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  1. #76
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    I ride a On One 456 frame 69er'd the on one steel fork will just about take a 29" wheel with the steerer tube that sticks out the bottom cut back, 16" frame, I'm 6'2" but like really short frames, gives loads of seat post out for comfort to, still running on a 70mm stem.

    It rides well heavy compared to the Alu frame before, but I can run pretty much any sized tire I want in the rear and it's cheap which is always a bonus.

    Mine needed a really long BB axle be warned, had to use a HT2 spacer with my old Square taper of the donar bike to stop chain hitting the frame.

    I've got 90mm's of spacers under the stem aswell to get a nice comfy sit up and beg position and stop it trashing my arms.

  2. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by shile
    I don't know anything about the new Inbreds. What are they coming out with as a replacement?
    The new ones will have slightly different tubing and cable routing, along with taperlock dropouts. Also, the 16" will finally have rack mounts (an odd and poorly documented omission on the current model).
    "People like GloyBoy are deaf. They are partisan, intellectually lazy & usually very angry." -Jaybo

  3. #78
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    Does anyone know if they will be changing the brake racks so that they are more compatible with the 160mm BB7s?

    EDIT:
    Emailed them yesterday and got a response this morning. They are coming out with a new model at the beginning of the year (spring for sales release) and it is supposed to fix some of the old issues, now with a removeable drop-out. Wondering if I should wait for the new one to come out or just pick up one from Unreal?? Talking with the guy, apparently the BB7 issues is really only seen on the smaller frames as the larger ones still contact the caliper but less than with the smaller frames (mainly the 16").
    Last edited by gregnash; 10-19-2010 at 03:07 PM.

  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash
    Does anyone know if they will be changing the brake racks so that they are more compatible with the 160mm BB7s?

    EDIT:
    Emailed them yesterday and got a response this morning. They are coming out with a new model at the beginning of the year (spring for sales release) and it is supposed to fix some of the old issues, now with a removeable drop-out. Wondering if I should wait for the new one to come out or just pick up one from Unreal?? Talking with the guy, apparently the BB7 issues is really only seen on the smaller frames as the larger ones still contact the caliper but less than with the smaller frames (mainly the 16").
    I am thinking about getting one right now. These frames have been around for quite some time and there no issues so it is safe to to get them. As far as I know some of the One One bikes did not pass EU CEN testing...

  5. #80
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    For those of you running gears - are you running into the problem of the wheel sliding in the dropout on hefty, technical climbs? I had to move my rear wheel all the way, butted up against the front of the drop-out to prevent wheel slippage. Even with my Salsa Skewers, it still moved. It's a little of a PITA to remove the rear wheel with the SLX derailleur, as well.

    BTW, I'm done with the drops. They are great for certain situations and very, very comfortable on shorter rides. Nothing against drops, but I think a standard riser suits me well. Some people think they look goofy - I still think they look sweet.

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  6. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dion
    For those of you running gears - are you running into the problem of the wheel sliding in the dropout on hefty, technical climbs? I had to move my rear wheel all the way, butted up against the front of the drop-out to prevent wheel slippage. Even with my Salsa Skewers, it still moved. It's a little of a PITA to remove the rear wheel with the SLX derailleur, as well.

    BTW, I'm done with the drops. They are great for certain situations and very, very comfortable on shorter rides. Nothing against drops, but I think a standard riser suits me well. Some people think they look goofy - I still think they look sweet.
    Nope, I've never had slippage. Shimano skewers were highly recommended by the SS guys because they clamp harder than any others. They don't seem to think to highly of skewers without the common exposed cam design, even boutique ones like Salsa. I got an XT skewer for the rear and it worked great.. no slipping in over a year of SS riding and a bit of geared riding mixed in too. I've since moved to a 10mm thru-bolt setup that hasn't slipped either.

    When running gears I've always moved the wheel to the front of the dropouts because i like just pushing the wheel in and clamping it down without worrying about alignment. Plus I prefer the feel with the shorter chainstay length. I'm curious about your reasons for preferring the wheel further back.

    Your bike always looked so classy with the drops; I'm sad to seem them go. Are you keeping the bar-ends and converting them to thumbies for your riser or converting to indexed shifting?

  7. #82
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    I had read somewhere that it was recommended to take the paint off the dropouts so that they would not slip. Has anyone done this?

  8. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    I've since moved to a 10mm thru-bolt setup that hasn't slipped either.

    When running gears I've always moved the wheel to the front of the dropouts because i like just pushing the wheel in and clamping it down without worrying about alignment. Plus I prefer the feel with the shorter chainstay length. I'm curious about your reasons for preferring the wheel further back.
    I'm doing the same, all is good.

  9. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    Nope, I've never had slippage. Shimano skewers were highly recommended by the SS guys because they clamp harder than any others. They don't seem to think to highly of skewers without the common exposed cam design, even boutique ones like Salsa. I got an XT skewer for the rear and it worked great.. no slipping in over a year of SS riding and a bit of geared riding mixed in too. I've since moved to a 10mm thru-bolt setup that hasn't slipped either.

    When running gears I've always moved the wheel to the front of the dropouts because i like just pushing the wheel in and clamping it down without worrying about alignment. Plus I prefer the feel with the shorter chainstay length. I'm curious about your reasons for preferring the wheel further back.

    Your bike always looked so classy with the drops; I'm sad to seem them go. Are you keeping the bar-ends and converting them to thumbies for your riser or converting to indexed shifting?
    Thanks, bro.

    The front DR had some stupid piece of plastic where the excess cable would sit that would rub the tire. A hacksaw and my bench de-burring tool fixed that one, then I was able to move the wheel back up. But there is no reason to be keeping the wheel back except to clear that stupid piece I had to hack off.

    I use the cheapo Falcon friction shifters on all my bikes, including my CX race bike AND my 26" XC bike I plan on racing next spring. I just love the old school friction, and how I can bang from the biggest cog to the smallest and vie-versa in one fell swoop. Plus, there's no real adjusting to do, which I never get right with index shifting.

    Even these bar end shifters are set up in friction mode.

  10. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dion
    I use the cheapo Falcon friction shifters on all my bikes, including my CX race bike AND my 26" XC bike I plan on racing next spring. I just love the old school friction, and how I can bang from the biggest cog to the smallest and vie-versa in one fell swoop. Plus, there's no real adjusting to do, which I never get right with index shifting.

    Even these bar end shifters are set up in friction mode.
    Cool, maybe you help me with a friction shifting question. I bought a pair of these similar looking SunRace shifters recently and when I tried them I had a hard time with the ergonomics of the things. Since the lever is fairly long and lever pivot is centered over the bar the lever was almost out of reach of my thumb when it was in the 1st position. Then because of how much the lever traveled around the shifter, at the far other end of it's travel it was unreachable there too without taking too much of my hand off the bars

    The pictures and videos I've seen of bar-ends on Paul Thumbies look like a much better position and a more reasonable amount of lever travel making them much easier to use. If only I could find something similar for a lot less money... but isn't that always the problem, haha. How do the Falcon shifters feel? Could I trouble you for a good picture of them installed?

  11. #86
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    Salsa slippage...

    [QUOTE=Dion]For those of you running gears - are you running into the problem of the wheel sliding in the dropout on hefty, technical climbs? I had to move my rear wheel all the way, butted up against the front of the drop-out to prevent wheel slippage. Even with my Salsa Skewers, it still moved. It's a little of a PITA to remove the rear wheel with the SLX derailleur, as well.

    I am running gears and used to just have some cheapo no name skewers and had absolutely no issues. I recently "upgraded" to a set of Salsa skewers and am having issues with the rear sliding/shifting. It seem to happen if I put a lot of torque on the pedals when climbing standing up or on an off camber turn at speed. Seems to shift no matter how tight I clamp the Salsa's.

  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    Cool, maybe you help me with a friction shifting question. I bought a pair of these similar looking SunRace shifters recently and when I tried them I had a hard time with the ergonomics of the things. Since the lever is fairly long and lever pivot is centered over the bar the lever was almost out of reach of my thumb when it was in the 1st position. Then because of how much the lever traveled around the shifter, at the far other end of it's travel it was unreachable there too without taking too much of my hand off the bars

    The pictures and videos I've seen of bar-ends on Paul Thumbies look like a much better position and a more reasonable amount of lever travel making them much easier to use. If only I could find something similar for a lot less money... but isn't that always the problem, haha. How do the Falcon shifters feel? Could I trouble you for a good picture of them installed?
    I think the term "thumb shifter" is not quite accurate. You actually do have to take your hand off the bar, but I have to say that you do get comfortable with it and it isn't that bad. What it DOES force you to do is to get into the correct gearing before you climb or descend - especially with the front gears. If I know the climb is going to be tough, I get into my small ring first and just dance in the rear cog (trying not to cross chain, though). If there's a lot of ups and downs, you find a gear that is fine with the descends, but still alows you to mash on the ups. In other words, it's like riding single-speed with the option to shift. You find yourself not shifting as much.

    If you're used to trigger shifters, the friction "thumbies" are wierd at first. Once you get it though, it's very nice to have a handle on shifting old school. It's like the difference between a regular old stick shift and using paddle shifters in a car.

    My CX bike is a 1X8 with a Paul Chain Keeper and it works fantastic.

    The Falcons are cheap, easily replaceable and repairable with basic hardware store stuff. $10 a pair, and they are lighter and more dependable than any high end index trigger shifter I've ever owned.

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  13. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dion
    I think the term "thumb shifter" is not quite accurate. You actually do have to take your hand off the bar, but I have to say that you do get comfortable with it and it isn't that bad. What it DOES force you to do is to get into the correct gearing before you climb or descend - especially with the front gears. If I know the climb is going to be tough, I get into my small ring first and just dance in the rear cog (trying not to cross chain, though). If there's a lot of ups and downs, you find a gear that is fine with the descends, but still alows you to mash on the ups. In other words, it's like riding single-speed with the option to shift. You find yourself not shifting as much.

    If you're used to trigger shifters, the friction "thumbies" are wierd at first. Once you get it though, it's very nice to have a handle on shifting old school. It's like the difference between a regular old stick shift and using paddle shifters in a car.

    My CX bike is a 1X8 with a Paul Chain Keeper and it works fantastic.

    The Falcons are cheap, easily replaceable and repairable with basic hardware store stuff. $10 a pair, and they are lighter and more dependable than any high end index trigger shifter I've ever owned.
    Thanks for the insight. I'll have to get my shifters back on the bike and spend more time playing around them

  14. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    The pictures and videos I've seen of bar-ends on Paul Thumbies look like a much better position and a more reasonable amount of lever travel making them much easier to use. If only I could find something similar for a lot less money... but isn't that always the problem, haha. How do the Falcon shifters feel? Could I trouble you for a good picture of them installed?

    SA has a barcon lever for their S3X three speed fixed hub. I bought that one for about 8 euro's and used a shimano 9 speed barcon as shift lever. Only trouble is that it is right side only.

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    http://www.flickr.com/photos/1001366...7624553341672/

  15. #90
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    Running Race King 2.2s on my Inbred I had to slide the rear wheel back for about 10 mm, the high sidewalls of the RK were scraping the FD. Luckily I had my chaintugs (left and right) from my SS set-up to get the wheel fixed solidly. When I told the guys from On One about the problem they said they'd never heard of it....

  16. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmx1
    Running Race King 2.2s on my Inbred I had to slide the rear wheel back for about 10 mm, the high sidewalls of the RK were scraping the FD. Luckily I had my chaintugs (left and right) from my SS set-up to get the wheel fixed solidly. When I told the guys from On One about the problem they said they'd never heard of it....
    So that's 3? of us that has experienced this problem? It's almost like you need to butt it up against the front of the dropout or use a chaintug. I actually like the wheel all the way moved forward, but that shouldn't be required.

  17. #92
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    How much wheel clearance do you lose when butting it all the way forward? I was looking at running the Ardent 2.25" all around or 2.4" up front and 2.25" in back. Would I hit with it move all the way forward?

  18. #93
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    the front derailleur clearance can definitely be tight with the wheel all the way forward, but some FD models have better clearance than others. Also, I believe cutting off the bottom-pull arm on a Shimano FD gives it a ton of room. I honestly haven't done any experimenting myself because when I've run gears its either been 1x9 with big tires or 2x9 with small race tires

  19. #94
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    My rear wheel is all the way up front in the dropout.
    With a Geax Suguaro 29x2.2 I have just enough room foor the FD (XT top pull downswing), but I had to saw off the pull down lever.
    Newer XT FD's (as of 2008?) have a little more tire clearence.
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  20. #95
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    Ok I have an XT FD-M770 FD, how do I tell if it is a dual-pull or top/bottom pull?

  21. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash
    Ok I have an XT FD-M770 FD, how do I tell if it is a dual-pull or top/bottom pull?
    M770 is dual-pull

  22. #97
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    Ok now I see how it does both... that is kinda nifty! I was wondering how the hell you did a bottom pull with it but I see in the tech doc now. So the question is, which is the best setup for the Inbred (more than likely will be getting the 19.5")

  23. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash
    Ok now I see how it does both... that is kinda nifty! I was wondering how the hell you did a bottom pull with it but I see in the tech doc now. So the question is, which is the best setup for the Inbred (more than likely will be getting the 19.5")
    A frame is designed for one or the other and can't really be converted. My older Inbred is top-pull, but from the notes about the new Inbred it looks like they might actually bottom-pull on the new 2ng generation frames they're listing

  24. #99
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    Talked to the guys at Unreal today and the ones they sell are 1st gens which are top pull according to them. Need to find out the 2nd gen is but should be good no matter what.. Picked up my XT Crank and XT BB today!! Getting excited for this bike to come together over the winter.

  25. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    Thanks for the insight. I'll have to get my shifters back on the bike and spend more time playing around them
    the real fun in friction/barcon shifters is the ability to ride your bike differently...you can dump massive amounts of gear instantly (even the whole stack if you giv'r). i really like it with 1x9, almost rides like an SS but with gear options....

    anyways not sure why we're talking about gears in an Inbred thread. here's mine cause i haven't posted it yet.... i've ridden her rigid and sissy, with a huge variety of handlebar configurations. the way she's pictured is my favorite setup no question. and my favorite bike to date.

    Last edited by ferday; 11-12-2010 at 10:51 PM.
    what would rainbow unicorn do?

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