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  1. #526
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    Quote Originally Posted by FastBanana View Post
    Try adjusting the clutch, it may be loose.

    Sent from my LG-LS995 using Tapatalk
    Thanks, but don't think it is the clutch. I've tightened it down a bit. Checked chain length too. It happened on my Ibis Ripley. I thought on a HT it would be better since there is no chain stay growth from the suspension. I may but a top guide like an XCX on it. It only happens on the really rough stuff.

  2. #527
    The Fastest of Bananas
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    Re: On-One Lurcher...

    Quote Originally Posted by mcgong View Post
    Thanks, but don't think it is the clutch. I've tightened it down a bit. Checked chain length too. It happened on my Ibis Ripley. I thought on a HT it would be better since there is no chain stay growth from the suspension. I may but a top guide like an XCX on it. It only happens on the really rough stuff.
    On a HT, the chain gets bounced more.

    Sent from my LG-LS995 using Tapatalk

  3. #528
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    Quote Originally Posted by FastBanana View Post
    On a HT, the chain gets bounced more.

    Sent from my LG-LS995 using Tapatalk
    Yeah I noticed that. Heard it hitting my spokes more and noticed more slap. I may need to replace my chain ring also.

    Still getting used to the HT. On my ride yesterday, I felt like the back chain stays were going to break. Really shows how much I took my rear sus for granted. Loving the HT though. Makes riding more challenging.

  4. #529
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    Almost forgot to show my Lurcher around here. I gained some useful inspiration from this thread here before I built this one. Since I have the Lurch, my other bikes (a C456 and a ssp Inbred) hardly get any kilometers.



    It is bulit up with Mavic Crossride wheels which i got as a total bargain from a friend, a 100mm non-tapeperd Reba RLT QR15 and a 1x10 SLX drivetrain with a 32t RaceFace n/w chainring. Brakes are Avid Elixir CR with carbon lever blades and 180/160mm Formula discs.
    Most brainpower went into the choice of the fork and the headset. I wanted 100mm of travel but didnīt want slacken the headangle to much, so I went for a non-tapered steerer and a zero stack lower headset cup. In addition I wanted a qr15 fork so getting a second-hand fork with correct specs was the "hardest part".

  5. #530
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    Need help to remove a CK headset from my Lurcher. Have any of you removed one and how did you do it. There is a lip inside the head tube that blocks the top of the CK bottom headset cup, so I can't use a punch to push it out.

    in the photo below, the silver lip hangs out over the top of the CK cup, so when you look down from the top of the head tube, it covers the top of the CK headset cup.

    On-One Lurcher...-photo-1.jpg

  6. #531
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    Hi, is EC 49/40 the correct lower cup size to run taper fork? thanks.
    beaver hunt

  7. #532
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    Yes

    Quote Originally Posted by snowdrifter View Post
    Hi, is EC 49/40 the correct lower cup size to run taper fork? thanks.

  8. #533
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    one more, sram gxp cranks, what bb? thanks.

    guessing this one works.

    SRAM GXP BB92 Bottom Bracket | Competitive Cyclist
    beaver hunt

  9. #534
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    Yes that will work. It comes with the spacer that you'll need to fit the Lurcher.

    Quote Originally Posted by snowdrifter View Post
    one more, sram gxp cranks, what bb? thanks.

    guessing this one works.

    SRAM GXP BB92 Bottom Bracket | Competitive Cyclist

  10. #535
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    Does a Knard/Dually or Rabbithole combo fit in the On-One monocoque fork?

    Thanks!

  11. #536
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcgong View Post
    Need help to remove a CK headset from my Lurcher. Have any of you removed one and how did you do it. There is a lip inside the head tube that blocks the top of the CK bottom headset cup, so I can't use a punch to push it out.

    in the photo below, the silver lip hangs out over the top of the CK cup, so when you look down from the top of the head tube, it covers the top of the CK headset cup.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    sorry to say but I think that headset is in there forever unless you are willing to destroy it while removing. I ran into a similar issue while trying to remove a cane creek headset. I had slightly more room between the headset and the lip(from looking at your picture) so I was able to stick a screw driver in there. But pretty much ruined the headset cup.

    You might be able to do it if you can find some type of gear puller with a slide hammer but I think the chances of ruining the headset cup is pretty high.

  12. #537
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    回覆: On-One Lurcher...

    Quote Originally Posted by mcgong View Post
    Here is my Lurcher that I just built.
    Size Large (19.5) Black

    22.6lbs with a dropper post.

    Attachment 900675
    very nice
    can you share the details?

  13. #538
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    Quote Originally Posted by bbbbking View Post
    very nice
    can you share the details?
    Details:

    2014 RS SID XX 100mm
    I9 Torch Wheels
    Spec Command Post
    Syntace Bar and Stem
    XTR Rear D
    XT Cassette
    XT Brakes
    Noir Cranks
    Spec Henge Carbon

    I actually don't have this built up anymore. I got a good deal on a Highball Carbon. Everything swapped over to that, but I changed out some stuff like a -17d 3T stem, Hope Chainring, and Shimano Turnix Carbon Saddle.

  14. #539
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    No Props

    Funny how the Lurcher continues to fly under the radar. This bike simply delivers.....love the thing
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails On-One Lurcher...-lurcher.jpg  


  15. #540
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    Is there anyone out there running a size large (19.5) with a 100mm travel work who can post the standover height at the middle of the top tube?

    The possibility of turning myself into a soprano during sudden dismount on a climb is my main hesitation with picking up this frame.

  16. #541
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    Re: On-One Lurcher...

    Quote Originally Posted by huggyt View Post
    Is there anyone out there running a size large (19.5) with a 100mm travel work who can post the standover height at the middle of the top tube?

    The possibility of turning myself into a soprano during sudden dismount on a climb is my main hesitation with picking up this frame.
    The stand over is on the high side, but the TT is fairly wide and flat. Not like slamming your knee into the stem.

    I notice high TTs more while riding than when stopped.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  17. #542
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    All good points, Shiggy. Still, if anyone wouldn't mind posting what their actual standover height is I'd very much appreciate it.

  18. #543
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    My buddies at Swell Bicycles in SF finally finished my build (my fault on the delay, not theirs). This bike is rad. 18.2 lbs. with On-One fork, Stans/Chris King wheels, Race Face Next SL cranks, Magura Marta brakes, Easton other bits. Very impressive handling and the rigid is manageable after getting used to it.

    Any advice on a larger tire up front for the rigid setup? I am running Kenda Karmas now and they feel a bit harsh.

  19. #544
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    yay another size question

    seriously though I am puzzled.I am 5'10 with a 32 inch inseam, I ride a large epic with a 615 top tube and a 105mm stem. bike feels awesome and I can ride for hours without any weird pains showing up. the 18 inch lurcher is 602 tt and the 19.5 is 619. so my gut tells me to go with the 19.5 and run a 90mm stem. am I crazy on this? is there anything like seat angle that I might be missing that would put me on the 18? another thing that might be important is I don't run super wide bars. I am in the 660 range. when I start to go with the wider bar I get neck pains.

    I have also ridden a large sc highball which I thought was kind of small 610 top tube with a 100mm stem, and a sette razzo alloy that was an 18 that I also thought was on the small side 602mm top tube with a 100mm stem.

    I am having build a bike fever and need to scratch the itch.

  20. #545
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    Quote Originally Posted by adumb View Post
    seriously though I am puzzled.I am 5'10 with a 32 inch inseam, I ride a large epic with a 615 top tube and a 105mm stem.
    That's wild. I prefer a bike with a 622mm top tube and I'm between 6'2" and 6'3" depending on how buoyant my hair is that day. Industry standard would put you squarely in a medium. If you reference Niner Bikes' height recommendations, they suggest that a medium with a 607mm ETT will fit someone between 5'8" and 6'. Obviously go with what feels best to you, but I think you might enjoy trying the medium for two reasons: the lower top tube and the shorter wheelbase (which makes turning on tight switchbacks much easier). Oh, and it won't stretch you out quite so much, which could help alleviate some of the neck discomfort. That's crucial, too.

  21. #546
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    good points, I think you might have swayed me to go with the 18 and maybe rethink my sizing. now if only they would get some of the ss swapouts in stock and the tapered rigid fork in black/orange I would be able to build the whole thing. as of now I am just going to be sitting on a frame for a little while.

  22. #547
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    Orrrr... you can slap one of these bad boys on the frame and get on the trails now while you wait for the drop outs to get back in stock:

    Sette Single Speed Tensioner | Sette

    I still have one sitting in my parts bin from a project build that I stopped riding in 2008. It's inexpensive and nice to have sitting around juuuuust in case you decide that your geared bike would look better with just one gear.

  23. #548
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    Here's another option that you can have by this weekend if you are a Prime member:

    Amazon.com : Conversion Kit Fixie Bike Single Speed with Tensioner : Bike Cassettes And Freewheels : Sports & Outdoors

  24. #549
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    I have the second one you posted. I was excited to not have to use it anymore. Plus I want to try rigid for winter riding

  25. #550
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    Hi

    I juz got my Lurcher about a month ago..

    Well, first there was a delay in the build.. They ran out of forks.. They built my bike only about 3 weeks after the order.. Waiting was a beech!

    Well the bike came.. I thought it was supposed to be 90% built up.

    It was probably 70%.. I brought it to a LBS to get it set up..

    Rotors were a little warped.. Had to fine tune it.. Rear D was not installed.. Brakes not aligned.. Cables were too long..

    Anyway was satisfied with the bike after that! Mines a black and yellow and it gets stares everywhere I go! Works great on the trails too!

    One small problem left.. There's a creaking sound at the crank area when I pedal hard..

    Could it be a crack in the frame? I'm reading some forums and it says the bolts may be loose somewhere.. Got this problem after 1 week of riding on pavements..

    Hope it's not the frame

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