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  1. #1
    Metalheadbikerider
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    Anyone in PDX area own an SB-66?

    I am looking to check one out in medium. I just want to toss a leg over to check the size. I am right in between a medium and large. I would be happy bring some beer for your time, maybe 5 minutes. PM me.
    Thanks.
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  2. #2
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by free-agent View Post
    I am looking to check one out in medium. I just want to toss a leg over to check the size. I am right in between a medium and large. I would be happy bring some beer for your time, maybe 5 minutes. PM me.
    Thanks.
    Bummer, I just sold mine Brian. Had my medium SB66 in box forever since being on the Rune V2 the past year, but I finally sold it! Curious to what you plan on using the bike for, to replace your Fuel or Coil-air or both? Bike hits somewhere between the two and good for trail/AM stuff (Sandy), but gets overwhelmed beyond that (Thrillium, Whistler, etc). Make sure you don't get an older one (<13' model) as I busted two in same spot (drive side chainstay weld nearest to BB) and one sheared upper dogbone link that they have thickened since. Carbon may be stronger than the Alu version, but seen a totally cracked in half rear end from Larch Enduro due to casing a hit on Thrillium more than likely. Fun bike besides that, but be prepared to replace bearings not before long and there are lots of different bearings on that frame in rare sizes that you can only get from Yeti and they wan't to charge mucho dinero for frame pivot rebuild kit, like $400. I think the Switch-link puts a lot of stress on the moving parts. If you get one, make sure you use a clutch rear der, cause that chain gets flunged around a lot without one when Switch-link changes from CCW to CW rotation in middle of stroke. Regardless, still a fun bike to ride that was pretty maintenance intensive to keep it going for me.
    Ride On!

  3. #3
    Metalheadbikerider
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    Thanks JG.

    I sold the Coil Air a while ago and bought a Kona Operator, so I'm all set for the DH trails. It would be my main kickass trail bike (Sandy, Post, Syncline, etc) in place of the Fuel.
    I'm looking at a used 2013 Carbon. I rode a Large today and it felt good, but am thinking a medium may be even better. I am exactly in between the two sizes, which is why want to try a medium. I have a short torso and the long top tube has me thinking about the medium instead.
    I am just test riding some different rigs at this point, and this one has my attention.
    I read the reviews about the bearings, which is a concern. But isn't as much of a concern for me as it may be for others since I ride different bikes for different trails.
    Thanks again, man. I always appreciate your input. Any other thoughts appreciated. I am looking at some other rigs, but the sizes for those are more obvious than the Yeti. I ride a 19" in pretty much everything else.
    Support mtb'ing in the Portland area, join NWTA with your dollars, hands, and/or voice. nw-trail.org

  4. #4
    FKA Malibu412
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    Did you say $400 for the pivot rebuild kit??!! Does a new rear triangle come with it? I'll keep my FSR/Horst design with $70-$80 worth of bearings, thank you.
    "I love the bike. It's my meditation. I think I'm bike-sexual." -Robin Williams

  5. #5
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by free-agent View Post
    I sold the Coil Air a while ago and bought a Kona Operator, so I'm all set for the DH trails. It would be my main kickass trail bike (Sandy, Post, Syncline, etc) in place of the Fuel.
    I'm looking at a used 2013 Carbon. I rode a Large today and it felt good, but am thinking a medium may be even better. I am exactly in between the two sizes, which is why want to try a medium. I have a short torso and the long top tube has me thinking about the medium instead.
    I am just test riding some different rigs at this point, and this one has my attention.
    I read the reviews about the bearings, which is a concern. But isn't as much of a concern for me as it may be for others since I ride different bikes for different trails.
    Thanks again, man. I always appreciate your input. Any other thoughts appreciated. I am looking at some other rigs, but the sizes for those are more obvious than the Yeti. I ride a 19" in pretty much everything else.
    No probs. I haven't ridden the SB66c, so can't comment on durability and performance at all, but have always been curious if I would get more life out of a carbon mtb vs alu myself. Pretty impressed when I rode an Ibis HD with great stiffness from fore to aft of bike that I never really felt on alu bikes prior. I think the SB66c is probably the best way to go, just avoid big drops, jumps on it and should be fine. As far as sizing goes, I would go medium due to the really long top tube on that bike (even longer than most larges out there). I ran mine with 50 stem and saddle all the way forward to max position and still had plenty of extra reach at 5'10" with 34" actual inseam (long'ish legs). The 18" seat tube shouldn't be an issue for you, especially if using dropper post for extra clearance. I always rode 18-19" seat tube bikes myself and currently on a 16.9" for all of my riding, but can't run a standard post due to frame interference and beyond max insertion on the climbs, so dropper is manditory for better or for worse. Tomorrow is going to be a 7k' day for me for Vet's day if I can make it with one loop on WhoopDee, Dog River out/back, and Sandy for two loops to hit every trail there on the return home. Gotta make the drive count!
    Ride On!

  6. #6
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glide the Clyde View Post
    Did you say $400 for the pivot rebuild kit??!! Does a new rear triangle come with it? I'll keep my FSR/Horst design with $70-$80 worth of bearings, thank you.
    Yep, Yeti is hosing their customers with that. All these bearing bikes and quick wear, make me want to run back to Turner bushing'ed bikes that last forever with just a squirt of grease here and there. Too bad the DW-RFX never came to life, would of been all over that for ease of maintenance and cheap upkeep.
    Ride On!

  7. #7
    FKA Malibu412
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    Yep, bushings with grease fittings really are superior in rear pivot design as cartridge bearings do not keep out moisture and dirt, and because they never actually get a full rotation in that application.
    "I love the bike. It's my meditation. I think I'm bike-sexual." -Robin Williams

  8. #8
    Metalheadbikerider
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    Thanks again. I see the entire bearing replacement kit priced at $120. Not too bad. Now I'm more concerned about buying such a high end bike used and not getting a warranty with it. Dilemmas!
    Support mtb'ing in the Portland area, join NWTA with your dollars, hands, and/or voice. nw-trail.org

  9. #9
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by free-agent View Post
    Thanks again. I see the entire bearing replacement kit priced at $120. Not too bad. Now I'm more concerned about buying such a high end bike used and not getting a warranty with it. Dilemmas!
    Much better, they must lowered their price on that, used to be like $399 for the kit and I would have to beg the LBS to part one out for me instead of buying the whole kit from Yeti. $120 is doable.

    I wouldn't ride a bike without a warranty unless I was getting a total steal on it and bike looked structurally sound.
    Ride On!

  10. #10
    Singletrack Addict
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    check Chain Reaction Cycles online or competitive cyclist... I got the bearing rebuild kit for my ASR7 from them for less than what Yeti was charging.

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