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  1. #1
    Shrinking Clyde Rider :-)
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    How do you define a good bike?

    I have a Speacialized FSRxc that is coming up on two years old this May. In my opinion have had to replace too many components on this bike. I am starting to question if this was bike a good purchase.
    Last edited by tturbotom; 03-30-2008 at 06:40 PM.

  2. #2
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    Can davidson win?

    what comps have you replaced and why? need examples man

  3. #3
    don't tread on me
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    It sounds like it was not a good bike for you. Note the qualifier. Specialized bikes are generally considered "good" bikes. I had a C-dale F1000 hardtail - xt group, lefty with electric lockout, light AL frame - a good bike. Not so for me - I bent it in less than 3months and would torque the rear wheel out of the drops on occaision. Then again I'm solidly in the Clydesdale range. I had to go bigger travel and full squish to gett a durable steed. I run nice bikes now but good would certainly suffice - especially with the advances in tech. Examine your dislikes about the Spec and talk with a few shops to find the bike that fulfills the need.

  4. #4
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    Good job!

    TT:

    You are def a 29er candidate... You should have asked me to ride mine the other day on the ride. I didn't know you were shopping for a bike! Come to FS on a Tuesday and you can take my Redline Mono 9 for a spin. It's rigid and you will want a squish fork, but you can get the idea of the 29er concept.

    Go Hardtail 29er/Made of Nice Steel or 29er full squish...Many to choose from!


    Team Big Dog... Off the Porch and Chas'in ya!



  5. #5
    Shrinking Clyde Rider :-)
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    I am not shopping for another bike. I'm just frustrated that crap keeps breaking. It's not like I bought a $300-400 Walmart bike. I dropped a decent coin (from an average working persons point of veiw) on this bike.

    I am a 6'3" ish Clyde and and ride semi-aggressive XC. I have an X-large bike. Common sense tells me that if someone is getting an X-Large bike the that the components should support the rider. Taller people "typically" weight more than shorter people.

    The wheel set has been an issue since almost the begining. I relaced the rear wheel within the first year because I was tired of replacing broken spokes. They would even break while riding on paved roads. I replaced the free hub in 2007. A few weeks ago I replaced (upgraded) the wheel set because the rear hub took a dump.

    Today I broke the rear shock linkage. This is something I never would have thought would break.

    I thought for sure that I would be replacing the actual shocks (front fork or rear) before something like this.

    I have replaced other things (rear derailluer, cassettes, chains, chain rings, etc ) as well, but I attribute these things to normal wear and tear.

  6. #6
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    Good job!

    TT:

    Now you know why I ride Rigid and Single Speed with Cable Brakes. Even though I do my own work... Less to break! Just wanna Ride!

  7. #7
    don't tread on me
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    Yeah, I feel your pain on the wheels - xt hubs and I don't get along for mtb use - I went thru 2 freehubs in as many years on my AC2, but they work fine on my cx bike. After my 2nd blowout I went DT Swiss and haven't looked back.
    You're not the 1st to blow thru linkage parts on Spec. FSR bikes - a buddy of mine cracks linkages and loses pivot bolts like no ones business. The inherent lateral flex of a horst link four bar has some of the blame. Who knows if parts were torqued to spec. My Ellsworth Moment frame pivots loosened up noticeably after the first 2 rides - obviously not torqued to spec at the factory.
    You're right on the cost/satisfaction deal. You spent a chunk and so far, it hasn't lived up to durability expectations. I'd be annoyed too.

  8. #8
    Tough Guy Extraordinaire
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    How often are you riding and what type of trails?

    I have a very nicely equiped SC Superlight, what I would consider a 'nice' bike. I replace parts with fairly often and my setup is only a year old. The important fact is how much and how hard you ride. I ride 2 to 3 times a week, mostly in the Wissahickon. If I only road every other week or something like that I would be more upset.

    If you use it a lot, it will wear faster. The is even more true if you are a bigger guy. I'm not huge, but I am bigger than the other guys I ride with and I replace parts more often.

    As an example, here is a list of what I have replaced in the last year from wear. I have replaced some other items, but these have been upgrades.

    2 or 3 chains
    1 cassette
    2 chainrings
    many tires
    cables

  9. #9
    Shrinking Clyde Rider :-)
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    During the warmer months I try to get out at least twice a week on my MTBike. In the colder months I try to get out at least once a week. I logged over 1000 miles the first year I had my bike. It is safe to say that number has increase a lot since then. I ride what I call semi aggressive XC. The trails are usually littered with log-overs, rock gardens and roots. I am not one to do big drops. The 1' drops at French Creek are about the biggest I have done. I am not race ready, but I think I can hold my own.

    I have gone through the same amount of these parts:
    2 or 3 chains
    1 cassette
    2 chainrings
    many tires
    cables

    Now add:
    replaced derailluer (bent it, considered normal wear IMO)
    replaced bushing in rear shock (normal wear IMO)
    relaced rear wheel (once in first year)
    replaced wheelset
    broken shock lingage

  10. #10
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    Lee, Are you sitting there impatently waiting for my reply?

    Anyway, What I'm seeing there are typical issues really. The wheels supplied are generally OK for the average rider on the average terrain. Those are something all of us Clydes are going to have to replace. The linkage isn't "typical", but it will happen to someone eventually. In this case, you were the unlucky one. Derailleurs are going to go eventually.
    Would you consider a Hardtail? Less flex in the back, and no bushings or bearings to replace. ttyl, Fahn
    Hubbard Bike Club

  11. #11
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    Good job!

    TT:

    That's not that bad considering we ride in PA. I notice you haven't mentioned fork or shock problems such as leakage or seals which makes you a lucky guy! You can expect to replace the stuff that takes the most abuse, Hence in the dirt and mud the most: Tires, Rims, R. Derailers, Cables, Chains, Cogs, Suspension Pivots are considered maintenance items. Stuff like Frames, Linkage, Forks shouldn't have catastrophic breakage!!!!!!!!!!

    I end up replacing everything maintenance worthy on my bike throughout the year. I clean and lube/service my chain and cogs often. It's not fun, but needs to be done, besides it saves money and adds to performance. On other pre ride days I lube my cables. This will save lot's and it needs to be done for performance to be crisp. Learn to true your wheels and do it a few times a year, it's not that hard, and you don't need to go nuts just a quarter or half turn most of the time is all they need. A straw from a WD 40 can and a little duct tape makes a great(cheap) truing guide taped to a forkleg or chainstay.

    If you plan on keeping your bike or buy a new bike buy extra:
    Normal:
    Tires
    Tubes
    Chain and quick link
    Rear Cog
    Fr Chainrings
    Cables(inners)
    Brake Pads
    Grips
    Note Replace new all three: chain, cog, and ch rings at the same time

    Not so Normal:
    Wheel Bearings
    Bottom Bracket Bearings
    Rear Hub Cog Carrier

    Support your LBS... They can help with many things. Ask for a few extra spokes and nipples to fit your wheels.

    The Key is not to ruin rides due to maintenance failures out on the trail. Crashes and accidents can't be helped especially since you ride with Super Heros... LOL!

  12. #12
    Shrinking Clyde Rider :-)
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    The linkage and the wheels are the things that have me most annoyed, but then again they have both caused me serious problems within weeks of each other. The other stuff listed are things I would expect to replace. I have wondered if a hardtail may have been a better choice, but since I took the plunge on a full suspension I can't afford to go back. At least not at the moment.

    The rear shock and fork seem to be holding up just fine, knock on wood. I'm actually suprised they have not gave me any problems yet. I am sure they will both blow out on my next ride now that I mention it. :-P

    I try to maintain my bike the best I can. I always lube the joins, shocks, and chain. I clean the chain as well as any other necessary parts as needed . I check the bolts to make sure they are not coming loose. I always check the spokes and axles to make sure everything is in proper working order.

    I hope to soon ride through this moment of constant breakage. Wish me luck.

  13. #13
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    we are close in size and have similar riding styles, the 29r (like Iverson) is not the answer for everyone (not even the nuggets), it sounds more like a string of bad luck, then a cursed bike. The broken linkage sounds like the only anomaly. We all spend for upkeep and will no matter the wheel diameter.

    things i go through every:

    6 months:
    tires
    gloves
    cleats

    12 months
    tires
    chain
    cables
    grips
    shoes / cleats

    18 to 24month
    cassette
    front rings
    chain
    cables
    break piston pads
    rear deral pulleys
    bushings

    3 years+
    rotors
    break cables
    derals (however with good maintenance techniques they can last 10 years)

    4 years
    wheel set (only good maintenance gets them this far)
    pedals

    5 to 7 years +
    new frame depending on weld hold and cracks
    new fork / shock

    good luck.

  14. #14
    ganginwood
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    all normal wear and tear. at 6' 3" and a clydesdale, i'd say its par for the course. you might want to invest in a set of crossmax wheels with straight pull zicral spokes. they are not cheap but i've run them for the past 8 years and have never trued a spoke nor had an issues with cracking rims. i'm much smaller than you (155 pounds) but ride aggressively and abuse my ****. there has been times where i snapped 2 spokes on the same wheel and they never came out of true. i continued using the wheel for a month until i got down to the shop. they make several models, and with your dimensions i wouldn't recommend the slr's. you might even consider the through axle option with the sx. that might give you some lateral stability to relieve unwanted pressure on the rim. i'm not saying mavic makes the best wheels, but there is something to be said about a mavic build.
    as to your original question.....most bikes at that level are pretty much the same. if the fit is there....its a good bike.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Aswell
    the 5th poster, ganginwoods, is correct

  15. #15
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    Less Bike more skill... It's easy to blame the ride... A lot of time it is riding smoother, flowin better through the trail rather than hacking your way through... All parts take a beating on a mountain bike regardless of your size... They are almost all wearable items... It's part of the sport... I have found that the more expensive $hit breaks even quicker... I ride deore so I don't cry each time I bust something... Go singlespeed fully rigid and limit the crap that can go wrong... You'll be a better man because of it!!!

  16. #16
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    TT...I actually scaled DOWN this year, as you saw on the ride as I feel personally, that I don't need a full suspension bike for the way I ride.

    However, look at Lee's option, the 29er way seems to be the way, either in a 1x 9 or SS. Might take some getting used to. Not to be a salesman here, but I set Lee up with all of his and a bunch of guys down here on the Downhill bikes..so again..might be an option worth considering.

    Kev

  17. #17
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    Wink

    Kev/TT:

    Agreed, with the 29er you can always take your tech up a level by riding stuff that a 26er could not ever even think of! More and more Steel Rigid 29ers are winning races! So it's not about the trail getting rough it's about improvement of the breed. Look at motorcycles they come in all wheel sizes to fit different people. Adult bicycle makers are just finding that out.

    Gotta be the feel of steel though, Alu just doesn't cut it, Harsh ride in hardtail form! With a clydesdale on board Alu. just "cracks" due to the non forgiveness of the tubing as we have all seen. Road bikes use carbon stays and forks... Why? They give! Absorb shock and allow for flex. As for wheels with Alu spokes, they are stiff, but they break faster than stainless steel spokes which are more ductal.

    No "whining" here just riding stuff others with 26ers wish they could ride.

    Kev: I need to get "Intense" but "Nik" could be another "DH" choice... Might mean having to ride a Scorpa/Yamaha though... LOL! The boys are restless... I got yelled at again for suggesting the "Fly" to allow a little riding uphill.. they told me if it has more than 9 gears it won't fit in the Race Rig!

    Guess I gotta stock up on Yamahaitus, Yamatoe and Yamathumb first aid...



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  18. #18
    Shrinking Clyde Rider :-)
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    Being relatively new to the sport (3 years and counting), I am starting to feel the painful truth about the costs involved in riding. I guess I need ot suck it up and deal. Or make my own parts that won't break as often. :-)

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by NEPMTBA
    Agreed, with the 29er you can always take your tech up a level by riding stuff that a 26er could not ever even think of!...
    More and more Steel Rigid 29ers are winning races!...
    No "whining" here just riding stuff others with 26ers wish they could ride...
    Lee
    It's "LAME" bait (not "flame" bait) when thrown out there by a 29er rider...

    Fahn
    Hubbard Bike Club

  20. #20
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    Larry....um...I don't get the point here. Not to start anything, but please stay ON TOPIC. No bash fest please, we have a legitimate topic going and there is no need to bring up the 29er/26er BS. Right now in the industry, which I am PART of, the 29er is driving the sales in a big way. They are winning races, and customers as well as I have sold 12 of them since the 20th of March...so...something is up.

    Maybe you have had a problem with them or don't know how to ride one. If you need assistance with learning, I suggest you contact someone at Hubbard for instructions on how to handle a real bike. No sarcasimn intended...but all of us here have assisted Tom in answering his questions and I don't appreciate you hijacking a thread because you don't like 29'ers. I myself don't personally ride one..I perfer the 26inch version...Hardtail..Aluminum..suits me fine. We're just trying to help someone.

    Ok Tom...sorry...and to reply to your last post..."Welcome to the Money Pit"..or as Lee says when he see's something new and shiny...."You Buy??" See you on the next ride!...maybe this weeks downhill???

    Kevin

  21. #21
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    Larry Speaking of Whiners is one of those Bit#$es that if the 29er was around first and the next big thing was 26ers he'd have something lame to say about it too... It's about personal preference and a number or reasons to choose 26 over 29... Your riding style, types of terrain you hit, stunts, etc, etc... Larry, please place your nookie back in your mouth and set the baby in for a nap... Peace all... Sorry for Rant but this dude is always out to ruin a good topic...

  22. #22
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    Thank You Sir. Also, .as a professional businessman and Mt. Biker, I think Larry, you are doing Hubbard a disservice with your 29'er signiature. I thought we were supposed to be in this together? You are invoking controversy with the tag and that will only bring a heap of scorn on you and your club. From what I understand Hubbard has many 29er's on the mountain. You would be best to treat all riders with courtesy regardless of what they ride.

    End of subject.

    Kevin

  23. #23
    Wizard of the Trail
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    Guys, you need to lighten up. You make Larry sound like some type of 29er bike nazi. I have nothing but respect for this guy for taking me and my nephew out to the trails. Maybe he likes to break balls, but jeez give him a break.
    There is no charge for awesomeness......or attractiveness.

    Good rep does not wash out the bad, nor the bad the good.

  24. #24
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    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by LarryFahn
    Lee
    It's "LAME" bait (not "flame" bait) when thrown out there by a 29er rider...

    Fahn
    Larry:

    With over 40 years of experience riding all types of wheeled vehicles I didn't "BAIT" anyone, I just stated the facts from my point of view on riding a 26 vs a 29 since I ride both and to help TT with his thread questions. I feel a 29er would be to his benefit and it is his decision weather he goes for one or rides what he has I am always willing to help.
    I love my 29ers and they work great for me, that's all that matters when the handlebars are in my hands... I RIDE... let's do more of that!

  25. #25
    Wizard of the Trail
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    Your full crap Lee! I am still waiting for my bushings and dogbone!!! Just kiddin Lee! About the crap part. LOL
    There is no charge for awesomeness......or attractiveness.

    Good rep does not wash out the bad, nor the bad the good.

  26. #26
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    Hey, Stay on topic guys...

    I define a good bike like my old '96 Trek 930 frame. I'm a Clyde myself. I've replaced all my parts at least 4 times. But my 26" frame is still in one piece. I know of a Clyde who broke several... 4 I believe, 29ers. Lee, is your DH going to be a 29er?

    My replacements
    Fork- 96 RS Judy, 98 Judy, 01 Black
    RD- XT, XT, XT, XTR, LX and now X0 (3 years!)
    FD- XTR, XT
    Tires- 25?
    Cables and housing- 40?
    Rear wheel- 5
    Front wheel- 3
    Seatpost- 4
    Saddles-4
    Spokes- Haaaa!
    Shifters- 5
    Brake sets- Do you want V-brakes or Hydraulic? prolly 6 or 7 combined.
    Headset- Only 1 and it's a King!
    Bar- 2, this was mainly preference.
    Cranks- 6
    Casette- 5
    Chains- I lost count

    As you can see Tom, parts will eventually go due to our weight, wear, weather, and where we ride. I recommend staying away from the "race" parts. I think that the parts that will wear no matter what (RD, casette, chain and even cranks) aren't worth going above X7/LX. If your shifters match your casette and are tuned properly, you won't have any problems, ya know? Anything above that and your kinda categorizing into the "race components". I thought I saw in this post somewhere that you were thinking of getting/ or someone recommended Mavics? Don't. Even Lee can agree with that. Hope, Hadley or King seem to be necessary to handle Clydes anymore unfortunatley. If the wheel is your main issue, you might have to invest $250+ I take it it's the back one with the issues and not the front?
    When you were up I didn't meet you. Ya think Lee would have introduced us!

    FWIW Kev, There are a couple 29er's up Hubbard. But for those who don't get sarcasm, can take it personally if they so desire.

    I ride a bike, do you guys? I don't care if it's a HT, DH, FR or SS. 24", 26" 29", or 700C. Any roadies here?

    Lee, See you on Saturday. ttyl, Fahn
    Hubbard Bike Club

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by tturbotom
    I have a Speacialized FSRxc that is coming up on two years old this May. In my opinion have had to replace too many components on this bike. I am starting to question if this was bike a good purchase.
    To me, the "bike" is the frame. I haven't read all of the posts in this thread yet, but sounds like the component group is the issue. Thats no reason to be down on Specialized or the frame.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by tturbotom
    Common sense tells me that if someone is getting an X-Large bike the that the components should support the rider.
    As far as I'm concerned, the only components that should really fail under heavier weight would be seat posts or cranks.

  29. #29
    Shrinking Clyde Rider :-)
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    I appreciate all of the comments. I am reading between the lines are sponging all the useful info. :-)

    The only Specialized part that has broken has been the shock link. I am having the shop look at it tomorrow. I hope it is covered under warranty. If not I will have to deal.

    The original wheelset was garbage to say the least. I have since upgrade to a DT Swiss/XT wheelset. I hope it lasts longer than the last set. If not Chris King here I come; I better start saving now.

    Thanks again for all the input.

  30. #30
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    We the people ...

    WOW! Slightly off topic to start here but...

    Randy:

    The bushings are right where I left them on the bench by the Lathe.? Yes, I graduated from "s88THead" to "Full of Crap" I honor the new level and promise to uphold my position! How have you been?

    Larry:

    29er DH hell yes! We have (2) 26er DH frames in the shop. They are being hacked. Still working on design, but I plan to build a 96er DH. Just gotta get all the Sprint Car stuff out first. Unc's banned me from the Bridgeport this week... The 96er frame project was replaced by some Solar Panel bracket project for the Race Rig RV... GOD, now we are going GREEN and I don't mean Kawasaki! Just wait till I get the 36er done, I'll give ya something to whine about... LOL! Here's your new Sig line: THAT'S REALLY DUMB DID YOU MAKE THAT?... LOL!

    Here's a thread that will surprise you:
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=393118

    Back to topic:

    Mavic Needs to beef up their freehubs in a Clyde application. Even the Demax doesn't hold up. Ask Jack. "King is the King" There is still something about a finely tuned Steel Spoked Wheel. Done correctly by a pro wheelwright it can be felt to actually propel you forward.(aka Sweet Ride) Done incorrect and it will wander or ride like a rock.

    Kev: TT so needs a Redline Mono 9... Pluses: Suspension never leaks and is always locked out yet, compliant to the trail(Steel is Real). No front derailer or shifter to break! Shorty rear derailer doesn't hang down far less likely to snag a stick. Shorter chain less links. Cable discs haul "MY" 265lb a** down from speed and never leak or need bleeding. Price is right and ya could buy a new one every year and not worry about fixing much! Just take it out a beat it. I DO! It holds up to my 265 and all the Trials stuff I do so TT it will be fine for you... U BUY? Sorry I had to... LOL!

    What's a ROADIE?... Is that a new wheel size? I want one!
    Spring is here Let's Freek'in RIDE

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by LarryFahn
    Hey, Stay on topic guys...

    I define a good bike like my old '96 Trek 930 frame. I'm a Clyde myself. I've replaced all my parts at least 4 times. But my 26" frame is still in one piece. I know of a Clyde who broke several... 4 I believe, 29ers. Lee, is your DH going to be a 29er?

    My replacements
    Fork- 96 RS Judy, 98 Judy, 01 Black
    RD- XT, XT, XT, XTR, LX and now X0 (3 years!)
    FD- XTR, XT
    Tires- 25?
    Cables and housing- 40?
    Rear wheel- 5
    Front wheel- 3
    Seatpost- 4
    Saddles-4
    Spokes- Haaaa!
    Shifters- 5
    Brake sets- Do you want V-brakes or Hydraulic? prolly 6 or 7 combined.
    Headset- Only 1 and it's a King!
    Bar- 2, this was mainly preference.
    Cranks- 6
    Casette- 5
    Chains- I lost count

    As you can see Tom, parts will eventually go due to our weight, wear, weather, and where we ride. I recommend staying away from the "race" parts. I think that the parts that will wear no matter what (RD, casette, chain and even cranks) aren't worth going above X7/LX. If your shifters match your casette and are tuned properly, you won't have any problems, ya know? Anything above that and your kinda categorizing into the "race components". I thought I saw in this post somewhere that you were thinking of getting/ or someone recommended Mavics? Don't. Even Lee can agree with that. Hope, Hadley or King seem to be necessary to handle Clydes anymore unfortunatley. If the wheel is your main issue, you might have to invest $250+ I take it it's the back one with the issues and not the front?
    When you were up I didn't meet you. Ya think Lee would have introduced us!

    FWIW Kev, There are a couple 29er's up Hubbard. But for those who don't get sarcasm, can take it personally if they so desire.

    I ride a bike, do you guys? I don't care if it's a HT, DH, FR or SS. 24", 26" 29", or 700C. Any roadies here?

    Lee, See you on Saturday. ttyl, Fahn

    Larry...I ride to Gettysburg and then over to Lancaster every second weekend in September!...on..get this...a '84 Vintage Schwinn Paramount that has over 40,000 lifetime miles on it. (upgraded as much as possible) No BS either..ask Lee. Also, I do some really rediculous day rides...and I'm always looking for guys to ride with, so..email me if you're interested...no racing mind you...just a nice long road tour.

    Kevin

  32. #32
    Wizard of the Trail
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    Lee, I am doing good. How have you been? I am getting my stuff together for riding this year. Don't worry about the bushings, no one is riding that bike anyway. I do need some heim bushings made though. I bought a 5th element shock that I can't use because no one has these bushings. I also bought a utility quad to ride around with. There is nothing better than flying down a hill on bike though.
    There is no charge for awesomeness......or attractiveness.

    Good rep does not wash out the bad, nor the bad the good.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plains Bike
    Larry...I ride to Gettysburg and then over to Lancaster every second weekend in September!...on..get this...a '84 Vintage Schwinn Paramount that has over 40,000 lifetime miles on it. (upgraded as much as possible) No BS either..ask Lee. Also, I do some really rediculous day rides...and I'm always looking for guys to ride with, so..email me if you're interested...no racing mind you...just a nice long road tour.

    Kevin
    But, If Larry comes along he has to ride a 26 inch wheeled bike cause road is basically 29er/700c, same rim at least! So he can't ride that kind of bike(aka 29er road)

    Tee Hee Hee


    Ride ON - Fish ON - Computer OFF

  34. #34
    Shrinking Clyde Rider :-)
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    I found out today that the broken linkage with be replaced under warranty. Hopefully I can go a little while without breaking something.

  35. #35
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    Last night wasn't cheap...
    4 broken spokes, 1 ripped sidewall where the tube "shot" out and a rim.

    Due to a broken spoke I decided to take the shortcut out. Going down to Bosacs, it sounded like a 22 rifle going off. The sidewall was ripped and the tube shot out. It's a long walk back when it's dark out, so I hopped on and rode lightly down the powerline leaning more on the front. The rim is still useable, but it flexes too much for my liking, so it's time to upgrade the rim while I'm at it. When I got back there were a total of 4 spokes that were broke!

    Tom, FWIW. If Gilboy reads this, he might have some input on the link. If I remember he had one break in half at the welds. I'm not sure if it was last years model or the year before though. But that was also covered under the warranty. ttyl, Fahn
    Hubbard Bike Club

  36. #36
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    I've known a few clydes who just couldn't manage to ride a stumpy fsr or fsxc for a season without breaking a frame. Move 'em to a burlier frame (say, an enduro) and they're in heaven.

    I do think that with all the testing bike companies do on their products, they need to consider the effects clydes have on a bike compared to lightweights. I'm a 155lb guy and even I bend shock bolts on my stumpy fsr (03) every couple years. I replace the bearings at EVERY pivot about yearly because they go out on me. I also managed to snap several spokes on the stock wheelset, and I've completely mashed lightweight xc rims in the past. Derailleurs tend to last me awhile, though. I'm good at not snapping them off after losing a couple in my early years of riding. My current XTR rear/LX front just hit year 5. and they're good as new.

    Being a clyde, I'd expect stock xc-oriented wheels to suffer bad. For that, you really need to consider burlier wheels almost at the beginning. Anything with bearings is also going to suffer if they're poor quality. Poor quality wheel bearings will get trashed. Poor quality BB's will die. You'll be hard on pedal bearings, too, and linkage bearings. For these reasons alone, I'd avoid an xc bike from the beginning if you're a clyde and look into AM/freeride bikes.

    As for your shock linkage (warranty issue), if it broke for you, it would have broken for any rider if they went off-road.

  37. #37
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    Well here is what i have replaced...

    on my Titus Moto-Lite in 2 years, although it seems a bit excessive I have really enjoyed the riding and the ride:

    2/18/06 Titus Moto-Lite 2006 Serial #1501270107 $3083-1000Trade= $2083

    4/28/06 New Titus Ti Saddle $ 47
    8/3/06 Installed new Derail Hangar 20
    9/7/06 Bled rear brakes and added mineral oil 10
    11/26/06 Installed new Derail hangar 20
    12/15/06 Bought spare Derail Hangar 20
    12/12/06 Installed Kenda Nevegal 2.1 Rear 40
    1/14/07 Installed new XT Rapid Rise Derail & new cable 79
    5/11/07 Fox Vanilla Oil Chg & Seals replaced(ATB) 80
    6/2/07 Changed F&R Tires Kenda Nevegal 2.3 (Ricks) 0
    6/8/07 Installed new rear brake pads 0
    9/9/07 Fox Vanilla Oil chg & Dust wiper seals replaced(Taco) 23
    10/20/07 Installed n Spoke Rwheel, bought 2 spares(ATB) 20
    11/16/07 New Ext.BB & Ohaul, new LX middle chain ring(ATB) 85
    11/17/07 Install new chain,cassette,Rapid Rise Derail,& cable (Denis) 70
    3/8/08 Install new bushing on bottom of Fox RP3 (ATB) 23
    4/11/08 Installed new Kenda Nevegal 2.1 on Rear 40
    There are two paths you can go by but in the long run........

  38. #38
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    Tom- I happen to know someone who has broken the shock linkage connecting point twice,both times taken care of by Specialized.

    '06 Fuji Outland RC-built up last spring
    -saddle 1
    -tires front and rear
    -tubes-who the hell counts,we ride NEPA rocks and thorns
    -chain x2
    -rear cassette x2
    -middle chainring x2
    -granny ring x2
    -big ring x1 ( freakin rock gardens)
    -cables and housings x2
    -front and rear brake pads x2
    "There is a road--no simple highway"

  39. #39
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    Remember...

    If it aint Scottish...It's CRAP!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  40. #40
    I'm more of a dog person
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    Yeah, seems like this dude larry, from what i've seen from him many times before, is exactly the type of guy that mtn biking does NOT need to have involved. he is a know-it-all poseur that does nothing but sit at his computer and riducule everyone for not being like him. thinks he's cool though because he belongs to a bike club. basically just another a**hole.

  41. #41
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    How do you define a good bike?

    Yeah,turbo it does pay to play but the benifits are greater than great.I mean can you really put a price on riding.Oh and about your subjuct title,my definition of a good bike is anything you ride.You'll adapt to it no matter what it is,or how much it cost.It's all about having fun and not realizing that there is a bike underneath you while you weave through the trees.Send it,pin it,climb it,whatever just get out and ride it.
    Last edited by whattree?; 04-19-2008 at 11:50 PM. Reason: forgot some stuff

  42. #42
    Shrinking Clyde Rider :-)
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    Trust me, the enjoyment I get from riding is priceless. I am sure that most avid riders feel the same way. Several weeks without my mountain bike is tough though. Good thing I have a road bike to keep my legs going.

    The responses that I have received in this thread have been very informative for me. Couple that with the experiences I have had with my bike(s) and I walk (or ride) away with more knowledge. With that said I feel that in the future I will be able to make a more informed decision when it comes to making purchases.

  43. #43
    Ride da mOOn Moderator
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    ... and if we just ...

    Quote Originally Posted by tturbotom
    Trust me, the enjoyment I get from riding is priceless. I am sure that most avid riders feel the same way. Several weeks without my mountain bike is tough though. Good thing I have a road bike to keep my legs going.

    The responses that I have received in this thread have been very informative for me. Couple that with the experiences I have had with my bike(s) and I walk (or ride) away with more knowledge. With that said I feel that in the future I will be able to make a more informed decision when it comes to making purchases.
    ROAD BIKE... What's that? ...LOL!

    The key words:
    BUY A SPARE BIKE OR TWOTHREE...

  44. #44
    Shrinking Clyde Rider :-)
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    the saga continues with a busted bearing in the new shock link. err

  45. #45
    Someone stole my Pacific!
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    Tom,

    Is that an actual ball bearing in that linkage or a friction bearing (i.e. a bushing of some sort)?

    I don't know much about bikes, but I know a little bit about bearing/bushing failure. Reading through the previous posts, it sounds like the rear shock should last much longer than it is for you. I would look at that setup with a very critical eye looking for some sort of misalignment somehow, such as a slightly bent mounting point for the shock, bent shaft, or something else that is putting a load on the bearing that it isn't designed for.

    The best bearing in the world designed to take radial loads will still fail quickly if subjected to axial loads and vice versa.

    Looking back through the posts, you've had 3 failures with this part of the suspension. Sounds like there's something wrong with the basic setup of the linkage.

    Good luck to ya and I hope ya get it fixed for good!

    BTW...stupid question, but you didn't save the old bad parts, did you? Maybe you can learn something from way they are failing.

  46. #46
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    I didn't read through all the posts, but I'll add this, if you replaced the rear wheel, then had to replace it again, you didn't get the right wheel the first time you replaced it.

    If you get a good clydeworthy wheelset it can last years. I went 3 seasons on the same set of Rhynolites XLs on XT hubs. And they last several more years on my townie bike even with a big dent and flat spot in the rear. I just recently cut the hubs out to use in a new wheelset.

    I made it 2 seasons on Single Tracks on DMR hubs, but lost both in a crash. Thats how it goes.

    Yeah it sucks that you have to keep replacing wheels, I hope the last wheelset you bought was right for you. Barring nasty wrecks a good wheelset will last many seasons.

    As for the linkage, again, it happens. If you bought the bike new it should be under warranty. My first FS bike lasted less then a year before the swing arm broke into 5 peices in the middle of a ride. My second one last 2 seasons. I went back to a Hardtail because I prefer them for trail riding and they make better single speeds.

  47. #47
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    Wow, I'll add some more I just noticed this is an old thread, but I'm going to leave it up anyway.

    BTW, am I allowed in the PA forum? Born and raised in PA just left, already trying to figure out when we can move back. Plus I'm a 6'1" 250 pound clyde.

    Back on topic.

    29ers are not for everyone, not even all tall guys. I tried to take the plunge this year and I am not sold. I do see the benifits of the big wheels, but they just aren't as nimble and my SC Chameleon (A great Clyde friendly frame BTW) and I just don't find them as fun to ride. As far is reliability, they are no better then a 26 inch bike. Yes a rigid single speed is the ultimate in low maintence, but it doesn't matter if it's a 26 inch or 29 inch wheel. I do think that in that set up a 29inch wheel is the better choice. So if I was building a rigid single speed I'd build a 29er. But for an all around trail bike, I still prefer a 26 inch hardtail with a longer fork (130 to 150mm).

    To address wheels. I don't see why you need to go the CK route. You can get a plenty strong wheelset without dropping that kind of cash. A set of DMR revolver hubs and Sun single Tracks are an awesome value. They won't be as light as if you dropped a ton of cash, but they will get the job done.

  48. #48
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    To me a good bike is defined a lot by the type of terrain you ride on. All the different types of bikes have a different feel depending on the terrain. I like 29ers for towpaths and rides on fairly smooth terrain, and 26ers on the quick stuff. Haven't got into 69ers or 650b yet.

  49. #49
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    Well lets see....a few more things ...

    to do before the trip to KT Vermont.

    Change Fork Oil
    Replace Dust wipers on Fork
    new brake pads in front
    new chain
    new tire
    new shifter cables

    always seems like somethin' when your ridin' in hard in all conditions

    Ride On!
    There are two paths you can go by but in the long run........

  50. #50
    Shrinking Clyde Rider :-)
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    Quote Originally Posted by nozoxon
    Is that an actual ball bearing in that linkage or a friction bearing (i.e. a bushing of some sort)?
    There are four bearing in the shock link. One completely failed, two are almost frozen as they don't spin smooth, that last is in good working order. I ordered 4 new bearings and hope to have everything back together by the weekend.

    Quote Originally Posted by dwnhlldav
    I didn't read through all the posts, but I'll add this, if you replaced the rear wheel, then had to replace it again, you didn't get the right wheel the first time you replaced it.

    As for the linkage, again, it happens. If you bought the bike new it should be under warranty.
    I relaced the rear wheel once, retaining the OE rim and hub. After the rear hub blew out I replaced the entire wheel set. I am still rolling on the new set.

    The linkage was replaced under warranty about 2 months ago. I would rather bite the bullet and fix it myself then be without my bike for another month.

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