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  1. #226
    Pivotal figure
    Reputation: kenbentit's Avatar
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    The internal routing for the dropper post is a tube that runs from the entry port on the drive side down tube right at the head tube and exits at the bottom of the seat tube. You can shine a light in the seat tube and see it sticking up. All you need to do is push the housing thru that tube and it'll come out the seat tube. I prefer to NOT have a cap on the housing when pushing it thru the tube, just to prevent any chance of it getting pulled off inside the tube.
    Desert Sunset Calls/Upward, Pain, Perseverance/Welcome Solitude

  2. #227
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    Correct me if I am wrong, but my understanding is that seat tube angle is not important.

    Every rider has an optimal position where the seat bones should be with respect to the center of the BB. As long as there is enough range in the saddle's forward/aft adjustment to position the rider's seat bones in their optimal position with respect to the BB center, then the angle of the seat tube is irrelevant.

    When riding out of the saddle, the seat tube angle is irrelevant because what matters is that the bike feels well balanced when the rider is pushing all his weight through the BB while standing on the pedals and shifting his weight around as needed.

    If a bike does not feel well balanced while seating down or standing up, then it is not a problem of the seat tube angle. It is a problem of the bike's geometry and weight distribution as a whole.

  3. #228
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    I would disagree with this completely. You can only alter it by so much with saddle movement. You are correct that when standing the reach measurement is what really matters.

  4. #229
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    I'm yet to ride an all-mountain frame where my knee is not over the spindle at 3 and 9, and this includes the Pivot with its small seat angle. Regardless of seat tube angle, I seriously doubt that manufactures would commit the silly mistake of designing a frame where the average Joe would be unable to obtain optimal saddle position. Even though the Pivot has such a small seat tube angle, it is able to achieve optimal saddle position because the seat tube starts in front of the BB.

  5. #230
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    How often does Pivot redesign their bikes? Do you know when approximately can we expect a new Mach6?

  6. #231
    Keep on Rockin...
    Reputation: Miker J's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jazzanova View Post
    How often does Pivot redesign their bikes? Do you know when approximately can we expect a new Mach6?
    I hope not any time soon.

    Its current geo is what makes it as good as it is, and what differentiates it from bikes like the Nomad and Bronson.

    (If Pivot was to redesign anything, we should be looking at the 429... we need a short stay mini-link 29er in the 4.5" to 5" travel range.)

  7. #232
    beater
    Reputation: evasive's Avatar
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    Tell me bad things about the Mach 6

    Quote Originally Posted by jarango View Post
    Regardless of seat tube angle, I seriously doubt that manufactures would commit the silly mistake of designing a frame where the average Joe would be unable to obtain optimal saddle position.
    But optimal for what? Even in road riding where positions are more static and fit is a matter of millimeters, the saddle position differs from a road bike to a TT or tri bike.

    Bikes are like skis in that you have to choose your compromises. AM bikes are where you can really start cutting muscle, not fat, in those compromises. Mine climbs great and shreds downhills, but it's not ideal on level pedally trails. And I'm OK with that, because that's the compromise I want.
    "Back off, man. I'm a scientist." - Dr. Peter Venkman

    Riding in Helena? Everything you need to know, right here.

  8. #233
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    "Tell you bad things about the M6?"

    It will ruin you for other bikes…others don't come close for a "do it all" 6" FS bike as good as the M6 pulls it off.

  9. #234
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    Tell me bad things about the Mach 6

    Does anyone own both a Mach 429 carbon and a Mach 6 and can compare how the two bikes climb?

  10. #235
    In Search of Singletrack
    Reputation: jzumbro's Avatar
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    My only complaint: the internal cable routing exits the frame directly beneath the rear shock, so replacing broken rear der. cable for instance, requires one to remove the rear shock from the frame in order to be able to thread the cable thru the frame and out of the internal routing exit hole. A real pain in the butt. Especially if you are out on the trail. why oh why was it designed this way? Did no one realize what a pain it was after the bike was designed? I guess it can apply to lots of bike brands, so this rant is probably heard on other bike manufacturer forums. Other than that I love love love my M6. it will improve your game!

  11. #236
    In Search of Singletrack
    Reputation: jzumbro's Avatar
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    These guys evidently bypassed the whole issue with the shock and routing I described earlier. this may be the solution to easier routing.. https://vimeo.com/110118524

  12. #237
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    I need to clear up a little dilemma, maybe you guys can help:

    My old frame uses CK "standard 73mm threaded BB" with XX1 GXP crank. I'm planning on upgrading to Pivot M6, so I want to use back my XX1 crank and the CK BB on the new M6 build that uses press-fit BB92 bottom bracket; to do this would I just need to get a adapter like this?
    BTI | Truvativ BB-shell adapter kit, PF30 to BSA (threaded) - 68/73mm

    I hope this will work as i do not want to spend more $$ on the BB.Thanks.

  13. #238
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    You just need the BB92 BB from Sram. There is no adaptor necessary.

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