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  1. #1
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    CC DB Air on a 5.7C - anyone running this setup

    Love my 5.7C, but am ready to ditch the Pushed RP23 (great shock, just limited for the type of riding I do). Down to either a Fox Float X or DB Air current model or just announced CS. Got all the info I need on the Float X (thanks Brian) and I am now looking for feedback from folks that are running a DB Air on their 5.7 ALU or carbon.
    - How's the climbing? Close to an RP23 fully open? (I only use Pro Pedal on fire road climbs)
    - Set up looks straight forward, any gotcha's?
    - Any issues with fit like the FB?

    Thanks for any and all feedback.

    Note: I'm not interested in a Monarch Plus R or RC3 or XFusion.

  2. #2
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    Its probably a rare event for folks to be running an aftermarket Piggyback on a 100mm travel race type bike. However I would also appreciate the feedback.

  3. #3
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    100mm?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by freebiker View Post
    Its probably a rare event for folks to be running an aftermarket Piggyback on a 100mm travel race type bike. However I would also appreciate the feedback.
    ??? The Mach 5.7c is actually 145 mm, as in 5.7 inches. Me thinks you are mixing this up with a Mach 429c.

  5. #5
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    Wanted to put Float X on my 5.7 alu as well. Called Pivot. They told me they tried it on Carbon 5.7 with no problems.
    Here is the info if you buy it from FOx

    - Extra light velocity tune
    5.875x2.25
    part# for pivot 972-00-808

    That part number will help Fox to tune the shock fro DW pivot application

  6. #6
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    Go x fusion! High 5 Brosiph

  7. #7
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    Float X is no longer being considered. Basically the same price as a CC DB Air without the same tune levels. XFusion makes good gear, but there is no climb mode setting like the CC DB Air CS. So, pretty sure I'm going to pick one up when available in late August. I'll post up impressions then ...

  8. #8
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    let us know if it fits and what tune you are getting.
    I'm pretty much going the same way with the set up of my 5.7 ALu. Burly all mountain at 29lb with 34 fork set at 150 upfront, saint hub and wtb i23 wheel in back. Maxxis dhf and dhr 2 tires. I like it more than firebird on climby rocky terrain. It steps up great and is very plush down even at bike parks.

    Here is the terrain I ride on it. Not my video but you get the picture.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1 View Post
    You really think the Mach 5.7 needs a climb mode beyond some LSC dialed in? I never use the propedal on my RP23.
    Depends on where and how you ride. I've done some climbs that it helped out on, but wasn't an absolute need. My take is the DD Air is a $600 shock that's completely different than the RP23 and I can wait 3 weeks to get the climb mode version to mark the "just in case I need it" checkbox. Rather have it and not use it than not have and want it later. Also leaves more options in how I set it up as well (I.e. Go a little plusher on low speed compression).

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMW503 View Post
    Depends on where and how you ride. I've done some climbs that it helped out on, but wasn't an absolute need. My take is the DD Air is a $600 shock that's completely different than the RP23 and I can wait 3 weeks to get the climb mode version to mark the "just in case I need it" checkbox. Rather have it and not use it than not have and want it later. Also leaves more options in how I set it up as well (I.e. Go a little plusher on low speed compression).
    Same price I say...why not? But what if you could get a CCDB Air for $100 cheaper or more once the new CS model comes out? Then would you still opt for the upgrade? I'm just wondering how much it's actually worth and if it adds unnecessary complication to a stellar shock that's unneeded on a bike like the Mach.
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  11. #11
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    Yep, would still do it. The climb mode for the DB Air is different than Fox. On Fox, the low end is tightend up, so while you get a stiffer pedaling platform, one loses dampening for roll over, roots, rocks, etc. If it performs as Cane Creek claims, the climb mode on the DB Air 2 will offer the pedal platform and eat up the chunder. I use my 5.7c to race Enduro and super d, do AM pleasure rides with wicked descents with gnar-gnar, as well as 25-30 mile epics with steep climbs and 8000 feet+ of vert. So I like as much versatility as possible.

    My other line of thinking is when time to get a new bike, the DB Air 2 will be easier to sell to non-DW Link bike owners. But, again, that's just me and my own subjective line of thinking. BTW, I'm pretty sure the price is supposed to be $40 more than the standard DB Air.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMW503 View Post
    Yep, would still do it. The climb mode for the DB Air is different than Fox. On Fox, the low end is tightend up, so while you get a stiffer pedaling platform, one loses dampening for roll over, roots, rocks, etc. If it performs as Cane Creek claims, the climb mode on the DB Air 2 will offer the pedal platform and eat up the chunder. I use my 5.7c to race Enduro and super d, do AM pleasure rides with wicked descents with gnar-gnar, as well as 25-30 mile epics with steep climbs and 8000 feet+ of vert. So I like as much versatility as possible.

    My other line of thinking is when time to get a new bike, the DB Air 2 will be easier to sell to non-DW Link bike owners. But, again, that's just me and my own subjective line of thinking. BTW, I'm pretty sure the price is supposed to be $40 more than the standard DB Air.
    Yeah, I expect the non-cs ones to get discounted though. Plus at one reputable online dealer you can get a DB Air for under $530. Anyway, where do you ride? Some of that sounds similar to some stuff I ride in Colorado.
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  13. #13
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    I'm on Portland, OR and ride all over Oregon and Washington. Nice mix of soil, terrain, trail types. Would like to hit Colorado at some point.

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    And I've always wanted to ride Oregon but haven't gotten out there yet. Haha, we should trail swap and each act as local guides one day. Hey, that kinda sounds like a cool idea for a TV show...
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  15. #15
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    Trail swap show would be hilarious ... piong me if you make it out this way.

    Just had a thought. I PUSHED my RP23 last Fall and it made a huge difference, so my desire for the DB Air really is not one out of need, but more of fine tuning. That said, once my main bearing starts to go (the beginning not full blown gone), the bike performance starts to go down. Because Pivot uses a small bearing in main, I tend to need to swap them out 2-3 ties a year (remember, it's wet here) and I'm pretty diligent (my wife would say obsessive). Considering how much you've not liked the RP23 of late, I'm wondering if your bearings might need some love? Also, have you rebuilt the shock yet? Certainly not dis'ing your mechanical and maintenance chops, just thought I'd ask before you headed down the path of a $500+ purchase.

  16. #16
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    Well, RP23 is OK, just not phenomenal. I also have one of the older non-CTD, non-Kashima ones so that could be it. I'm not incredibly impressed with its performance. PUSH is pretty close to me. I could actually walk it into the guys at PUSH so I may just do that. You said you noticed a huge difference with a PUSHed shock vs the stock RP23? What kind of differences did you notice? I did get my fork PUSHed and that was huge, but I figured it would make less of an impact with a rear shock on a suspension design like DW-link. I could be wrong. I know my shock is due for service so I might just have them tune it as the shock's service.

    Funny you mentioned bearings. It's pretty dry here so we don't have to do bearings often. I'm on my second season and I just ordered all new bearings for the lower link. I recently tore down the entire bike and took apart the links and cleaned/regreased everything trying to chase down a creak happening under pedal power. Found out there was some play in the lower link that you can feel when you flex the rear wheel/triangle with your finger on the link. I didn't actually pull the bearings, but I had the local shop order some new ones cause it seemed overdue and needed. Sounds like I made the right choice. I'm guessing that should get rid of my play in the rear and hopefully my creaking. Bearings in upper carbon link seemed pretty fresh and not notchy (they're pretty exposed and easy to check) so I didn't bother. Keep in mind I have the 2011 5.7 Al version.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1 View Post
    Well, RP23 is OK, just not phenomenal. I also have one of the older non-CTD, non-Kashima ones so that could be it. I'm not incredibly impressed with its performance. PUSH is pretty close to me. I could actually walk it into the guys at PUSH so I may just do that. You said you noticed a huge difference with a PUSHed shock vs the stock RP23? What kind of differences did you notice? I did get my fork PUSHed and that was huge, but I figured it would make less of an impact with a rear shock on a suspension design like DW-link. I could be wrong. I know my shock is due for service so I might just have them tune it as the shock's service.

    Funny you mentioned bearings. It's pretty dry here so we don't have to do bearings often. I'm on my second season and I just ordered all new bearings for the lower link. I recently tore down the entire bike and took apart the links and cleaned/regreased everything trying to chase down a creak happening under pedal power. Found out there was some play in the lower link that you can feel when you flex the rear wheel/triangle with your finger on the link. I didn't actually pull the bearings, but I had the local shop order some new ones cause it seemed overdue and needed. Sounds like I made the right choice. I'm guessing that should get rid of my play in the rear and hopefully my creaking. Bearings in upper carbon link seemed pretty fresh and not notchy (they're pretty exposed and easy to check) so I didn't bother. Keep in mind I have the 2011 5.7 Al version.
    Well, I'd take an RP23 over a CTD Float any day. That said, if you haven't serviced it, then it is most definitely due. The custom tune is noticeable, but I'll spare you the hyperbole because it wasn't a crazy dramatic difference. Small and medium bump is better and because the tune and progression dampening was for me and the way I like to ride, the bike rides way better than stock. I also got the big hit kit which is a huge asset when casing a jump (that and a small bit of piece of mind). I'm glad I did it and would do it again in a heartbeat. Honestly, if it was me, I'd walk it over, get it rebuilt, and finish the season with it. Allows you to re-evaluate next spring as to whether you want to take the 5.7 further or maybe go more the Mach 6 direction. Really come down to how long you want to keep the bike and how much more you want to invest in it. I'm in a bit of a different situation, as I'll be going 27.5 the next bike and have a 12 year old who will get my 5.7c at that point (Spring 2015 on his current growth trajectory). So, I've got a longer term commitment to the 5.7c and going with a DB Air 2 makes more sense for what else I want to do with the bike (always faster, faster, faster).

    As for your bearings, yep, sounds like they are way over-due. The change over will most definitely get rid of the creak and play. Additionally, I'm going to wager you'll notice a pretty substantial improvement in the ride and suspension performance after the change out. Basically, they've slowly degraded overtime, so one doesn't notice until the performance curve drops in to the **** zone. Even with the dry weather, I'd at least change the main bearings every season ($20) since they get the most wear, heat, and stress (esp lateral). The uppers do better, but I change them out annually just to keep the bike top notch. Last fall, only two of the bearings really needed changing. So, it sounds like one a year for the main, and every two for the rest might be the ticket for your neck of the woods. Regardless, a full change out this week is going to be huge for you.

  18. #18
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    Awesome thanks for the info. Really $20? Bike shop charged me $50 for the lower link bearings from Pivot (but I have 8 in my lower link I think). Did I get taken? Lol usually I try to double check on stuff like that but I have no visibility into manufacturer pricing and the guys seemed cool so I didn't even second guess it.

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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1 View Post
    Awesome thanks for the info. Really $20? Bike shop charged me $50 for the lower link bearings from Pivot (but I have 8 in my lower link I think). Did I get taken? Lol usually I try to double check on stuff like that but I have no visibility into manufacturer pricing and the guys seemed cool so I didn't even second guess it.
    Nah, $20 a pair sounds right; your LBS is taking care of you. Just two on my main bearing (4 total for the entire lower linkage) vs 4 for the 5.7 alu main (8 total for the lower linkage), hence the difference. You may want to swap out the uppers as well, or at least take 'em out, pop the seal and add lube. Oh, which reminds me, Enduro Bearing come lubed, but not with a ton. When you get the new bearings, pop the seal and add extra lube. Seal just pops back in. You'll get more life out of 'em that way. Learning that from my LBS.
    Last edited by JMW503; 08-06-2013 at 09:07 PM.

  20. #20
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    Awesome info all around. Thanks again.

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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1 View Post
    Awesome info all around. Thanks again.

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    No problem. Let me know how it goes ...

  22. #22
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    Bearings are replaced in the lower link. Funny they didn't seem that knackered, but the rear end play and creaking are now gone! I followed the Pivot instructions to the letter, but holy **** what a pain in the ass. They're really in there good. I chewed up my 10mm socket just getting them out and I couldn't get the link to stay still in the bike stand while I banged em out. Next time I'll just pay a shop to do it. Lots of stiction in the rear shock still. Definitely needs some service work. Gonna contact PUSH like you suggested and see what they can do with it.

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    Bringing this back to life.

    So what became of the shock pursuits?
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    I'm interested in hearing what happened with the Mach 5.7 rear shock swap also! OP out there with an update?

  25. #25
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    The new DB Inline might be a great option hereas well.

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