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  1. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by turfnsurf View Post
    The 1'st CA Enduro series event at Reno (Peavine Mtn.) was a lot of fun but the Mach 6 was too much bike, thus not really my riding style preference. A 4-5" Trail bike could have dominated the course. I pedaled my butt off and came in 7'th out of 19.

    Last weekend was race 2 at China Peak. A 3-stage course that with lots of super loose, sharp & rocky switchbacks and a nice technical rock garden section. I ran stage 1 & 2 in trail mode on the shock and Pedal mode on my 160mm Pike. Opened them both up for the rock garden on stage 3 and wound up getting a 2'nd place finish, super stoked.

    A bit bummed about the broken Carbon wheel on the pre-ride, but glad it didn't happen on race day. I was running 26-30 PSI and still feel it wasn't enough for the rocky sections. Waiting to here how NOX will handle the wheel...Warrantee or discounted crash replacement (I didn't crash!) Fortunately I brought a backup Aluminum wheelset.

    Funny that out of roughly 250+ participants, mine has been the only M6 at race 1 & 2. I've seen a handful of new Nomads, which will probably kill the next event at Northstar and the following event at Mammoth, I've been hoping to share some Pivot stoke, but no luck yet!
    How did it happen? ( I mean, the broken wheel )

  2. #177
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    Rolled off a 5' tall granite slab right onto a hardpack/rocky section that was all part of the course. Must have hit a rock pretty hard to do that damage. Good news from NOX that they are going to provide a new rim under warrantee. Super happy about that. NOX also told me that they redesigned the rim to increase sidewall strength.

  3. #178
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    Great!!!

  4. #179
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    Nice thread.. we had a few peeps send us links to this thread so thought we'd chime in.

    This rim failure is a great example of why we changed our construction technique about 6 months ago. We now use an overwrapped hookless bead. Getting rid of all seams near the bead eliminates the delamination which was most likely the precursor to this failure. All stuff shipping now (and for last 4-5 months) is made using new techniques and we haven't had issues. We appreciate you guys riding hard and helping us improve our rims!
    Nox Composites
    Carbon Fiber Mountain Rims and Wheels

  5. #180
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    I appreciate you guys backing your products so solidly. With all the new choices for Carbon wheels as of late, I'm glad I chose you guys...NOX Rocks!

  6. #181
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    I noticed that the rear Hans Damf tire was picking up rocks and dragging them across the seatstay on each side [bike is upside down in the pic] so I applied a couple Lizard Skin patches to prevent further damage.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  7. #182
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    That damaged Hans Damf died today. Casing let go so the tire bulged massively in the area of the puncture. Still held air fine, but the tire rubbed the CS every revolution.

    Thought my day was done until another rider pulled a spare 650B tire out of his van. You know 650B is here when there are spare tires floating around on a day ride.

    I'm chalking this up to bad luck and I loved the HD other than this so I'm going to try another.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  8. #183
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    What did your final suspension settings look like Vic? Did you end up using a bottomless token in the Pike? I remember seeing you changed out the volume spacer in the Float X. I was just trying to find a baseline so I have somewhere to start from. Thanks.

  9. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by llll Hate llll View Post
    What did your final suspension settings look like Vic? Did you end up using a bottomless token in the Pike? I remember seeing you changed out the volume spacer in the Float X. I was just trying to find a baseline so I have somewhere to start from. Thanks.
    I don't have all my suspension settings at hand, but I used 2 tokens in the Pike and a large volume reduction spacer in the Float X. I ride the Pike in the open setting with the least amount of LSC. The Float X I typically ride in Trail 1 or Descend. Fairly quick rebound on both fork & shock.

    I shoot for ~25% sag at each end.

    With the volume spacer added to the Float X I have a supple initial stroke and have never bottomed out the shock since I made the change. No matter how hard I ride.

    The bike feels taut more than plush, but I prefer it that way.

    I'm pretty happy with things. I haven't messed with them for a while.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  10. #185
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    The GF and I got our M6's out to the Chilcotins for a 5 day float plane assisted camping trip. Lots of fun was had. The M6's did great on the longer smoother trails and were ready to rock when things got steep and rough.



    Trip photos are here.











    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  11. #186
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    Vik's Mach 6 Builds

    Always wanted to get on a float plane. U guys are spoiled with the terrain around I need to relocate.

  12. #187
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    Looks like an awesome trip Vik!

  13. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    Looks like an awesome trip Vik!
    Thanks SP. I'm not an awesome rider so I need to take my M6 to awesome places to keep my awesome quotient high!
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  14. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5power View Post
    Always wanted to get on a float plane. U guys are spoiled with the terrain around I need to relocate.
    I've considered moving to access better job opportunities, but every time I do I realize how good I have it with the biking opportunities close to home.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  15. #190
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    hey vikb - I can't thank you enough for all the detailed pictures you post on your build. it's been an immense help as reference for my build. THANK YOU

    with that, i'd love your and any other members opinion on the best routing method to run the brakes moto style...? Nothing really on the right side to route the LH=Rear brake and back over to the non drive side. Didn't find any postings on mtbr about it either. Would be great to hear your take. Thanks!

  16. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by umicheng View Post
    hey vikb - I can't thank you enough for all the detailed pictures you post on your build. it's been an immense help as reference for my build. THANK YOU

    with that, i'd love your and any other members opinion on the best routing method to run the brakes moto style...? Nothing really on the right side to route the LH=Rear brake and back over to the non drive side. Didn't find any postings on mtbr about it either. Would be great to hear your take. Thanks!
    No problemo. I get lots of useful info from other MTBRer's posts/builds which is why I take the time to share mine. Glad it helped.



    If I wanted to run my brakes moto I'd just cross the housing at the bottom and run each one up the side of the frame's DT I wanted it on. Like in the photo above, but crossed at bottom near BB. You could skip the lowest stick on guide and just zip tie the two housings together where they cross.

    The rear brake would then run up the right side of the DT and the rear derailleur would run up the left side of the DT.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  17. #192
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    Vik's Mach 6 Builds

    I cross the housing on all my mtn bikes. I'm from England but have lived in the US almost 20 years and don't understand why brakes aren't set up moto on bicycles here. My road bikes are moto too. The first time a friend borrowed my old 5 Spot he went otb in the first mile.

  18. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by wilks View Post
    I cross the housing on all my mtn bikes. I'm from England but have lived in the US almost 20 years and don't understand why brakes aren't set up moto on bicycles here. My road bikes are moto too. The first time a friend borrowed my old 5 Spot he went otb in the first mile.
    I was on an advanced MTB course this summer and 1 instructor was English and their brakes were moto style. Caused all sorts of confusion with the participants.

    I ride a motorcycle daily, but I never confuse the MTB and the moto
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  19. #194
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    Vik's Mach 6 Builds

    Yeah. It's what your used to but having ridden bmx, road etc as a kid in England I wasn't about to relearn how to apply brakes. I am renting bikes in Moab and fruita next month and put in the swap request for the brakes.

  20. #195
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    yep! I just can't grasp the fact the front brake is on my LEFT side. I can make myself utilize the rear brake on the right, but I just get all confused when I need to use both. Enough where I'm just going to switch and make my life easier.

    I'm frequently on the race track with my sportbike, and have the same issues if I change bikes to riding GP (reverse) vs standard shifting. I think some people just rely more on muscle memory than others.

    This XS frame is a b*tch. Stared at it for a while last night and putting cables, I'm not sure if I'd be able to get my shock out. Theres like 2mm of space in between the shock and frame. I decided to route the RD cable through the frame straight over the shock...and I think im going to use a stick on, on the body of the shock to hold at that point to prevent rubbing. If I route my brake housing through there too, Im not sure how we'll they'll both hold together with the frame movement....but I'll keep you posted. ugh wish there were better solutions!

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