My Brand New Mach 5.7
Last night I got my new Pivot Mach 5.7 and it looks beautiful. I'll post some pics. I stayed up way too late assembling it.
Build. (I got the XT kit and did some changes)
Shock: Fox Float CTD Trail Adj with boost valve. Kashima
Fork: Fox Float 34 CTD Trail Adj. Kashima. @ 150mm
Stem: FSA Afterburner 70mm
Bar: Boobar 740mm
180 Front Rotor
Time ATAC pedals... had them in my old bike and love them.
One thing I noticed is that the bottom bracket feels tight it does not spin freely. Perhaps it just needs to be broken in. Does anyone know if there is any kind of preload adjustment? The bike that I tested felt the same way and I thought the bearings were shot.
I'm hoping that I can get out of work early tomorrow and take it for a spin.
I'll post some of my impressions and pictures... Like many say, if there is no picture it didn't happen!
The pre-load adjustment is in the little hollow cap on the left crank. I think it is quite easy to get it too tight. The BB has plastic dust covers to protect the actual seals in the bearings. If you crank in too much pre-load, the dust cover will flex and drag a bit.
Bill, Thaks for the response. I did some google searches and I think you are right. I'll play with it to see if it loosens a bit.
Some videos I saw of the preload adjutment just do it by tightening it by hand/finger tight... and others were using a ratchet to tighten the preload... All shimano cranks.
What is the best way to judge if it is tight enough?
I just put together a 2010 mach 5 and am using xt cranks. I notice the same thing. The spin is not as free as a broken in external type cups. The way I install mine is too hand tight as much as I can then back it off, hand tight it again, and back it off. Still won't get that drag feeling away but I don't notice it pedaling at all. Pedals drag free. I think this is the way they are. But I'm new to the pivot forum. Love it by the way.
I took my bike out this morning for the first time. WOW!!!
Climbing is great, decending is awesome.
Last night I checked the preload and it was tight... I loosened it a little and then set it just finger tight. Not a big change but I guess it got a bit better. The shimano manual mentions that the preload needs to be at 0.7 - 1.5 Nm... that is not much torque. So I'll have to see if it improves with time.
I need to play with the suspension settings. I used the Fox manual guidelines and the new iphone app to set the air pressure and rebound settings. It was a good place to start but I'm sure I can make it much better. It currently feels too stiff and low small bump sensitivity. I only used the Trail mode mid setting and decend.
I was a bit concerned that having the Fox 34 at 150mm with a bit longer ATC would make it tough to climb very steep sections. I was able to ride everything that I could do before and just leaning a bit forward kept the front tire planted. Going down at speeds is great, the fork is very stiff and goes where you point it.
I could not be happier with the new bike. I hope it holds up in the long run.
I also just received a new 2012 Mach 5.7 w/ XT build (same as yours I think, but I don't have the Kashima coat on the fork).
I paid around $3700 (not including tax/ship, including a carbon bar upgrade) - is that a good deal do people think?
This is my first new bike in decades... any tips on things to do before I start using it? For example, with a carbon bike a lot of people put paint tape in key places (like lower surface of bottom bar) to keep it from getting lots of rock chip/scrathes - what can I do now before using it to keep it looking new(er)?
Yesterday I entered a XC race with some gnarly descents.
I'm fat and slow so of course I didn't place well in the race. It was a 40mile race with some climbs and windy flats but most of it was downhill. About 2,800ft of ascent and about 6,500ft of descent. The winner did it about 30mins faster than me... on a hard tail.
The important thing is how much I enjoyed the bike and the race. The bike climbs great, I was able to pass many guys on the steep technical climbs and I believe it was due to the DW Link... The way the bike rolls over roots and rocks is great, it grips great (I'm still using the Slant 6 rear tire which is not the best for the terrain) it just feels planted. On the technical descents I could not stop smiling... This thing just eats the rocks and everything that gets in front... I passed a lot of people using some lines that I would never dare doing before this bike. The windy flats were tough but that was me just being slow.
I weigh 190lbs with all my gear and I have my suspension set to 90psi front, 9clicks and 190 psi, 10 clicks. The front feels a bit hard for the small bumps but I still use full travel. I mainly used the descent mode and Trail-mid for climbs... I only used the climb mode on a paved road. On a trail I don't like to use the climb mode on the rear shock it feels very bumpy and not as efficient... But on the fork it makes sense on some not very technical climbs that make you want to hammer standing up.
I have 2x10 gearing with 24/38 and a 11-36 cassette. I like the low end for very steep climbs and to recover... but I ran out of gears going down fire roads. But for the tarrain I usually ride I'm happy with the gearing.
The only down side of the whole thing is that I bent my derailleur hanger. I don't understand what happened but it really bent. I read in another forum that Clutch derailleurs might be causing issues... but not sure. I hope I can find a replacement soon.
I love the bike and the 34 Fox Float @ 150mm feels great. On very steep hills just lean forward and you will stop the front from wondering around. For my weight I think it totally makes sense to have a stiffer fork than the 32.
I weigh in at 230 with gear and have my FOX 34 fork at 75 psi. I think you have too much air in the fork. Go test it on your trails, if you aren't pushing the o-ring to the end of the fork then you have too much air.
Same with the rear, drop the tech stuff with the phone, click the shock to the descend mode, and bounce hard on your bike to compress the shock, don't put your foot down yet, pull the o-ring up to the end of the shock body, then get off. Use the indicator to confirm you are at 30%.
If you do not compress the shock hard, then you are only measuring static weight, not sag, the shock must be compressed in order for it to push your weight back up to a neutral position to properly measure sag.
If you set sag in any other setting, then you are not doing it correctly. Sag needs to be set in the descend mode. You should also be able to push the o-ring to the end of the shock, and on bigger drops you will push the o-ring off.
"The face of a child can say it all, especially the mouth part of the face".
So I finally got my sag indicator (for some reason id didn't come with the bike)... Today I decided to play with the settings to see if I could improve things.
I've been using full travel back and front with 190 and 85 psi. But I don't like the small bump sensitivity or lack of.
Now with the sag meter I reduced the rear to 180psi (decend mode) was still not alligned with the red line... I think at 170psi it would have been ok. But I decided to go with small changes. I also reduced the fork to 80psi.
I felt an improvement in the small bump sensitivity and the bike felt great climbing (trail mode 1 in rear and 2 in fork) but I bottomed even with very small jumps (less than 2ft to flat). The ring even came off the shock.
I'm wondering if changing the shock sleeve to a low volume and adding some oil to the fork air chamber would improve my situation as it would make the suspension more progressive. For what I understand I could lower the pressure to improve the small bump sensitivity and it would be harder to bottom out.
Any thoughts? Is there a low volume sleeve for the new CDT shocks?
Ring coming off is not necessarily a bottom out - one feels and hears a bottom out. My ring comes off all the time and I've yet to bottom out. The bike is designed to use the full stroke with the shock stiffening with hard (i.e. larger) hits. I weigh in around 175 fully geared up and run the rear at 145 and front between 60 and 65 depending on the trail. Small and large bump compliance has always been good, but there was a big improvement in medium bump compliance after I had the rear shock tuned by PUSH. My suggestion is that you get a custom tune that matches your riding style to your physical attributes. Me thinks you'll be much happier with ride performance.
Originally Posted by sancycling
Wow, that is a lot of pressure in the rear shock.
Originally Posted by sancycling
I weigh about the same and run 150psi., which puts preload where it should be according to the indicator. Are you sitting straight up on the seat instead of a normal riding position when checking preload?
The only thing that makes me use close to full travel in the back is riding lazily with all my weight on the seat or a 3'-ish drops to flat.