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  1. #76
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    New question here. Stem length on P-29er

    I just bought a 21"in P-29er frame. It's living in a cardboard box inside a bike shop until I can scrap money together to make it role. I'm researching stem length and for my new steed and need to get it right the first time because I don't have enough money to buy the wrong part. My old bike was an old 26in wheeled Large Cannondale with a top tube of 25in and stem of 120mm w/ 10degree rise. The setup was nice for my long torso and arms and i would like to get close to that same feel on the bike. I was thinking of going with a 100mm stem but worry that may feel too cramped. Any ideas on what my stem length should be on this P-29er without having to go through the trial and error?

  2. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by antibody View Post
    I just bought a 21"in P-29er frame. It's living in a cardboard box inside a bike shop until I can scrap money together to make it role. I'm researching stem length and for my new steed and need to get it right the first time because I don't have enough money to buy the wrong part. My old bike was an old 26in wheeled Large Cannondale with a top tube of 25in and stem of 120mm w/ 10degree rise. The setup was nice for my long torso and arms and i would like to get close to that same feel on the bike. I was thinking of going with a 100mm stem but worry that may feel too cramped. Any ideas on what my stem length should be on this P-29er without having to go through the trial and error?
    If you're looking for the same position, just make measurements of your current setup and apply them to your new frame. If doesn't feel cramped on your 26" it shouldn't feel cramped on the P-29er. Here's a great article on how to measure your current position:
    www.cyclingnews.com news and analysis
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  3. #78
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    one for the rep.

    Hi RitcheyDave, weight question, I had my LBS order me up a WCS Alloy 1-bolt 27.2/350 seatpost, when it came in I did a comparison on my current post. I was surprised to see the WCS came in actually at 230grams, when the site made claims to 195....I really liked the post but the weight savings I was hoping for wernt there....any thoughts?
    Thank You.

  4. #79
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    We are in the process of updating some of our weights to reflect current production. The 195g weight you saw reflects the seatpost weight prior to the latest CEN test standard, which forced all cycling component manufacturers to slightly increase weights of many handlebars and seatposts. Rest assured your post is still very light compared to anything else on the market within that price range. Sorry for the confusion.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  5. #80
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    Thanks Dave.

  6. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by ritchey_dave View Post
    We are in the process of updating some of our weights to reflect current production. The 195g weight you saw reflects the seatpost weight prior to the latest CEN test standard, which forced all cycling component manufacturers to slightly increase weights of many handlebars and seatposts. Rest assured your post is still very light compared to anything else on the market within that price range. Sorry for the confusion.
    Thanks RD.....

  7. #82
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    Dave,

    Two questions. 1) P-29er BB is 68mm I assume? and 2) when is the next ebay auction for one of the 40 frames Tom is building?

    Thanks

  8. #83
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    We the people ... Name that bike

    Oops wrong thread not sure how to delete. sorry
    Last edited by kevner6868; 03-27-2012 at 05:02 PM. Reason: Wrong thread

  9. #84
    mwv
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    Do the Pro Ergo bar ends and the WCS bar ends have the same inward angle?

    I'm trying to get some bar ends that will work with ergon gp1 grips and the wcs have the perfect angle for me but will not fit well against the grips. It appears that the Pro version has a flat surface before the bend starts.

  10. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by mwv View Post
    Do the Pro Ergo bar ends and the WCS bar ends have the same inward angle?

    I'm trying to get some bar ends that will work with ergon gp1 grips and the wcs have the perfect angle for me but will not fit well against the grips. It appears that the Pro version has a flat surface before the bend starts.

    If you're talking about the, now discounted, WCS Ergo, then yes, they both have the same inward bend of 37 degrees. If you're talking about just our standard WCS barends then, no, those have no inward bend at all.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  11. #86
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    Dave,

    I heard that Ritchey has a matching rigid fork for the P-29er, but I don't see any info on the site. Is this true? What can you tell me about it? I'm interested in color, material, geometry, etc.

    Cheers.

  12. #87
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    Hi Dave,

    I have been waiting for a set of flat 6800mm 9d bars for like 6 weeks through my local dealer. Your website shows available....are they? Part # 30-376-019

    Thanks,

    Mark

  13. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mackave View Post
    Dave,

    I heard that Ritchey has a matching rigid fork for the P-29er, but I don't see any info on the site. Is this true? What can you tell me about it? I'm interested in color, material, geometry, etc.

    Cheers.
    We currently make a Pro Carbon 29er fork which is available either through your local bike shop or our website.

    More exciting though is our new WCS Carbon 29er Fork we've been working on.

    •Full Carbon Construction
    •Full Carbon Dropouts & Disc Brake Tab
    •POST mount disc brake
    •axle-crown: 470mm
    •Rake: 45mm
    •Matte UD Carbon Finish
    This beauty will most likely weigh in at a scant 570g.

    Should be available in August.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  14. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark439 View Post
    Hi Dave,

    I have been waiting for a set of flat 6800mm 9d bars for like 6 weeks through my local dealer. Your website shows available....are they? Part # 30-376-019

    Thanks,

    Mark
    Sorry to hear that. Yeah, our website availability isn't always the most accurate. We're currently out of those bars. They should be available middle of the month. Sorry for the wait, it'll be worth it though.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  15. #90
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    HI Ritchey Dave,
    The Ritchey P29 mentions the steel as "Ritchey Logic II steel"...do you know anything more about this steel and how it compares to Reynolds 853?

    Thanks for your insight!

  16. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by red bank rider View Post
    HI Ritchey Dave,
    The Ritchey P29 mentions the steel as "Ritchey Logic II steel"...do you know anything more about this steel and how it compares to Reynolds 853?

    Thanks for your insight!
    Reynolds 853 is an air-hardened, triple butted steel alloy with impressive strength properties. It’s a high quality tubeset but unfortunately somewhat limited in diameters, wall thicknesses and butting profiles, which in some applications and frame sizes, can limit a framebuilder’s design options when seeking to optimize stiffness and weight.

    For the P-29 and SwissCross, we considered several standard tubing suppliers like Reynolds but instead chose to develop our own heat-treated, seamless triple-butted steel alloy to the precise wall thicknesses, tubing diameters and butting profiles, specifically designed for TIG welding. Tom Ritchey has a long history of tubing development and he found this was the best way to achieve the ride quality, weight, durability and price he intended for these frames.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  17. #92
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    Hi Dave,

    Seeing as no one has asked any questions about the p29 for a while. Here's a couple more.

    Wondering about recommended torque setting for the sliders and the seatpost clamp. Couldn't find any info in the manual (pretty generic document that one).

    Thanks in advance

    Getting close to finished (finally)

    Nearly There

    Yes I'm a tease

  18. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dean Learner View Post
    Hi Dave,

    Seeing as no one has asked any questions about the p29 for a while. Here's a couple more.

    Wondering about recommended torque setting for the sliders and the seatpost clamp. Couldn't find any info in the manual (pretty generic document that one).

    Thanks in advance

    Getting close to finished (finally)

    Nearly There

    Yes I'm a tease
    15Nm for the slider dropouts and 5Nm for the seatpost clamp.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  19. #94
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    Rust on my P29er

    Hi Ritchey Dave,

    I've been enjoying my P29er for over a month now, and have been delighted on the ability to move the rear wheel with the slideable rear dropouts. I've been adjusting the rear wheel it to fit my ride and my preference is to have it as far forward as possible so as to have the shortest wheelbase. This also has resulted in removal of the slider bolt and nut as I have no need for it to keep my rear wheel properly aligned since I have it as far forward as possible.

    2 issues have developed with my new rear wheel placement:
    1) the sliding area has developed rust from the allen bolt placement:
    Ritchey Rep here to answer all you questions-img_0261.jpg
    Ritchey Rep here to answer all you questions-img_0263.jpg
    2) The threading for the alignment bolt has rusted since I've removed the bolt so I can flush the rear wheel as far forward as possible:
    Ritchey Rep here to answer all you questions-img_0265.jpg

    Do you have any recommendations on how to fix this or prevent further rusting?
    Is my frame defective in that the sliding tange dropout area should have had some level of rustproofing so that you can adjust the rear wheel allen bolts without having to worry about rust from such a simple adjustment?

    Thanks in advance for your help.

  20. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by red bank rider View Post
    Hi Ritchey Dave,

    I've been enjoying my P29er for over a month now, and have been delighted on the ability to move the rear wheel with the slideable rear dropouts. I've been adjusting the rear wheel it to fit my ride and my preference is to have it as far forward as possible so as to have the shortest wheelbase. This also has resulted in removal of the slider bolt and nut as I have no need for it to keep my rear wheel properly aligned since I have it as far forward as possible.

    2 issues have developed with my new rear wheel placement:
    1) the sliding area has developed rust from the allen bolt placement:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    2) The threading for the alignment bolt has rusted since I've removed the bolt so I can flush the rear wheel as far forward as possible:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Do you have any recommendations on how to fix this or prevent further rusting?
    Is my frame defective in that the sliding tange dropout area should have had some level of rustproofing so that you can adjust the rear wheel allen bolts without having to worry about rust from such a simple adjustment?

    Thanks in advance for your help.
    Steel will unfortunately do that when exposed to moisture. You can lightly sand off the rust that's there, then paint a thin layer of clear nail polish over the exposed raw steel areas to protect it from future corrosion.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  21. #96
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    Dave,
    Could you be any help in helping me identify my old Ritchey frame? I bought it at least 15 years ago (used) and when I bought it I had the frame stripped and repainted and put some Ritchey stickers on it that were acquired by a coworker at the time, but they obviously weren't correct for the frame.

    Anyway, the SN is 3A972. It appears to be tig welded except for the seatstay junction, which appears to be fillet brazed. Also, the frame has dual water bottle braze on on the downtube, and none on the seat tube, making me think that it might be mid '80's vintage. It also has super long chainstays at 17-1/8."

    Any help you could provide would be much appreciated.

    Thanks

  22. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by bucktruck View Post
    Dave,
    Could you be any help in helping me identify my old Ritchey frame? I bought it at least 15 years ago (used) and when I bought it I had the frame stripped and repainted and put some Ritchey stickers on it that were acquired by a coworker at the time, but they obviously weren't correct for the frame.

    Anyway, the SN is 3A972. It appears to be tig welded except for the seatstay junction, which appears to be fillet brazed. Also, the frame has dual water bottle braze on on the downtube, and none on the seat tube, making me think that it might be mid '80's vintage. It also has super long chainstays at 17-1/8."

    Any help you could provide would be much appreciated.

    Thanks
    Unfortunately all that stuff is before my time here. Your best bet is to hunt around this site, there's some real experts on old Ritchey frames that frequent this site. Also, check out Old Mountain Bikes, it's probably the most detailed cataloging of all things Ritchey. Hope this helps.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  23. #98
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    Dave,
    Thanks for the link; I can't believe I've never come across that site before!



    Edit: after a bit of research, it turns out that my bike is a 1989 Ascent Comp. Thanks again!

  24. #99
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    2012 Road Logic

    Hi Dave
    Awesome having this resource to answer question!
    Sorry but a roadie question first.
    Am really keen on the new road logic frame set but wondering about size. I'm 189cm tall and typically ride a 58cm frame but see the road logic comes in either 57 or 59. Wondering what frame size I should go for and whether there's a pic of a 59cm road logic built up??
    Also keen to get a p275 (they look amazing), what frame size would you recommend.
    Thanks
    JT

  25. #100
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    Dave,

    I have the same unanswered question than /ritchey-design/syncros-fl-hub-15mm-9mm-668343.html : How can I convert the syncros FL hub (FR) in 15mm to a 9mm ?

    I found a link to SYNCROS FL hub adapter - 15mm to standard on ritchey (dot) ch. Is it the right composant ? Will it be avalaible soon ? If not, can I use another adapter ?

    Thanks,
    red

    1st post so no links...

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