Results 1 to 25 of 25
  1. #1
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,879

    The Ritchey project is done.

    Well it is not period correct but it isn't too far off. I opted to use xt st-m0950 8 speed shifters. Of course my rear hub won't take an 8 speed cassette so I just used a 7 speed and set the limit screw. To my suprise it works perfectly. Shifts are nice and smooth. The DX wheels are off a newer bike and the King headset is new. I must say I am pleased with the way it turned out. It rides great, it is very light and it is very nimble. The maiden dirt voyage is tomorrow. Here are the spec's:

    Frame: 1988 Ritchey Ultra
    Shifters: Shimano XT st-m0950
    Front brake: BR-m730
    Rear brake: XT U-Brake
    Front Derailler: XT FD-M730
    Rear Derailler: XT RD-M730
    Wheels: Matrix Single Track Comp on DX Hb-650 Hubs
    Skewers: Odessey?
    Seatpost: Strong Japan
    Saddle: Selle Italia Flite Titanium
    Cranks: XT FC-M737
    Headset: King
    Tires: Panaracer Timbuk II
    Pedals: XT PD-M730
    Handlebar: Scott AT-2 LF
    Cables: Gore Ride On
    Cranks Bolts: Adventure Components.
    IMG_0937.JPG

    IMG_1931.JPG

    IMG_1938.JPG

    IMG_1934.JPG

    IMG_1939.JPG

    IMG_1940.JPG

    IMG_1941.JPG

    IMG_1944.JPG

    IMG_1945.JPG
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  2. #2
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,879
    Last edited by sandmangts; 08-22-2009 at 03:56 PM.
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,640
    Sharp!

    -Schmitty-

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sho220's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    1,057
    Very nice looking build. I believe the skewers are Odyssey Svelte...not super light but solid and easy to open/close...

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yo-Nate-y's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    2,702
    I see you have two pie-plates

    Mis-mash it may be, but I like the Ultra. The bars....not so much. But I dig the skewers!
    Somec is like the digital Zunow
    And this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD5h3y0a9AU

  6. #6
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,879
    If anyone needs decals open this PDF and fill out the order form. Then just fax it to Ritchey. The number is in the PDF.

    RITCHEY DECALS.pdf
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  7. #7
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,879
    Quote Originally Posted by yo-Nate-y
    I see you have two pie-plates

    Mis-mash it may be, but I like the Ultra. The bars....not so much. But I dig the skewers!
    I have the original wheels but they need service. They still look great so eventually they may go back on. I figured I would give the bar a try but it is a bit strange to me. I have the Titec that came on it but I lost the shims. When I find them it may go back on with the bar ends. I also have the original spec xt thumbies and brake levers and cranks so if I ever decide to go the purist route I am set.
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yo-Nate-y's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    2,702
    I know those bars well.......my first 'real' mtb purchase was the Scoot bars that wrapped all the way round with an aero thumbtucker in the middle. Yipes. With the early curve I always found them a bit too narrow.
    Somec is like the digital Zunow
    And this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD5h3y0a9AU

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    883
    Nice looking bike! I use that same crankset on my drop-bar 29er (as a 1x9) and although they are newer mid 90's vintage they are great performing cranks and are really ultra-light (arms alone 475 grams on weight weenies) without being flexy. At any rate enjoy & congrats on a nice build!

    JR

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,640
    Quote Originally Posted by N10S
    Nice looking bike! I use that same crankset on my drop-bar 29er (as a 1x9) and although they are newer mid 90's vintage they are great performing cranks and are really ultra-light (arms alone 475 grams on weight weenies) without being flexy. At any rate enjoy & congrats on a nice build!

    JR
    They are actually prone to snapping on the drive side right at the spider transition.

    IMHO, that vintage xt was the worst ever....


    -Schmitty-

  11. #11
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,879
    Quote Originally Posted by Schmitty
    They are actually prone to snapping on the drive side right at the spider transition.

    IMHO, that vintage xt was the worst ever....


    -Schmitty-
    Well thats not good. I am a big guy too so it looks like my M730 cranks will go back on there if I can ever find them. Heading out for a ride right now though so I hope they last at least that long.
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  12. #12
    artistic...
    Reputation: colker1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    6,558
    Quote Originally Posted by sandmangts
    Well thats not good. I am a big guy too so it looks like my M730 cranks will go back on there if I can ever find them. Heading out for a ride right now though so I hope they last at least that long.
    i have an LX crank same vintage on a bike and it's been 13 yrs of straight on abuse.
    want: Ibis ti handlebar. suntour 31.8 front derr. bottom pull

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    883
    Quote Originally Posted by Schmitty
    They are actually prone to snapping on the drive side right at the spider transition.

    IMHO, that vintage xt was the worst ever....


    -Schmitty-
    I appreciate the info, but in all these years of riding have never heard that. I have had four bikes fitted with the 737's over the years and never had an issue of any sort. At 175-180 lbs I am not a lightweight, but not over 200 lbs either. So I have had nothing but good luck with those cranks and that's what fueled my comments. I certainly listen to all feedback so if they are known to "snap"at the spider then that's a concern. I am sure I will be thinking about it every time I am powering up a hill now! .

  14. #14
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,879
    I am at 192 lbs and I do have a tendency to break things, usually seatpost bolts and chains. Todays maiden ride was a learning experience. The 7 speed shifts very nice but I am used to sram x.9 so I kept missing shifts. I was able to climb everything considerably faster than any other bike I own. The Timbuk tires have good bite in the corners and they did not slip much when I had to get out of the saddle on climbs. The bars are nice because you have a lot of different positions but they are too narrow so I will change them.

    The best thing about this bike is the low maintenance. No adjusting shock pressure, rebound, sag, or lockouts. No bleeding brakes or tubeless sealant mess. Just build, ride, adjust, ride more and keep riding. Nothing you can't fix with just a multi-tool in most cases. It is perfect for my local rides where my Epiphany is just overkill.
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  15. #15
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,879

    Made a few changes

    I swapped out the crank for a M730 and swapped the bar. Handling is much better now and I can still change my hand position. I have tendonitis and I get alot of pain in my forarms if I don't change position often. The only problem was the UN-72 bb I had was too short so I had to use a longer UN-52. Now the chain is a bit too short but thats an easy fix. Nothing beats riding something you built.

    IMG_1959.JPG

    IMG_1960.JPG

    IMG_1957.JPG
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  16. #16
    artistic...
    Reputation: colker1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    6,558
    [QUOTE=sandmangts] Nothing beats riding something you built.

    good stuff sands.keeping it real.
    want: Ibis ti handlebar. suntour 31.8 front derr. bottom pull

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gm1230126's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    2,951
    Quote Originally Posted by sandmangts
    If anyone needs decals open this PDF and fill out the order form. Then just fax it to Ritchey. The number is in the PDF.

    RITCHEY DECALS.pdf
    Not nearly a complete selection but they all do still exist....
    Needed: 26.8mm XTR seatpost, blue GT/Grundig Jersey.

  18. #18
    John Galt
    Reputation: cegrover's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    1,640
    VERY nice! Good to see the rear brake's in the right place, too...

  19. #19
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,879
    Quote Originally Posted by cegrover
    VERY nice! Good to see the rear brake's in the right place, too...
    I had a hell of a time adjusting the u-brake, I had never done one before but I finally got it. And Ringle bottle cages may look cool and be light but they suck. Hard to put on, fragile and require adjustment to hold the bottle. The Timbuk tires from First Flight are really nice though, they look right and are a great all around tire.
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Fillet-brazed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    7,615
    Quote Originally Posted by sandmangts
    I had a hell of a time adjusting the u-brake, I had never done one before but I finally got it. And Ringle bottle cages may look cool and be light but they suck. Hard to put on, fragile and require adjustment to hold the bottle.
    I would say the U brake is probably the easiest mtb brake to adjust by far. Maybe the method of setting the spring tension threw you?

    Regarding the Ringle cages, I don't even think they look cool, all those bad things you mentioned notwithstanding. Especially on a Ritchey. To add to the nostalgic coolness you could add a Ritchey seatpost, normal bottle cage, Turbo/Ritchey saddle, Ritchey rims and some more conventional (less loud) bar ends maybe.

    Edit: Oh, and those skewers, save them for some mid-90s bike or some bike you don't like.

  21. #21
    John Galt
    Reputation: cegrover's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    1,640
    Quote Originally Posted by Fillet-brazed
    Regarding the Ringle cages, I don't even think they look cool, all those bad things you mentioned notwithstanding. Especially on a Ritchey. To add to the nostalgic coolness you could add a Ritchey seatpost, normal bottle cage, Turbo/Ritchey saddle, Ritchey rims and some more conventional (less loud) bar ends maybe.

    Edit: Oh, and those skewers, save them for some mid-90s bike or some bike you don't like.
    Or just ride and enjoy. I say to each his or her own. Personally, I chose period-correct for my Crazy Pete, but I have plenty of respect for:

    1) The idea of having period and slightly later parts. That's how it is with owners that keep frames a long time and upgrade/replace parts over the years and,

    2) Using what works and riding the bike.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Fillet-brazed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    7,615
    Quote Originally Posted by cegrover
    Or just ride and enjoy. I say to each his or her own. Personally, I chose period-correct for my Crazy Pete, but I have plenty of respect for:

    1) The idea of having period and slightly later parts. That's how it is with owners that keep frames a long time and upgrade/replace parts over the years and,

    2) Using what works and riding the bike.

    yep. my comments were: "to add to the nostalgic coolness"...

    by the way sandman, aren't those particular shifters you have 7 speed shifters and not 8?

  23. #23
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,879
    Quote Originally Posted by Fillet-brazed
    I would say the U brake is probably the easiest mtb brake to adjust by far. Maybe the method of setting the spring tension threw you?

    Regarding the Ringle cages, I don't even think they look cool, all those bad things you mentioned notwithstanding. Especially on a Ritchey. To add to the nostalgic coolness you could add a Ritchey seatpost, normal bottle cage, Turbo/Ritchey saddle, Ritchey rims and some more conventional (less loud) bar ends maybe.

    Edit: Oh, and those skewers, save them for some mid-90s bike or some bike you don't like.
    The brakes are actually easy it was just me having the bolts too tight for the spring tension to work right. once I got it figured out I felt stupid. Some parts will change over time. I have the original rims but they need work. I am looking to trade for a correct post and saddle. Already posted in the trade only thread. It will evolve over time I just don't have all the parts available. I just couldn't wait to ride it. The good thing is selling some of the non-period correct parts should more than pay for getting the right ones. As always thanks for your opinion.
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  24. #24
    John Galt
    Reputation: cegrover's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    1,640
    Quote Originally Posted by Fillet-brazed
    yep. my comments were: "to add to the nostalgic coolness"...

    by the way sandman, aren't those particular shifters you have 7 speed shifters and not 8?
    Very good point. Hopefully, you know where I stand - plenty of respect for your views/knowledge and those of other purists (that's NOT an insult)...

  25. #25
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,879
    Quote Originally Posted by Fillet-brazed
    yep. my comments were: "to add to the nostalgic coolness"...

    by the way sandman, aren't those particular shifters you have 7 speed shifters and not 8?
    That is correct, initially I thought they were 8 speed because they were shifting past the top ring but setting the limit screw fixed it. It was weird becase the grease in them was so gummed up you couldn't feel the clicks. Some wd-40 and fresh lube and they work perfect now.
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •