What Pivot M6 Frame Size should I ride?
Mach 6 Carbon
Med: 5'9- 6'
I am 5.7ft. According to the Pivot chart, I should ride small size.
However, I am use to riding Nomad carbon medium on 50mm stem. Should I stick to 50m stem for my Pivot M6 small frame? or should I go for Pivot M6 medium frame with 50mm stem just like my Nomad?
Small. Don't even consider a medium.
MTBR wants you to know that I work here
i am just a little taller than you and i rode the small with a 50mm stem... it felt about what i think a trail bike should feel like to me... for instance, it felt "longer" than my small firebird...
i would compare the stack and reach numbers. I have found those to be good for predicting how a bike might feel.
i need to develop my crashing skills...
Thanks guys! Will settle for small
You should really talk to your LBS pivot dealer,I was at first going with medium after looking at site and geometry I am 5'11" 33" inseam,it at first seeemed to be the fit I wanted but after talking to my shop and the Pivot rep went with large.slacker HT and even on large Mach 6 reach is shorter then my large Carbine even though TT length is longer on The Mach 6.
Bike to the Bone...
How does stack and reach affect sizing? Honest question and one that I'm interested in learning...
Reach is the only real way to compare frame sizes. Top tybe lengths can be deceiving because bikes have varying seat angles. TT length is the horizontal distance between a point on teh seat tube level with top of head tube, and the top of teh head tube. Reach is the horizontal distance between bottom bracket and top of head tube, and that is what determines how a bike feels; especially when descending when your off the saddle because then only the bars and pedals matter. And that is generally the most important of all riding besides pure xc. As for pedaling, to get teh proper efficent pedaling position, on a bike with a slacker seat tube angle (and hence longer TT if reaches are equal) youll generally move the seat forward to achieve that, (effectively "shortening" the and cockpit) and vice versa. Two bikes with teh same reach, if one has a slacker seat tube angkle it will have a longer effective top tube length, and vive versa. So comparing TT length is meaningless unless the bikes have the same seat tube angles. Also, to addd to teh confusion, a frame's effective seat angle (angle between BB and the point on the seat tube where the saddle is at pedaling height, which is what matters in this discussion, and what is usually listed in the geo numbers by the maker) is not always obvious by looking at the bike, since often the BB is not in line with the actual seat tube. It boils down to, comparing reach is the way to go. To a lesser extent, stack (vertical distance between BB and top of HT) and BB height plays a role, but to a lesser extent than reach because head tube lengths and BB heights dont really vary that much between bikes of similar travel, fork length, and purpose. Of course this can all be fine tuned with headset spacers, stem length, and bar height but try to get a bike with a reach close to what youre used to, especially if you were already running a short 50 mm stem. I also think about what I call "full reach;= frame reach + stem length, I know what I like for this and then on a different frame i can adjust stem length to get that number; as long as i dont go with too long a a stem. Better to go with longer frame/shorter stem.
However, OP, nomads (and older SC's but not the newer models) are shorter in reach per size than most makers; definitely get a small mach6. Im 5'8" and thats what id get. And still run teh 50 mm stem. Med Nomads reach is 383 mm, small m6's reach is just a tad longer, 389 mm.
'14 rocky mountain altitude, rally edition
'11 transition blindside, 650b converted
Bike to the Bone...
dwyooaj, thanks for the explanation.... it helps.
Couple of other things to consider....
1. Torso length instead of height. E.g. I'm 5'9' but I have a long torso and short legs 30 inch inseem) so a med is what fits me best. I have a buddy who's closer to 5'10' and his legs run up to his armpits, so he rides a small.
2. Don't forget to factor in the width of the bars you'll plan to ride with along with the rise of the bars. Totally effects stem size choice. E.g I ran with a 50 mm stem with 800 mm bars, but switched to a 65 mm stem once I cut them down to 770 mm because I was getting too far over the bars.
3. Also factor in your prefered pedaling and decending positions, along with stem/bar height
Point is, as dwyouaj also emphasized, there's more to sizing than just TT/HT length and height. Gonna be an expensive purchase, so you might as well ensure the bike is properly sized for you so you really get the most out of it. If you can't demo the bikes, then get a pro fitting done. They'll dial in your fitting numbers which you can then use as part of the bike evaluation process.
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