Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 100 of 137
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    23

    On One Inbred Build

    Got my frame yesterday and so I installed a couple of items. Thought I would share my build.



    Build List:
    Have already
    Frame - On One Inbred 18" Orange
    Fork - 08' Fox F29 RLC
    Headset - S3 + 5
    Stem - Thomson Elite 90mm 5degree
    Seatpost - Thomson Elite 410
    Crankset - Eno w/32 tooth chainring
    Brakes - Avid Elixer CR

    Ordering soon
    Handlebars - Salsa Moto Ace 17sweep
    Grips - Ergon (not sure which ones)
    Seatpost clamp - Salsa quick clamp
    Bottom Bracket - Shimano un54 (I think 115 width)
    Wheelset - No Idea Yet (Possibly the Stans ZTR with Arch or Flows)
    Rear cog - Not sure brand but 20 tooth
    Chain - I will just order when I order the wheelset
    Pedals - Can not decide between clip or not so I do not know
    Seat - Charge Spoon
    Tires - Not sure

    Let me know if you have any thoughts on the parts I will be ordering, alternates or suggestions. I live in Southern CA and weigh about 155lb's. Thanks and I will update the thread as I receive more of the parts.
    Mike

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    9
    nice color choice for frame. I am looking at those, as well...Are the stickers clear coated over or do they seem they would be easily removed? Something i just do not like; a website url/advertisement on something im using....

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    23
    Ya the stickers are clear coated over. I like the orange color as well, it's very bright in person. Can not wait to finish it and to be able to ride her.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: plussa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    292
    I'm hijacking this thread with my Inbred build:



    19,5" Inbred 29er
    Reba 29" w/poploc
    Hope headset
    Juicy 7 with Hope rotors
    Hope Pro II / Stan's 355, singlespeed hub with bolts rear (very LOUD! )
    Stan's 29" rimstrip and sealant
    Kenda Nevagal Stick-E 2,25"
    Truvativ Stylo GXP 180mm 32t cranks (Middleburn Uno 180mm and XT bb waiting for installation)
    20t cog winter / 18t cog summer
    On-One schaintugs on both sides
    Thomson Elite seatpost
    Truvativ XR Stem (Thomson some day...)
    On-One Fleegle bars 710mm
    Fizik Pavé saddle
    XTR 970 pedals
    WTB grips
    On-One qr seatclamp

    The frame replaced my old Haro Mary, which was a bit small for me... Ride feel is quite similar with both frames.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    23
    Nice build! How do you like those 355 rims? I am looking at having stans build a set for mine. I am about 170 geared up. Good choice on the color as well. The orange is super bright in person.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: toddre's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    2,383
    great looking frames. I have one of the original white ones.
    I have a definate love/hate relationship with mine.
    I love the way it rides, but the head tubes are too short for us tall guys.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    9
    Quote Originally Posted by toddre
    great looking frames. I have one of the original white ones.
    I have a definate love/hate relationship with mine.
    I love the way it rides, but the head tubes are too short for us tall guys.
    seems to be a common thread with frames i have been reading a lot about lately.
    vassago, and now on one...interesting

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: toddre's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    2,383
    Quote Originally Posted by j.w.1
    seems to be a common thread with frames i have been reading a lot about lately.
    vassago, and now on one...interesting

    Yeah, it seems the "mail order" type steel frames have this problem... no idea why, cheaper I guess.
    I'm replacing mine with a Sette Razzo frame for the time being

  9. #9
    rob
    rob is offline
    slakDawg
    Reputation: rob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    469
    Very nice. I got my General Inbred Lee yesterday. Build likely won't happen until this coming w/e.




    BTW: "Seatpost clamp - Salsa quick clamp" After years of running Salsa, I tried a Hope QR. I much prefer it over the Salsa. I like the way I can swing the lever up after tightening. Less likely to snag my baggies when getting back on the downhills.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: plussa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    292
    Quote Originally Posted by konak
    Nice build! How do you like those 355 rims?.
    Compared to Mavic Maxtal alloy rims the material seems to be softer. I already dented the rear wheel quite badly, which has never happened with Mavic XC717 that I've had for four years now...

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    863
    Looks good in orange,i have the old white one aswell.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation: toddre's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    2,383
    Quote Originally Posted by LIFECYCLE
    Looks good in orange,i have the old white one aswell.

    I have a decal set sitting on my bench now. Maybe I should get it painted...

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    13

    Another hijack!

    Here is my new winter bike!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails On One Inbred Build-456.jpg  

    Patrick

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    625
    Swell bike and all, but isn't this the 29er forum?

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    13

    My Bad....

    Sorry... posting a 26er here... that is just bad karma.
    Patrick

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    983
    Quote Originally Posted by LIFECYCLE
    Looks good in orange,i have the old white one aswell.
    I'm waiting to see one of the new purple 29ers build up. Anyone got one?

  17. #17
    rob
    rob is offline
    slakDawg
    Reputation: rob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    469
    Quote Originally Posted by Clink
    I'm waiting to see one of the new purple 29ers build up. Anyone got one?
    http://mtb.unrealcycles.com/catalog/item476.htm

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    119
    Lovely builds.

    thinking about getting an orange inbred too.

    Do the frames need alot of prepping as they get delivered?
    Are there any 'home mechanics' ways to do it without all the expensive tools. I'm thinking headtube, bracket and diskbrake tabs. Any one doing it themselves? Tips?

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    983
    Nice; need to see one built up though!!
    Also anyone my height (5'10") riding a 16"? I've got an 18" already which is great (rigid, ss), but fancying a 16" (slightly slacker ha) to run geared with 100mm sus, layback post.

  20. #20
    rob
    rob is offline
    slakDawg
    Reputation: rob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    469
    Quote Originally Posted by annoying crack
    Do the frames need alot of prepping as they get delivered?
    Are there any 'home mechanics' ways to do it without all the expensive tools. I'm thinking headtube, bracket and diskbrake tabs. Any one doing it themselves? Tips?
    On 2 previous Inbreds, I've only sprayed the insides of the tubes with framesaver (Boeshield) and had the bottom bracket faced (done at shop for ~$20). Didn't worry about the head tube or the disk mounts. A slight sanding of those surfaces just to remove any paint bumps. No issues in over 3 years. I'll do the same with my new one.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation: monocog16's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    30
    sweet bikes, im getting the 19.5 in orange some time next week. cant wait

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation: thasingletrackmastah's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    384
    Nice bikes.
    I Like the new orange color very much.
    thinking 'bout ordering one myself.
    Right now I'm riding mine with an Alfine, might be a good idea to build on as a singlespeed instead of constantly changing parts.

    I don't understand how the top tube could be to short on this bikes.
    Or is it you bought them to small ?
    I'm 1,83m (6ft), inseam 34" and with relative long arms I fit just fine on my 19.5" Inbred.
    110mm stem, low riser.
    Belgian beer and Scotch whisky.

  23. #23
    rob
    rob is offline
    slakDawg
    Reputation: rob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    469
    Quote Originally Posted by thasingletrackmastah
    I don't understand how the top tube could be to short on this bikes.
    Quote Originally Posted by toddre
    ...but the head tubes are too short for us tall guys.
    I run a couple of inches of spacers under my stem, to get a little more upright. But I'm also using the Fleegle bar, which is flat. I'll probably get a riser of some sort for the new build.



    I run 6'3" 35" inseam on a 19.5 with a laid back Thomson. Works for me.

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation: thasingletrackmastah's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    384
    Oops, my mistake.
    Now it figures...

    I read somewhere that the short headtube is by design.
    It helps to keep the bars down.
    I have my stem pointed down, no spacers.
    I find it gives me more leverage when climbing.
    Belgian beer and Scotch whisky.

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    23
    As for frame prep, I pressed the headset cups in myself with a press I made. I am using a square taper bottom bracket so facingof the BB shell was not needed for me. The disk mounts I was told by UnrealCycles that they have built a ton of these up and have never faced them. I have not installed them yet though, so we will see when I get to them. I have never heard about using framesaver as this is my first steel frame. Not sure if I am going to use it or not, might just spray some WD40 in all areas that I can get to and hope for the best. Anywyas I ordered more parts the other day and they should be arriving soon. Got the BB, Charge Spoon seat (black), Salsa Moto Ace bars, 17 sweep in black, and the Salsa quick release in black. I will update with new pics as I get more parts and Install.

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Frank Z's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    79
    I got mine (orange, 19,5") last week: so beautifull! Now busy with scrounging parts. Get one while you can 'cos the Inbred is dead....

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dmx1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    424
    Got a orange Inbred 29 as well. Got a tang Niner 490 fork to (almost) match. Still waiting for some parts......

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation: foxtrot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    266
    Its nice to see some picks of the new colored Inbreds! I've been waiting for them. I want the purple!! I already have a pink scandal; maybe I can justify building one up for a road/cruiser bike....!?

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Frank Z's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    79
    I'm sure you can justify it: I could....!

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation: foxtrot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    266
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Z
    I got mine (orange, 19,5") last week: so beautifull! Now busy with scrounging parts. Get one while you can 'cos the Inbred is dead....
    Looking forward to seeing what you come up with. Also, not sure what you mean by "dead"?? Really...I'm just looking for another reason to justify buying one of these frames!

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dmx1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    424
    Here's mine. Freshly built today .....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails On One Inbred Build-100_0299.jpg  


  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    129
    Do you have a picture of that straight on from the side. I am curious as to the head angle with the longer fork as that is what I'm wanting to do as well.
    Thanks.

    Nice looking bike.

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    983
    Still no purple frames.....somebody must have one?!

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    18
    I am 5'10" and ride a 16". Not using a lay back post, either. Fits well. So well I bought the 16" ti Inbred!

    Anyone want a steel 16" in beige?

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    983
    Anyone want a steel 16" in beige
    Yes - but i suspect posting to the uk might be costly! :-)
    I'm thinking of trying a 16" - as post above. Any pics of your 16" frame built up for your height?

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dmx1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    424
    ok here's from the other side....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails On One Inbred Build-100_0292.jpg  


  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation: boomn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    9,647
    Quote Originally Posted by foxtrot
    Looking forward to seeing what you come up with. Also, not sure what you mean by "dead"?? Really...I'm just looking for another reason to justify buying one of these frames!
    Read through this thread about them being dead

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    482
    Quote Originally Posted by dmx1
    Here's mine. Freshly built today .....

    what size frame is that?

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dmx1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    424
    Quote Originally Posted by worrptangl
    what size frame is that?

    18 "

  40. #40
    rob
    rob is offline
    slakDawg
    Reputation: rob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    469
    I got mine built up last night. Just need to trim the steerer tube.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails On One Inbred Build-generalleenbred.jpg  


  41. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    983
    Quote Originally Posted by dmx1
    ok here's from the other side....
    What's it ride like with the 490 fork??

  42. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dmx1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    424
    Haven't been able to test it yet. Waiting for the correct size of seatclamp. Should arrive tomorrow.

  43. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    191
    Quote Originally Posted by dmx1
    Haven't been able to test it yet. Waiting for the correct size of seatclamp. Should arrive tomorrow.
    Just a heads up on the fork. I had a 490mm Niner fork on a steel Inbred 29er awhile back and it didn't ride well. The 490 length raked out the front a lot and I could feel it on long climbs and even more on short steep climbs. It felt ok on anything downhill.

    This frame would be really nice with a nude carbon Niner 470mm fork or the new all black On One 470 carbon fork.

    Plus the 490 length Niner fork is heavy...
    Visit my Photography Website
    http://www.wanderlustgalleries.com

  44. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation: boomn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    9,647
    Quote Originally Posted by shile
    Just a heads up on the fork. I had a 490mm Niner fork on a steel Inbred 29er awhile back and it didn't ride well. The 490 length raked out the front a lot and I could feel it on long climbs and even more on short steep climbs. It felt ok on anything downhill.

    This frame would be really nice with a nude carbon Niner 470mm fork or the new all black On One 470 carbon fork.

    Plus the 490 length Niner fork is heavy...
    Good to point out, but certainly a matter of preference. I do like the 470mm rigid fork I have on my Inbred, but I also really like it with my 100mm susp fork (512mm or 490 with sag)

  45. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dmx1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    424
    Yes, the handlebars are almost at the same level as on my Heckler with a Fox 36 up front. I think I need to lower the front as fas as possible and install a flatbar., then we'll see. I'm used to riding long forks (36, Totem, 40)

  46. #46
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    23
    Well, I finished my build last night.

    Sorry for the crappy pic (iphone in garage). Anyways I went and rode her this morning at a local trail (Towsley Canyon) and had a blast. Got to build up my legs to handle long climbs but she rode wonderfully.

  47. #47
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    4


    My Inbred after a wet n muddy ride!!!

  48. #48
    mtbr member
    Reputation: boomn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    9,647
    Quote Originally Posted by juanhiao


    My Inbred after a wet n muddy ride!!!
    looks like the formatting got messed up. Here's the photos


  49. #49
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    4
    OOOPS... 1st time posting photos
    Thanks for helping Boomn





    After a wet and muddy ride.

  50. #50
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bagheera's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    58

    my girlz 16"


  51. #51
    mtbr member
    Reputation: foxtrot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    266
    Quote Originally Posted by bagheera
    my girlz 16"

    Super Nice!! How much suspension on that fork? Your a good man!
    On-One ScandAl 29er
    "...Obviously you're not a golfer"

  52. #52
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bagheera's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    58
    Quote Originally Posted by foxtrot
    Super Nice!! How much suspension on that fork? Your a good man!

    Thanks That's a 100mm Reba. She was interested in a full suspension 26'r. Since I was paying I bought the rrrrreal thing, she is SUPER stoked!!!! And of course the color is

  53. #53
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Dgtlbliss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    129
    I have that same frame arriving this week for my wife. She's stoked to have a purple bike. It's gonna be built up from the spare parts bin for the most part, cept for the fork, saddle, and meats.

  54. #54
    .......
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    3,707
    Any of you know of a good way to cover up that inbred dude on the seat tube? My wife loves her Inbred (26"), but not fond of that dude. Maybe just a sticker will be the easiest.

  55. #55
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mattbryant2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    1,162
    I have a lightly used On One Superlight steel fork with a 7" steerer tube, if interested PM me.

  56. #56
    Did I catch a niner+?
    Reputation: Mr Pink57's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    2,945






    Just finished it about 10 minutes ago

    The BB7 does fit just on release it hits against the frame so a frame saver of course fixed this. This was my first bike build up and took about 5hrs for me to do. I had to have the LBS press fit the headset and cut the Project 321 post (they gave me a great deal on everything, only charged for a headset install).

    The two reasons I decided to build it were the MK 2.4 rubbed on my Cannondale frame, and that it was raining.

    EDIT: Cranks are fixed!
    Last edited by Mr Pink57; 06-14-2010 at 02:22 PM.
    Mr. Krabs: Is it true, Squidward? Is it hilarious?

  57. #57
    .......
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    3,707
    Hey, thought you were going to sell that frame? Glad you decided to build it up. Looks great. On my wife's, I just filed down that bolt a little bit. Frame saver is a good idea, but I'm assuming that multiple hits from the bolt would sheer right through it.

  58. #58
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    983
    This was my first bike build up and took about 5hrs for me to do.
    Nice - but your cranks don't look right!

  59. #59
    WNC Native
    Reputation: nitrousjunky's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    3,213
    Quote Originally Posted by Clink
    Nice - but your cranks don't look right!
    LOL, maybe he's starting a new trend
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  60. #60
    Did I catch a niner+?
    Reputation: Mr Pink57's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    2,945
    Quote Originally Posted by p nut[B
    ]Hey, thought you were going to sell that frame?[/B] Glad you decided to build it up. Looks great. On my wife's, I just filed down that bolt a little bit. Frame saver is a good idea, but I'm assuming that multiple hits from the bolt would sheer right through it.
    Did not got much for buyers

    It probably will go through it but I will cross that bridge when I get there. I do have some hydro brakes I can put on also but I don't want to go through trouble of bleeding them right now.
    Mr. Krabs: Is it true, Squidward? Is it hilarious?

  61. #61
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mrjustin007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    296

    Front Derailleur

    Getting an Inbred 29er, I want to run 3x8, On-ones site says the derailleur clamp is 29.8, can't seem to find that size, do I need a shim?
    WTB: Bontrager Comp Fork & Syncros metal top cap

  62. #62
    mtbr member
    Reputation: boomn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    9,647
    Quote Originally Posted by mrjustin007
    Getting an Inbred 29er, I want to run 3x8, On-ones site says the derailleur clamp is 29.8, can't seem to find that size, do I need a shim?
    Looks like the have two of the numbers on their website transposed. 29.8mm is the seat clamp size and 28.6mm is the front derailleur clamp size.

  63. #63
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mrjustin007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    296
    Thanks, that confused me. Makes it far easier to find a derailleur.
    WTB: Bontrager Comp Fork & Syncros metal top cap

  64. #64
    .......
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    3,707
    On One has quite a few mistakes on their site (example: 26er Inbred says v-brake mount is removeable - but they don't come with v-brake mounts period). But at least they're good at making bike parts.

    Prices seem to have gone up a bit, as now it's $269 shipped from On One (compared to $250 shipped a few weeks ago).

  65. #65
    mtbr member
    Reputation: boomn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    9,647
    Quote Originally Posted by p nut
    Prices seem to have gone up a bit, as now it's $269 shipped from On One (compared to $250 shipped a few weeks ago).
    yep, the exchange rate is on the move back in the other direction now. I think their price in pounds hasn't changed

  66. #66
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    113
    Hi, am getting an On One Inbred 29er and am wondering if I would be better served with an On One 29er carbon fork or an On One 26 inch carbon fork but running a 29 inch front tire ala the Ragley TD-1

    Some opinions please....

  67. #67
    mtbr member
    Reputation: A1an's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    1,920
    Wow...I'm really digging the rear caliper placement. Curious how much an XL frame weighs.
    Signature

  68. #68
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    64
    For those running a front derailleur, what are you guys using to shim the derailleur clamp? Can't seem to find any shims for 28.6 to 34.9 clamp.

  69. #69
    mtbr member
    Reputation: boomn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    9,647
    Quote Originally Posted by sankaman
    For those running a front derailleur, what are you guys using to shim the derailleur clamp? Can't seem to find any shims for 28.6 to 34.9 clamp.
    What brand/model did you get? My Shimano FDs have always come with the necessary shims.

  70. #70
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    64
    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    What brand/model did you get? My Shimano FDs have always come with the necessary shims.
    I have an on one 456 and I'm using a shimano xt fd. I believe my fd only came with a shim for 30.6mm tube.

  71. #71
    mtbr member
    Reputation: boomn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    9,647
    Quote Originally Posted by sankaman
    I have an on one 456 and I'm using a shimano xt fd. I believe my fd only came with a shim for 30.6mm tube.
    interesting. Maybe they don't ship 28.6 clamps anymore because they are now less common? Just guessing

    Anyway, Shimano does sell the clamps separately

  72. #72
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    64
    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    interesting. Maybe they don't ship 28.6 clamps anymore because they are now less common? Just guessing

    Anyway, Shimano does sell the clamps separately
    thanks for the link. My current setup is a PITA and ugly to look at.

  73. #73
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    29

    Inbred 29er

    I have a Onone Ti 456 an ace bike. I really want to build up a 29er. I'm just of 6 ft so was thinking a 20 or 19.5 inch frame what do you reckon?

    Should I get an Inbred. should I wait to see what Onone are going to deliver with the carbon 29er and new breed inbred?

    I'm a bike addict!

  74. #74
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    6,542
    I can say with complete confidence that you will love your Inbred. Anybody who owns one will agree - they are beautifully crafted and the do-it-all geometry is the shizzle. Steel, too? You (and by saying "you" I mean WE) will have these frames for 20+ years swapping out parts as they get bad. I'll ride my Inbred forever.

    I wish the purple was offered when I bought mine, though

  75. #75
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    191
    Quote Originally Posted by zarf1
    I have a Onone Ti 456 an ace bike. I really want to build up a 29er. I'm just of 6 ft so was thinking a 20 or 19.5 inch frame what do you reckon?

    Should I get an Inbred. should I wait to see what Onone are going to deliver with the carbon 29er and new breed inbred?
    If you're in the US, www.unrealcycles.com might have some 19.5 Inbreds. I'm 5-10 and the 18" is perfect so the next size up sounds like your size. Actually with a 100mm fork, the standover is a little high, but still ok.

    I don't know anything about the new Inbreds. What are they coming out with as a replacement?

    As far as the carbon, I'd wait another year or so and let them work any bugs and get some better graphic and color options. I think Unreal also has some ti 29ers left, but not sure on the size. Call Pete and ask him.

    Steve
    Visit my Photography Website
    http://www.wanderlustgalleries.com

  76. #76
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,331
    I ride a On One 456 frame 69er'd the on one steel fork will just about take a 29" wheel with the steerer tube that sticks out the bottom cut back, 16" frame, I'm 6'2" but like really short frames, gives loads of seat post out for comfort to, still running on a 70mm stem.

    It rides well heavy compared to the Alu frame before, but I can run pretty much any sized tire I want in the rear and it's cheap which is always a bonus.

    Mine needed a really long BB axle be warned, had to use a HT2 spacer with my old Square taper of the donar bike to stop chain hitting the frame.

    I've got 90mm's of spacers under the stem aswell to get a nice comfy sit up and beg position and stop it trashing my arms.

  77. #77
    highly visible
    Reputation: GlowBoy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,185
    Quote Originally Posted by shile
    I don't know anything about the new Inbreds. What are they coming out with as a replacement?
    The new ones will have slightly different tubing and cable routing, along with taperlock dropouts. Also, the 16" will finally have rack mounts (an odd and poorly documented omission on the current model).
    "People like GloyBoy are deaf. They are partisan, intellectually lazy & usually very angry." -Jaybo

  78. #78
    Short-Change-Hero
    Reputation: gregnash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    4,647
    Does anyone know if they will be changing the brake racks so that they are more compatible with the 160mm BB7s?

    EDIT:
    Emailed them yesterday and got a response this morning. They are coming out with a new model at the beginning of the year (spring for sales release) and it is supposed to fix some of the old issues, now with a removeable drop-out. Wondering if I should wait for the new one to come out or just pick up one from Unreal?? Talking with the guy, apparently the BB7 issues is really only seen on the smaller frames as the larger ones still contact the caliper but less than with the smaller frames (mainly the 16").
    Last edited by gregnash; 10-19-2010 at 02:07 PM.

  79. #79
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    626
    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash
    Does anyone know if they will be changing the brake racks so that they are more compatible with the 160mm BB7s?

    EDIT:
    Emailed them yesterday and got a response this morning. They are coming out with a new model at the beginning of the year (spring for sales release) and it is supposed to fix some of the old issues, now with a removeable drop-out. Wondering if I should wait for the new one to come out or just pick up one from Unreal?? Talking with the guy, apparently the BB7 issues is really only seen on the smaller frames as the larger ones still contact the caliper but less than with the smaller frames (mainly the 16").
    I am thinking about getting one right now. These frames have been around for quite some time and there no issues so it is safe to to get them. As far as I know some of the One One bikes did not pass EU CEN testing...

  80. #80
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    6,542
    For those of you running gears - are you running into the problem of the wheel sliding in the dropout on hefty, technical climbs? I had to move my rear wheel all the way, butted up against the front of the drop-out to prevent wheel slippage. Even with my Salsa Skewers, it still moved. It's a little of a PITA to remove the rear wheel with the SLX derailleur, as well.

    BTW, I'm done with the drops. They are great for certain situations and very, very comfortable on shorter rides. Nothing against drops, but I think a standard riser suits me well. Some people think they look goofy - I still think they look sweet.

    On One Inbred Build-img_0242.jpg

  81. #81
    mtbr member
    Reputation: boomn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    9,647
    Quote Originally Posted by Dion
    For those of you running gears - are you running into the problem of the wheel sliding in the dropout on hefty, technical climbs? I had to move my rear wheel all the way, butted up against the front of the drop-out to prevent wheel slippage. Even with my Salsa Skewers, it still moved. It's a little of a PITA to remove the rear wheel with the SLX derailleur, as well.

    BTW, I'm done with the drops. They are great for certain situations and very, very comfortable on shorter rides. Nothing against drops, but I think a standard riser suits me well. Some people think they look goofy - I still think they look sweet.
    Nope, I've never had slippage. Shimano skewers were highly recommended by the SS guys because they clamp harder than any others. They don't seem to think to highly of skewers without the common exposed cam design, even boutique ones like Salsa. I got an XT skewer for the rear and it worked great.. no slipping in over a year of SS riding and a bit of geared riding mixed in too. I've since moved to a 10mm thru-bolt setup that hasn't slipped either.

    When running gears I've always moved the wheel to the front of the dropouts because i like just pushing the wheel in and clamping it down without worrying about alignment. Plus I prefer the feel with the shorter chainstay length. I'm curious about your reasons for preferring the wheel further back.

    Your bike always looked so classy with the drops; I'm sad to seem them go. Are you keeping the bar-ends and converting them to thumbies for your riser or converting to indexed shifting?

  82. #82
    Short-Change-Hero
    Reputation: gregnash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    4,647
    I had read somewhere that it was recommended to take the paint off the dropouts so that they would not slip. Has anyone done this?

  83. #83
    mtbr member
    Reputation: wobbem's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    571
    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    I've since moved to a 10mm thru-bolt setup that hasn't slipped either.

    When running gears I've always moved the wheel to the front of the dropouts because i like just pushing the wheel in and clamping it down without worrying about alignment. Plus I prefer the feel with the shorter chainstay length. I'm curious about your reasons for preferring the wheel further back.
    I'm doing the same, all is good.

  84. #84
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    6,542
    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    Nope, I've never had slippage. Shimano skewers were highly recommended by the SS guys because they clamp harder than any others. They don't seem to think to highly of skewers without the common exposed cam design, even boutique ones like Salsa. I got an XT skewer for the rear and it worked great.. no slipping in over a year of SS riding and a bit of geared riding mixed in too. I've since moved to a 10mm thru-bolt setup that hasn't slipped either.

    When running gears I've always moved the wheel to the front of the dropouts because i like just pushing the wheel in and clamping it down without worrying about alignment. Plus I prefer the feel with the shorter chainstay length. I'm curious about your reasons for preferring the wheel further back.

    Your bike always looked so classy with the drops; I'm sad to seem them go. Are you keeping the bar-ends and converting them to thumbies for your riser or converting to indexed shifting?
    Thanks, bro.

    The front DR had some stupid piece of plastic where the excess cable would sit that would rub the tire. A hacksaw and my bench de-burring tool fixed that one, then I was able to move the wheel back up. But there is no reason to be keeping the wheel back except to clear that stupid piece I had to hack off.

    I use the cheapo Falcon friction shifters on all my bikes, including my CX race bike AND my 26" XC bike I plan on racing next spring. I just love the old school friction, and how I can bang from the biggest cog to the smallest and vie-versa in one fell swoop. Plus, there's no real adjusting to do, which I never get right with index shifting.

    Even these bar end shifters are set up in friction mode.

  85. #85
    mtbr member
    Reputation: boomn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    9,647
    Quote Originally Posted by Dion
    I use the cheapo Falcon friction shifters on all my bikes, including my CX race bike AND my 26" XC bike I plan on racing next spring. I just love the old school friction, and how I can bang from the biggest cog to the smallest and vie-versa in one fell swoop. Plus, there's no real adjusting to do, which I never get right with index shifting.

    Even these bar end shifters are set up in friction mode.
    Cool, maybe you help me with a friction shifting question. I bought a pair of these similar looking SunRace shifters recently and when I tried them I had a hard time with the ergonomics of the things. Since the lever is fairly long and lever pivot is centered over the bar the lever was almost out of reach of my thumb when it was in the 1st position. Then because of how much the lever traveled around the shifter, at the far other end of it's travel it was unreachable there too without taking too much of my hand off the bars

    The pictures and videos I've seen of bar-ends on Paul Thumbies look like a much better position and a more reasonable amount of lever travel making them much easier to use. If only I could find something similar for a lot less money... but isn't that always the problem, haha. How do the Falcon shifters feel? Could I trouble you for a good picture of them installed?

  86. #86
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    81

    Salsa slippage...

    [QUOTE=Dion]For those of you running gears - are you running into the problem of the wheel sliding in the dropout on hefty, technical climbs? I had to move my rear wheel all the way, butted up against the front of the drop-out to prevent wheel slippage. Even with my Salsa Skewers, it still moved. It's a little of a PITA to remove the rear wheel with the SLX derailleur, as well.

    I am running gears and used to just have some cheapo no name skewers and had absolutely no issues. I recently "upgraded" to a set of Salsa skewers and am having issues with the rear sliding/shifting. It seem to happen if I put a lot of torque on the pedals when climbing standing up or on an off camber turn at speed. Seems to shift no matter how tight I clamp the Salsa's.

  87. #87
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    6,542
    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    Cool, maybe you help me with a friction shifting question. I bought a pair of these similar looking SunRace shifters recently and when I tried them I had a hard time with the ergonomics of the things. Since the lever is fairly long and lever pivot is centered over the bar the lever was almost out of reach of my thumb when it was in the 1st position. Then because of how much the lever traveled around the shifter, at the far other end of it's travel it was unreachable there too without taking too much of my hand off the bars

    The pictures and videos I've seen of bar-ends on Paul Thumbies look like a much better position and a more reasonable amount of lever travel making them much easier to use. If only I could find something similar for a lot less money... but isn't that always the problem, haha. How do the Falcon shifters feel? Could I trouble you for a good picture of them installed?
    I think the term "thumb shifter" is not quite accurate. You actually do have to take your hand off the bar, but I have to say that you do get comfortable with it and it isn't that bad. What it DOES force you to do is to get into the correct gearing before you climb or descend - especially with the front gears. If I know the climb is going to be tough, I get into my small ring first and just dance in the rear cog (trying not to cross chain, though). If there's a lot of ups and downs, you find a gear that is fine with the descends, but still alows you to mash on the ups. In other words, it's like riding single-speed with the option to shift. You find yourself not shifting as much.

    If you're used to trigger shifters, the friction "thumbies" are wierd at first. Once you get it though, it's very nice to have a handle on shifting old school. It's like the difference between a regular old stick shift and using paddle shifters in a car.

    My CX bike is a 1X8 with a Paul Chain Keeper and it works fantastic.

    The Falcons are cheap, easily replaceable and repairable with basic hardware store stuff. $10 a pair, and they are lighter and more dependable than any high end index trigger shifter I've ever owned.

    On One Inbred Build-img_0112.jpg

    On One Inbred Build-img_0666.jpg

    On One Inbred Build-img_0663.jpg

  88. #88
    mtbr member
    Reputation: boomn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    9,647
    Quote Originally Posted by Dion
    I think the term "thumb shifter" is not quite accurate. You actually do have to take your hand off the bar, but I have to say that you do get comfortable with it and it isn't that bad. What it DOES force you to do is to get into the correct gearing before you climb or descend - especially with the front gears. If I know the climb is going to be tough, I get into my small ring first and just dance in the rear cog (trying not to cross chain, though). If there's a lot of ups and downs, you find a gear that is fine with the descends, but still alows you to mash on the ups. In other words, it's like riding single-speed with the option to shift. You find yourself not shifting as much.

    If you're used to trigger shifters, the friction "thumbies" are wierd at first. Once you get it though, it's very nice to have a handle on shifting old school. It's like the difference between a regular old stick shift and using paddle shifters in a car.

    My CX bike is a 1X8 with a Paul Chain Keeper and it works fantastic.

    The Falcons are cheap, easily replaceable and repairable with basic hardware store stuff. $10 a pair, and they are lighter and more dependable than any high end index trigger shifter I've ever owned.
    Thanks for the insight. I'll have to get my shifters back on the bike and spend more time playing around them

  89. #89
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    416
    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    The pictures and videos I've seen of bar-ends on Paul Thumbies look like a much better position and a more reasonable amount of lever travel making them much easier to use. If only I could find something similar for a lot less money... but isn't that always the problem, haha. How do the Falcon shifters feel? Could I trouble you for a good picture of them installed?

    SA has a barcon lever for their S3X three speed fixed hub. I bought that one for about 8 euro's and used a shimano 9 speed barcon as shift lever. Only trouble is that it is right side only.

    Pics:

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/1001366...7624553341672/

  90. #90
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dmx1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    424
    Running Race King 2.2s on my Inbred I had to slide the rear wheel back for about 10 mm, the high sidewalls of the RK were scraping the FD. Luckily I had my chaintugs (left and right) from my SS set-up to get the wheel fixed solidly. When I told the guys from On One about the problem they said they'd never heard of it....

  91. #91
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    6,542
    Quote Originally Posted by dmx1
    Running Race King 2.2s on my Inbred I had to slide the rear wheel back for about 10 mm, the high sidewalls of the RK were scraping the FD. Luckily I had my chaintugs (left and right) from my SS set-up to get the wheel fixed solidly. When I told the guys from On One about the problem they said they'd never heard of it....
    So that's 3? of us that has experienced this problem? It's almost like you need to butt it up against the front of the dropout or use a chaintug. I actually like the wheel all the way moved forward, but that shouldn't be required.

  92. #92
    Short-Change-Hero
    Reputation: gregnash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    4,647
    How much wheel clearance do you lose when butting it all the way forward? I was looking at running the Ardent 2.25" all around or 2.4" up front and 2.25" in back. Would I hit with it move all the way forward?

  93. #93
    mtbr member
    Reputation: boomn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    9,647
    the front derailleur clearance can definitely be tight with the wheel all the way forward, but some FD models have better clearance than others. Also, I believe cutting off the bottom-pull arm on a Shimano FD gives it a ton of room. I honestly haven't done any experimenting myself because when I've run gears its either been 1x9 with big tires or 2x9 with small race tires

  94. #94
    mtbr member
    Reputation: thasingletrackmastah's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    384
    My rear wheel is all the way up front in the dropout.
    With a Geax Suguaro 29x2.2 I have just enough room foor the FD (XT top pull downswing), but I had to saw off the pull down lever.
    Newer XT FD's (as of 2008?) have a little more tire clearence.
    Belgian beer and Scotch whisky.

  95. #95
    Short-Change-Hero
    Reputation: gregnash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    4,647
    Ok I have an XT FD-M770 FD, how do I tell if it is a dual-pull or top/bottom pull?

  96. #96
    mtbr member
    Reputation: boomn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    9,647
    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash
    Ok I have an XT FD-M770 FD, how do I tell if it is a dual-pull or top/bottom pull?
    M770 is dual-pull

  97. #97
    Short-Change-Hero
    Reputation: gregnash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    4,647
    Ok now I see how it does both... that is kinda nifty! I was wondering how the hell you did a bottom pull with it but I see in the tech doc now. So the question is, which is the best setup for the Inbred (more than likely will be getting the 19.5")

  98. #98
    mtbr member
    Reputation: boomn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    9,647
    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash
    Ok now I see how it does both... that is kinda nifty! I was wondering how the hell you did a bottom pull with it but I see in the tech doc now. So the question is, which is the best setup for the Inbred (more than likely will be getting the 19.5")
    A frame is designed for one or the other and can't really be converted. My older Inbred is top-pull, but from the notes about the new Inbred it looks like they might actually bottom-pull on the new 2ng generation frames they're listing

  99. #99
    Short-Change-Hero
    Reputation: gregnash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    4,647
    Talked to the guys at Unreal today and the ones they sell are 1st gens which are top pull according to them. Need to find out the 2nd gen is but should be good no matter what.. Picked up my XT Crank and XT BB today!! Getting excited for this bike to come together over the winter.

  100. #100
    conjoinicorned
    Reputation: ferday's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,527
    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    Thanks for the insight. I'll have to get my shifters back on the bike and spend more time playing around them
    the real fun in friction/barcon shifters is the ability to ride your bike differently...you can dump massive amounts of gear instantly (even the whole stack if you giv'r). i really like it with 1x9, almost rides like an SS but with gear options....

    anyways not sure why we're talking about gears in an Inbred thread. here's mine cause i haven't posted it yet.... i've ridden her rigid and sissy, with a huge variety of handlebar configurations. the way she's pictured is my favorite setup no question. and my favorite bike to date.

    Last edited by ferday; 11-12-2010 at 10:51 PM.
    what would rainbow unicorn do?

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Members who have read this thread: 34

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •