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  1. #1
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    Winter tire choice

    I'm looking to get some new tires this Christmas for the wet months, but have been spending hours looking at threads for any help. I have a few ideas, but I thought it appropriate to ask those that ride the same dirt as I. My trails consist mostly of MAC forest here in Corvallis, but also include the HHT and Gales Creek loop at Brown's camp.

    They would be mounted to the wide profile of my rhino lites. My Pana Fire XCs are a little too "unbeefy." My new XC ride is a Rigid Inbred SS, so I would prefer a high volume, 2.35 or 2.4 front tire, and maybe a 2.2 or 2.1 in the rear. There is the possibility I would also put them on my Freeride bike (MC Rumble) instead of the DMR Moto Diggers that are on there now (decent, but not great for use in the wet) when I take it out.

    I was thinking maybe putting a Maxxis High Roller 2.35 on the front, and a Maxxis Advantage 2.1 on the rear. I like how the Advantage sounds, but I am not hearing such good things about the sidewalls, especially for a rear??? Also, I'm considering a pair of Kenda Nevegal DTCs, 2.35 in front, and 2.1 in the rear.

    Any advice?

  2. #2
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    The dirt I'm familiar with is a good bit north or east of Corvallis, but I use 2.1 Fires as three season tires and have found it generally works best to switch to semislicks for winter riding. Even wide spaced knobbies pack up on me in the wet and semislicks usually do better for me on ice or packed snow (not that Corvallis gets too much of that) but so far of half-dozen knobbies I've tried I've gotten easily the best results with Panaracer's square block tread. IIRC Shiggy likes the 2.35 Rampage as an all round tire, which would meet your front criteria and he's close to your neck of the woods. You might consider the 2.1 Trailraker as wet condition rear.

    I've been eyeing the 2.25 Cinder as beefier alternative to my Fires, though both the Cinder and the 2.4 Fire FR probably don't clean well enough for regular mud riding.

  3. #3
    meatier showers
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    My fav 26" mud tires.

    Front:
    Panaracer Fire FR 2.4"


    Rear:
    Schwalbe Black Shark Mud 2.2".


    FWIW I live in Creswell, Oregon and have been riding off-road year round since 1985. I agree the Panaracer Fire XC tires make lousy mud tires, although given their classic rectangle-block knobby design this fact still confounds me. The look like they should work better than they do. Regardless, and in spite of its design similarities to the Fire XC, the Fire FR 2.4" has worked really well in sloppy, slippery conditions. I'd run these tires front & rear except that I can't fit a 2.4" tire in my frame. No problem, Schwalbe BSM 2.2" to the rescue. It's the cat's PJs if clearance is an issue.

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  4. #4
    mudnthebloodnthebeer
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    I like the Nevegals in wet conditions where clearing mud from the tread isn't a big issue. When it is an issue I'm pretty much sold on the Conti Survival Pro, although I'm pretty sure they're not being produced any longer. I'm also a believer in narrow tires front and rear this time of year, preferring to penetrate the muck in search of traction rather than attempt to stay on top of it.
    Also, the streets are full of horizontal dropouts...

    BSNYC

  5. #5
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    I've not had any luck with Nevegals during winter. I love them in dry stuff, but not OR mud/muck.

    For full on OR winters (read: November to March, mostly) I run either a WTB Timberwolf 2.5 front and rear, Panaracer Fire FR 2.4 front/WTB Timberwolf 2.5 rear, or Kenda BlueGroove 2.5 front/WTB Timberwolf 2.5 rear. Those are for my big squish. My rigid sees pretty much the same on front but only a 2.3 Timberwolf in the rear or maybe a Blackshark Mud in 2.25. I'd like a BSM in 2.5, but...

    Brock...

    PS: Quafimodo, I think they still make them (Survival Pro) and I know we have a few 2.1's and 2.3's at the shop; I have one hanging in my garage FWIW.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by twest820
    I've been eyeing the 2.25 Cinder as beefier alternative to my Fires, though both the Cinder and the 2.4 Fire FR probably don't clean well enough for regular mud riding.
    Hmmm... I looked into the 2.25 cinder. According to the reviews on mbtr, the only problem people have with them are having them wash out in the front. It sounds like they perform well accelerating and braking, and in dry and wet conditions. I think I may try one of these in the rear. Still looking over candidates for a front.

  7. #7
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    I'll second the WTB Twolf's as a great slop tire, works great for surfing pumice and some snow and thick mid-summer dust too. The 2.5's are huge though, more like 2.7's, so might not have enough rear clearence. I like the Twolf 2.5 front, 2.3 rear for loose, sloppy conditions. Only thing bad about these tires is that they are slow as tractors in good conditions and on the flats and sidewall lugs flex/squirm with hard cornering and they could kill you on rock and one of my favorite winter riding spots has a lot of rock on it, so I am not running them right now, but if I was just riding winter time slop sk, then those would be one of my first picks. Guys at LBS on the westside (wetside) like the Maxxis Advantage 2.4 front/rear for all conditions including winter/spring slop as well..

  8. #8
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    I like the Advantages too, but they seem like they would be heavy. I does seem that they would roll well in all conditions though. I also don't know if they would stand up under me. I weigh 220-230 with gear ( I know, I'm a fattun ), and i have read a lot about these tires having sidewall problems

  9. #9
    mudnthebloodnthebeer
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    Quote Originally Posted by ImaKlyde

    PS: Quafimodo, I think they still make them (Survival Pro) and I know we have a few 2.1's and 2.3's at the shop; I have one hanging in my garage FWIW.
    I haven't seen them online in a while which makes me glad that I too have an unused set on the tire shelf in addition to the pair on my bike. I agree that the Neve's leave a lot to be desired in gooey conditions, but I really like them on wet rocky stuff that drains well. The grip is phenomenal as long as the tread doesn't get clogged.
    Also, the streets are full of horizontal dropouts...

    BSNYC

  10. #10
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    I'm going to try a 2.35 Neve Stick-E in front, ans 2.1 Neve DTC in the back. If it doesn't work, I'll craigslist them or whatever. Future options I may try are Panas Cinder (in the rear) and Conti Vertical Pros (rear too), with High Rollers or Wierwolfs up front if I end up not liking the combination.

    Thanks for the advice,
    Kal

  11. #11
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    WTB Motoraptors

    I have had luck with WTB Motoraptors. I run 2.14 front and rear and they seem to penetrate the muck and grab. They also seem to work really well on the tacky stuff. They are ligth weight to boot. Slow though during the dry times.

    That said, I would like to try the mud specific tires. Just a bit expensive for me.
    I ride at ludicrous speed

  12. #12
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    Cinders

    I live in the coast range and I use Cinders as my main tires but they do pack up in muddy conditions, so I switch out during the rainy months. I run a cheapo Bontrager Big Kuhuna out back (good open tread pattern with big digging knobs), and a Bontrager Jones XC up front (good directional tread keeps the front running where I point it through muddy holes and switchbacks). Neither are mud specific tires but they seem to work in the coastal mud, both are 2.1s. I'm a mizer so cheap is my first criteria for seasonal tires.

    Happy Trails
    Jolly



    Quote Originally Posted by twest820
    The dirt I'm familiar with is a good bit north or east of Corvallis, but I use 2.1 Fires as three season tires and have found it generally works best to switch to semislicks for winter riding. Even wide spaced knobbies pack up on me in the wet and semislicks usually do better for me on ice or packed snow (not that Corvallis gets too much of that) but so far of half-dozen knobbies I've tried I've gotten easily the best results with Panaracer's square block tread. IIRC Shiggy likes the 2.35 Rampage as an all round tire, which would meet your front criteria and he's close to your neck of the woods. You might consider the 2.1 Trailraker as wet condition rear.

    I've been eyeing the 2.25 Cinder as beefier alternative to my Fires, though both the Cinder and the 2.4 Fire FR probably don't clean well enough for regular mud riding.

  13. #13
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    I picked up an IRC MudMad 2.2 at Full Cycles, works great on the front in Mac forest, handles well and won't pack up. I don't know if they still carry them, they were selling them uber cheap. I run a skinny Specialized Storm Control in the rear, but it's out of production and this will probably be it's last season, so I guess I'll be shopping before too long.

  14. #14
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    Cinders

    Quote Originally Posted by kalNhobbs
    Hmmm... I looked into the 2.25 cinder. According to the reviews on mbtr, the only problem people have with them are having them wash out in the front. It sounds like they perform well accelerating and braking, and in dry and wet conditions. I think I may try one of these in the rear. Still looking over candidates for a front.
    Cinders do have a tendancy to wash out, especially in wet muddy corners, or it could be just bad riding technique.

    Jolly

  15. #15
    Est. 1971
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    I'd have to second the Fire FR 2.4. I rode them at ACM3 which was a bog fest and was impressed with how they worked (despite the rear being a little worn).
    -Tim B
    Larry of the Swiss Alps

  16. #16
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    Too Many Tires

    So outta curriosity just how often are you guys changing tires? Every ride? Seasonal? Does Whypass have it's own special tires?
    Happy Trails
    Jolly

  17. #17
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    I used to ride the Frire FRs ll year round, then I found the Panaracer Ramages and run them on most of my all mountian type rides (big volume but better rolling than the FR), but I plan to run the Fire FRs when I do any freeriding at Black Rock or Post Canyon, and really muddy riding.

    Next year I'm thinking it'll be a 70/30 split between the Rampages and FRs.
    -Tim B
    Larry of the Swiss Alps

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by jollybeggar
    So outta curriosity just how often are you guys changing tires? Every ride? Seasonal? Does Whypass have it's own special tires?

    Winter Whypass riding demands a true mud tire. Rudufus's choice of IRC Mud Mad and Specialized Storm Control was the old favorite combo for Whypass, but both are hard to get now, and there's alot more options for mudders nowadays. I love the Schwalbe Black Shark Mud, in all widths, and still use a Storm Control on the rear, but would use other tires if I didn't have a few Storm Controls still to burn through.

    Real mud tires don't work well in rocky and rooty areas as the knobs are too firm to grip. They bounce off stuff, so you need to adjust your riding style to handle roots and rocks, but since they dig in well, and don't pack up with mud (due to wide spacing between knobs) they really help in the thick, clippery mud.

    My Whypass bike is not going to be used outside of Whypass, so I can get away with heavy duty mud tires, but I would not use those tires for all around winter riding, considering the drier days on trails in Oakridge don't require a ture mud tire. They are more of a liabilty than a help on trails like middle Fork, MRT, or other decent weather winter rides.
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  19. #19
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    29er Mud

    Ok since I plan on bringing my MarySS to ACM this year (can hardly wait), any 29er tire recommendations for the special mud Whypass gives birth to in the rainy season.

    Jolly
    Happy Trails
    Jolly

  20. #20
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    Kenda Klaw's are my favortie 29er wet condition tire.
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  21. #21
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    Panaracer's TrailRakers 1.9 (front and rear) hooked up well last night (whypass) on the fully rigid 26er.

    Caz's $.02

    P.S. of course they sucked on the wet roots.
    I am a Mountain Biker therefore I am late

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by cazloco
    Panaracer's TrailRakers 1.9 (front and rear) hooked up well last night (whypass) on the fully rigid 26er.
    Agree with that, except I still had on my Ritchey 2.35 (forget the model) tire in the front. It works great in everything except the full-on mud that we have at Whypass. I passed a newby on a climb who was complaining about traction. Those skinny TrailRakers really get to the bottom of things.

    Quote Originally Posted by cazloco
    P.S. of course they sucked on the wet roots.
    Is that why I went flying off the trail at one point last night?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalNhobbs
    I'm going to try a 2.35 Neve Stick-E in front, ans 2.1 Neve DTC in the back. If it doesn't work, I'll craigslist them or whatever. Future options I may try are Panas Cinder (in the rear) and Conti Vertical Pros (rear too), with High Rollers or Wierwolfs up front if I end up not liking the combination.

    Thanks for the advice,
    Kal
    I would not recommend any of those tires. If you want a "bigger" tire the Maxxis Swampthing or WTB Timberwolf are probably your best bets.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mudflaps
    Agree with that, except I still had on my Ritchey 2.35 (forget the model) tire in the front. It works great in everything except the full-on mud that we have at Whypass. I passed a newby on a climb who was complaining about traction. Those skinny TrailRakers really get to the bottom of things.


    Is that why I went flying off the trail at one point last night?
    It is also technique and experience, 'flaps. I was doing fine on the climbs with the wide-ish, low knob tires I had on last night.

    Then I hit a diagonal root on Fungirl and flew off the trail.
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy
    I would not recommend any of those tires. If you want a "bigger" tire the Maxxis Swampthing or WTB Timberwolf are probably your best bets.
    I am interested in why you would not recommend any of them? Most people seem to like them for the rocky and rooty coastal range trails, in either wet or dry conditions.

    I thought about just a pure mud tire or just a big knobby, but I want to have a versatile tire that can be used in other seasons as well. Plus, I like that fact that my bike is sub 25lbs now (versus my 35 lb freeride hardtail), and would like to keep it that way.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalNhobbs
    I am interested in why you would not recommend any of them? Most people seem to like them for the rocky and rooty coastal range trails, in either wet or dry conditions.

    I thought about just a pure mud tire or just a big knobby, but I want to have a versatile tire that can be used in other seasons as well. Plus, I like that fact that my bike is sub 25lbs now (versus my 35 lb freeride hardtail), and would like to keep it that way.
    They lack traction and/or pack up easily in the muck. Trying to use one tire year-round is always going to be a compromise. The best of these is (was) the Hutchinson Spider.
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  27. #27
    Making fat cool since '71
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalNhobbs
    I am interested in why you would not recommend any of them? Most people seem to like them for the rocky and rooty coastal range trails, in either wet or dry conditions.

    I thought about just a pure mud tire or just a big knobby, but I want to have a versatile tire that can be used in other seasons as well. Plus, I like that fact that my bike is sub 25lbs now (versus my 35 lb freeride hardtail), and would like to keep it that way.
    Good *on* wet stuff doesn't mean good *in* mud. They both have small knobs and not very deep lugs. The HighRollers are even closer spaced lugs and shallower than the Neve's. Several sticky compound tires are better than average on wet rocks/roots and suck in muck. I'm sure Shigg will agree there isn't a "perfect" all-around tire out there yet. I don't believe in changing tires every ride or even every couple of months, but if I know I'm going to go someplace where a specific tire works better for me than what's on the bike(s) at the moment I'll change it. I have "dry-ish" set-ups and "mud-ish" set-ups and then very purpose built set-ups as well ("all" mud, think WhipeAss, or "all" rock, think west CO or east UT).

    Saving 3.4 (or whatever...) ounces on the weight of tires doesn't make a lot of sense to me on a 25 pound bike; it makes even less sense if it's being made knowing there is a loss of control/traction. The boys will tell you though, I'm not exactly "weight conscious" much.

    It's not "the best" but if you *have* to have the sticky compound and Neve-ish predictability on roots/rocks but want a bit (just a bit...) more mud clearing think on the BlueGrooves. I use them in the wet a lot (in front) and will only take them off once things truly wet/soaked (right about now...). Whatever though. I've rambled.

    Brock...

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    Are the wheels roundish? Ride it.

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  28. #28
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    Hmmm.. Those are good points. I am going to rethink this (again ) I really like the idea of a Pana cinder 2.25 in the rear, but the difficult thing is finding a front that is sticky enough, has a decent roll to it, and is high volume.

    I don't mean that I am being a weight weeny, I am just saying that I do not want to put a heavy low rolling DH tire on. That's what I have on my FR bike. I am willing to sacrifice a little in some areas as long as they work in most.

    I may look into blue grooves, but according to the site, they are ideal for dry hardpack (sorta opposite of now)

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalNhobbs
    Hmmm.. Those are good points. I am going to rethink this (again ) I really like the idea of a Pana cinder 2.25 in the rear, but the difficult thing is finding a front that is sticky enough, has a decent roll to it, and is high volume.

    I don't mean that I am being a weight weeny, I am just saying that I do not want to put a heavy low rolling DH tire on. That's what I have on my FR bike. I am willing to sacrifice a little in some areas as long as they work in most.

    I may look into blue grooves, but according to the site, they are ideal for dry hardpack (sorta opposite of now)
    The Kenda site also calls the BG knobs low profile and the Nevegal's as tall, while they measure the exact same height.

    Wet roots/rocks/logs are slick no matter what tire you are using. The trouble with many soft compound bike tires is the rubber gets slick when the temperatures drop below ~40. I will take a tire that gives better traction between the hard slick things and lets me set up for them.
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  30. #30
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    Jenson has closeouts on Conti Verts and Diesels (~$60 for both shipped). The raves are very good from what the threads are saying, and this appears to be a good deal. Putting a diesel up front with a Vert in the rear sounds like a very promising combination for wet, but not bog muddy, and loose trails, as well as for drier times. I think the Vert is a better option than the gravity, the tire that many use instead of the Vert in this combo, being that it will rid mud and be a better "wet" tire.

  31. #31
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    side note

    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy
    It is also technique and experience, 'flaps. I was doing fine on the climbs with the wide-ish, low knob tires I had on last night.

    Then I hit a diagonal root on Fungirl and flew off the trail.
    With all the people that have "gone down" on the "fungirl root", I'm suprised the "Sanitizer" hasn't removed it with his "Terra Ho" yet.


    Caz
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  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by cazloco
    With all the people that have "gone down" on the "fungirl root", I'm suprised the "Sanitizer" hasn't removed it with his "Terra Ho" yet.


    Caz
    Ho ho ho... I don't know what you're talking about.

    Where is that root, anyway?

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  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparticus
    Ho ho ho... I don't know what you're talking about.

    Where is that root, anyway?

    --S(anitizer)party
    Just before the Rock Around the Clock junction. Am I right, boys?

    Caz
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  34. #34
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    I don't speak tire, after riding for almost 20 years this thread crazy.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bobcanride
    I don't speak tire, after riding for almost 20 years this thread crazy.

    I'm with you Bob. If it has some knobs on it, and holds air, I'll ride it.
    MaxSteel

  36. #36
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    Right now on my 69'er, I have a Kenda Klaw 2.1 up front, and a Vertical Pro 2.3 in the back. I'll switch the back to a Timberwolf 2.5ish as soon as I go get it. I took it off to let the wife try it out and have yet to see it back Of course I put tires on, if I like them I keep them on the bike until they pretty much wear out, it doesn't matter where I'm riding.

    The Timeberwolf doesn't seem to clog with mud, works on roots, and have traction just about anywhere and anytime. It isn't super light though... I ran it front and rear when I had 26 both ends of the bike and really liked it.

    I use to think, keep them skinny, but the more I ride in the crap the more it doesn't seem to matter on the bike. Guys swear by there 1.8 such and such, but I have as much traction with the 2.3 or 2.5 tires, and way more cush and less flats...

    Some people change tires before every ride, aka Shiggy, some people ride what they brung. I road with a guy out at whypass once, he put the hurt on me, seemed to be flying on all the downhill's and uphill's, it was some serious mud that day as well. He was running semi-slicks, since then I realized, it's not about the tire (had to get the lance reference in there ) it's the rider...

    Get what's going to make you happy and keep you riding your bike all the time. That will be the best tire you could spend your $$ on
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  37. #37
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    I don't know if you guys took this into account but the three places he's talking about have soil that consists of mostly clay, in the winter those trails don't really get soft but rather get slick on the surface with not much depth to bite into. Tires that work in Mac forest don't work well in area's like Whypass where there's depth to the soil to bite into. Ive seen people have good luck in Mac with tires that have lots of smaller knobs to "grip" the surface spreading out the force over a larger area instead of trying to bite into it with big chunky knobs.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy
    Wet roots/rocks/logs are slick no matter what tire you are using.
    Only thing I can say: Maxxis Slow Reezay compound (40a)!!!! Unbelievable how much traction tires with this compound have on wet roots/rocks! Really bad they don't sell it in the US.
    Go and bug Maxxis. I tried to, but they told me there is no demand here. Is their office in CA or what?

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by cazloco
    Just before the Rock Around the Clock junction. Am I right, boys?

    Caz
    Nope. I was way higher than that.

    You keep your terrahoe away from those roots, Sparty!
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  40. #40
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brandon
    I don't know if you guys took this into account but the three places he's talking about have soil that consists of mostly clay, in the winter those trails don't really get soft but rather get slick on the surface with not much depth to bite into. Tires that work in Mac forest don't work well in area's like Whypass where there's depth to the soil to bite into. Ive seen people have good luck in Mac with tires that have lots of smaller knobs to "grip" the surface spreading out the force over a larger area instead of trying to bite into it with big chunky knobs.
    I like tires with small, widely spaced, chunky knobs. There is hardpack, slick clay at WhyPass, too.
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  41. #41
    love my Simonds 519
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    Also why I mentioned I use semislicks in the winter. Haven't ridden much around the Eugene/Corvallis area but Portland's quite prone to clay and I found knobbies meant riding on clay 29ers---an inch and a half of clay wrapped around a 26er. With the fork arch and stay braces only things keeping the clay from getting thicker. No grip, no control, no fun to ride. However, semislicks stayed clean and gripped well enough to ride without much fuss. I've had good results with them on ice as well, which is as close as I've come to hardpack, slick clay but my ice riding may be more horizontal than Whypass clay.

    Curiously, the best semislicks I've used yet are the Chen Shin C1271 and C1272, which retail for the princely sum of $15; just enough tread in the center to grip decently by semislick standards, roll fast, and have big solid side knobs so they grab in the corners. Maybe a little too grabby as they hook up pretty quick on a lean and might be knobby enough for mud to stick. Based on tread and what I've ridden seems like they should beat Bontrager, Conti, Hutchinson, Maxxis, Panaracer, Ritchey, and Schwalbe's offerings for most riding. Probably beat Kenda as well, though I'd have to try a Kwicker to be sure. (IRC, Tioga, and WTB didn't make 26er semislicks last I checked.) They do wear kinda fast but they're cheap enough even I won't complain about it.

  42. #42
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    I'm with you two

    Quote Originally Posted by MaxSteel
    I'm with you Bob. If it has some knobs on it, and holds air, I'll ride it.
    I can be a shiggy -- I mean a sh*tty -- rider regardless of the conditions.

    As far as I'm concerned, being a tire snob is like being a wine snob. It's so incredibly subjective, and you can say anything you want about any tire (wine), but the bottom line is, if you like it, drink it!! (I mean, ride it!!!!)

    'tis a poor craftsman who blames his tools....or put another way, it's not the bike, it's the rider.

  43. #43
    love my Simonds 519
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    Quote Originally Posted by Albee
    'tis a poor craftsman who blames his tools....or put another way, it's not the bike, it's the rider.
    And it's a foolish craftsman who uses the wrong tool for the job or doesn't maintain tools properly. While I rode nothing but semislicks for years, I have to say some judicious switching between tires makes riding enough more fun it's worth a little hassle.

  44. #44
    Making fat cool since '71
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    If there is one thing Albee does...

    Quote Originally Posted by twest820
    And it's a foolish craftsman who uses the wrong tool for the job or doesn't maintain tools properly. While I rode nothing but semislicks for years, I have to say some judicious switching between tires makes riding enough more fun it's worth a little hassle.
    ...it's maintain his tool.

    Brock...
    Are the wheels roundish? Ride it.

    Disciples Of Dirt, come ride with us.

  45. #45
    meatier showers
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    Quote Originally Posted by ImaKlyde
    ...it's maintain his tool.

    Brock...
    All polished up like a Snap-on.

    --Sparty

    P.S. Back to topic: Although I'm willing to change tires if conditions really warrant doing so, I'd rather not change them if I don't have to. So I tend to put on really aggressive mud tires in the winter (and then run them all winter long) vs. "multi-conditions" tires in the dry season (and then run them all dry-season long).

    Also, I'm less concerned with tire weight in the winter. Not just because my tires pack up with mud -- they really don't pack up all that much. But in the winter I wear more clothing, trail conditions often make me feel like I'm slogging through wet cement anyway, rain has a slowing effect, cycling speeds tend to be slower anyway, etc. Besides, I look at the added weight of heavier winter wheels as "training weight." When the riding season returns, my bike's lighter "on-season" wheels will make it feel like new again.

    To each his own.
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  46. #46
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    I've been thinking of trying out some of the non UST 26x2.1 Panaracer Trailrakers this winter but can't find them locally (Roseburg). I did some checking on-line and they seem to readily avaiable from the UK. I couldn't find any on-line US retailers that seem to stock them. Anyone have a idea where to find in the good ol' US of A?

  47. #47
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by twest820
    Also why I mentioned I use semislicks in the winter. Haven't ridden much around the Eugene/Corvallis area but Portland's quite prone to clay and I found knobbies meant riding on clay 29ers---an inch and a half of clay wrapped around a 26er. With the fork arch and stay braces only things keeping the clay from getting thicker. No grip, no control, no fun to ride. However, semislicks stayed clean and gripped well enough to ride without much fuss. I've had good results with them on ice as well, which is as close as I've come to hardpack, slick clay but my ice riding may be more horizontal than Whypass clay.

    Curiously, the best semislicks I've used yet are the Chen Shin C1271 and C1272, which retail for the princely sum of $15; just enough tread in the center to grip decently by semislick standards, roll fast, and have big solid side knobs so they grab in the corners. Maybe a little too grabby as they hook up pretty quick on a lean and might be knobby enough for mud to stick. Based on tread and what I've ridden seems like they should beat Bontrager, Conti, Hutchinson, Maxxis, Panaracer, Ritchey, and Schwalbe's offerings for most riding. Probably beat Kenda as well, though I'd have to try a Kwicker to be sure. (IRC, Tioga, and WTB didn't make 26er semislicks last I checked.) They do wear kinda fast but they're cheap enough even I won't complain about it.
    Semi-slicks are not what I meant. More like Schwalbe Black Shark Mud, Maxxis Medusa, or--to a lesser degree--Bontrager Mud X.

    Speaking of Mud X, The Arrow Racing Mud X Lite 2.3 is a pretty good mudder.
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  48. #48
    mudnthebloodnthebeer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparticus

    Besides, I look at the added weight of heavier winter wheels as "training weight." When the riding season returns, my bike's lighter "on-season" wheels will make it feel like new again.

    That discussion wouldn't be complete without a mention of the benefits of consuming the multitude of high-calorie beers available this time of year. That Jubel jiggle is money in the bank when things dry out around here.
    Also, the streets are full of horizontal dropouts...

    BSNYC

  49. #49
    I got nothin'
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    Quote Originally Posted by ormtbr
    I've been thinking of trying out some of the non UST 26x2.1 Panaracer Trailrakers this winter but can't find them locally (Roseburg). I did some checking on-line and they seem to readily avaiable from the UK. I couldn't find any on-line US retailers that seem to stock them. Anyone have a idea where to find in the good ol' US of A?
    I have run into the same thing. It seems like just about any good mud tire has to ordered from the UK. I guess manufacturers and distributors don't think the US market will support mud specific tires. You might talk your LBS into a special order.

    I see a few online retailers will carry the large DH versions of some tires discussed here.
    I ride at ludicrous speed

  50. #50
    meatier showers
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    Quote Originally Posted by quaffimodo
    That discussion wouldn't be complete without a mention of the benefits of consuming the multitude of high-calorie beers available this time of year. That Jubel jiggle is money in the bank when things dry out around here.
    I'll drink to that.

    --Sparty
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    Quote Originally Posted by riverrat
    Jaybo... quit *****ing and move to Texas

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