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  1. #76
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    The state of the beast today...



    I was asked for HD 2.35" clearance photos. Tons of clearance in the Pike for any reasonable 650B tire and probably even some unreasonable 3" rubber.



    Lots of clearance by the upper link & SS for the HD. My gut feeling is the 2.4" TKs are a bit wider, but they'll fit no issues as well.



    Lots of room in the lower link/CS area.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  2. #77
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    Excellent ride today on the Mach 6 and my GF got out on her's for its first shred as well.

    In the photo above is Bev the only other Pivot owner we know of on our island. It's a small tribe!

    Conditions were drier and less sustained DH shred.....more slow twisty climbing and descending on steep tech.

    The HDs roll great and grip well. No complaints putting them on the bike.

    I ran the suspension at the pressures stated above with no changes. Most of the time I ran the bike in descend at both ends. I tried Trail 1 on the Float X for some climbs. Didn't feel a huge difference on the bike despite and obvious change when testing it at a stop.

    Getting more confidence on the rig. Learning where to put my weight vs. the Nomad.

    Noticed the slack front end a bit more in the twisties, but it was so nice on the drops and descents it seems like a reasonable trade off.



    A few thoughts from today:

    - bike is dialled enough now for me to tackle anything I normally ride
    - need to just keep riding it and staying off the Nomad to get my reactions sync'd with the bike
    - brakes are so strong what would be light braking on the Nomad's Avids is OTB or rear skid on the XTRs
    - uber mild feathering is all I will need normally
    - large frame size is perfect w/ 65mm stem
    - I can get back and pop front wheel or get over the front wheel to plant it for aggressive turns
    - short rear end and short WB makes 180 deg switchbacks easy
    - agile bike and traction = nice precise riding
    - big wheels roll through tech great...fast and easy without many hang ups
    - faster I ride the better the bike feels
    - definitely not as plush as the Nomad at slow speeds...feels like driving a sports car...it's taut
    - what a waste the compression dampening is on the front/back on this bike if I am running them on wide open
    - I'm not really feeling that much faster than the Nomad, but definitely fresher at the end
    - long rides on the Mach 6 should be great
    - had the rear tire buzz my shorts a few times on the downhills...lol...need to be careful!



    My GF got jealous of the custom fork decals on my M6 so she got her own.

    When I mentioned the "34" sticker was supposed to be on the fork brace she let me know that was silly. A Hello Kitty sticker is going there.

    Overall she had a great ride. She's a bit behind getting used to the M6 so I'll wait to post her thoughts. We'll be doing a longer ride on them tomorrow.



    I know this is the Pivot forum, but I have to say that riding a new state of the art 2013/14 bike makes me appreciate how darn good my Nomad was/is for a bike that hasn't changed significantly from 2008/09 to basically just now with the release of the 27.5 Nomad MK3. With comparable parts it's not giving up that much to the M6.

    I was thinking of keeping the Nomad as my back up bike and winter bike. I may bling it out and keep it now. That glue to the ground VPP feeling may not be the fastest most efficient ride, but it's plush and in winter being glued to the trail is everything.

    I may even score a cheap Nomad Mk2 C frame if one crosses my path. 26ers are dead so hopefully I can get a deal.

    Having two great bikes to ride - wining!
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  3. #78
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    Thanks for the update vik. Sounds like the HDs will solve some of the deflection/low traction feel of the stock tires. As you said, the 2.4 Trail Kings are really good for soaking up bumps and conforming to the trail surface, but the HD's are close.

    BTW, just checked out your blog. Nice work. Now following. And thanks for the encouragement for starting my own. It's in its infancy but it is up and running now.

  4. #79
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    We got out for some great rides on the Mach 6's this weekend.

    I'm getting more and more in tune with the bike and getting more out of it each ride.

    In particular I'm out climbing the Nomad on trails I've ridden lots. I think the difference is that the M6 is so much lighter and so efficient I can get an extra powerstroke [or two] in which is often the difference between success and failure on the crux of a techy climb. I'm also trying lines that before I didn't bother with and having some success.

    It's cool to see new lines and ride the old trails in a new way.

    I'm getting more confidence charging rocky downs. The big 650B front wheel is great for taming holes and transitions between rocks. The Hans Damfs are working well....lots of traction and they roll fast. Could be the carbon frame/Pike/carbon wheels, but the M6 is very precise which is nice for challenging lines that are skinny. I'm not getting knocked off my lines any more, but conditions are much drier than the ride I had issues on.

    The suspension seems pretty good so I've stopped messing with that. Thanks for the confirmation on settings SP.

    I did notice the 650B wheel/slack front end wasn't as agile in the super tight twisty sections as I'd like, but even my 26er Nomad suffers there. That's a reasonable compromise for how the M6 performs everywhere else.

    I do have an odd noise coming from my bike that I can't figure out. Might be my cables ziptied to the shock??? I've checked that everything is tight and I can't make it make the noise when I have the bike in the stand. It's not an awful noise, but I'm going to spend some time tracking it down this coming weekend.

    I'm headed to the North Shore in two weekends. I was thinking I'd stick with the Nomad because I am most familiar with it, but I changed my mind after this weekend's riding. I'm riding strong enough with the M6 to rock the shore and I don't want to keep swapping bikes so that I get in tune with the M6 as fast as possible.

    I've hung up the Nomad until the fall. I'm going to get the suspension serviced over the summer and have it ready for the sloppy winter here in the PNW. That will let me strip the suspension off the M6 and get it Avy'd as well as do a leisurely full tear down/rebuild of the M6. I'll take the M6 to Moab in Oct and I suspect we might end up in Sedona again at X'mas with M6s.



    My GF's enjoying her M6 as well. She had an unfortunate OTB incident [of course the one time she skips the elbow pads!] which I chalk up to the switch from weak brakes on the Nomad to new powerful stoppers. Don't worry the Mach 6 is fine!

    She's keen on some wider rubber as well - mostly for the loose downhill sections.

    She's started talking about custom tuning her suspension. She didn't MTB 4 years ago...I think I have created a monster....
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  5. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by KRob View Post
    BTW, just checked out your blog. Nice work. Now following. And thanks for the encouragement for starting my own. It's in its infancy but it is up and running now.
    Thanks KRob - I've got your RSS feed setup in my blog reader.

    We are going to hit up Gooseberry on the way to Pivot Fest in Oct. I've heard lots of good things and I want to expose my GF to as many different riding areas as I can to increase the MTB road trip stoke.

    I'm going to show her your Hurricane post to.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  6. #81
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    I do have an odd noise coming from my bike that I can't figure out. Might be my cables ziptied to the shock??? I've checked that everything is tight and I can't make it make the noise when I have the bike in the stand. It's not an awful noise, but I'm going to spend some time tracking it down this coming weekend.



    I'ts probably where the bottom part of the shock mounts to the yolk. Mine had the same problem and I did the "yolk isolator" trick and its been fine since. There is a link somewhere, just search Ripley yolk isolator. basically its just Stans tape wrapped around the bottom eyelet of the shock. I double wrapped it and used a hot very hot sharpened spoke to "clean out" the eyelet and just wedged it into the yolk.

  7. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by stokerslo View Post
    I do have an odd noise coming from my bike that I can't figure out. Might be my cables ziptied to the shock??? I've checked that everything is tight and I can't make it make the noise when I have the bike in the stand. It's not an awful noise, but I'm going to spend some time tracking it down this coming weekend.



    I'ts probably where the bottom part of the shock mounts to the yolk. Mine had the same problem and I did the "yolk isolator" trick and its been fine since. There is a link somewhere, just search Ripley yolk isolator. basically its just Stans tape wrapped around the bottom eyelet of the shock. I double wrapped it and used a hot very hot sharpened spoke to "clean out" the eyelet and just wedged it into the yolk.
    Thanks for the tip...I recall reading about that on MTBR. I will track it down.

    What did your yoke problem sound like?
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  8. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Thanks for the tip...I recall reading about that on MTBR. I will track it down.

    What did your yoke problem sound like?
    Kind of a click sound not really a squeak. Oh yea I also put plumbers tape around the threads of the screw that attatches the shock to the yolk or clevis as specialized calls it. If you stand on the side of the bike and sort of push on the pedals to one side it would make the sound. To test just loosin the screw that holds the yolk to the shock , and the sound will go away when you push on the pedals again. Do the yolk isolator trick and u should b good.

  9. #84
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    We have some folks in our extended riding group that needed some skills building time so we decided to session all the features on a few intermediate trails and then finish off with a ride to put the skills to good use.



    It was a slow ride, but is was good to see folks overcome their fears and gain confidence. [^^^^ this is not Brett Tippie! ]



    The time invested in coaching other riders pays off when you see them ripping trails they were walking lots on before.



    Our trails are feature rich so being able to ride tech efficiently is the difference between having fun and being pummelled. The tech is relentless...



    I'm posting only the Pivot pics here, but if you want to see more photos click here.



    The riding wasn't epic, but the forest was really pretty today with some nice light.



    After a few days of rain the trails were pretty wet. The Hans Damfs were awesome and my GF is eagerly awaiting hers so she can stop sliding around so much.



    This was a pretty bright day in the forest so you might be able to understand why we want brightly coloured bikes. It never gets lighter than this and mostly it's quite a bit darker!



    Going slow and riding the same feature several times is great for finding new fun lines that you miss when blasting through in a group.



    The Mach 6's worked great today other than my GF's tires. Both of us are getting used to the new rides and doing some of our best riding.



    That's nice to see so early in the season.



    For anyone who rides tight techy forests the M6 is a good choice with a short TT and short CS for compact wheelbase.



    It's an agile efficient climber and slack enough to pick your way down chunky lines.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  10. #85
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    Had one issue on yesterday's ride. I have the Float X setup when for most riding, but one area it's not awesome is on g-outs. I'm bottoming the shock fairly easily. Yet for everything else the bike feels great and I am already at the point where I would not describe the ride as plush.

    I'm going to bump the pressure 5psi to 160psi and see what that feels like.

    The DW Link suspension doesn't ramp up at the end of the stroke like my Nomad's VPP and the Float X also feels linear right up to the bottom out "Thunk!!".
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  11. #86
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    DW typically has a falling rate at the end to compensate for the ramp of air springs. Try reducing the volume of the air can slightly to get additional ramp at the end.

  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    DW typically has a falling rate at the end to compensate for the ramp of air springs. Try reducing the volume of the air can slightly to get additional ramp at the end.
    I'm going to try reducing the volume of the air can.

    When I spoke to Craig at Avalanche about the M6 he described it as "a low leverage linear system".
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  13. #88
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    Great ride today. 21 riders showed up for a club ride that has never seen more than 12 folks at once.

    Lot's of interest in our Pivots.

    I'm going to keep rolling with the extra 5psi in the shock. Seems like a good trade off between traction and bottoming out too easily.

    Very sloppy conditions. I guess winter isn't done with us just yet.

    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  14. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    I'm going to try reducing the volume of the air can.

    When I spoke to Craig at Avalanche about the M6 he described it as "a low leverage linear system".
    How do you change the air pressure in the can?
    I've been gradually increasing the pressure in my shock by 5 PSI weekly. At about 185 pounds in gear (including full camelback) I'm currently at 190PSI in the shock. I have the rear brake & der cables tied to the top tube (using zip ties loosely attached to zip ties, to allow for free movement) so they won't push the O-ring off the shock body, but I still sometimes find the O-ring off the end of the shock.
    Our local club had a Bike festival a few weeks ago in Aptos (Post Office Jumps) and I spoke with one of the Fox Reps who was there, he said that spacers or something similar to what RockShox calls "Bottomless Tokens" could be added to the Float X to ramp up the bottom of the travel without messing with the small bump compliance or reducing travel. He also said that the shock has a Custom Tune ID on a sticker which Fox could use to identify if a particular shock has such spacer things installed or not. I checked mine out today and it says: Custom Tune ID: CNBF. I searched this number on Fox's website, but it just gives generic info on the Float X. I'm curious if all M6's come with the same tune, or if different sized frames have different tuned shocks. At any rate, I plan to look into adding a spacer or whatever he called it. Has anybody else messed with this?
    I will say that I recently added a token to my Pike 160 and that made a huge difference to the fork. This week I finally got the confidence to hit a log gap jump that I previously only felt comfortable hitting on the Nomad. Plus small bump compliance is awesome now. I got home from the ride and listed my Nomad for sale!

  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by turfnsurf View Post
    How do you change the air pressure in the can?
    Add a spacer that takes up some of the air volume like the Pike tokens.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  16. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by turfnsurf View Post
    How do you change the air pressure in the can?
    I've been gradually increasing the pressure in my shock by 5 PSI weekly. At about 185 pounds in gear (including full camelback) I'm currently at 190PSI in the shock. I have the rear brake & der cables tied to the top tube (using zip ties loosely attached to zip ties, to allow for free movement) so they won't push the O-ring off the shock body, but I still sometimes find the O-ring off the end of the shock.
    Our local club had a Bike festival a few weeks ago in Aptos (Post Office Jumps) and I spoke with one of the Fox Reps who was there, he said that spacers or something similar to what RockShox calls "Bottomless Tokens" could be added to the Float X to ramp up the bottom of the travel without messing with the small bump compliance or reducing travel. He also said that the shock has a Custom Tune ID on a sticker which Fox could use to identify if a particular shock has such spacer things installed or not. I checked mine out today and it says: Custom Tune ID: CNBF. I searched this number on Fox's website, but it just gives generic info on the Float X. I'm curious if all M6's come with the same tune, or if different sized frames have different tuned shocks. At any rate, I plan to look into adding a spacer or whatever he called it. Has anybody else messed with this?
    I will say that I recently added a token to my Pike 160 and that made a huge difference to the fork. This week I finally got the confidence to hit a log gap jump that I previously only felt comfortable hitting on the Nomad. Plus small bump compliance is awesome now. I got home from the ride and listed my Nomad for sale!
    That is a lot of pressure in the rear shock. I am 200 lbs riding weight and only running 145 PSI. I do tend to use a little less pressure than most, but that is a huge swing considering how light you are. It does sound like you are hitting some big features though.

  17. #92
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    That's the funny thing, I don't hit big gaps or drops. I saw a post where you were up in my neck of the woods after Sea Otter riding UCSC, which is in my backyard. I hit a lot of stuff here but nothing huge. Not a big fan of large gaps and we don't have table tops here. A lot of our features have flat landings, which might be a factor.

    I'm gonna try to direct the Float X portion of the this thread here:Non-Fox Shock on Mach 6

    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    That is a lot of pressure in the rear shock. I am 200 lbs riding weight and only running 145 PSI. I do tend to use a little less pressure than most, but that is a huge swing considering how light you are. It does sound like you are hitting some big features though.
    Last edited by turfnsurf; 04-21-2014 at 12:40 PM. Reason: Add link to Shock thread

  18. #93
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    Just a couple notes:

    #1 - My LBS is getting me the XX1/XO1 spacer from Pivot to prevent chain to dropout wear after I made them aware it exists. It still boggles my mind that you buy a $3K+ frame and have to hunt around for small parts like a direct mount dérailleur cover and an 11 speed cassette spacer. Folks that are spending over $3K on a frame are very likely going to install a 1x system and most will be XX1/XO1. I'm not sure what Pivot's thinking, but pissing off your customers is not the way to grow a boutique brand that commands top dollar. Bundle the small parts with the frames stock even if you have to up the cost a few bucks.

    #2 - My mechanic found a spacer kit for the Float X so I'm going to get it and reduce the volume of the shock for better end stroke ramp up. Enough folks are having issues with bottoming out their M6's that Pivot needs to look at reducing the air cans stock on the bigger frame sizes that will see heavier riders.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  19. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Just a couple notes:

    #1 - My LBS is getting me the XX1/XO1 spacer from Pivot to prevent chain to dropout wear after I made them aware it exists. It still boggles my mind that you buy a $3K+ frame and have to hunt around for small parts like a direct mount dérailleur cover and an 11 speed cassette spacer. Folks that are spending over $3K on a frame are very likely going to install a 1x system and most will be XX1/XO1. I'm not sure what Pivot's thinking, but pissing off your customers is not the way to grow a boutique brand that commands top dollar. Bundle the small parts with the frames stock even if you have to up the cost a few bucks.
    Vik,

    Couple things also!

    1) Please explain the 11 speed spacer, are you saying it would go between the hub and the frame? Is the problem specific with the type of hub your using? Curious, because I've had all the other M6 creaks, cable routing, & other minor complaints, but this is new news to me.

    2) I appreciate the DM cover you sent. I haven't forgotten to send a pic with thanks, but the screws I ordered were from China. The damn things got lost in customs or some BS I'm told. That's what I get for not staying local. Anyway, replacements are on the way, as is my pic & thanks!

    3) Your bikes are looking awesome, I don't think I've seen anybody put as much love into their bikes as you. Even your Nomad looks sick. These MTBR Pivot forums have inspired me to take better care of my rides. Now if I could just learn to ride better

  20. #95
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    It varies by rear hub. Pivot have made a small washer which is bonded to the frame which they will send out for free if you call them. I have a feeling that as a running change we will see this incorporated into the frame long term since it would just be bonding a different axle mount and not a change to the carbon (read does not require a new mold)

  21. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by turfnsurf View Post
    Vik,

    Couple things also!

    1) Please explain the 11 speed spacer, are you saying it would go between the hub and the frame? Is the problem specific with the type of hub your using? Curious, because I've had all the other M6 creaks, cable routing, & other minor complaints, but this is new news to me.

    2) I appreciate the DM cover you sent. I haven't forgotten to send a pic with thanks, but the screws I ordered were from China. The damn things got lost in customs or some BS I'm told. That's what I get for not staying local. Anyway, replacements are on the way, as is my pic & thanks!

    3) Your bikes are looking awesome, I don't think I've seen anybody put as much love into their bikes as you. Even your Nomad looks sick. These MTBR Pivot forums have inspired me to take better care of my rides. Now if I could just learn to ride better
    #1 - put your dérailleur onto the smallest cog in the rear [hardest gear]...have a look at the clearance between the chain and the inside of the dropout. If you are having clearance issues Pivot has a spacer to install that moves the dropout outwards slightly to generate some extra clearance. If you have enough clearance as is just ignore.

    My understanding so far is that this is just an issue with XX1/XO1 bikes. Also my GF's complete XO1 build came with the spacer installed so probably only a problem if you bought a frame/shock.

    #2 - No worries at all. I found a bolt in my spares bin that worked! #lucky

    #3 - Hahaha.....thanks We spend so much time mountain biking that tweaking/pimping our bikes seems normal. I guess that's what folks without kids do with all their free time! The Nomad is actually pretty beat up. but it still looks good from 5' away...one of the benefits of only seeing bikes in photos is you don't see all the minor damage.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  22. #97
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    Vik, what Q factor did you get for your crank? I was going to order a 168 since I figured that would be better for a bigger rider, but was told I needed a 156 due to possible chain rub. Once I put everything together, it made sense and saw the potential problem. I have a Hope Hub with a 156Q and don't seem to have any chain rub yet.

  23. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by dawgman25 View Post
    Vik, what Q factor did you get for your crank? I was going to order a 168 since I figured that would be better for a bigger rider, but was told I needed a 156 due to possible chain rub. Once I put everything together, it made sense and saw the potential problem. I have a Hope Hub with a 156Q and don't seem to have any chain rub yet.
    I haven't measured my Q-factor. I have Race Face Next SL cranks and I don't think there are any options for different Q-factors.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  24. #99
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    Been getting in some great riding lately. Doing the best climbing I've ever done. Charging up techy sections I never would have bothered with before.

    The lightweight, precise steering, short wheelbase and DW link suspension is a killer combo.



    My GF is getting the hang of her M6 and enjoying it a lot. We've had a hard time getting her some Hans Damfs, but I think we got 'em licked and she'll be rocking once she gets them and is riding with some serious traction.



    I'm pretty satisfied with the bike at the moment. The suspension is on the firm side, but I'm going to wait until I get those Float X volume spacers to mess with it. I'd rather have the suspension a bit firm and balanced. Once I get the Float X to ramp up at the end of the stroke I'll try softening both ends a bit at a time until I am happy.



    I noticed another spot the internal cables are rubbing [see white rub mark] so I threw some tape on the yoke to prevent more wear.

    I've gotta say the internal cable routing on the M6 is an embarrassment. It's beyond useless. **shakes head**

    First excuse I have to rerun the cables I will pull them and run them as shown below.



    I found some stick on cable guides I hope will be secure enough to work so I can avoid the ugly zipties.



    If you are riding someplace wet and want a front fender with great coverage try one of these Canadian Shields. Love it so far...



    Keep them Pivots rolling...
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  25. #100
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    Vik I finally got my routing dialed. You have to have the cables come out of the internal routing on the same side as they mount on the yoke and then they should be tight, but not stretched when the suspension is fully extended. I am actually very satisfied with it now and I don't even have the standoff mounted for the rear brake. It also stopped rubbing on the rear shock by the yoke as well. My travel has been perfect with 145 PSI (200 lb rider weight with camelback etc). That is including the 3-5' drops we were hitting today. I was using 99% of the travel without knocking the o-ring off the shaft.

    Also, if you are rubbing the yoke there it might be the cables knocking the o-ring off and not the fact you are using all of the travel.

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