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  1. #1
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    Pivot Mach 6 cabling question

    I recently built up my new Mach 6 from a frame only order. This is the first bike I've built myself (well, had help from a friend too). The cabling setup I have by the rear shock is a little rough around the edges. The cables seem to rest on/rub the shock and move around a fair amount as the rear end compresses. I don't have a front derailleur so these are the rear derailleur and rear brake cables.

    I noticed several others posting their Mach 6 builds, which seem to have a cleaner cabling setup and was hoping for some Mach 6 cabling advice/setup info. Does my setup look correct? I'm thinking my cables may just be too long, but not sure if there's a smarter way to route/tie them. I was considering either shortening the amount of cable that's between the rear shock and the seat stay cable guide or twist tying the two cables together attaching them somehow to the underside of the top tub to prevent them from moving around as much.

    Pivot Mach 6 cabling question-photo_comp.jpg

    Pivot Mach 6 cabling question-photo_1_comp.jpg

    Thanks for the help!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Pivot Mach 6 cabling question-photo-2.jpg  

    Pivot Mach 6 cabling question-photo_comp.jpg  


  2. #2
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    It looks like you're missing the cable standoffs. That aspect is described in the "Mach 6 Cable Setup" printout that came with my frame.

    I additionally put some 3M tape around the upper portion of the seatstay arm to avoid any cable rub there.

    Guide:


    Cable Standoffs: One on each side


    3M Tape: Also great for underside of chainstays, etc. Very easy to work with, stays put, and easy to remove.

  3. #3
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    Damn, you're spot on. I just checked and the cable standoffs and instructions were provided with the frame. I guess I'm just dumb and missed them in my haste. I'll get these setup soon and see if it improves the routing/possible rub. Thanks for the help.

  4. #4
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    Totally understandable given the excitement of a new frame! Good luck and have fun!

  5. #5
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    Mine doesn't have the standoff, I thought it didn't seem quite right.... How long is that piece of tubing, looks like about 1/2" or so. Thanks for the picture of the guide.

  6. #6
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    No problem. You're correct; the tubing on mine is 1/2".

  7. #7
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    FYI, you can use a small piece of drip irrigation tubing or similar if you don't have those standoffs. Another method is to use 2 Ty-Wraps with one in place of the tubing (smaller Ty-Wrap to hold the cable/hose, larger one as a standoff).
    Desert Sunset Calls/Upward, Pain, Perseverance/Welcome Solitude

  8. #8
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    Mach 6 Setup.pdf

    Here are the set up instructions for your reference.
    "The face of a child can say it all, especially the mouth part of the face".
    Jack Handy

  9. #9
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    thanks for posting this pdf. I have the same problem and this will fix it. LOVE this bike but this is the one thing that has been bugging me as the cable, when shock is compressed, keeps hitting my leg


  10. #10
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    Very helpful. Just building up my Mach 6 with XX1 components and XT brakes. Dumb question and I haven't gotten to this part yet, but I would assume you have to take the rear brake hose off from the caliper side in order to install internally? I need to cut the hoses too, but that is usually done from the cylinder side.

    Can you run the hoses and cables without removing the shock, or is that a necessity? Thanks.

  11. #11
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    Also, Scotch 2228 tape, or Helicopter clear tape to prevent cable rub? Any concerns for either on a carbon frame?

  12. #12
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    Check the setup gude that Dan posted; remove the rear shock to install the rear brake.

    Either of those protective tapes will work in different areas of the frame and are removed and replaced easily. The Scotch 2228 tape is super easy to work with, stetching and conforming to wierd shapes like the underside of chainstays, etc. I use the Helicopter tape (or similar) underneath the cables in the flatter areas of the frame where the tape is more likely to stay down and not pull up at the corners.

  13. #13
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    There's no internal routing for the rear brake, just the der cables. Those tapes will work fine on the frame.
    Desert Sunset Calls/Upward, Pain, Perseverance/Welcome Solitude

  14. #14
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    Ok great, thanks for the help. Cabling project this weekend!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by dawgman25 View Post
    Very helpful. Just building up my Mach 6 with XX1 components and XT brakes. Dumb question and I haven't gotten to this part yet, but I would assume you have to take the rear brake hose off from the caliper side in order to install internally? I need to cut the hoses too, but that is usually done from the cylinder side.

    Can you run the hoses and cables without removing the shock, or is that a necessity? Thanks.
    Definitely not required. Just drop the front mount of the rear shock and place the hose inside.

  16. #16
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    Did anybody try to install a KS LEV Integra Dropperpost with the Mach 6?
    Did the internal cable routing work or did any problem come up?

    Thanks.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by busyguy View Post
    Did anybody try to install a KS LEV Integra Dropperpost with the Mach 6?
    Did the internal cable routing work or did any problem come up?

    Thanks.
    Yeah, I installed one on my Mach 6. No problems. Installed pretty easily and has been working great for the 6 weeks or so I've had it.

  18. #18
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    @anwleung, thanks for your feedback.

  19. #19
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    Could someone take a picture of how the cables route under the top tube and above the rear shock. I haven't been able to locate any pictures that show where the front derailler cable exits the top tube under the shock. I have a Thomson dropper, so I won't be utilizing the stealth cabling option. I will be using a 1x setup and I'm trying to figure out the best way to route the dropper cable. I'm guessing that I will utilize the front derailler housing routing. I'm hoping that a picture will help me figure the best solution.

  20. #20
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    It's pretty tough to get a good pic of that cable stop since it's tucked inside the shock tabs but it's a simple plastic plate with both F&R der cable stops molded into it. If your post uses a cable release and you run a 1X setup, it's super easy to route that cable thru there in place of the FD cable. I just built a 429C up with that same setup and it worked fine (uses the same type of plate). Just bear in mind that you'll want to make sure you cut that final piece of housing with the post at the height you prefer so it's tucked in nice and neat.
    Desert Sunset Calls/Upward, Pain, Perseverance/Welcome Solitude

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Overhillthruthewoods View Post
    Could someone take a picture of how the cables route under the top tube and above the rear shock. I haven't been able to locate any pictures that show where the front derailler cable exits the top tube under the shock. I have a Thomson dropper, so I won't be utilizing the stealth cabling option. I will be using a 1x setup and I'm trying to figure out the best way to route the dropper cable. I'm guessing that I will utilize the front derailler housing routing. I'm hoping that a picture will help me figure the best solution.
    It's not easy to see where the cable exits, but it's under the top tube, between the front shock mount brackets. After you loosen the front shock bolt and lower & rotate the shock, you need to remove the cable housing stop that is mounted up in there.
    FYI, most of the brake/derailleur cable mount screws use a 3mm allen wrench. The one where the derailleur cable exits the frame needs a 2.5mm allen. My old eyes couldn't figure out why my 3mm allen socket wouldn't fit. WTF Pivot, really?

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by dawgman25 View Post
    Also, Scotch 2228 tape, or Helicopter clear tape to prevent cable rub? Any concerns for either on a carbon frame?
    What is Helicopter tape?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by turfnsurf View Post
    What is Helicopter tape?
    Racers Tape Products
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  24. #24
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    I love my M6, but the rear cable and hose routing is insidious. When the rear travel compresses, the hoses bow out/in and create all sorts of rubbing issues. I don't run the rear der thru the provided frame ports. I made a loop of velcro that extends to either side of the frame and placed it under the first cable clamp just forward of the front shock mount. Now the cables slide forward above the shock and thru the velcro loop when the shock compresses. No bow-ing. No hitting my legs. No problema.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by MntnMan View Post
    I love my M6, but the rear cable and hose routing is insidious. When the rear travel compresses, the hoses bow out/in and create all sorts of rubbing issues. I don't run the rear der thru the provided frame ports. I made a loop of velcro that extends to either side of the frame and placed it under the first cable clamp just forward of the front shock mount. Now the cables slide forward above the shock and thru the velcro loop when the shock compresses. No bow-ing. No hitting my legs. No problema.
    MntnMan, post a few pics when you get a chance. I just got my first 2 rides in and I don't notice the cables bowing out while riding, but I still think there's room for improvement. I have a theory on a solution, but haven't taken the time to experiment. It would be cool to see other ideas and see if one of us can solve the issue in a clean and functional approach.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by MntnMan View Post
    I love my M6, but the rear cable and hose routing is insidious. When the rear travel compresses, the hoses bow out/in and create all sorts of rubbing issues. I don't run the rear der thru the provided frame ports. I made a loop of velcro that extends to either side of the frame and placed it under the first cable clamp just forward of the front shock mount. Now the cables slide forward above the shock and thru the velcro loop when the shock compresses. No bow-ing. No hitting my legs. No problema.
    I am assuming that it doesn't rub the rear shock any longer as well?

  27. #27
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    Negative, Mike. I used a dual crown fork trick and double ziptied the cables. One around the shock can and one loosely around the cables, running the cable one under the can one first.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by MntnMan View Post
    Negative, Mike. I used a dual crown fork trick and double ziptied the cables. One around the shock can and one loosely around the cables, running the cable one under the can one first.
    Pic please

  29. #29
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    pretty serious cable rub on shock canister these 2 days

    been riding the bike since mid jan, thought i got the potential cable rub spots settled with race shield stickers but the last 2 days of riding, the 2 cables that run under the frame got tangled in a fashion that caused the attached cable rub on my shock in just 2 days.

    I have since added a couple more race shields on there but my main concern is if the cable rub would have caused the canister to be compromised. I wouldnt want the shock exploding

    Pivot Mach 6 cabling question-20140316_193018.jpg

  30. #30
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    Pivot Mach 6 cabling question


  31. #31
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    That is an interesting solution.
    Quote Originally Posted by stejam View Post

  32. #32
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    Pivot Mach 6 cabling question

    It works perfect! It could be done in the same manor as the pipe on the link if i could be bothered to find some!

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by stejam View Post
    I'm glad it works, but the cabling hijinx needed for this bike make me want to cry.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  34. #34
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    Cross-post from the M6 problems thread. This info belongs here:

    Quote Originally Posted by A.P. View Post
    Here's an alternative (better) cable routing for the Machs. Maybe not as photogenic as the Pivot routing, but much more functional when the suspension is working. No cable rub whatsoever.

    When I purchased the bike, my lbs mechanic asked me if I wanted the "Pivot routing" or the "Good routing"...



    I see the wisdom in your cable routing now that I have a M6 in front of me.

    I think maybe some of these stick on cable guides could be the solution to a clean looking bike and ditching the cables problems of running them over the shock.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  35. #35
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    I got a little crazy

    and made a couple of line routers for the rear derailer and rear brake line. I couldn't stand how the shock motion shoved those lines into, well, nowhere they had any space to move.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Pivot Mach 6 cabling question-14156263047_c1ea343814_c.jpg  


  36. #36
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    I see the Passion Trail Bike sticker on that frame. Was Charles involved in that cable routing at all?

  37. #37
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    Cable solution....

    Cable routing is something I'm finicky about and wasn't happy with the M6's. Now I'm finding it to be one of the best.

    I'd have to look again at exactly how I did it but rerouted the order of how the cables exit from under the TT. Now when the suspension cycles the cables bow in a horizontal, parallel, but opposite direction than they originally did. For example the cable exiting the left hole now bows to the right then redirects back to left. It takes up the "slack" perfectly so the bow barely protrudes.

    While it was a hassle to find the precise set up, it now works perfectly and gives the routing to the rear derailure a very direct line.

    A pic is worth a thousand words - I know. Will see what I can do.
    Last edited by Miker J; 06-07-2014 at 05:46 AM.

  38. #38
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    Pic pic

  39. #39
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    THIS is how it's supposed to work! Kind of like a scissor jack. Takes a little fine tuning to get the cable length right but it does work nicely.
    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    Cable solution....

    Cable routing is something I'm finicky about and wasn't happy with the M6's. Now I'm finding it to be one of the best.

    I'd have to look again at exactly how I did it but rerouted the order of how the cables exit from under the TT. Now when the suspension cycles the cables bow in a horizontal, parallel, but opposite direction than they originally did. For example the cable exiting the left hole now bows to the right then redirects back to left. It takes up the "slack" perfectly so the bow barely protrudes.

    While it was a hassle to find the precise set up, it now works perfectly and gives the routing to the rear derailure a very direct line.

    A pic is worth a thousand words - I know. Will see what I can do.


    I'm pretty picky
    Desert Sunset Calls/Upward, Pain, Perseverance/Welcome Solitude

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by turfnsurf View Post
    I see the Passion Trail Bike sticker on that frame. Was Charles involved in that cable routing at all?
    Yes, Charles = Backpedal

  41. #41
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    Pics

  42. #42
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    Have you guys tried this?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Pivot Mach 6 cabling question-shock.jpg  

    Pivot Mach 6 cabling question-shock1.jpg  

    Pivot Mach 6 cabling question-shock2.jpg  


  43. #43
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    good lord there are some really hideous cable routing here! I have a M6. I agree that it could be better...but...if you cut the cable housing to the shortest length possible in the area of the rear shock, and secure the housing to the rear triangle with the tie-offs (zip ties), there will be only a very little bit of bowing of the cable housings in the shock area. No need for crazy cable routing and 100s of zip ties all over your frame.

  44. #44
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    Look my post ;-)

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by backpedal View Post
    and made a couple of line routers for the rear derailer and rear brake line. I couldn't stand how the shock motion shoved those lines into, well, nowhere they had any space to move.

    Hi Backpedal, how did you attach the gear clamp to the shock bolt? is the standard bolt or a replacement thats not countersunk?

    thanks,

    alex

  46. #46
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    I used a different set of bolts, scavenged off a Santa Cruz, then made a threaded sleeve to protect the threads in the frame and take up the space left by the smaller diameter bolt.

    https://www.flickr.com/search/?user_...ch6&view_all=1

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by backpedal View Post
    I used a different set of bolts, scavenged off a Santa Cruz, then made a threaded sleeve to protect the threads in the frame and take up the space left by the smaller diameter bolt.

    https://www.flickr.com/search/?user_...ch6&view_all=1
    Thanks, would be a good mod if i can work out the parts!

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    Edit
    Last edited by richwales; 05-21-2015 at 01:50 PM.

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