real experts on old Ritchey frames that frequent this site. Also, check out Old Mountain Bikes, it's probably the most detailed cataloging of all things Ritchey. Hope this helps.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

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    Dave,
    Thanks for the link; I can't believe I've never come across that site before!



    Edit: after a bit of research, it turns out that my bike is a 1989 Ascent Comp. Thanks again!

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    2012 Road Logic

    Hi Dave
    Awesome having this resource to answer question!
    Sorry but a roadie question first.
    Am really keen on the new road logic frame set but wondering about size. I'm 189cm tall and typically ride a 58cm frame but see the road logic comes in either 57 or 59. Wondering what frame size I should go for and whether there's a pic of a 59cm road logic built up??
    Also keen to get a p275 (they look amazing), what frame size would you recommend.
    Thanks
    JT

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    Dave,

    I have the same unanswered question than /ritchey-design/syncros-fl-hub-15mm-9mm-668343.html : How can I convert the syncros FL hub (FR) in 15mm to a 9mm ?

    I found a link to SYNCROS FL hub adapter - 15mm to standard on ritchey (dot) ch. Is it the right composant ? Will it be avalaible soon ? If not, can I use another adapter ?

    Thanks,
    red

    1st post so no links...

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