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  1. #51
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    Wow, great adventure.

    Speaking of tandems on the Great Divide, I just want to mention that the Katie and Sam tandem team finished the Tour Divide this year in third place overall, in a sizzling 19 days. She was the captain and he the stoker.

  2. #52
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    That is awesome!

  3. #53
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    Alpgajag: I have a weird thing going on with pics. We sort of made a decision to not pursue photography on this outing. I've put a lot of effort into casual shooting in past trips. We didn't bring a dedicated camera. Posting from smartphone isn't very user friendly. I'll try to paint visuals with prose, and kindly accept my apology if the posts are less than vivid!

  4. #54
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    Anne, we have been thinking about the tandem team in the race the entire time we've been riding. Huge congrats to Katie and Sam!! Most impressive ride!!

    Thank you for posting that exciting and awe-inspiring news

  5. #55
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    We hit Crooked Creek Guest Ranch last night, a very bike-friendly stop just off the route. The map makes little mention of this stop, so I must elaborate...Super friendly people, nice saloon/eatery, lots of elec outlets at tables, free camping anywhere on the grounds. Nice local beer selection. Kinda easy to miss...we thought we had passed it when we ran into another rider going SoNo. Asked if it was up ahead, and he sez No services til Pinedale (70 miles away). A few hundred yards later we saw the sign, replete with "Great divide riders welcome," but the sign only read going NoSo! Poor lad passed it

  6. #56
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    Bless people and their (at times misguided) concern for safety of the wayward...

    Nasty, deep gravel shoulders going uphill. Two way traffic approaching, do we dismount or struggle? We start gutting it out, wobbly, struggling; the car going our way slows to our speed, blocking us us from getting back on the good part of the road. "Did you do okay with that terrible weather?" Came the question from the passenger window. Still struggling to maintain forward momentum, I fire back "weather's okay, but these loose shoulders are a b____! Thankfully the driver clued in immediately and hit the gas, surrendering the ten-inch wide strip of packed gravel road.

  7. #57
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    I opened my eyes this AM and looked into the sky through the bug net. A bald eagle flew by, reminding me to relay this:

    Climbing up above buffalo Fork river, some great overviews of the River appear. We saw a huge bald cruising downriver and stopped to watch from above. He pulled up and laded on a sandbar, right next to another bald. A third one swooped down and joined them. A fourth circled nearby. A county worker walked by with a weed sprayer and asked what we was gawking at. Ambling along, continuing his duty, he mutters back Well, that's something you don't see everyday.

  8. #58
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    Like an old man with nothing better to do...I could thumb out stories all day of the wonders, minuscule and larger, that mosaic together to form our ride as we know it. But we gotta push over Union Pass and relish the dozens of miles of mild DH to Pinedale. Blessed cloud cover ushers the way today. It's 10am and the tent is still up...lazy morning at last.

    We hope everyone is having a great summer, and that bike riding is a big part of it. Mind that fun meter, and stay safe!

    Mike and Moria

  9. #59
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    Thanks for continuing to share the stoke. Its inspiring!

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by She&I View Post
    Alpgajag: I have a weird thing going on with pics. We sort of made a decision to not pursue photography on this outing. I've put a lot of effort into casual shooting in past trips. We didn't bring a dedicated camera. Posting from smartphone isn't very user friendly. I'll try to paint visuals with prose, and kindly accept my apology if the posts are less than vivid!
    I can understand the wanting to be concentrating more on the ride and a lot less on the pics.

    Your prose works just as well.

  11. #61
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    Nice to be in Pinedale, Wyoming!

    It always seems a shame to heft stuff around the countryside and never use it. With that in mind (?) we met a bit of nasty weather at the subalpine plateau some miles before the Union Pass. We ditched it under a handy info kiosk to make a plan. Hunkering down near 10k' in the storm sounded like a dank and indefinite sentence. Some guys in a pickup pulled over to relay some option details. We decided to run the 10-mile plateau to get to better weather. I did feel more than a little guilty, railing down and over open meadows and thru forest patches, hooting at the wind blasts, a crazy grimace on my rain-pelted face, comfortable and having fun beyond all reason. I was the rain fairing for my ardent stoker...who admitted later to looking up only a few times during the slopfest. I smile widely thinking what we must have looked like to the antelope bounding out of out way in the rain. LOL

    The bike shop (aka A-Z Hardware) was a productive stop for a minor issue. Dale had lots of good advice and good humor. Wind River Brewing...good stuff! Local brew pub with product in local stores in cans only, thanks!

    Five days riding to Rawlins in AM, so check ya in a few days, peeps! Be well and when in doubt, go for it. CHEERS!
    Last edited by She&I; 07-12-2014 at 06:00 AM.

  12. #62
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    Well, well...an island of bike-friendly civilization in the Big Nothing. Atlantic City WY is happening Tues-Sun, and we we just rolled into the AC Mercantile Bar and Restaurant for the usual burgers and beer. The place is a museum of artifacts...and sells Grand Terin Brewing products

    So this chill Brit walking down the street says Hey I think you guys can get the teepee tonight, I just moved over to the cabin. He is riding the divide from So CO to somewhere north I can't remember. So we go the the other bar next door, Miners Grubstake Bar, Cafe and Store, just before closing. Do you ever belly up to a bar and ask for...a teepee? No, you smile and breathe in the tobacco and be glad these people are here. And then you order enough beer to get you buzzed every night from here to Rawlins. Then you ask how you pay for a night in the teepee. Then they say it's free for customers, they close the bar and walk out, leaving you with the beer and the teepee in front of the bar. Simple.

    Today we rode along the Continental Divide, looking over on one massive watershed on each side, one draining to the Atlantic , the other the Pacific. The Wyoming countryside is open and often desert-like. The afternoon and evening storms might be subsiding, but in any case we'll be good in the teepee.

  13. #63
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    No picture and only prose make me want to see and experience it even more for myself. Thanks for the posts. Love checking in on your progress.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

  14. #64
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    Thanks for the reciprocal stoke, blue!

    The last three days from Pinedale to Rawlins has been a sensory overload through the heart of The Big Nothing. The two bars in Atlatic City were a fun diversion. Beyond that, no trees for 200 miles, just the sublime nothingness of non development. We got cocky dodging weather and got pounded by sideways hail and rain. Muddy roads are the worst rain danger IMO; it can shut you down right now. Thankfully the rains mostly just kept the dust and sand in check, and made for a heavenly damp desert scent.

    Too many pronghorns to count. One group had 14. Wild mustangs playing with us, running along the road, stopping, bolting, repeat. Never seen a badger before yesterday...but their den holes are ubiquitous along the BLM and County roads.

    The people have been a hoot. We've met a few divide riders, but none more impressive than Joe and his kids. He rides a Fandango tandem with his youngest son (11?), the 15 yr old rides a bikepacked-out MTB, the 17 yr old pulls a trailer on his bike. They are crushing it, and rode like 80+ miles yesterday. Go, boys!!

    First flat in 1200 miles, a simple thorn/patch job. Streak broken...

    We gotta pick up out mail cache, so gotta roll. First I gotta figure out WTH the weasel is doing in the dollar store...

    Colorado state line tomorrow or so. Cheers!!

  15. #65
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    Another thanks for your posts! A fantastic read.

    Re: bless people and their concern, etc...ha,ha...get on a bike, add some panniers & other assorted bags, pedal out to the boonies and people are so " they are slightly crazy " nice to you! :-)

  16. #66
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    We made it out of the barren, otherworldly Wyoming backcountry, and to Steamboat Lake SP, Colorado--if barely. So nice to see my old friend...it's been a couple of years since I rode the CO Trail and I'll be great to ride in some of the same areas in a few days.

    Thirty days of riding, combined with cavalier attention to calorie input caught up to me. I was spiraling down for a couple of long days, eventually having difficulty eating. And we all know where this leads. Not riding! With a few miles of steep grade to push over to the lake, we actually (gasp!) flagged a ride from some very nice people in a car and truck who were more than happy to deposit us near the lake. It was pretty awesome to have a wilderness first responder and RN hop outa their cars and assess my situation. Thank you Travis and Angel Nurse! Cool buncha folks, bless you!

    So, today is our first, much overdue, rest day. Not that the weasel needed it...

    I reckon we are halfway through the ride. Last I checked we had nearly 1200 miles, which was days ago. A little more patience will see us through. Wishing everyone a great summer, with copious amounts of fat tire fun. Cheerz!

    ...now a couple days later, Steamboat Springs...and finally a motel! Are we breaking down or what?! Overdue chain replacement (all three) apparently smoked a sprocket or ring, so the guys at Orange Peel (a killer shop) so I'll be back there this AM wrapping up that issue. Had some oil leakage from the Rohloff, so changed the oil. We made it out of the barren, otherworldly Wyoming backcountry, and to Steamboat Lake SP, Colorado--if barely. So nice to see my old friend...it's been a couple of years since I rode the CO Trail and I'll be great to ride in some of the same areas in a few days.

    Thirty days of riding, combined with cavalier attention to calorie input caught up to me. I was spiraling down for a couple of long days, eventually having difficulty eating. And we all know where this leads. Not riding! With a few miles of steep grade to push over to the lake, we actually (gasp!) flagged a ride from some very nice people in a car and truck who were more than happy to deposit us near the lake. It was pretty awesome to have a wilderness first responder and RN hop outa their cars and assess my situation. Thank you Travis and Angel Nurse! Cool buncha folks, bless you!

    So, today is our first, much overdue, rest day. Not that the weasel needed it...

    I reckon we are halfway through the ride. Last I checked we had nearly 1200 miles, which was days ago. A little more patience will see us through. Wishing everyone a great summer, with copious amounts of fat tire fun. Cheerz!

    ...now a couple days later, Steamboat Springs...and finally a motel! Are we breaking down or what?! Overdue chain replacement (all three) apparently smoked a sprocket or ring, so the guys at Orange Peel (a killer shop) will help me wrap up that issue this AM. Had some oil leakage from the Rohloff, so changed the oil. Will drop in some new brake pads today during wheel removal.

    This is a MTB town to be sure; Erikson and Moots in the house, and a few shops. It's a common Divider repair/refresh stop. I wish we had a few days to sample the local trail network, as it looks extensive and reputes to be ultra buff. Alas...Will drop in some new brake pads today during wheel removal.

    This is a MTB town to be sure; Erikson and Moots in the house, and a few shops. It's a common Divider repair/refresh stop. I wish we had a few days to sample the local trail network, as it looks extensive and reputes to be ultra buff. Alas...

  17. #67
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    It's like a little family out here on the ride. We've met numerous cool riders going either direction, creating their own adventures.

    A special shout out to:

    Jamie from London, who took a bad digger and is recovering and getting bike fixed in Jackson. Stay strong, brother! Banff isn't far off at your riding pace!

    Michelle from NY. Maybe the toughest lass I've ever met! She had to drop out of the race, and we are gleeful to see her in Steamboat, now touring the route. Nice tenacity, Vegetable Girl!

    Many other cool riders, going both directions and elsewhere. Tony, Gary, Dennis, Joe/crew...We ran into a singe biker (name eluding) whose rig outweighed ours by a good margin. Who'da thought!?

    The moto riders on the route are a great buncha folks. Several have stopped to chat or confirm we were okay. Several random people have offered up a place to stay...very kind gestures from people we don't even know who treat us like long lost family members.

    All these fine folk have been a sweet icing on this big ass cake. Power to you all!

    Mike and Moria

  18. #68
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    Apology for the half baked post. It disappears when I'm logged in, so unable to edit. Thanks for bearing with...

  19. #69
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    Holly typing skills Mike, I can actually hear you when reading your posts.Fascinating, good luck and keep enjoying your long adventurous journey

  20. #70
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    Vino: lol, thanks for the good thoughts, pal. Looking fwd to single bikes...a lot!

    Hartsel CO is about as small as a full-services town can be. But the spirit and hospitality here is huge. The Highlighter Saloon and Cafe was an apparition when we rolled in last night at dusk in a steady, blowing rain. Laura assured us that hanging out without buying anything is no problemo, just relax and dry out. Then she offered up the lot over yonder for us to tent in. Very many thanks to all here in Hartsel!

    We took a rest day at Dillon Reservoir and had some sweet friends drive over from Conifer and dine with us. Great to see you guys!!!

    More typical PM rain scheduled today, so we best move along if we are to make Salida without scuba gear. Psyched to get back to that cool town.

    So many nice people everywhere. Country living is where our hearts are. Cheers from out back...mind your fun meter and go like hell.

    Mike

  21. #71
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    I check everyday for a new episode! Love the updates.

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  22. #72
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    Ah, the weather...

    We have been dodging storms the last few days with dwindling success. I'm way up for a sloppy romp, but now we are looking at a week of storms a beyond the usual periodic tree-duck.

    The main issue is road condition. One never knows how much Dreaded Muck will need to be negotiated. This lovely substance can stop your bike cold in two tire rotations--pushing, not riding. Forget riding, you can barely walk through it.

    We left Hartsel at our usual crack-o-noon pace and met the day's storm at 8500' or so. We decided to wait it out, which turned into a 5-hour sit while we awaited the next 27 miles to Salida. The Muck was lurking. Soon enough the D-horse was overwhelmed, despite it's internally geared hub. Not enough water for a decent bivy, or a decent bike wash. Amazingly, only about 25 yards of the worst, but the sticking cycle was recurring enough to send us walking for some miles uphill. At the crest I was able to clear the drive enough to get function.

    We rolled into Salida like 2am, flopped next to the river, and vowed to revise our strategy during the upcoming storm days. Sadly we will be missing some prime CO riding as we detour some of the forest roads on paved roads, but such it is. We have had some great days on pavement on this ride, and are looking at more with no complaints.

    Cheers from the Arkansas River drainage, Heart of the Rockies RV Park and Campground. Happy riding!

  23. #73
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    Thanks for the enthusiasm, blueMTB!


    Idunno about y'all, but my stoke for pretty much everything is punctuated by music. It plays all day in my head, and sometimes from my phone. Some of the nuggets that have brightened my trails have been:

    Robin Hitchcock/Ride
    ACDC/Ride On
    CCR/Ramble Tamble
    Son Volt/May the Wind Take Your Troubles Away
    Dirty Heads/I Got No Time (some filthy lyrics)
    Black Label Society/Blessed Hellride
    Bob Mould/Black Sheets of Rain
    Beat Farmers/Big Ugly Wheels (RIP Country Dick Montana)
    Ozark Mtn Daredevils/Colorado Song
    Bill Nelson/When the Weather Changes Everything Changes with the Weather

    So many others... sorry for no YouTube embeds!

  24. #74
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    Howdy from El Rito NM!

    We just finished a sizable section of tough riding into NM. High, hilly and poor roads and surfaces. Also, virtually no people : )

    New Mexico is a diverse and beautiful state. I did some Divide riding here a couple of years ago, but missed out on the higher mountains as there are in the north of the state. I have to state: Once we crossed into NM, the accumulations of trash along the roadways, both dirt and paved, is absolutely shameful. It's apparent there is an acceptance of this condition; people toss trash, people do. Nothing to clean it up. Business owners along the road just let it accumulate. Like nothing I've seen in 2k miles of US riding on this trip. I'll be embarrassed for everyone here, since nobody seems to give a **** about living in filth.

    Major thumbs up to Joe and Sylvia at the CaŮon Plaza snack stand!

    Cheers til Cuba...

  25. #75
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    Three scampering baby bobcats (bobkittens?) is about the cutest thing in the universe. I guess we just missed Mom crossing the road ahead of us, but the little ones knew what to do.

    The run across Povadera Ridge to Cuba was a tough one, (with crazy jeep road forcing moto to portage), but we have been doing well with nutrition so have been hanging in there. We covered 150 miles of mostly road riding (on the Chaco alternate) in the last two days, making it to Grants. We must've been feeling good, because we flat forgot most of our water after a roadside break 50 miles from done. Oopsie.

    Planning a rest day tomorrow, making our day-off total 3.5. We should be able to finish up with a good surge. The idea of finishing is a bit surreal presently, as living on the bike simply seems like our existence at this point. It is...

    Genuine thanks to the uncountable numbers of courteous drivers everywhere. Maybe my memory is wavering, but it seems like awareness and courtesy is in good health overall. Thumbs up, drivers!

    Happy trails!

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