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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mattoid View Post
    That is a well designed pebble grinder.


    One Lizard Skins patch [they come in clear as well] on either side of the linkage will protect the carbon from wear.

    You can also cut any other type of protection tape to fit as long as it's not too thick.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  2. #202
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    Edit: This was a response to an earlier question of 5.7 vs M6; quotes didn't come through.

    Radical difference in my opinion. I owns a Mach 5.7 and did a nice test on a demo M6 on a very familiar trail.

    To be honest, I hated the 5.7. Good climber, but I could never make the suspension work for me on the downs (in Arizona chunk). The M6 is a completely different beast in that regard. Climbs nearly as well and it's super-plush and fun on the downs.

    Best iteration of DW Link I've personally ridden and I'm not a fan of DW Link generally in my terrain.

  3. #203
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    ^^^^^ great feedback. I ride very rocky chunky trails but with less elevation changes. I got the avalanche SSD and a tune for CTD rear and it made a huge difference to the 5.7c.

  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quadro View Post


    Lower link area looks like this after few months of use..
    Sure it's only cosmetic, but my previous Machs didn't have this feature..


    A couple protective tape patches hopefully solving the "chewed up" frame around the lowered linkage.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  5. #205
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    Tell me bad things about the Mach 6

    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    Cable routing is not the greatest and it rubs on the rear shock a little even with the standoff's. No other issues that I have seen over the few weeks I have had it.
    I have a Mach 429 but I use cable ties to get the cables off the rear shock.Tell me bad things about the Mach 6-imageuploadedbytapatalk1396795026.599139.jpg

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by SDMTB'er View Post
    I have a Mach 429 but I use cable ties to get the cables off the rear shock.Click image for larger version. 

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    I can't make out what you did as the photo is too dark. Any chance on a close up with more light? It looks good from here, but I'd like to see the details.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  7. #207
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    Question to Mach 6 owners - can you fit a Hans Damf 2.35" tire in the rear of the frame?
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Question to Mach 6 owners - can you fit a Hans Damf 2.35" tire in the rear of the frame?
    Yes. They fit with lots of room to spare

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by aevanlloyd View Post
    Yes. They fit with lots of room to spare
    Awesome. I have two on their way to me.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Awesome. I have two on their way to me.
    Switching out the Trail Kings already?
    ''It seems like a bit of a trend, everyone trying to make things longer over the last couple of years" Sam Hill

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by miles e View Post
    Switching out the Trail Kings already?
    Yes. Multiple near death experiences on a ride last weekend... ... has convinced me to swap in some more aggressive tires.

    I love the TK's in 2.4", but the 2.2" version just isn't enough tire right now while we are still in sloppy winter conditions.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Yes. Multiple near death experiences on a ride last weekend... ... has convinced me to swap in some more aggressive tires.

    I love the TK's in 2.4", but the 2.2" version just isn't enough tire right now while we are still in sloppy winter conditions.
    Missed that before now, thanks. Was curious to see how your "experiment" turned out- I'm a big fan of the 2.4 TK's also, but have been pleasantly surprised by the 2.2 UST on the rear, and am trying one on the front now too. Was hoping (like it seems you were) that the bigger/wider hoops would put the 27.5 2.2's right in the mix with the 26" 2.4's, but I guess when things get steep and deep there's ~1kg worth of rubber on your rims, and there's everything else.

    Would love to see some clearance shots with the HD's and the 2.4" TK's if you put those on at some point.
    ''It seems like a bit of a trend, everyone trying to make things longer over the last couple of years" Sam Hill

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by miles e View Post
    Missed that before now, thanks. Was curious to see how your "experiment" turned out- I'm a big fan of the 2.4 TK's also, but have been pleasantly surprised by the 2.2 UST on the rear, and am trying one on the front now too. Was hoping (like it seems you were) that the bigger/wider hoops would put the 27.5 2.2's right in the mix with the 26" 2.4's, but I guess when things get steep and deep there's ~1kg worth of rubber on your rims, and there's everything else.

    Would love to see some clearance shots with the HD's and the 2.4" TK's if you put those on at some point.
    Well as experiments go I had two things I was curious about:

    1. roll through on tech with 650B wheels and TK2.2" vs. my old 26er TK2.4" setup

    2. whether the 2.2" TK was enough tire in terms of traction due to the bigger wheel size

    The roll through is great with the 2.2" TK and I can only assume will get better with the bigger HD...although I need to validate that I still notice a difference in that size range. I certainly notice a significant difference between a normal 2.3" 26er tire and a 2.4" TK which is huge.

    The 2.2" TK wasn't grippy enough for our sloppy conditions at the moment. That's not really a fair expectation. I thought I was going to get the M6 later in the spring than I did so I was already thinking [dreaming??] about dry conditions when I ordered up the narrower TKs.

    Two issues with the narrow TKs that are of interest:

    1. is it just the width and tread at issue?

    2. or is the wider 35mm rim not play nice with the TK's profile/side knob position?

    My GF has the same 2.2" TKs on "normal" rims so we'll see how she does. She's lighter and rides less aggressively. They might work for her.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  14. #214
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    Garage Files

    No real rides yet but so far the fit and feel is perfect. Usually takes me a long time until I get the fit and feel just right but I got lucky with this one.

    I'm no photographer but here you go...Tell me bad things about the Mach 6-image.jpg

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by miles e View Post
    Would love to see some clearance shots with the HD's and the 2.4" TK's if you put those on at some point.
    2.35" HD clearance shots at post #76 in the link below:

    Vik's Mach 6 Builds

    I can't get my hands on 2.4" TKs before mid-May so that won't happen for a while.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    No real rides yet but so far the fit and feel is perfect. Usually takes me a long time until I get the fit and feel just right but I got lucky with this one.

    I'm no photographer but here you go...Click image for larger version. 

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    Very nice. I'm starting to have colour choice regrets. A stealth black M6 with custom decals could have rocked my world!

    Have fun on the new bike.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Very nice. I'm starting to have colour choice regrets. A stealth black M6 with custom decals could have rocked my world!

    Have fun on the new bike.

    Sticking to black seems to reduce the chances of alerting the wife to new bike purchases.

    While not my style, the blue looks pretty dang cool. Reminds me of old Cannondale blue.

  18. #218
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    Just curious has Pivot said whether or not an AL Mach 6 is going to be made or is it going to be 100% carbon only?
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  19. #219
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    I have not heard anything about an AL version

  20. #220
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    Tell me bad things about the Mach 6

    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    I can't make out what you did as the photo is too dark. Any chance on a close up with more light? It looks good from here, but I'd like to see the details.
    Does this work?

    I essentially used my LEV dropper post cable as an anchor point. I just pulled that cable through to have a little less slack and then cable tied the other cables to that. Tell me bad things about the Mach 6-imageuploadedbytapatalk1399387504.603158.jpg

  21. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by SDMTB'er View Post
    Does this work?

    I essentially used my LEV dropper post cable as an anchor point. I just pulled that cable through to have a little less slack and then cable tied the other cables to that. Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks. I ended up running the cables externally.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  22. #222
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    Internal dropper post routing...

    Where can I find info on how to do the internal routing for a dropper post?

    I can't find it on Pivot's site.

    How has the stealth dropper routing worked out for those who've done it?

  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    How has the stealth dropper routing worked out for those who've done it?
    That part of the internal cable routing works fine.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  24. #224
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    Hey Vik,

    My Mach 6 will arrive this week. What are my first steps. I am thinking
    - helitape the linkages to prevent the rock blender effect behind the seat tube
    - get a jagwire kit for the rear mech

    My questions are
    - is it worth getting this sorted before swinging a leg over it (I can't ride it until the weekend anyway)
    - I have a 2x setup so I need cabling for the front mech - any advice?
    - I assume that your two downtime cables are rear mech and rear brake?

  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    That part of the internal cable routing works fine.
    Thanks. Forgive my ignorance, but how does one route the stealth dropper cable - I've never done this before?

    Can you insert the cable/hose from the front end and it will feed itself through to the top of the seat tube? Or, is it more involved, and do you need to remove the crank spindle and fish the cable through?

    I plan on using the newer Spec Command post so it will be cable/housing, not hose.

    Thanks again.

  26. #226
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    The internal routing for the dropper post is a tube that runs from the entry port on the drive side down tube right at the head tube and exits at the bottom of the seat tube. You can shine a light in the seat tube and see it sticking up. All you need to do is push the housing thru that tube and it'll come out the seat tube. I prefer to NOT have a cap on the housing when pushing it thru the tube, just to prevent any chance of it getting pulled off inside the tube.
    Desert Sunset Calls/Upward, Pain, Perseverance/Welcome Solitude

  27. #227
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    Correct me if I am wrong, but my understanding is that seat tube angle is not important.

    Every rider has an optimal position where the seat bones should be with respect to the center of the BB. As long as there is enough range in the saddle's forward/aft adjustment to position the rider's seat bones in their optimal position with respect to the BB center, then the angle of the seat tube is irrelevant.

    When riding out of the saddle, the seat tube angle is irrelevant because what matters is that the bike feels well balanced when the rider is pushing all his weight through the BB while standing on the pedals and shifting his weight around as needed.

    If a bike does not feel well balanced while seating down or standing up, then it is not a problem of the seat tube angle. It is a problem of the bike's geometry and weight distribution as a whole.

  28. #228
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    I would disagree with this completely. You can only alter it by so much with saddle movement. You are correct that when standing the reach measurement is what really matters.

  29. #229
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    I'm yet to ride an all-mountain frame where my knee is not over the spindle at 3 and 9, and this includes the Pivot with its small seat angle. Regardless of seat tube angle, I seriously doubt that manufactures would commit the silly mistake of designing a frame where the average Joe would be unable to obtain optimal saddle position. Even though the Pivot has such a small seat tube angle, it is able to achieve optimal saddle position because the seat tube starts in front of the BB.

  30. #230
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    How often does Pivot redesign their bikes? Do you know when approximately can we expect a new Mach6?

  31. #231
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    Quote Originally Posted by jazzanova View Post
    How often does Pivot redesign their bikes? Do you know when approximately can we expect a new Mach6?
    I hope not any time soon.

    Its current geo is what makes it as good as it is, and what differentiates it from bikes like the Nomad and Bronson.

    (If Pivot was to redesign anything, we should be looking at the 429... we need a short stay mini-link 29er in the 4.5" to 5" travel range.)

  32. #232
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    Tell me bad things about the Mach 6

    Quote Originally Posted by jarango View Post
    Regardless of seat tube angle, I seriously doubt that manufactures would commit the silly mistake of designing a frame where the average Joe would be unable to obtain optimal saddle position.
    But optimal for what? Even in road riding where positions are more static and fit is a matter of millimeters, the saddle position differs from a road bike to a TT or tri bike.

    Bikes are like skis in that you have to choose your compromises. AM bikes are where you can really start cutting muscle, not fat, in those compromises. Mine climbs great and shreds downhills, but it's not ideal on level pedally trails. And I'm OK with that, because that's the compromise I want.
    "Back off, man. I'm a scientist." - Dr. Peter Venkman

    Riding in Helena? Everything you need to know, right here.

  33. #233
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    "Tell you bad things about the M6?"

    It will ruin you for other bikes…others don't come close for a "do it all" 6" FS bike as good as the M6 pulls it off.

  34. #234
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    Tell me bad things about the Mach 6

    Does anyone own both a Mach 429 carbon and a Mach 6 and can compare how the two bikes climb?

  35. #235
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    My only complaint: the internal cable routing exits the frame directly beneath the rear shock, so replacing broken rear der. cable for instance, requires one to remove the rear shock from the frame in order to be able to thread the cable thru the frame and out of the internal routing exit hole. A real pain in the butt. Especially if you are out on the trail. why oh why was it designed this way? Did no one realize what a pain it was after the bike was designed? I guess it can apply to lots of bike brands, so this rant is probably heard on other bike manufacturer forums. Other than that I love love love my M6. it will improve your game!

  36. #236
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    These guys evidently bypassed the whole issue with the shock and routing I described earlier. this may be the solution to easier routing..

  37. #237
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    I need to clear up a little dilemma, maybe you guys can help:

    My old frame uses CK "standard 73mm threaded BB" with XX1 GXP crank. I'm planning on upgrading to Pivot M6, so I want to use back my XX1 crank and the CK BB on the new M6 build that uses press-fit BB92 bottom bracket; to do this would I just need to get a adapter like this?
    BTI | Truvativ BB-shell adapter kit, PF30 to BSA (threaded) - 68/73mm

    I hope this will work as i do not want to spend more $$ on the BB.Thanks.

  38. #238
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    You just need the BB92 BB from Sram. There is no adaptor necessary.

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