Page 1 of 6 12345 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 100 of 504
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310

    Vik's Mach 6 Builds

    I decided to start my own M6 build thread so as not to clog up the Mach 6 photo thread with minutiae about our builds so folks who didn't want to see this info can avoid it and folks who are interested can find it in one spot.

    ==========================================



    My GF got jealous and ordered a M6 as well. Here X0 complete [small = 27.8lbs w/o pedals] came with a DM cover.



    My large blue frame = 6.86lb.



    and the rest of my bike waiting to be born!



    - 160mm Pike
    - XTR brakes
    - XX1
    - RF Next SL cranks
    - Light Bicycle rims w/ Hope Hubs and Conti TK 2.2" tires
    - RS Reverb
    - RF stem & bars
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by turfnsurf View Post
    I was considering a Light Bicycle Wheelset, but I was concerned about them setting up tubeless with the hookless rim. I know people do it, just sounded different. I'd like to hear how you like them after a few rides, they seem like a good option compared to Enve's (expensive and pain in the A$$ spoke setup.)
    I set up my LB 35mm wide hookless rims in a few minutes.

    - 1 wrap on stans 25mm tape
    - 2 scoops of sealant
    - 1 CO2 cartridge to get it seated
    - a few shakes to spread the sealant around
    - let them lay on their sides for the evening with occasional flips to spread things out nicely

    One of the easiest tubeless setups I have done.

    BTW - tires = Conti Trail King 2.2" Protection
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310


    I went bikepacking with the boys this weekend in the mountains so after riding home today and getting in a nap I figured I better tackle one of the tasks left to get the GF's M6 fully rolling.

    My LBS didn't set up the stock tires tubeless as they knew we'd discard them pronto.

    I tried to seat the beads on her stock rims with one wrap of tape, but the Trail Kings in 2.2" were a loose fit and wouldn't take a seat with a blast from a CO2 cartridge. I don't have a compressor and I want these tires to be re-seatable on the trail so I added a second wrap of tape and they popped into place no problem.

    FWIW - I've used these same tires on a bunch of different rims and this is the loosest fit I have encountered.

    Now I need to:

    - pull her XO1 cranks now and install the Blackspire Bruiser bash guard
    - get her suspension dialled
    - apply some protetive tape in key areas
    - de-logo the beast

    Looks like rain all week so I'll have time to make that happen.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    How are you going to de-logo?
    I'm going to cut out some shapes that cover the offending decals from paper. Then take them to a local sign shop so they can make me vinyl decals. I'll match the colour scheme of the bike so they don't look out of place. They are removable so if I am not 100% stoked or I want to change 'em up in a year I can.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    For interests sake here are the complete wheel weights for our bikes:

    Mine:
    - Hope hubs
    - Sapim Race BD spokes
    - DT Swiss nipples
    - LB 35mm wide rims
    - XT 203/180 rotors
    - XX1 cassette
    - Conti Trail King 2.2" tires [tubeless 1 wrap tape + 2 scoops stans]
    - front = 1842g
    - rear = 2218g

    GF's:
    - stock Pivot M6 XO1 build DT Swiss wheels
    - Avid 180/160 rotors
    - XO1 cassette
    - Conti Trail King 2.2" tires [tubeless 2 wraps tape + 2 scoops Conti sealant]
    - front = 1778g
    - rear = 2150g

    Glad to see her wheels come out light as this was one of our goals for her new bike. She's 120lbs so a heavy bike/wheels is more of a problem for her than it is for me.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    57
    Do you you know the wheels weight? ( without tires, discs, cassette. If you built'em, the rims weight? ) Thanks!

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by maindog View Post
    Do you you know the wheels weight? ( without tires, discs, cassette. If you built'em, the rims weight? ) Thanks!
    Mine:

    - LB rims/spokes/hope hubs
    -- front = 784g
    -- rear = 912g
    -- LB rims = 412g
    -- Hope front hub = 175g
    -- Hope rear hub w/ XD = 403g
    -- Cont TK 2.2" = 771g

    GF's

    - stock Pivot X01 build DT Swiss wheels
    -- wheel w/ rotors and XO1 cassette, but no tires
    -- front = 2lbs
    -- rear = 2.7lbs
    -- working from memory on these numbers [have them written down at home]
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    57
    Thanks!!!

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    I have a roll of Shelter Tape I'm going to use to protect some parts of our M6 frames: Shelter Bike Frame Protection

    I'm also going to score some helicopter tape for non-impact abrasion spots like the top of the TT where shoes get dragged across it.

    What are you guys doing for frame protection besides the stock DT guard and the CS guard?
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    57
    I'm still buying everything, I think I will use helicopter tape...

    I have two more questions: Can you confirm the L-B rims ERD to be 551? How tall is your girlfriend? How does she like the fit? I'm 5'8" and I think I'm going for the small. Thanks.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by maindog View Post
    I'm still buying everything, I think I will use helicopter tape...

    I have two more questions: Can you confirm the L-B rims ERD to be 551? How tall is your girlfriend? How does she like the fit? I'm 5'8" and I think I'm going for the small. Thanks.
    My wheel builder used the ERD spec on the LB page to order spokes and had no issues.

    My GF is 5'6" and on the small. The fit really depends on your torso/arm length. She has long legs and average upper dimensions typical for a girl. She seems to fit it fine and she tried a medium in Sedona that was bigger than she liked.

    Having said that she hasn't been out on it for a real ride yet since I was away for the weekend and didn't finish getting her bike setup.

    We may trim a bit off the bars to make the narrower for her, but besides that she looks good on the small.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Salespunk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    5,057
    I am letting my bike get scratched! Actually though, the leather stuff does a good job of protecting the frame. Haven't really seen other places get worn yet.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    I am letting my bike get scratched! Actually though, the leather stuff does a good job of protecting the frame. Haven't really seen other places get worn yet.
    These are our first carbonium frames so I will admit to being overly protective. I'm not nearly as comfortable with the ideal of riding a carbon bike as I am a metal bike.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310


    A serious lack of spare time means a few tweaks a night to my GF's Mach 6 to get it rolling.

    On Thurs/Sun I:

    - installed RF grips
    - dropped her stem
    - adjusted her bars
    - installed soem Spank Spike pedals
    - setup soem Cont TKs tubeless



    Tonight's my mission was installing a Black Spire Bruiser taco bash guard.



    As long as you don't have to mess with the PF BB the XO1 cranks are dead easy to remove & reinstall.



    That's a 30T ring with the taco bash installed.

    My work done I can go make tacos and enjoy a beer!
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    215
    Vik,

    The Trail Kings seem pretty big for a 2.2. Have you measured them? Want to run one on the front. Conti is all over the place on sizing.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by tadmcmichael View Post
    Vik,

    The Trail Kings seem pretty big for a 2.2. Have you measured them? Want to run one on the front. Conti is all over the place on sizing.
    TK's run big. The 2.4" TKs on my 26er are like a 2.5"+ tire from a more "normal" brand.

    I wouldn't run a true to size 2.2" tire on the M6, but I figure the TK in 2.2" is like a "normal" 2.3"- 2.35" tire.

    I'll measure them and post the info.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    215
    Yes, generally looking at 2.4s but those look plenty big at 2.2.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: KRob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    11,610
    Lookin' good Vik. congrats on the new bikes. Still waiting on my bonus, so haven't pulled the trigger on mine yet.
    I will cause thee to ride upon the high places of the earth...
    Isaiah 58:14

    www.stuckinthespokes.com

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by KRob View Post
    Lookin' good Vik. congrats on the new bikes. Still waiting on my bonus, so haven't pulled the trigger on mine yet.
    Thanks KRob. Your M6 review definitely played a role in getting us on these bikes. That and the fact it was the only one of the options we were looking at that we could put our hands/butts on as opposed to just ordering $5K+ bikes sight unseen.

    Has your decision stayed the same - SC Solo or are you still mulling over the options?
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by tadmcmichael View Post
    Yes, generally looking at 2.4s but those look plenty big at 2.2.
    In a perfect world I would have two wheelsets one with TKs in 2.2" and one with TKs in 2.4" so I could pick and choose with minimal hassle.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation: KRob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    11,610
    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Thanks KRob. Your M6 review definitely played a role in getting us on these bikes. That and the fact it was the only one of the options we were looking at that we could put our hands/butts on as opposed to just ordering $5K+ bikes sight unseen.

    Has your decision stayed the same - SC Solo or are you still mulling over the options?
    Still pretty set on the 5010 but I have waivered a bit after seeing a few burly M6's with the Derby carbon wheels like Salespunk's and also riding my buddy's Burner with the same wheels. I'm thinking a bike like that would do 97.5% of what my Chilcotin would do (that's within my skill set), yet still feel nearly as light and playful as a 5010c.

    Also revisited the Flux built with a lowered Pike and carbon rims.... just can't quite get over the dated looks of the Flux. If it were carbon with the updated styling of the Czar I'd be all over that.

    I've got an email in to a buddy who runs a shop that is a SC dealer though and if I can get the XO1 AM build for close to my budget I think I'm staying the course and getting the 5010.
    I will cause thee to ride upon the high places of the earth...
    Isaiah 58:14

    www.stuckinthespokes.com

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by KRob View Post
    Still pretty set on the 5010 but I have waivered a bit after seeing a few burly M6's with the Derby carbon wheels like Salespunk's and also riding my buddy's Burner with the same wheels. I'm thinking a bike like that would do 97.5% of what my Chilcotin would do (that's within my skill set), yet still feel nearly as light and playful as a 5010c.

    I've got an email in to a buddy who runs a shop that is a SC dealer though and if I can get the XO1 AM build for close to my budget I think I'm staying the course and getting the 5010.
    Well either way you'll end up with something awesome.

    As you know I'm a proponent of the one bike to rule them all philosophy. Beyond cost savings and getting 100% in tune with one bike it's just so simple. Mountain bike ride - grab "the" bike - ride - smile - repeat!

    My M6 will be 7lbs lighter than my Nomad, more efficient up and just as capable down which is as close to perfection as I can imagine given my local riding.

    I will say I dig the Solo orange and external cables more than the M6 colour options or those foolish internal cables!
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310


    Don't have headset of PF BB tools for your Mach 6? No problem when your bike mechanic of choice has a rolling workshop.

    If you happen to be in the Victoria, BC area that's Brent @ Velofix.ca - the only guy I trust with my FS MTBs.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Salespunk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    5,057
    That's a killer setup!

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    That's a killer setup!
    +1 - more mobile bike mechanic porn: Our Mobile Bike ProShop - Vancouver - velofix
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310


    Setup the GF's suspension tonight and tire pressure. Made notes and sent her a PDF so if she's away with the girlz riding and needs to get back to a setup that will work she's got one.

    Tried to approach CTD with an open mind, but it's proven to be pretty useless.

    C = pretty much a full lock out we'll never use

    T = is okay in the softest setting for fireroad climbing

    D = is fine for most techy riding

    For the love of God give me a blue compression dial with 15 clicks of adjustment I can actually use instead of 2 useful setting options.

    Rant over...
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310


    With my GF's M6 pretty much done It's time to finish mine off.

    - setup suspension
    - need to apply protective tape to frame
    - sort out cables in shock area [both bikes]
    - de-logo

    It's going to be soggy all weekend so I'll be riding the old bike and tinkering with the M6.

    The internal cable routing is so goofy. All the good ways of sorting them out require me to wrap something around the TT anchoring the cables to the underside of the TT and keeping thrm off the shock. Off course that looks crappy. So much for the "clean" look.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    59
    Vikb, please post bigger pic of your awesome build!!

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by aphis View Post
    Vikb, please post bigger pic of your awesome build!!


    Sorry no decent photos today. Had to work late so it was dark by the time I got around to messing with the M6.

    Got some protective tape applied and some custom decals. Wet weekend ahead so I'm going to figure out the cable routing on both bikes tomorrow.

    I'll get some better photos while I am doing that.

    FWIW:

    - weighed my complete bike [Large M6] with pedals = 27.7lbs
    - weighed my GF's small XO1 M6 with pedals = 28.8lbs
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    1,253
    That visco-elastic tape is intriguing. I wonder if frame manufactures would consider coatings or paints with those properties, at least on the downtube and bb.

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by half_man_half_scab View Post
    That visco-elastic tape is intriguing.
    Carbon is very stiff. That gives it that laser like precision that folks like. The downside is it's brittle. So protective tape - particularly the energy absorbing kind like Shelter Tape can offer some much needed protection from point loads [edge of a sharp rock] that carbon can't normally endure and spread the load over a wider area.

    The challenge is it is expensive and adds weight....it's also not easy to apply over complex shapes like the BB area, but works really well on straight flat sections like the DT or seat/chain stays.

    So far I have put a section of Shelter Tape on my DT starting right above the black Pivot guard and running to the HT junction. You don't need to cover all the way to the HT, but it's fairly think so I thought having that edge stop 3/4 of the way up the DT would end up peeling as I grab the bike there when carrying it.

    I'm going to stick some on the bottom of the BB. Not sure how well it will stay there, but I can always peel it off if it starts to look ragged.

    Other areas I've thought to install it is the two seat stays and the non-driveside chain stay.

    We used some Lizard Skin protective DT tape on my GF's top tube to protect from shoe scuffs when she gets on/off her rig.

    I have some 5mm automotive track day protective tape shipping to me that's not as protective as the Shelter Tape, but cheaper, lighter and easier to form to complex shapes.

    I'm going overboard on this for sure. Part of my process is just to see what works and what doesn't for interest sake.

    Quote Originally Posted by half_man_half_scab View Post
    TI wonder if frame manufactures would consider coatings or paints with those properties, at least on the downtube and bb.
    The big advantage bike companies have is that they can buy custom made rubber pieces in bulk and they have models for the specific bikes they want to protect. I'd be happy to buy a set of colour coordinated silicone rubber guards from Pivot that fit my M6.

    For individual owners you have to buy tape and then try and apply it to your bike which is not easy in spots where there are funky shapes. It's just cost effective for an owner to get anything custom done.

    My Race Face cranks came with silicone rubber boots to protect the ends of the cranks. Keeps me happy and gives RF a high-mark up accessory to sell me when the stock one wears out or I want a different colour.

    I think the problem is that bike companies are busy and these type of product are just low on their priority list. What could work is Pivot teaming up with an accessory company like Lizard Skins. Pivot gives LS the shapes they need in a computer model and LS creates a custom Pivot protection kit with tape and rubber bits sized to fit your model/size of bike. LS sells a $$$ product and gives Pivot a licensing fee for the model info.

    I wouldn't hold my breath for this to happen, but it's not crazy talk either.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310


    My Mach 6 is mostly done.

    Custom decals for rear of frame and wheels are on their way. More protective tape, but you won't see it unless you do uber close ups.



    160mm Pike + Hope hubs and Light Bicycle 35mm rims + Continental Trail Kings in 2.2" width



    Custom fork decals for some low cost bling!



    203mm XT rotor + XTR brakes



    Chris King headset + Race Face 65mm stem + RF Next bars 740mm wide. I'll give it a month and then cut the steerer down.



    Ergon grips + Reverb RH control mounted upside down



    Protective tape at HT and on DT



    I'm a leather saddle guy [Selle Anatomica on my Nomad], but I thought I would try a plastic WTB saddle to see if I can handle it [I don't wear padded bike shorts]. It's pretty and it's lighter than my go-to SA saddle. Time will tell.



    Personalized decal + still need to protect shock from cable rub when suspension moves



    3D printed DM mount cover. I'm going to paint it light blue. Still need to dig around my parts bin for a M6 bolt.



    RF Next SL crank w/ protective tape + 28T ring [I have a 30T ring as well - will decide what to stick with over the next month] + Blackspire taco bash guard + RF Atlas pedals



    XX1 drivetrain + new decals coming to de-brand the rear triangle and to bling out the rims



    180mm XT rotor + XTR brake
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    50
    Absolutely gorgeous build, anyone who hates on the blue mach 6 is just jealous because its one of the best looking blue bikes I've ever seen. I have a couple questions if you don't mind, first how did you get those custom decals from rock shox and what kind of grips are on your gf's bike?

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    621
    slikgraphics.com
    You can see their logo on his fork crown.

    Nice build vik. How are those grips feeling so far? Going to order a pair. Oh, and surprised you went 28 on the front? I think you should be fine with 30, I'm going to try the 32 for AB/BC.

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    50
    Also how do you like those 35mm wide LB hoops? I am so torn between building a set of these or just getting ENVE's and sadly my biggest reason for wanting ENVE's is because I think they look cool. Are the LB's just as good?

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Salespunk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    5,057
    There is nothing special about the Enves unfortunately. Easton uses ballistic carbon but the Enves are a standard layup as far as I know. Also the LB rims hookless beads which makes a big difference in strength since it is usually the sidewall that fails.

    Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    50
    Wow I wasn't aware of that.

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    57
    Congratulations Vik!!! Fantastic bike!!! Where did you get the 740 mm next bars?

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by maindog View Post
    Congratulations Vik!!! Fantastic bike!!! Where did you get the 740 mm next bars?
    Thanks. My Nomad has been a great bike, but there are a bunch of things I am looking forward to with the Mach 6.

    My RF bars a some of the flat wides Next bars. Got 'em at Jenson. The spec says 720mm, but the ruler says 740mm measured tip to tip.

    ***Edit*** - just realized with the Ergon grips on there that could be the reason the bar is measuring wider. I wouldn't have thought they'd add 10mm per side, but perhaps?

    My current Nomad bars are 700mm, but I'm going to roll with the 740's and see what I think. I can always cut 'em down.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  40. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by ocmedic View Post
    Also how do you like those 35mm wide LB hoops? I am so torn between building a set of these or just getting ENVE's and sadly my biggest reason for wanting ENVE's is because I think they look cool. Are the LB's just as good?


    I'll have a review of these wheels ready at the end of the summer. The one person I know that rides ENVE and LB rims says he can't tell the difference between them.



    At $200/each delivered for LB rims and great warranty support from LB I can't see the value in ENVEs.



    I currently run 35mm wide Velocity rims so I know I like the width.

    The LB rims also setup tubeless easier than any other rim I have worked with including Stan's.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  41. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by ocmedic View Post
    Absolutely gorgeous build, anyone who hates on the blue mach 6 is just jealous because its one of the best looking blue bikes I've ever seen. I have a couple questions if you don't mind, first how did you get those custom decals from rock shox and what kind of grips are on your gf's bike?
    Fork decals are from Silk Graphics. Very nice and very easy to deal with.

    The grips on my GF's are Race Face grips. Race Face
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  42. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by robnow View Post
    Nice build vik. How are those grips feeling so far? Going to order a pair. Oh, and surprised you went 28 on the front? I think you should be fine with 30, I'm going to try the 32 for AB/BC.
    I have been riding 32T x 36T on my 26er Nomad for more than a year. Recently I went to 30T x 42T on the Nomad and that's nice for sustained steep fire road climbs.

    I suspect I can go with the 28T or 30T and be fine on the M6. Since my riding is steep tech I figured the 28T means a better chainline most of the time. I rarely pedal on the downs locally, but when I travel that becomes more important. Swapping rings is trivial so I'll probably use both at various times.

    I love Ergon grips in general. I'll need a few epic 5hrs+ rides on these before I can comment specifically, but I have yet to meet an Ergon grip I didn't like [when properly matched to the application it was designed for].
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  43. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    100
    Wow! Great work!
    This bike is simply stunning!

  44. #44
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    2,895
    Wow, congrats, what a nice bike!

  45. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    621
    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    I love Ergon grips in general. I'll need a few epic 5hrs+ rides on these before I can comment specifically, but I have yet to meet an Ergon grip I didn't like [when properly matched to the application it was designed for].
    Yeah, I've been running the GE1s for last couple seasons, will be nice not to have the huge collar on the outside…although I'm sure my pinky fingers have been saved a few times from it.

  46. #46
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    735
    Great looking build Vik. Interested to see what you are going to do with some custom decals. If you are interested in taking a look, I have some nice custom Pivot decals I had made up for my Derby rims, just haven't decided if I want to put them on.

  47. #47
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    100
    You both have absolutely two beautiful builds! Very nice. I just have a couple of questions for you. What was the deciding factor in going with the Hope Hubs, were Hedleys considered? I want to race this year in the Enduro Series in BC, what are your thoughts on running the LB's or Derby's? Would they hold up? or would you go aluminum say Velocity or Syntace 35?

  48. #48
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by dawgman25 View Post
    Great looking build Vik. Interested to see what you are going to do with some custom decals. If you are interested in taking a look, I have some nice custom Pivot decals I had made up for my Derby rims, just haven't decided if I want to put them on.
    For sure I'd love to see them. I'm just going with some geometric shapes. My goal is to have some colour on the rims so they pop when we take riding shots in the dark forest.

    Last thing I'd do is put more Pivot logos on my billboard errr bike.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  49. #49
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by Starkhünd View Post
    You both have absolutely two beautiful builds! Very nice. I just have a couple of questions for you. What was the deciding factor in going with the Hope Hubs, were Hedleys considered? I want to race this year in the Enduro Series in BC, what are your thoughts on running the LB's or Derby's? Would they hold up? or would you go aluminum say Velocity or Syntace 35?
    I can source Hopes cheaply. I have used Hopes to good effect in the past. They are easy to service and adaptable to nearly any hub standard.

    By using all Hope hubs all my spares and interchangeable which is a beautiful thing - so I never considered Hadleys.

    I did consider E13 hubs: TRSr hub | the hive

    But having all the same hubs just makes more sense than chasing some element of tech innovation.

    I can't tell you if LB rims will hold up because I'd need 2-3yrs of use to give you honest feedback.

    I can say that I wouldn't have bought them if I didn't think they'd last and if I hadn't read good user feedback.

    I would run LB, Derby, Velocity or Stan's rims without hesitation in an enduro race series. Use some sensible spokes and big enough tires with enough pressure to protect the rims and I can't see an issue.

    Having said that any rim or bike part can fail under hard use.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  50. #50
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    100
    Thanks for the info. Keep sending the beautiful picks as you dial it in! What's a good spoke count for the LB rims, 28 or 32 ?

  51. #51
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    100
    What are the differences under weave, 12k 3k UD ?

  52. #52
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by Starkhünd View Post
    Thanks for the info. Keep sending the beautiful picks as you dial it in! What's a good spoke count for the LB rims, 28 or 32 ?
    I can't see any reason not to run 32H rims. It's a standard configuration that's proven to work. Easily available parts and will work across my fleet if say the hubs get replaced on the original bike.

    The weight saved by running 4 less spokes is negligible, but being able to complete a ride with a broken spoke or two is nice.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  53. #53
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Got my M6's suspension setup. Just the initial range which will get tweaked still.

    I'm 180lbs naked, 5'11" normal athletic build.

    160mm Pike

    - 65 psi ~25% sag
    - Rebound 10 clicks from full open
    - Compression Descend 4 clicks from full open
    - didn't add any tokens

    Float X

    - 190 psi ~ 25% sag
    - Rebound 9 clicks from full open
    - Compression Descend [most riding] & Trail 1 for fire road climbs

    Tires [2.2" Conti Trail King tubeless on 35mm rims]

    - front 20 psi
    - rear 22 psi

    We ride techy steep trails in the forest so speeds stay on the lower side of things with lots of rough spots and turns to deal with. It's rare to have a really wide open descent where you can pin it.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  54. #54
    mtbr member
    Reputation: k2rider1964's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    2,298
    Check out the new NOX Composites website too. I have them on both my bikes now after **BOTH** my Enve's failed on my Tallboy in (8) months time. Since I wasn't the original owner, somehow that means the wheels suck as soon as the 2nd owner gets them according to Enve. The NOX wheelsets were over $1000 less than comparable Enve's. My buddy built up his own LB wheels for $300 less than my NOX wheels and he is very happy with them. He did save $300 but built the wheels himself and doesn't have the warranty that NOX (and American company by the way) provides!!

    Quote Originally Posted by ocmedic View Post
    Also how do you like those 35mm wide LB hoops? I am so torn between building a set of these or just getting ENVE's and sadly my biggest reason for wanting ENVE's is because I think they look cool. Are the LB's just as good?

  55. #55
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    I got LB rims and built them as wheels. LB also sells complete wheels. You get warranties with both.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  56. #56
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310


    I went a bit nutty on the frame protection and decals. You could just hop on the bike and ride it as is without having any issues.

    But I wanted check out both and see how they worked.

    Nice thing with tape and decals is they can come off and be discarded or changed whenever you want them to.

    I found out after I was done making decals that my boss has a machine to make 'em for his large RC jet planes so I'll probably start working on a new version this summer.



    In the top photo my buddy runs a bike bag business called Porcelain Rocket and his logo matched my M6's colours so I covered the Pivot logo on the HT with it. Might as well give his business some love if I am going to advertise on my bike.

    In the photo above I stuck some thin Lizard Skins protective tape on the TT primarily to protect it from shoe scuffs.

    It's thin so you won't snag it and it disappears pretty well so from a couple feet away it's invisible.



    You have to look real close to see it.



    Lizard Skin patches on the side of the headtube to prevent housing rub. Using bulk protective tape is cheaper, but these patches are so fast/convenient I used them instead.



    The shock got some fuzzy velcro on the top black part and then a section of Shelter Tape on the shock body with a zip tie to keep the cables in place and crossed over to minimize how far they stick out on each side when the suspension is compressed.

    For straight up abrasion protection Shelter Tape is overkill, but I had a roll and it was easier to use it then to head out an buy some other thinner tape.



    LS patches on the upper ST to protect where the housing rubs by the suspension yoke.



    Shelter Tape on the underside of the BB and front part of the swing arm as well as the underside of the NDS CS.



    LS patches on the frame either side of the lower suspension linkage to protect the "gravel grinder".



    Some protective film on the carbon cranks and silicone boots for the bottom of the crank arms.

    That's a lot of protective tape and such, but if it means I am riding without thinking about the bike it's worth it. This is my first carbon bike so I am not yet comfortable with what abuse it can take in crashes and such.



    That's a wrap for build pics. You won't see the Mach 6 clean again.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  57. #57
    mtbr member
    Reputation: KRob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    11,610
    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    [

    That's a wrap for build pics. You won't see the Mach 6 clean again.
    Drool-worthy! Very nice build. Super clean looking bike. Nice photography too. Thanks for sharing the build and the inspiration. Reminds me, I've got to get some Lizard Skin patches ordered. The 5010 should be here next week.
    I will cause thee to ride upon the high places of the earth...
    Isaiah 58:14

    www.stuckinthespokes.com

  58. #58
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310


    I've been waiting for the trails to dry out a bit and was planning to take the Mach 6 out for its first real ride by myself or with GF on her M6 so we could take it easy and get to know the bikes.

    Great plan, but that didn't happen. I got the bug to ride the Mach 6 on one of our hardest most sustained rides. Steep techy and long. My GF's comment on that choice "Bold move!"



    To preface my ride comments....I'm not one of these people that hops onto a new bike and after 5mins is shredding like nobody's business. I spent at least 3 months getting my Nomad dialled to the point I was happy and I was still making significant improvements after a year of riding. The Nomad was my first long travel MTB and I was tackling new terrain so I'm expecting the M6 break-in to be shorter, but still be a weeks long process.

    All that to say don't take these thoughts as my last word on the Mach 6.

    Fire Road Climb

    This trail has the most brutal fireroad climb in our area. 5kms of steepness with several sections I refer to as Wall #1, #2 & #3. As expected the DW-Link + lightweight made for a fast bike. Unlike my Nomad you really feel like every pedal stroke shoots the bike forward and that makes you want to hammer.

    I left the suspension in descend on both ends and never wanted it firmer. I like not messing with my suspension so finding a set and forget setup would make me happy.

    With the bigger 650B wheels the 28T x 42T wasn't crazy low.

    Something about my leg dimensions like the slack STA.

    Nothing to complain about on the fire road climb. I made it up way in front of the next rider and feeling fresher than if I had been on the Nomad.



    Muddy Steep Techy DH

    The start of this trail is fairly tough with loose steep techy lines that require precision and the ability to turn sharply and sort out the next move.

    I ran into several issues:

    - 2.2" Trail Kings were under gunned and sketchy
    - suspension was too firm
    - super light bike and wheels bounced off line easily
    - shorter more agile bike exacerbated the above issues

    I stopped and took air out of the suspension and tires and dialled the compression down and rebound dampening up. That helped, but I couldn't do anything about the tires being skinny.

    When I am not confident in my tires my whole ride is a $hitshow. I tense up. I take that split second hesitation to size up the next section that can often be the difference between success and failure.

    Where I could let the bike roll it was well balanced and easy to manoeuvre around tight sections.

    So glad I got the 160mm Pike - the front end was not slack at all.

    When I got home I ordered up some 2.35" Hans Damfs [TK's in 2.4" weren't available any time soon].

    By the time I get the bigger rubber I'll have the suspension setup better.



    Muddy Steep Techy Climbs

    This trail features lots of shorter punchy techy climbs with a few sections where you link 3-5 of them up for a longer effort.

    Given the tires the bike climbed great. I like how the DW-link feels. My Nomad feels glued to the ground, but sluggish by comparison. I was getting good traction with the M6 and the bike accelerates well on the climbs over chunks and such. The DW-link definitely feels like it stays higher in the travel, but wasn't sacrificing grip.

    The bike is precise on wooden structures. No flop in the steering. Although the on-paper HTA is slacker than my Nomad it feels steeper as noted above glad I got the 160mm fork.

    I think more aggressive tires are going to be the only thing I need to log my best climbing ever.

    I'm usually a decent climber, but I was just accelerating past folks on the Mach 6.



    ^^^^^ Don't let the chubby Brett Tippie lookalike turn you off the sweet looking Mach 6...

    General Thoughts

    - light bike got deflected off line easier than my heavy Nomad...that will take some getting used to
    - wider bars help with keeping the bike on line
    - the faster I pushed the M6 the better it did right up until the tires failed me and it went terribly wrong
    - glad to get her dirty and get my first good crash out of the way so I can get over my carbon fears
    - love the snappy DW-Link feel
    - love the suspension riding high in its travel despite some softer settings
    - wished I had better compression dampening control on both ends
    - agile bike and scary tires = way more scary
    - agile bike with aggressive tires = seems like it will be awesome
    - short rear end and short wheelbase made tight turns so much easier than the Nomad
    - I didn't really exploit the playfulness of the bike due the tires
    - despite spending more energy/stress on the DH sections...I ended up much fresher than I would on my Nomad
    Last edited by vikb; 04-07-2014 at 01:07 PM.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  59. #59
    mtbr member
    Reputation: k2rider1964's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    2,298
    ^^^ Awesome post Vik. On my first ride on the Mach 6 after 3+ years on various 29er Tallboys, I couldn't believe how weird it felt on everything but the climbs. It was no Tallboy on the climbs but like you, I was leading the charge and was very happy with the DW link suspension. I attributed it mostly to new bike excitement...kind of like when you were a youngster and always thought you ran faster with new shoes

    We definitely don't have your wet conditions here in SoCal but my 2.2 TK's are doing great. They performed exceptionally well in Utah last week. That being said, I think my new "go to" tire for the rear is going to be the Specialized Ground Control 2.3's. I like everything about them. They don't make them in 27.5 yet though.

    I also leave my suspension in the Descend mode at all times, both on the Mach 6 and my Tallboy...no issues whatsoever!!

  60. #60
    mtbr member
    Reputation: KRob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    11,610
    Great report. Thanks for the honest insights. Looking forward to your ungoing impressions as you dial it in more.

    I won a pair of the MK 2.2s at the Hurricane MTB Fest and was going to put them on the new bike for the faster rolling. Sounds like they're not the best in steeper, wetter conditions but k2rider liked them in the dry so I'm hoping they'll work here in Nevada too. The HRII that come with my bike are good, but a bit heavy and more agressive treads than I need for this purpose.

    LOL at the Brett Tippy comment. I was thinking the first guy was you and thought, "Man, that old guy is tearing it up on those techy BC trails!"
    I will cause thee to ride upon the high places of the earth...
    Isaiah 58:14

    www.stuckinthespokes.com

  61. #61
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by KRob View Post
    Great report. Thanks for the honest insights. Looking forward to your ungoing impressions as you dial it in more.

    I won a pair of the MK 2.2s at the Hurricane MTB Fest and was going to put them on the new bike for the faster rolling. Sounds like they're not the best in steeper, wetter conditions but k2rider liked them in the dry so I'm hoping they'll work here in Nevada too. The HRII that come with my bike are good, but a bit heavy and more agressive treads than I need for this purpose.

    LOL at the Brett Tippy comment. I was thinking the first guy was you and thought, "Man, that old guy is tearing it up on those techy BC trails!"


    ^^^^ Brett Tippie

    I love Trail Kings, but I normally run the 2.4"version on my 26er Nomad.

    Three issues are at play here:

    1. wet, very steep and muddy conditions [definitely a problem]

    2. very light wheels getting deflected more easily [definitely an issue]

    3. wide rims and narrow tires affect the tire profile and angle of side knobs [maybe]

    I think for dry conditions with lots of traction they'd be great. I would give them a shot. I'd use them in Moab/Sedona where [compared to BC winter riding] there is traction for days!!

    Mike Curiak posted on MTBR about light tires/rims being a concern for stability and I can now see what he meant. I've always had reasonably heavy bikes/wheels so it never came up until now.

    Anyways some big Hans Damfs are on their way to me and I'll use the 2.2" TKs for summer and epic rides where speed/efficiency is the most important thing.

    Unless the HDs blow me away I'll get some TK's in 2.4" for the Mach 6. They've treated me well for years so they deserve my $$ and love.



    ^^^ not Brett Tippie....

    I am so glad for posting on MTBR. I didn't realize that I could go to a whole bunch of Canadian MTB events and get treated like a VIP aka Brett Tippie as long as I didn't get on a bike and let my weak skills blow my cover! Hahahah

    Can't wait to see the Solo KRob. You are going to leave 'em in your dust.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  62. #62
    mtbr member
    Reputation: KRob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    11,610
    Brett hopped on the lift with us on one of the last runs of the day when I was at Whistler. Funny guy. He is non-stop crazy.
    I will cause thee to ride upon the high places of the earth...
    Isaiah 58:14

    www.stuckinthespokes.com

  63. #63
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    506
    Vikb,

    Great ride report on the Mach6... wow, that's an awful lot of frame protection... I always go the route of less is more, but that's personal choice.

    Interesting you mentioned the point of a "light" bike being harder to hold a line... I don't have a Mach 6, but my Intense Carbine (26.5lbs) I find to be a chore on hard charging descents that have a lot of chunder. I am now thinking I need to add some weight to my bike (LOL)... It does make for a great climber though. I'm a big guy at well north of 200 so I may be making the switch back to an aluminum frame next and get the weight back up to 28/29lbs. Crazy that I am even considering this, but for southern interior trails (Nelson, B.C.) it works better.

  64. #64
    mtbr member
    Reputation: DrewBird's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    974
    I started with 2.35/2.25 front/rear Hans Dampfs on my M6, and have since swapped out the front for a Magic Mary. The Mary is AWESOME, under 100g heavier than a Dampf and just absolutely glued to the trail. Cornering knobs are big and mean and well-supported, not like those little nubs on the Dampf. That change really opened up the M6 for me; like you note, it's an agile bike, which can make it seem squirrelly if the tires are under-spec'd. But when you have tires you trust, it's just so so much fun!

  65. #65
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Vosh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    121
    Wish my Mach 6 would hurry up and turn up. All these pictures and reports is painful to see/read!

  66. #66
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by gretch View Post
    Vikb,

    Great ride report on the Mach6... wow, that's an awful lot of frame protection... I always go the route of less is more, but that's personal choice.

    Interesting you mentioned the point of a "light" bike being harder to hold a line... I don't have a Mach 6, but my Intense Carbine (26.5lbs) I find to be a chore on hard charging descents that have a lot of chunder. I am now thinking I need to add some weight to my bike (LOL)... It does make for a great climber though. I'm a big guy at well north of 200 so I may be making the switch back to an aluminum frame next and get the weight back up to 28/29lbs. Crazy that I am even considering this, but for southern interior trails (Nelson, B.C.) it works better.
    Ya the frame protection is over the top, but I'm still not comfy with the idea of a carbon bike after decades on metal. I'm sure that's a phase that will pass, but if a few $$ and a few grams of protection make me feel better about riding a $3K frame I'm okay with that.

    I joked with a friend about finally getting a really light bike and then seeing the downsides...be careful what you wish for!

    I'm not quite ready to add lead shot to the frame and I am enjoying how much fresher I'm feeling at the end of a long ride.

    I figure getting more aggressive rubber on there is going to help a lot. Both in terms of straight up traction and adding some rotating weight to the wheels. If that lets me charge harder those wheels spinning faster will be more stable. I noticed that on the ride I posted about above. The faster I went the better the M6 rode, but it was dangerous because going off trail here at speed is likely to result in a hospital visit.

    I'm also going to soften the suspension as much as I can to ensure my front wheel tracks as well as possible.

    If necessary I'll consider going to a wider bar as well.

    At heart I am not a weight weenie. I just like to ride so I'm happy to tweak the M6 as needed to get the performance I want.


    Quote Originally Posted by DrewBird View Post
    I started with 2.35/2.25 front/rear Hans Dampfs on my M6, and have since swapped out the front for a Magic Mary. The Mary is AWESOME, under 100g heavier than a Dampf and just absolutely glued to the trail. Cornering knobs are big and mean and well-supported, not like those little nubs on the Dampf. That change really opened up the M6 for me; like you note, it's an agile bike, which can make it seem squirrelly if the tires are under-spec'd. But when you have tires you trust, it's just so so much fun!
    Good point. If I was facing the start of the winter here I'd consider something more aggressive. But things are drying out so the HDs [and eventually some 2.4" Trail Kings] are a good all around tire for me. I've had year round success with the wider TKs on the Nomad so I'll definitely give them a shot on the Mach 6.

    I can see how the M6 will be great once I sort out my confidence in its ability to stick to the trail.

    I got greedy specing skinnier rubber. My bad.

    OTOH - the M6 opens up the potential for epic long rides where the 2.2" TKs might be just the ticket as long as the trails are dry.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  67. #67
    mtbr member
    Reputation: DrewBird's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    974
    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Good point. If I was facing the start of the winter here I'd consider something more aggressive. But things are drying out so the HDs [and eventually some 2.4" Trail Kings] are a good all around tire for me. I've had year round success with the wider TKs on the Nomad so I'll definitely give them a shot on the Mach 6.

    I can see how the M6 will be great once I sort out my confidence in its ability to stick to the trail.

    I got greedy specing skinnier rubber. My bad.

    OTOH - the M6 opens up the potential for epic long rides where the 2.2" TKs might be just the ticket as long as the trails are dry.
    Cool, whatever works for you. I've found that Mary on the front to be a fine trail tire, I've hauled that thing up some sizable mountains and it rolls well enough and is light enough in the Snakeskin guise to work fine. And I've had no problems doing 5+hour rides with Dampfs front and back. Then again I also have a Ripley built light with skinny rubber for when I really want to cover the miles, so I enjoy fatter rubber on the M6.

  68. #68
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by DrewBird View Post
    Cool, whatever works for you. I've found that Mary on the front to be a fine trail tire, I've hauled that thing up some sizable mountains and it rolls well enough and is light enough in the Snakeskin guise to work fine. And I've had no problems doing 5+hour rides with Dampfs front and back. Then again I also have a Ripley built light with skinny rubber for when I really want to cover the miles, so I enjoy fatter rubber on the M6.
    I'm trying to stick with the one-bike-to-rule-them-all plan.

    I've done long rides on the Nomad and survived. I'm just trying to keep to a more efficient middle road - where I can.

    Although I am not planning on it right now having 2 wheelsets for the M6 with different tires isn't totally out of the question.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  69. #69
    mtbr member
    Reputation: wilks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,231

    Vik's Mach 6 Builds

    I was disappointed with the 2.2 TKs after loving the 2.4s. High Roller 2s work well in damp rocky conditions. I lalso ove my Hans Dampfs in 2.35. They are big. My only concern is they wear quickly. As for tire pressure I think it makes a huge difference particularly in damp / wet. I always go as low as I dare.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  70. #70
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Salespunk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    5,057
    Vik, one idea for you on the suspension setup. Try starting soft and moving up rather than firm moving down. Firm suspension is usually a band aid for bob inherent in VPP/FSR. With DW the linkage compensates allowing you use of much lower pressures and really requires it to keep from bouncing off line. Remember that there is much more mid stroke support built in as well and the bike will ride higher in general.

    I weight the exact same as you and run 155 PSI rear and 52 PSI front. This should equal just over 30% sag. Also DW likes very fast rebound even though it feels weird on pavement at first. Open the front and rear up significantly to maintain balance. Pivot suggests 4 clicks from wide open in the rear and front should be very similar. These sound like crazy numbers coming off VPP and I fought it a long time on my HD. Hopefully this helps with the setup.

  71. #71
    mtbr member
    Reputation: DrewBird's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    974
    SP, this is interesting; I've also been running my shock at higher pressure, about 200lbs (I'm 6'3" ~195 lbs.) which gives about 25% sag, just less than the red line on the sag indicator. I find that otherwise I'm bottoming out the shock on larger drops. It doesn't FEEL like harsh bottom-out, but my rubber band is blasted off the end of the shock. I should note that I often ride at a local park (Duthie Hill) which includes lots of gaps and drops, so the bottoming is generally on drops over 3' or so. Given this relatively high pressure, I've been using firmer rebound too, 7-8 out from full-firm on the shock. Otherwise I feel a "pogo" effect on landing drops, and sometimes feel like I'm getting ejected off jump transitions in unexpected directions.

    Is there a pivot-suggested setting for the Float X? I checked their suspension page but didn't see that listed.

  72. #72
    Kiwi that Flew
    Reputation: deanopatoni's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    740

    Vik's Mach 6 Builds

    ^^^SuperAwesome posts Vikb^^^

  73. #73
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    984
    Wow, tons of thought is going into riding this bike!

    I demo'd the Mach6 and I have the Mach5.7. Incidently I've ridden that trail on my Mach5.7 with 2.35 minions on the front, ardent rear, on wet but not muddy conditions and it was AWESOME.

    I don't think the bike being too light should be an issue, especially with a Pike! The TK should be able to handle that trail quite well.

    How much does your Mach6 weigh? My 5.7 is 27lbs, which many would consider to be heavy.

    If you're going to ride that trail when its really wet and muddy, you might want to consider downhill tires to give you more confidence. The Hans Dampfs are a good all round tire, in really muddy conditions I don't think it will excel either. The minion, or HR2 would be a better bet.
    Locals' Guide to North Shore Rides http://mtbtrails.ca/

  74. #74
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by Brodiegrrl View Post
    Wow, tons of thought is going into riding this bike!

    I demo'd the Mach6 and I have the Mach5.7. Incidently I've ridden that trail on my Mach5.7 with 2.35 minions on the front, ardent rear, on wet but not muddy conditions and it was AWESOME.

    I don't think the bike being too light should be an issue, especially with a Pike! The TK should be able to handle that trail quite well.

    How much does your Mach6 weigh? My 5.7 is 27lbs, which many would consider to be heavy.

    If you're going to ride that trail when its really wet and muddy, you might want to consider downhill tires to give you more confidence. The Hans Dampfs are a good all round tire, in really muddy conditions I don't think it will excel either. The minion, or HR2 would be a better bet.
    The light wheels/bike definitely get pushed off line more easily. The physics behind that is obvious. I agree that it shouldn't be a major problem with some time to adapt and the appropriate tires.

    Having said that I think it's worth noting the difference between a that and a heavier wheel/bike since the increased stability can be desirable depending on the trail/rider.

    The light bike gives you agility which can also be great.

    I got the HDs on. The LB rims setup tubeless easier than anything else I've used.

    For the weight weenies...27.5 x 2.35" HDs were 795g and 822g.

    TK's in 2.2" = 771g each.

    I've ridden Maple several times at least once in full on wet winter conditions. With the 35lbs Nomad and 2.4TKs it was no problem to ride. In fact the trail was perfect for that bike.

    The 2.4" TKs are the tire I'm most used and I've spent a couple winters on Van Isle riding them with total confidence. So I don't feel the need for full on DH tires. I just need a comparable wide all rounder to the 2.4" TKs which I think the HDs are.

    I would have just bought the wider TKs, but I couldn't find them in stock from any vendor I wanted to use.

    BTW - thanks for the maple video and GPS track you posted. It got us stoked to ride that trail the first time.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  75. #75
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    Vik, one idea for you on the suspension setup. Try starting soft and moving up rather than firm moving down. Firm suspension is usually a band aid for bob inherent in VPP/FSR. With DW the linkage compensates allowing you use of much lower pressures and really requires it to keep from bouncing off line. Remember that there is much more mid stroke support built in as well and the bike will ride higher in general.

    I weight the exact same as you and run 155 PSI rear and 52 PSI front. This should equal just over 30% sag. Also DW likes very fast rebound even though it feels weird on pavement at first. Open the front and rear up significantly to maintain balance. Pivot suggests 4 clicks from wide open in the rear and front should be very similar. These sound like crazy numbers coming off VPP and I fought it a long time on my HD. Hopefully this helps with the setup.
    I ran my Nomad's suspension very soft. Once I got the DHX Air 5 Avy'd the rear didn't have that VPP soft spot anymore.

    I checked my M6 suspension pressure post ride and I was just a couple PSI higher than what you recommend...so adjusting by feel on the trail we got to pretty much the same numbers. I like it!

    I've got the rebound set pretty fast. At least to me so we'll see how it does. I'll keep an open mind about setting it faster.

    I've got two rides booked for the weekend on the M6.

    Fairly challenging, but trails I ride regularly and not as long as the previous weekend so that will let me gauge the performance of the M6 well and make taking time to tweak the bike less of an issue.

    Thanks for all the feedback folks. It's appreciated.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  76. #76
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310


    The state of the beast today...



    I was asked for HD 2.35" clearance photos. Tons of clearance in the Pike for any reasonable 650B tire and probably even some unreasonable 3" rubber.



    Lots of clearance by the upper link & SS for the HD. My gut feeling is the 2.4" TKs are a bit wider, but they'll fit no issues as well.



    Lots of room in the lower link/CS area.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  77. #77
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310


    Excellent ride today on the Mach 6 and my GF got out on her's for its first shred as well.

    In the photo above is Bev the only other Pivot owner we know of on our island. It's a small tribe!

    Conditions were drier and less sustained DH shred.....more slow twisty climbing and descending on steep tech.

    The HDs roll great and grip well. No complaints putting them on the bike.

    I ran the suspension at the pressures stated above with no changes. Most of the time I ran the bike in descend at both ends. I tried Trail 1 on the Float X for some climbs. Didn't feel a huge difference on the bike despite and obvious change when testing it at a stop.

    Getting more confidence on the rig. Learning where to put my weight vs. the Nomad.

    Noticed the slack front end a bit more in the twisties, but it was so nice on the drops and descents it seems like a reasonable trade off.



    A few thoughts from today:

    - bike is dialled enough now for me to tackle anything I normally ride
    - need to just keep riding it and staying off the Nomad to get my reactions sync'd with the bike
    - brakes are so strong what would be light braking on the Nomad's Avids is OTB or rear skid on the XTRs
    - uber mild feathering is all I will need normally
    - large frame size is perfect w/ 65mm stem
    - I can get back and pop front wheel or get over the front wheel to plant it for aggressive turns
    - short rear end and short WB makes 180 deg switchbacks easy
    - agile bike and traction = nice precise riding
    - big wheels roll through tech great...fast and easy without many hang ups
    - faster I ride the better the bike feels
    - definitely not as plush as the Nomad at slow speeds...feels like driving a sports car...it's taut
    - what a waste the compression dampening is on the front/back on this bike if I am running them on wide open
    - I'm not really feeling that much faster than the Nomad, but definitely fresher at the end
    - long rides on the Mach 6 should be great
    - had the rear tire buzz my shorts a few times on the downhills...lol...need to be careful!



    My GF got jealous of the custom fork decals on my M6 so she got her own.

    When I mentioned the "34" sticker was supposed to be on the fork brace she let me know that was silly. A Hello Kitty sticker is going there.

    Overall she had a great ride. She's a bit behind getting used to the M6 so I'll wait to post her thoughts. We'll be doing a longer ride on them tomorrow.



    I know this is the Pivot forum, but I have to say that riding a new state of the art 2013/14 bike makes me appreciate how darn good my Nomad was/is for a bike that hasn't changed significantly from 2008/09 to basically just now with the release of the 27.5 Nomad MK3. With comparable parts it's not giving up that much to the M6.

    I was thinking of keeping the Nomad as my back up bike and winter bike. I may bling it out and keep it now. That glue to the ground VPP feeling may not be the fastest most efficient ride, but it's plush and in winter being glued to the trail is everything.

    I may even score a cheap Nomad Mk2 C frame if one crosses my path. 26ers are dead so hopefully I can get a deal.

    Having two great bikes to ride - wining!
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  78. #78
    mtbr member
    Reputation: KRob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    11,610
    Thanks for the update vik. Sounds like the HDs will solve some of the deflection/low traction feel of the stock tires. As you said, the 2.4 Trail Kings are really good for soaking up bumps and conforming to the trail surface, but the HD's are close.

    BTW, just checked out your blog. Nice work. Now following. And thanks for the encouragement for starting my own. It's in its infancy but it is up and running now.
    I will cause thee to ride upon the high places of the earth...
    Isaiah 58:14

    www.stuckinthespokes.com

  79. #79
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310


    We got out for some great rides on the Mach 6's this weekend.

    I'm getting more and more in tune with the bike and getting more out of it each ride.

    In particular I'm out climbing the Nomad on trails I've ridden lots. I think the difference is that the M6 is so much lighter and so efficient I can get an extra powerstroke [or two] in which is often the difference between success and failure on the crux of a techy climb. I'm also trying lines that before I didn't bother with and having some success.

    It's cool to see new lines and ride the old trails in a new way.

    I'm getting more confidence charging rocky downs. The big 650B front wheel is great for taming holes and transitions between rocks. The Hans Damfs are working well....lots of traction and they roll fast. Could be the carbon frame/Pike/carbon wheels, but the M6 is very precise which is nice for challenging lines that are skinny. I'm not getting knocked off my lines any more, but conditions are much drier than the ride I had issues on.

    The suspension seems pretty good so I've stopped messing with that. Thanks for the confirmation on settings SP.

    I did notice the 650B wheel/slack front end wasn't as agile in the super tight twisty sections as I'd like, but even my 26er Nomad suffers there. That's a reasonable compromise for how the M6 performs everywhere else.

    I do have an odd noise coming from my bike that I can't figure out. Might be my cables ziptied to the shock??? I've checked that everything is tight and I can't make it make the noise when I have the bike in the stand. It's not an awful noise, but I'm going to spend some time tracking it down this coming weekend.

    I'm headed to the North Shore in two weekends. I was thinking I'd stick with the Nomad because I am most familiar with it, but I changed my mind after this weekend's riding. I'm riding strong enough with the M6 to rock the shore and I don't want to keep swapping bikes so that I get in tune with the M6 as fast as possible.

    I've hung up the Nomad until the fall. I'm going to get the suspension serviced over the summer and have it ready for the sloppy winter here in the PNW. That will let me strip the suspension off the M6 and get it Avy'd as well as do a leisurely full tear down/rebuild of the M6. I'll take the M6 to Moab in Oct and I suspect we might end up in Sedona again at X'mas with M6s.



    My GF's enjoying her M6 as well. She had an unfortunate OTB incident [of course the one time she skips the elbow pads!] which I chalk up to the switch from weak brakes on the Nomad to new powerful stoppers. Don't worry the Mach 6 is fine!

    She's keen on some wider rubber as well - mostly for the loose downhill sections.

    She's started talking about custom tuning her suspension. She didn't MTB 4 years ago...I think I have created a monster....
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  80. #80
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by KRob View Post
    BTW, just checked out your blog. Nice work. Now following. And thanks for the encouragement for starting my own. It's in its infancy but it is up and running now.
    Thanks KRob - I've got your RSS feed setup in my blog reader.

    We are going to hit up Gooseberry on the way to Pivot Fest in Oct. I've heard lots of good things and I want to expose my GF to as many different riding areas as I can to increase the MTB road trip stoke.

    I'm going to show her your Hurricane post to.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  81. #81
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    147
    I do have an odd noise coming from my bike that I can't figure out. Might be my cables ziptied to the shock??? I've checked that everything is tight and I can't make it make the noise when I have the bike in the stand. It's not an awful noise, but I'm going to spend some time tracking it down this coming weekend.



    I'ts probably where the bottom part of the shock mounts to the yolk. Mine had the same problem and I did the "yolk isolator" trick and its been fine since. There is a link somewhere, just search Ripley yolk isolator. basically its just Stans tape wrapped around the bottom eyelet of the shock. I double wrapped it and used a hot very hot sharpened spoke to "clean out" the eyelet and just wedged it into the yolk.

  82. #82
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by stokerslo View Post
    I do have an odd noise coming from my bike that I can't figure out. Might be my cables ziptied to the shock??? I've checked that everything is tight and I can't make it make the noise when I have the bike in the stand. It's not an awful noise, but I'm going to spend some time tracking it down this coming weekend.



    I'ts probably where the bottom part of the shock mounts to the yolk. Mine had the same problem and I did the "yolk isolator" trick and its been fine since. There is a link somewhere, just search Ripley yolk isolator. basically its just Stans tape wrapped around the bottom eyelet of the shock. I double wrapped it and used a hot very hot sharpened spoke to "clean out" the eyelet and just wedged it into the yolk.
    Thanks for the tip...I recall reading about that on MTBR. I will track it down.

    What did your yoke problem sound like?
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  83. #83
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    147
    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Thanks for the tip...I recall reading about that on MTBR. I will track it down.

    What did your yoke problem sound like?
    Kind of a click sound not really a squeak. Oh yea I also put plumbers tape around the threads of the screw that attatches the shock to the yolk or clevis as specialized calls it. If you stand on the side of the bike and sort of push on the pedals to one side it would make the sound. To test just loosin the screw that holds the yolk to the shock , and the sound will go away when you push on the pedals again. Do the yolk isolator trick and u should b good.

  84. #84
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310


    We have some folks in our extended riding group that needed some skills building time so we decided to session all the features on a few intermediate trails and then finish off with a ride to put the skills to good use.



    It was a slow ride, but is was good to see folks overcome their fears and gain confidence. [^^^^ this is not Brett Tippie! ]



    The time invested in coaching other riders pays off when you see them ripping trails they were walking lots on before.



    Our trails are feature rich so being able to ride tech efficiently is the difference between having fun and being pummelled. The tech is relentless...



    I'm posting only the Pivot pics here, but if you want to see more photos click here.



    The riding wasn't epic, but the forest was really pretty today with some nice light.



    After a few days of rain the trails were pretty wet. The Hans Damfs were awesome and my GF is eagerly awaiting hers so she can stop sliding around so much.



    This was a pretty bright day in the forest so you might be able to understand why we want brightly coloured bikes. It never gets lighter than this and mostly it's quite a bit darker!



    Going slow and riding the same feature several times is great for finding new fun lines that you miss when blasting through in a group.



    The Mach 6's worked great today other than my GF's tires. Both of us are getting used to the new rides and doing some of our best riding.



    That's nice to see so early in the season.



    For anyone who rides tight techy forests the M6 is a good choice with a short TT and short CS for compact wheelbase.



    It's an agile efficient climber and slack enough to pick your way down chunky lines.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  85. #85
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Had one issue on yesterday's ride. I have the Float X setup when for most riding, but one area it's not awesome is on g-outs. I'm bottoming the shock fairly easily. Yet for everything else the bike feels great and I am already at the point where I would not describe the ride as plush.

    I'm going to bump the pressure 5psi to 160psi and see what that feels like.

    The DW Link suspension doesn't ramp up at the end of the stroke like my Nomad's VPP and the Float X also feels linear right up to the bottom out "Thunk!!".
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  86. #86
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Salespunk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    5,057
    DW typically has a falling rate at the end to compensate for the ramp of air springs. Try reducing the volume of the air can slightly to get additional ramp at the end.

  87. #87
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    DW typically has a falling rate at the end to compensate for the ramp of air springs. Try reducing the volume of the air can slightly to get additional ramp at the end.
    I'm going to try reducing the volume of the air can.

    When I spoke to Craig at Avalanche about the M6 he described it as "a low leverage linear system".
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  88. #88
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310


    Great ride today. 21 riders showed up for a club ride that has never seen more than 12 folks at once.

    Lot's of interest in our Pivots.

    I'm going to keep rolling with the extra 5psi in the shock. Seems like a good trade off between traction and bottoming out too easily.

    Very sloppy conditions. I guess winter isn't done with us just yet.

    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  89. #89
    bad reputation
    Reputation: turfnsurf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    385
    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    I'm going to try reducing the volume of the air can.

    When I spoke to Craig at Avalanche about the M6 he described it as "a low leverage linear system".
    How do you change the air pressure in the can?
    I've been gradually increasing the pressure in my shock by 5 PSI weekly. At about 185 pounds in gear (including full camelback) I'm currently at 190PSI in the shock. I have the rear brake & der cables tied to the top tube (using zip ties loosely attached to zip ties, to allow for free movement) so they won't push the O-ring off the shock body, but I still sometimes find the O-ring off the end of the shock.
    Our local club had a Bike festival a few weeks ago in Aptos (Post Office Jumps) and I spoke with one of the Fox Reps who was there, he said that spacers or something similar to what RockShox calls "Bottomless Tokens" could be added to the Float X to ramp up the bottom of the travel without messing with the small bump compliance or reducing travel. He also said that the shock has a Custom Tune ID on a sticker which Fox could use to identify if a particular shock has such spacer things installed or not. I checked mine out today and it says: Custom Tune ID: CNBF. I searched this number on Fox's website, but it just gives generic info on the Float X. I'm curious if all M6's come with the same tune, or if different sized frames have different tuned shocks. At any rate, I plan to look into adding a spacer or whatever he called it. Has anybody else messed with this?
    I will say that I recently added a token to my Pike 160 and that made a huge difference to the fork. This week I finally got the confidence to hit a log gap jump that I previously only felt comfortable hitting on the Nomad. Plus small bump compliance is awesome now. I got home from the ride and listed my Nomad for sale!

  90. #90
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by turfnsurf View Post
    How do you change the air pressure in the can?
    Add a spacer that takes up some of the air volume like the Pike tokens.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  91. #91
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Salespunk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    5,057
    Quote Originally Posted by turfnsurf View Post
    How do you change the air pressure in the can?
    I've been gradually increasing the pressure in my shock by 5 PSI weekly. At about 185 pounds in gear (including full camelback) I'm currently at 190PSI in the shock. I have the rear brake & der cables tied to the top tube (using zip ties loosely attached to zip ties, to allow for free movement) so they won't push the O-ring off the shock body, but I still sometimes find the O-ring off the end of the shock.
    Our local club had a Bike festival a few weeks ago in Aptos (Post Office Jumps) and I spoke with one of the Fox Reps who was there, he said that spacers or something similar to what RockShox calls "Bottomless Tokens" could be added to the Float X to ramp up the bottom of the travel without messing with the small bump compliance or reducing travel. He also said that the shock has a Custom Tune ID on a sticker which Fox could use to identify if a particular shock has such spacer things installed or not. I checked mine out today and it says: Custom Tune ID: CNBF. I searched this number on Fox's website, but it just gives generic info on the Float X. I'm curious if all M6's come with the same tune, or if different sized frames have different tuned shocks. At any rate, I plan to look into adding a spacer or whatever he called it. Has anybody else messed with this?
    I will say that I recently added a token to my Pike 160 and that made a huge difference to the fork. This week I finally got the confidence to hit a log gap jump that I previously only felt comfortable hitting on the Nomad. Plus small bump compliance is awesome now. I got home from the ride and listed my Nomad for sale!
    That is a lot of pressure in the rear shock. I am 200 lbs riding weight and only running 145 PSI. I do tend to use a little less pressure than most, but that is a huge swing considering how light you are. It does sound like you are hitting some big features though.

  92. #92
    bad reputation
    Reputation: turfnsurf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    385
    That's the funny thing, I don't hit big gaps or drops. I saw a post where you were up in my neck of the woods after Sea Otter riding UCSC, which is in my backyard. I hit a lot of stuff here but nothing huge. Not a big fan of large gaps and we don't have table tops here. A lot of our features have flat landings, which might be a factor.

    I'm gonna try to direct the Float X portion of the this thread here:Non-Fox Shock on Mach 6

    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    That is a lot of pressure in the rear shock. I am 200 lbs riding weight and only running 145 PSI. I do tend to use a little less pressure than most, but that is a huge swing considering how light you are. It does sound like you are hitting some big features though.
    Last edited by turfnsurf; 04-21-2014 at 12:40 PM. Reason: Add link to Shock thread

  93. #93
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Just a couple notes:

    #1 - My LBS is getting me the XX1/XO1 spacer from Pivot to prevent chain to dropout wear after I made them aware it exists. It still boggles my mind that you buy a $3K+ frame and have to hunt around for small parts like a direct mount dérailleur cover and an 11 speed cassette spacer. Folks that are spending over $3K on a frame are very likely going to install a 1x system and most will be XX1/XO1. I'm not sure what Pivot's thinking, but pissing off your customers is not the way to grow a boutique brand that commands top dollar. Bundle the small parts with the frames stock even if you have to up the cost a few bucks.

    #2 - My mechanic found a spacer kit for the Float X so I'm going to get it and reduce the volume of the shock for better end stroke ramp up. Enough folks are having issues with bottoming out their M6's that Pivot needs to look at reducing the air cans stock on the bigger frame sizes that will see heavier riders.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  94. #94
    bad reputation
    Reputation: turfnsurf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    385
    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Just a couple notes:

    #1 - My LBS is getting me the XX1/XO1 spacer from Pivot to prevent chain to dropout wear after I made them aware it exists. It still boggles my mind that you buy a $3K+ frame and have to hunt around for small parts like a direct mount dérailleur cover and an 11 speed cassette spacer. Folks that are spending over $3K on a frame are very likely going to install a 1x system and most will be XX1/XO1. I'm not sure what Pivot's thinking, but pissing off your customers is not the way to grow a boutique brand that commands top dollar. Bundle the small parts with the frames stock even if you have to up the cost a few bucks.
    Vik,

    Couple things also!

    1) Please explain the 11 speed spacer, are you saying it would go between the hub and the frame? Is the problem specific with the type of hub your using? Curious, because I've had all the other M6 creaks, cable routing, & other minor complaints, but this is new news to me.

    2) I appreciate the DM cover you sent. I haven't forgotten to send a pic with thanks, but the screws I ordered were from China. The damn things got lost in customs or some BS I'm told. That's what I get for not staying local. Anyway, replacements are on the way, as is my pic & thanks!

    3) Your bikes are looking awesome, I don't think I've seen anybody put as much love into their bikes as you. Even your Nomad looks sick. These MTBR Pivot forums have inspired me to take better care of my rides. Now if I could just learn to ride better

  95. #95
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Salespunk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    5,057
    It varies by rear hub. Pivot have made a small washer which is bonded to the frame which they will send out for free if you call them. I have a feeling that as a running change we will see this incorporated into the frame long term since it would just be bonding a different axle mount and not a change to the carbon (read does not require a new mold)

  96. #96
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by turfnsurf View Post
    Vik,

    Couple things also!

    1) Please explain the 11 speed spacer, are you saying it would go between the hub and the frame? Is the problem specific with the type of hub your using? Curious, because I've had all the other M6 creaks, cable routing, & other minor complaints, but this is new news to me.

    2) I appreciate the DM cover you sent. I haven't forgotten to send a pic with thanks, but the screws I ordered were from China. The damn things got lost in customs or some BS I'm told. That's what I get for not staying local. Anyway, replacements are on the way, as is my pic & thanks!

    3) Your bikes are looking awesome, I don't think I've seen anybody put as much love into their bikes as you. Even your Nomad looks sick. These MTBR Pivot forums have inspired me to take better care of my rides. Now if I could just learn to ride better
    #1 - put your dérailleur onto the smallest cog in the rear [hardest gear]...have a look at the clearance between the chain and the inside of the dropout. If you are having clearance issues Pivot has a spacer to install that moves the dropout outwards slightly to generate some extra clearance. If you have enough clearance as is just ignore.

    My understanding so far is that this is just an issue with XX1/XO1 bikes. Also my GF's complete XO1 build came with the spacer installed so probably only a problem if you bought a frame/shock.

    #2 - No worries at all. I found a bolt in my spares bin that worked! #lucky

    #3 - Hahaha.....thanks We spend so much time mountain biking that tweaking/pimping our bikes seems normal. I guess that's what folks without kids do with all their free time! The Nomad is actually pretty beat up. but it still looks good from 5' away...one of the benefits of only seeing bikes in photos is you don't see all the minor damage.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  97. #97
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    735
    Vik, what Q factor did you get for your crank? I was going to order a 168 since I figured that would be better for a bigger rider, but was told I needed a 156 due to possible chain rub. Once I put everything together, it made sense and saw the potential problem. I have a Hope Hub with a 156Q and don't seem to have any chain rub yet.

  98. #98
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310
    Quote Originally Posted by dawgman25 View Post
    Vik, what Q factor did you get for your crank? I was going to order a 168 since I figured that would be better for a bigger rider, but was told I needed a 156 due to possible chain rub. Once I put everything together, it made sense and saw the potential problem. I have a Hope Hub with a 156Q and don't seem to have any chain rub yet.
    I haven't measured my Q-factor. I have Race Face Next SL cranks and I don't think there are any options for different Q-factors.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  99. #99
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    10,310


    Been getting in some great riding lately. Doing the best climbing I've ever done. Charging up techy sections I never would have bothered with before.

    The lightweight, precise steering, short wheelbase and DW link suspension is a killer combo.



    My GF is getting the hang of her M6 and enjoying it a lot. We've had a hard time getting her some Hans Damfs, but I think we got 'em licked and she'll be rocking once she gets them and is riding with some serious traction.



    I'm pretty satisfied with the bike at the moment. The suspension is on the firm side, but I'm going to wait until I get those Float X volume spacers to mess with it. I'd rather have the suspension a bit firm and balanced. Once I get the Float X to ramp up at the end of the stroke I'll try softening both ends a bit at a time until I am happy.



    I noticed another spot the internal cables are rubbing [see white rub mark] so I threw some tape on the yoke to prevent more wear.

    I've gotta say the internal cable routing on the M6 is an embarrassment. It's beyond useless. **shakes head**

    First excuse I have to rerun the cables I will pull them and run them as shown below.



    I found some stick on cable guides I hope will be secure enough to work so I can avoid the ugly zipties.



    If you are riding someplace wet and want a front fender with great coverage try one of these Canadian Shields. Love it so far...



    Keep them Pivots rolling...
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  100. #100
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Salespunk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    5,057
    Vik I finally got my routing dialed. You have to have the cables come out of the internal routing on the same side as they mount on the yoke and then they should be tight, but not stretched when the suspension is fully extended. I am actually very satisfied with it now and I don't even have the standoff mounted for the rear brake. It also stopped rubbing on the rear shock by the yoke as well. My travel has been perfect with 145 PSI (200 lb rider weight with camelback etc). That is including the 3-5' drops we were hitting today. I was using 99% of the travel without knocking the o-ring off the shaft.

    Also, if you are rubbing the yoke there it might be the cables knocking the o-ring off and not the fact you are using all of the travel.

Page 1 of 6 12345 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 6
    Last Post: 10-13-2013, 10:04 AM
  2. Replies: 26
    Last Post: 09-27-2013, 01:55 PM
  3. Mach 4 and Mach 5.7 Frame Weights? (Alloy)
    By ccarbot in forum Pivot Cycles
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 07-07-2013, 04:58 PM
  4. Replies: 7
    Last Post: 02-18-2013, 11:44 PM
  5. another sizing question Mach 5.7 vs mach 5.
    By snoroqc in forum Pivot Cycles
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 01-11-2012, 01:43 PM

Members who have read this thread: 197

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •