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  1. #201
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    I like the Vik Approved sticker seems like we have similar taste I also have a nomad 3. Great bike but love my M6 more. I can't decide what to do with the float x either waiting to demo a 2016 M6 to see if its worth the change. If not I'll do new link and ccdb.

    I switch to Continental Trail Kings 2.4 from Hans also I like the price and grip. Only problem is my sidewalls are fuzzy and beat looking. I do ride lots of rocks, kinda disappointed in the wear.

  2. #202
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    I went from Hans Dampfs to High Roller 2s. I feel they are a little undersized but seem to work well although we've had next to no rain in the north east this summer.

  3. #203
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    I've got an Avy'd Float X on my M6. I've had it since Spring. It is better, but not "oh my gawd where have you been all my life better."

  4. #204
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    [QUOTE=vikb;12217133]

    Wow my last post in this thread was back in January.
    =============================================
    w/ no one else posting either!
    breezy shade

  5. #205
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    That's the way it goes.
    I guess M6 isn't as hot as it used to be.

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by jazzanova View Post
    That's the way it goes.
    I guess M6 isn't as hot as it used to be.
    For whatever reason Pivot riders don't seem to get their brand stoke on like say the Knolly folks. The M6 is as good as the Warden [if not better] and the number of M6 riders is at least as big, but there is like 5% of the stoke for the M6 vs. that Knolly AM rig.

    Puzzles me, but if you get jazzed by the online brand community aspect of bikes than Pivot is not great at that.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  7. #207
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    So, why the switch in cable routing? I just built up my M6 a month ago and went with the down tube model that you had before. Did you have problems with the previous routing? At this point, my only concern is possible rubbing on the seat stay pivots by the seat tube.

  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeepnut22 View Post
    So, why the switch in cable routing? I just built up my M6 a month ago and went with the down tube model that you had before. Did you have problems with the previous routing? At this point, my only concern is possible rubbing on the seat stay pivots by the seat tube.


    Old pic. I just grabbed one that showed the shock since I'm thinking about doing some suspension upgrades.

    My routing is still external on the DT. Has worked great and I'm never going back to internal routing on this bike.

    I'm glad Pivot changed the goofy internal routing for something more sensible. It would be nice to have a factory external routing option like the new Knolly Endo has, but a better internal routing is fine.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by wilks View Post
    I went from Hans Dampfs to High Roller 2s. I feel they are a little undersized but seem to work well although we've had next to no rain in the north east this summer.
    Maxxis is coming out with some bigger rubber for all those wider rims we are using:

    Maxxis Minion DHF and DHR2 'Wide Trail'

    I've got enough rubber in my garage to get me through 2016 so I'm not really in the market unless I destroy a bunch of tires unexpectedly.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  10. #210
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    ^^ picture to prove I'm still riding the Mach 6.

    I've got the bike pretty much dialled with very few complaints.

    The one thing that is still bugging me is the chainline on my bike. So I figured I would throw this question out to see what ideas other M6 owners had.

    My bike:

    - 2014 M6
    - Cranks = RF Next SL 1x w/ RF 28T ring
    - Cassette = SRAM XX1

    The Terrain

    I ride very steep techy PNW trails so I am usually in my lowest 3-4 gears. Unless I travel I rarely have open fast trails to ride where I get to use the high range of the cassette.

    The Problem

    Chainline in the lowest 2 gears [42/36] is terrible. The ring is too far outboard of the BB pushing the chain outwards when in these 2 gears. Result is noise, crappy shifting and extra drivetrain wear. Also chain wants to downshift when I back pedal which is a hassle.

    Solutions

    Idea 1: get a 26T ring and use the middle of the cassette more.

    - easy to do
    - cheap
    - makes the bike less versatile for travelling to places I can ride faster
    - not sure how a small ring affects DW link performance??

    Idea 2: try and find a 28t ring with an offset compared to the RF rings so I can move the chainline inboard a few mm.

    - Wolf's Tooth RF cinch compatible rings seem to have a 2mm offset
    - not sure if there are some other options for offset rings?


    Any other ideas/suggestions? I'd like to keep costs/hassle factor low and use up the parts I have if possible.

    Thanks in advance for any help.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  11. #211
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    Vik, what Q factor are your cranks? I have the full XX1 package and the 156 Q cranks. I have had no issues with my lower 2 gears. Riding in the PNW, I too use a majority of the 4 lowest gears with a 30T front ring. Isn't the Next SL a 168? Pivot told me specifically to get a 156 Q for the Mach 6.

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by dawgman25 View Post
    Vik, what Q factor are your cranks? I have the full XX1 package and the 156 Q cranks. I have had no issues with my lower 2 gears. Riding in the PNW, I too use a majority of the 4 lowest gears with a 30T front ring. Isn't the Next SL a 168? Pivot told me specifically to get a 156 Q for the Mach 6.
    Q-Factor is irrelevant when in comes to the chainline as it measures to the outside of the crank. So a thicker crank like the Next SL has a bigger Q-Factor even if the chainring is in the same location as a thinner crank.

    What matters is the chainline. The Next SL with a RF DM ring is 51mm. The WT ring for the Next SL is 49mm so it's 2mm inboard.

    My GF got the XO1 complete M6 from Pivot and she has the same chainline issues. She's since replaced the XO1 crank with a RF Turbine Cinch so whatever I end up using to solve my issue will get ported over to her bike as well.

    Ultimately I'm not looking to swap the cranks on either bike as that's too much $$ to deal with when there are simple solutions like using different rings.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  13. #213
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    Strange, not having this problem at all with my set up. Thought it might be the Q Factor but I guess not. I just replaced my front ring with a new one and it made a world of difference. I had to dry lube it every 2 or 3 rides to keep it quiet and with a new chain ring, it is silent again like the day I built the bike.

    I don't know enough to know if my chainline is bad, but it is is silent and have no problem shifting in my lowest gears or back pedaling. From what I understand, the front ring will go bad well before the cassette will. I just had my chain measured for stretch after around 1500 miles and it is perfect. Cassette is in good shape too, and I am riding all year around with this bike.

    Good luck on fixing the problem.

  14. #214
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    32T Wolftooth ring is working perfectly with my RF Sixc cinch cranks and XTR 11-40 rear cassette/shifter. Also plays nice with E13 top chain guide/lower bash.

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by dawgman25 View Post
    I don't know enough to know if my chainline is bad, but it is is silent and have no problem shifting in my lowest gears or back pedaling.
    If you have no issues shifting/noise I would say you were good.

    If you have a chainline problem it will be obvious.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmovich View Post
    32T Wolftooth ring is working perfectly with my RF Sixc cinch cranks and XTR 11-40 rear cassette/shifter. Also plays nice with E13 top chain guide/lower bash.
    Thanks. Ya I think the WT ring is my next move.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  17. #217
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    Vikb--which BB are you using? I'm using the RF 30/BB92. It was the easiest cheapest way to start. So far no trouble but I know there are others with supposed larger bearing surface, more durability, etc etc.

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmovich View Post
    Vikb--which BB are you using? I'm using the RF 30/BB92. It was the easiest cheapest way to start. So far no trouble but I know there are others with supposed larger bearing surface, more durability, etc etc.
    The SixC has a 48.5mm chainline vs. the 51mm chainline on the Next SL so that would likely solve the issue on its own - I think. By going to a WT ring I'll be only moving to a 49mm chainline. With the same ring you'd be at 46.5mm.

    I'm using the RF BB. So far I have had no issues with it.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  19. #219
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    Vik, I've ordered a Garbaruk Melon ring to try an elliptical and correct my chainline. Same issues as you're having and I'll let you know how it works out. It hopefully will be here this week. As an interim measure I moved the spacer on my BSA 30 BB from the drive side to non and my chain line is better. You probably can't do that but I have an old fashioned threaded BB on the Warden. One-Up is coming out with new rings in 16 and I'm hoping they will have something that addresses this. Here is the Grabaruk.

    Race Face Cinch Melon
    I got some bad ideas in my head.

  20. #220
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    I have a XT crankset with a RF NW...after going 1x11 my chainlink sucked in the 35 and 40T. I just added some spacers in-between my chainring and cranks and my chainline is much improved.

    Also looking for revised chainlink chainrings in '16, hoping my current set up holds up until they come out. If I have to I will change crankset but looking for a cheaper alternative...either the M8000 or go Cinch if I go crankset.

  21. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by Travis Bickle View Post
    Vik, I've ordered a Garbaruk Melon ring to try an elliptical and correct my chainline. Same issues as you're having and I'll let you know how it works out. It hopefully will be here this week. As an interim measure I moved the spacer on my BSA 30 BB from the drive side to non and my chain line is better. You probably can't do that but I have an old fashioned threaded BB on the Warden. One-Up is coming out with new rings in 16 and I'm hoping they will have something that addresses this. Here is the Grabaruk.

    Race Face Cinch Melon
    Thanks Jerry. Good suggestion.

    I've ordered a WT 28T elliptical ring. We can compare notes.

    The WT 28T has a 49mm chainline and the Garbunk 28T has a 47.1mm chainline so if I need to move more than 2mm over from the stock RF Next SL chainline of 51mm I'll try the Garbunk.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  22. #222
    Anytime. Anywhere.
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    The Garbaruk Cinch Melon 28t arrived and is installed. I haven't been out for a ride yet but it fits fine and and it sits inboard about 3mm more than the RF. My chainline with the BB spacer on the proper drive side is now fine. I just installed XT 11 speed as well. May see how it handles wet mud today.
    I got some bad ideas in my head.

  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by Travis Bickle View Post
    The Garbaruk Cinch Melon 28t arrived and is installed. I haven't been out for a ride yet but it fits fine and and it sits inboard about 3mm more than the RF. My chainline with the BB spacer on the proper drive side is now fine. I just installed XT 11 speed as well. May see how it handles wet mud today.
    Nice. Enjoy the ride if you get out. The rain is so epic here today I am taking care of inside projects.

    My WT ring is working its way to me from the US. I'm switching to the Nomad for Van Isle winter sloppiness anyways.

    But I'm hoping to spend 3 weeks+ in Moab/Sedona over X'mas and I'll take the Mach 6 for that trip.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post

    But I'm hoping to spend 3 weeks+ in Moab/Sedona over X'mas and I'll take the Mach 6 for that trip.
    If you have time, come 45 minutes west of Sedona and visit Prescott AZ...we've got great trails here and we have a "mini Moab" called the Dells with lots of technical riding and rock features.

    Just a taste...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwnLwULXhEM

  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    But I'm hoping to spend 3 weeks+ in Moab/Sedona over X'mas and I'll take the Mach 6 for that trip.
    I took my Mach 6 to Prescott and Sedona a few weeks ago. It did awesome. Such an amazing technical climber.

    And what the guy above recommended, check out Prescott if you have time. I rode the Constellation Trails. What a technical masterpiece.

  26. #226
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    Thanks for the Prescot suggestion I should have time to explore.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  27. #227
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    Just shipped my GF's Float X off to Avy for modding. Feeling jealous. I'm the one who is supposed to have the most bling'd out bikes in this house.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  28. #228
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Just shipped my GF's Float X off to Avy for modding. Feeling jealous. I'm the one who is supposed to have the most bling'd out bikes in this house.
    so get "yourself" an 11/6. you'll be back on top
    breezy shade

  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by nhodge View Post
    so get "yourself" an 11/6. you'll be back on top
    I have no idea what an "11/6" is???
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  30. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    I have no idea what an "11/6" is???

    WHAAAT?!? go to the "PUSH" site & check it out. don't tell your wife
    breezy shade

  31. #231
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    Quote Originally Posted by nhodge View Post
    WHAAAT?!? go to the "PUSH" site & check it out. don't tell your wife
    Nice. If I had the $$ I would have sent my Float X to Avy with the GF's so a $1200 shock really isn't in the cards.

    I'll just have to appreciate her shock for now.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  32. #232
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    ya, it's a spendy piece, but mighty nice.
    breezy shade

  33. #233
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    I send my ccdb cs tuned Xoneracing for 380$

  34. #234
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    Avalanche is where I would send my shock and it's ~$299USD + shipping. I can't really justify that at the moment when the shock is otherwise working fine.

    That's the problem with being consultant....sometimes it's raining money and sometimes it's not.

    At the moment I'm building up a bit of a stash so I can weather a dry spell I see coming at me financially. On the plus side I should have more free time to ride in the new year until I get more work lined up.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  35. #235
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    Vik,

    I ran across this in the derailleur forum. I remembered you said, you had problems with your shifting. Read this and see if this helps.
    XX1/X01 Shifting Problems? READ THIS!

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wcslv View Post
    Vik,

    I ran across this in the derailleur forum. I remembered you said, you had problems with your shifting. Read this and see if this helps.
    XX1/X01 Shifting Problems? READ THIS!
    Thanks for the link.

    I got my Wolf Tooth offset chainring in, but I haven't installed it yet. I want to see if simply moving the chainline over towards the NDS of the bike solves my problem, but if it doesn't I'll try adjusting the B-tension screw with the bike sagged.

    Thanks also for the reminder. I've been riding my winter bike and forgot that I need to work on the Mach 6 before I head to UT/AZ at Christmas.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  37. #237
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    No problem. I'm just waiting for my Mach 4C frame show up.

  38. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Just wanted to relay a great customer service story.

    Craig from Avalanche Racing had my GF's Fox for an upgrade to his SSD system. Saw this thread and tracked down a replacement cap from one of his customers. Got the cap shipped to him and provided to us.....for free.

    That's awesome.

    I was an Avy fan based on the performance of his product, but going above and beyond to help someone out is the icing on the cake.

    Figured I'd pass this story on for anyone looking for suspension work.
    I am reposting this ^^^ from a suspension thread. Getting great CS from a company is worthy of sharing.

    My GF's Float X had the reservoir end cap go MIA. I was shocked to find out a new one was $110CDN from my LBS.

    So I posted on MTBR asking if anyone with a dead shock wanted to sell me an old cap they didn't need.

    Craig from Avy came to the rescue.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  39. #239
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    I installed an elliptical Wolf Tooth 28T ring on my M6. Partially because I was curious about the elliptical benefits, but mostly to cure crappy shifting in the lowest 2 gears.

    The WT ring is well machined and finished. It looks like a quality product.



    My riding is typified by steep slow techy climbs followed by hold-on-for-dear-life steep techy downs. I don't pedal a ton on the downs so my chain stays in the easy gears most of the time hence my small ring and want good shifting at the low end of the cassette.



    The WT ring is offset towards the NDS a lot more than the stock RF ring. That makes for a better chainline in low gears. Just doing a backpedal test The chain now stays in place on the 36T, but still drops down one in the 42T. That's better than before.



    I won't get a proper test ride in until I am in Moab next weekend. I'll report back after that. I'll pack the old round ring just in case I hate the elliptical.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  40. #240
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    Got the GF's Float X back from Avy and installed on her bike.

    Sadly she won't care about how awesome it is beyond the fact that her rear suspension works properly again.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  41. #241
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    My friends swear by the elliptical rings. I will be sending my shock off to Avy once snow comes. For what it's worth I can back pedal in the 42 cog out back and no skipping. I have a 32 upfront. Stock XX1 setup

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by wilks View Post
    My friends swear by the elliptical rings. I will be sending my shock off to Avy once snow comes. For what it's worth I can back pedal in the 42 cog out back and no skipping. I have a 32 upfront. Stock XX1 setup
    Could be my RF crank's chainline? WT is saying stock with the RF is 51mm and their rings give a 49mm chainline.

    The stock XX1 is supposed to have a 49mm chainline which should be the same as what I now have, but obviously it's not if you aren't having the issue.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  43. #243
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    FWIW I have 2 seasons [spring/summer/fall] on my Race Face PF BB. I checked it out as I was swapping in the new ring and it still feels "like new" smooth.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  44. #244
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    Elliptical chainring here also


  45. #245
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    Delete
    Last edited by Wcslv; 12-21-2015 at 02:43 AM.

  46. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wcslv View Post
    I remember the elliptical chainring from the early 1980's on my Ross Mt. Hood. Back than that was the big thing. I think they were called Biometric rings.
    Shimano Biopcace rings had the elliptical rings oriented exactly opposite to the current batch of elliptical chainrings. The easy part of the stroke was when the cranks were level and the hard part of the stroke was when the cranks were vertical.

    So it was an entirely different product. They were not particularly popular they just showed up on a lot of bikes for a moment due to Shimano's OEM presence.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  47. #247
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    I'm going to be in the PHX/Tucson area the next few days. If any locals want to ride drop me a line.

    I'm thinking of dropping in on Pivot in PHX tomorrow to see the Mothership. No specific plans beyond that.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  48. #248
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    Vik's Mach 6 Builds

    Quote Originally Posted by Wcslv View Post
    I remember the elliptical chainring from the early 1980's on my Ross Mt. Hood. Back than that was the big thing. I think they were called Biometric rings. I guess everything does come around again if you just wait. I guess the next thing to come back will be the "Bar Ends". I will have to go and look in my old parts and see what I can sell. Does anyone have use for studded tires from back than. 300 sheetmetal screws per tire does wonders on the ice & legs if you fall.
    Nope. Nada. Fail.

    It is funny because once you do a bit of research on these you quickly see folks such as yourself who all say the same thing as if there is some kind of violent hatred for oval chain rings - and who haven't done any research on the matter which would reveal in about 15 seconds what the other poster called out. The clocking (orientation) of these are 90 degrees off the original Biopace. It makes a MASSIVE difference. They are also narrow / wide for that matter.

    What if I told you (Morpheus voice on) that you don't pedal in perfect circles no matter how hard you try?

    And what if I told you these new oval chain rings are easier on your lower back, knees, and ham strings?

    What if I told you that these oval rings make climbing feel like you are in a lower gear but are going the same speed?

    What if I told you that these oval rings give you better traction on loose steep technical climbs?

    What if I told you they are easier to spin up after a pedal check?

    What if I told you on once you spend a week on these that circular rings appear a little out dated and feel odd?

  49. #249
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    Pretty funny how quick you you jump on someone, even though I didn't say anything bad about them. So, why don't you sit back and drink a beer and relax. I had the name wrong, oh well.

  50. #250
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    Vik, what tires are you running in phx.

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    Last Post: 02-18-2013, 10:44 PM
  5. another sizing question Mach 5.7 vs mach 5.
    By snoroqc in forum Pivot Cycles
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 01-11-2012, 12:43 PM

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