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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by bagheera
    my girlz 16"

    Super Nice!! How much suspension on that fork? Your a good man!
    On-One ScandAl 29er
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  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by foxtrot
    Super Nice!! How much suspension on that fork? Your a good man!

    Thanks That's a 100mm Reba. She was interested in a full suspension 26'r. Since I was paying I bought the rrrrreal thing, she is SUPER stoked!!!! And of course the color is

  3. #53
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    I have that same frame arriving this week for my wife. She's stoked to have a purple bike. It's gonna be built up from the spare parts bin for the most part, cept for the fork, saddle, and meats.

  4. #54
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    Any of you know of a good way to cover up that inbred dude on the seat tube? My wife loves her Inbred (26"), but not fond of that dude. Maybe just a sticker will be the easiest.

  5. #55
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    I have a lightly used On One Superlight steel fork with a 7" steerer tube, if interested PM me.

  6. #56
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    Just finished it about 10 minutes ago

    The BB7 does fit just on release it hits against the frame so a frame saver of course fixed this. This was my first bike build up and took about 5hrs for me to do. I had to have the LBS press fit the headset and cut the Project 321 post (they gave me a great deal on everything, only charged for a headset install).

    The two reasons I decided to build it were the MK 2.4 rubbed on my Cannondale frame, and that it was raining.

    EDIT: Cranks are fixed!
    Last edited by Mr Pink57; 06-14-2010 at 02:22 PM.
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  7. #57
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    Hey, thought you were going to sell that frame? Glad you decided to build it up. Looks great. On my wife's, I just filed down that bolt a little bit. Frame saver is a good idea, but I'm assuming that multiple hits from the bolt would sheer right through it.

  8. #58
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    This was my first bike build up and took about 5hrs for me to do.
    Nice - but your cranks don't look right!

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clink
    Nice - but your cranks don't look right!
    LOL, maybe he's starting a new trend
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by p nut[B
    ]Hey, thought you were going to sell that frame?[/B] Glad you decided to build it up. Looks great. On my wife's, I just filed down that bolt a little bit. Frame saver is a good idea, but I'm assuming that multiple hits from the bolt would sheer right through it.
    Did not got much for buyers

    It probably will go through it but I will cross that bridge when I get there. I do have some hydro brakes I can put on also but I don't want to go through trouble of bleeding them right now.
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  11. #61
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    Front Derailleur

    Getting an Inbred 29er, I want to run 3x8, On-ones site says the derailleur clamp is 29.8, can't seem to find that size, do I need a shim?
    WTB: Bontrager Comp Fork & Syncros metal top cap

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrjustin007
    Getting an Inbred 29er, I want to run 3x8, On-ones site says the derailleur clamp is 29.8, can't seem to find that size, do I need a shim?
    Looks like the have two of the numbers on their website transposed. 29.8mm is the seat clamp size and 28.6mm is the front derailleur clamp size.

  13. #63
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    Thanks, that confused me. Makes it far easier to find a derailleur.
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  14. #64
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    On One has quite a few mistakes on their site (example: 26er Inbred says v-brake mount is removeable - but they don't come with v-brake mounts period). But at least they're good at making bike parts.

    Prices seem to have gone up a bit, as now it's $269 shipped from On One (compared to $250 shipped a few weeks ago).

  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by p nut
    Prices seem to have gone up a bit, as now it's $269 shipped from On One (compared to $250 shipped a few weeks ago).
    yep, the exchange rate is on the move back in the other direction now. I think their price in pounds hasn't changed

  16. #66
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    Hi, am getting an On One Inbred 29er and am wondering if I would be better served with an On One 29er carbon fork or an On One 26 inch carbon fork but running a 29 inch front tire ala the Ragley TD-1

    Some opinions please....

  17. #67
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    Wow...I'm really digging the rear caliper placement. Curious how much an XL frame weighs.
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  18. #68
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    For those running a front derailleur, what are you guys using to shim the derailleur clamp? Can't seem to find any shims for 28.6 to 34.9 clamp.

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by sankaman
    For those running a front derailleur, what are you guys using to shim the derailleur clamp? Can't seem to find any shims for 28.6 to 34.9 clamp.
    What brand/model did you get? My Shimano FDs have always come with the necessary shims.

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    What brand/model did you get? My Shimano FDs have always come with the necessary shims.
    I have an on one 456 and I'm using a shimano xt fd. I believe my fd only came with a shim for 30.6mm tube.

  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by sankaman
    I have an on one 456 and I'm using a shimano xt fd. I believe my fd only came with a shim for 30.6mm tube.
    interesting. Maybe they don't ship 28.6 clamps anymore because they are now less common? Just guessing

    Anyway, Shimano does sell the clamps separately

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    interesting. Maybe they don't ship 28.6 clamps anymore because they are now less common? Just guessing

    Anyway, Shimano does sell the clamps separately
    thanks for the link. My current setup is a PITA and ugly to look at.

  23. #73
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    Inbred 29er

    I have a Onone Ti 456 an ace bike. I really want to build up a 29er. I'm just of 6 ft so was thinking a 20 or 19.5 inch frame what do you reckon?

    Should I get an Inbred. should I wait to see what Onone are going to deliver with the carbon 29er and new breed inbred?

    I'm a bike addict!

  24. #74
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    I can say with complete confidence that you will love your Inbred. Anybody who owns one will agree - they are beautifully crafted and the do-it-all geometry is the shizzle. Steel, too? You (and by saying "you" I mean WE) will have these frames for 20+ years swapping out parts as they get bad. I'll ride my Inbred forever.

    I wish the purple was offered when I bought mine, though

  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by zarf1
    I have a Onone Ti 456 an ace bike. I really want to build up a 29er. I'm just of 6 ft so was thinking a 20 or 19.5 inch frame what do you reckon?

    Should I get an Inbred. should I wait to see what Onone are going to deliver with the carbon 29er and new breed inbred?
    If you're in the US, www.unrealcycles.com might have some 19.5 Inbreds. I'm 5-10 and the 18" is perfect so the next size up sounds like your size. Actually with a 100mm fork, the standover is a little high, but still ok.

    I don't know anything about the new Inbreds. What are they coming out with as a replacement?

    As far as the carbon, I'd wait another year or so and let them work any bugs and get some better graphic and color options. I think Unreal also has some ti 29ers left, but not sure on the size. Call Pete and ask him.

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  26. #76
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    I ride a On One 456 frame 69er'd the on one steel fork will just about take a 29" wheel with the steerer tube that sticks out the bottom cut back, 16" frame, I'm 6'2" but like really short frames, gives loads of seat post out for comfort to, still running on a 70mm stem.

    It rides well heavy compared to the Alu frame before, but I can run pretty much any sized tire I want in the rear and it's cheap which is always a bonus.

    Mine needed a really long BB axle be warned, had to use a HT2 spacer with my old Square taper of the donar bike to stop chain hitting the frame.

    I've got 90mm's of spacers under the stem aswell to get a nice comfy sit up and beg position and stop it trashing my arms.

  27. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by shile
    I don't know anything about the new Inbreds. What are they coming out with as a replacement?
    The new ones will have slightly different tubing and cable routing, along with taperlock dropouts. Also, the 16" will finally have rack mounts (an odd and poorly documented omission on the current model).
    "People like GloyBoy are deaf. They are partisan, intellectually lazy & usually very angry." -Jaybo

  28. #78
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    Does anyone know if they will be changing the brake racks so that they are more compatible with the 160mm BB7s?

    EDIT:
    Emailed them yesterday and got a response this morning. They are coming out with a new model at the beginning of the year (spring for sales release) and it is supposed to fix some of the old issues, now with a removeable drop-out. Wondering if I should wait for the new one to come out or just pick up one from Unreal?? Talking with the guy, apparently the BB7 issues is really only seen on the smaller frames as the larger ones still contact the caliper but less than with the smaller frames (mainly the 16").
    Last edited by gregnash; 10-19-2010 at 02:07 PM.

  29. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash
    Does anyone know if they will be changing the brake racks so that they are more compatible with the 160mm BB7s?

    EDIT:
    Emailed them yesterday and got a response this morning. They are coming out with a new model at the beginning of the year (spring for sales release) and it is supposed to fix some of the old issues, now with a removeable drop-out. Wondering if I should wait for the new one to come out or just pick up one from Unreal?? Talking with the guy, apparently the BB7 issues is really only seen on the smaller frames as the larger ones still contact the caliper but less than with the smaller frames (mainly the 16").
    I am thinking about getting one right now. These frames have been around for quite some time and there no issues so it is safe to to get them. As far as I know some of the One One bikes did not pass EU CEN testing...

  30. #80
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    For those of you running gears - are you running into the problem of the wheel sliding in the dropout on hefty, technical climbs? I had to move my rear wheel all the way, butted up against the front of the drop-out to prevent wheel slippage. Even with my Salsa Skewers, it still moved. It's a little of a PITA to remove the rear wheel with the SLX derailleur, as well.

    BTW, I'm done with the drops. They are great for certain situations and very, very comfortable on shorter rides. Nothing against drops, but I think a standard riser suits me well. Some people think they look goofy - I still think they look sweet.

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  31. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dion
    For those of you running gears - are you running into the problem of the wheel sliding in the dropout on hefty, technical climbs? I had to move my rear wheel all the way, butted up against the front of the drop-out to prevent wheel slippage. Even with my Salsa Skewers, it still moved. It's a little of a PITA to remove the rear wheel with the SLX derailleur, as well.

    BTW, I'm done with the drops. They are great for certain situations and very, very comfortable on shorter rides. Nothing against drops, but I think a standard riser suits me well. Some people think they look goofy - I still think they look sweet.
    Nope, I've never had slippage. Shimano skewers were highly recommended by the SS guys because they clamp harder than any others. They don't seem to think to highly of skewers without the common exposed cam design, even boutique ones like Salsa. I got an XT skewer for the rear and it worked great.. no slipping in over a year of SS riding and a bit of geared riding mixed in too. I've since moved to a 10mm thru-bolt setup that hasn't slipped either.

    When running gears I've always moved the wheel to the front of the dropouts because i like just pushing the wheel in and clamping it down without worrying about alignment. Plus I prefer the feel with the shorter chainstay length. I'm curious about your reasons for preferring the wheel further back.

    Your bike always looked so classy with the drops; I'm sad to seem them go. Are you keeping the bar-ends and converting them to thumbies for your riser or converting to indexed shifting?

  32. #82
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    I had read somewhere that it was recommended to take the paint off the dropouts so that they would not slip. Has anyone done this?

  33. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    I've since moved to a 10mm thru-bolt setup that hasn't slipped either.

    When running gears I've always moved the wheel to the front of the dropouts because i like just pushing the wheel in and clamping it down without worrying about alignment. Plus I prefer the feel with the shorter chainstay length. I'm curious about your reasons for preferring the wheel further back.
    I'm doing the same, all is good.

  34. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    Nope, I've never had slippage. Shimano skewers were highly recommended by the SS guys because they clamp harder than any others. They don't seem to think to highly of skewers without the common exposed cam design, even boutique ones like Salsa. I got an XT skewer for the rear and it worked great.. no slipping in over a year of SS riding and a bit of geared riding mixed in too. I've since moved to a 10mm thru-bolt setup that hasn't slipped either.

    When running gears I've always moved the wheel to the front of the dropouts because i like just pushing the wheel in and clamping it down without worrying about alignment. Plus I prefer the feel with the shorter chainstay length. I'm curious about your reasons for preferring the wheel further back.

    Your bike always looked so classy with the drops; I'm sad to seem them go. Are you keeping the bar-ends and converting them to thumbies for your riser or converting to indexed shifting?
    Thanks, bro.

    The front DR had some stupid piece of plastic where the excess cable would sit that would rub the tire. A hacksaw and my bench de-burring tool fixed that one, then I was able to move the wheel back up. But there is no reason to be keeping the wheel back except to clear that stupid piece I had to hack off.

    I use the cheapo Falcon friction shifters on all my bikes, including my CX race bike AND my 26" XC bike I plan on racing next spring. I just love the old school friction, and how I can bang from the biggest cog to the smallest and vie-versa in one fell swoop. Plus, there's no real adjusting to do, which I never get right with index shifting.

    Even these bar end shifters are set up in friction mode.

  35. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dion
    I use the cheapo Falcon friction shifters on all my bikes, including my CX race bike AND my 26" XC bike I plan on racing next spring. I just love the old school friction, and how I can bang from the biggest cog to the smallest and vie-versa in one fell swoop. Plus, there's no real adjusting to do, which I never get right with index shifting.

    Even these bar end shifters are set up in friction mode.
    Cool, maybe you help me with a friction shifting question. I bought a pair of these similar looking SunRace shifters recently and when I tried them I had a hard time with the ergonomics of the things. Since the lever is fairly long and lever pivot is centered over the bar the lever was almost out of reach of my thumb when it was in the 1st position. Then because of how much the lever traveled around the shifter, at the far other end of it's travel it was unreachable there too without taking too much of my hand off the bars

    The pictures and videos I've seen of bar-ends on Paul Thumbies look like a much better position and a more reasonable amount of lever travel making them much easier to use. If only I could find something similar for a lot less money... but isn't that always the problem, haha. How do the Falcon shifters feel? Could I trouble you for a good picture of them installed?

  36. #86
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    Salsa slippage...

    [QUOTE=Dion]For those of you running gears - are you running into the problem of the wheel sliding in the dropout on hefty, technical climbs? I had to move my rear wheel all the way, butted up against the front of the drop-out to prevent wheel slippage. Even with my Salsa Skewers, it still moved. It's a little of a PITA to remove the rear wheel with the SLX derailleur, as well.

    I am running gears and used to just have some cheapo no name skewers and had absolutely no issues. I recently "upgraded" to a set of Salsa skewers and am having issues with the rear sliding/shifting. It seem to happen if I put a lot of torque on the pedals when climbing standing up or on an off camber turn at speed. Seems to shift no matter how tight I clamp the Salsa's.

  37. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    Cool, maybe you help me with a friction shifting question. I bought a pair of these similar looking SunRace shifters recently and when I tried them I had a hard time with the ergonomics of the things. Since the lever is fairly long and lever pivot is centered over the bar the lever was almost out of reach of my thumb when it was in the 1st position. Then because of how much the lever traveled around the shifter, at the far other end of it's travel it was unreachable there too without taking too much of my hand off the bars

    The pictures and videos I've seen of bar-ends on Paul Thumbies look like a much better position and a more reasonable amount of lever travel making them much easier to use. If only I could find something similar for a lot less money... but isn't that always the problem, haha. How do the Falcon shifters feel? Could I trouble you for a good picture of them installed?
    I think the term "thumb shifter" is not quite accurate. You actually do have to take your hand off the bar, but I have to say that you do get comfortable with it and it isn't that bad. What it DOES force you to do is to get into the correct gearing before you climb or descend - especially with the front gears. If I know the climb is going to be tough, I get into my small ring first and just dance in the rear cog (trying not to cross chain, though). If there's a lot of ups and downs, you find a gear that is fine with the descends, but still alows you to mash on the ups. In other words, it's like riding single-speed with the option to shift. You find yourself not shifting as much.

    If you're used to trigger shifters, the friction "thumbies" are wierd at first. Once you get it though, it's very nice to have a handle on shifting old school. It's like the difference between a regular old stick shift and using paddle shifters in a car.

    My CX bike is a 1X8 with a Paul Chain Keeper and it works fantastic.

    The Falcons are cheap, easily replaceable and repairable with basic hardware store stuff. $10 a pair, and they are lighter and more dependable than any high end index trigger shifter I've ever owned.

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  38. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dion
    I think the term "thumb shifter" is not quite accurate. You actually do have to take your hand off the bar, but I have to say that you do get comfortable with it and it isn't that bad. What it DOES force you to do is to get into the correct gearing before you climb or descend - especially with the front gears. If I know the climb is going to be tough, I get into my small ring first and just dance in the rear cog (trying not to cross chain, though). If there's a lot of ups and downs, you find a gear that is fine with the descends, but still alows you to mash on the ups. In other words, it's like riding single-speed with the option to shift. You find yourself not shifting as much.

    If you're used to trigger shifters, the friction "thumbies" are wierd at first. Once you get it though, it's very nice to have a handle on shifting old school. It's like the difference between a regular old stick shift and using paddle shifters in a car.

    My CX bike is a 1X8 with a Paul Chain Keeper and it works fantastic.

    The Falcons are cheap, easily replaceable and repairable with basic hardware store stuff. $10 a pair, and they are lighter and more dependable than any high end index trigger shifter I've ever owned.
    Thanks for the insight. I'll have to get my shifters back on the bike and spend more time playing around them

  39. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    The pictures and videos I've seen of bar-ends on Paul Thumbies look like a much better position and a more reasonable amount of lever travel making them much easier to use. If only I could find something similar for a lot less money... but isn't that always the problem, haha. How do the Falcon shifters feel? Could I trouble you for a good picture of them installed?

    SA has a barcon lever for their S3X three speed fixed hub. I bought that one for about 8 euro's and used a shimano 9 speed barcon as shift lever. Only trouble is that it is right side only.

    Pics:

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/1001366...7624553341672/

  40. #90
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    Running Race King 2.2s on my Inbred I had to slide the rear wheel back for about 10 mm, the high sidewalls of the RK were scraping the FD. Luckily I had my chaintugs (left and right) from my SS set-up to get the wheel fixed solidly. When I told the guys from On One about the problem they said they'd never heard of it....

  41. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmx1
    Running Race King 2.2s on my Inbred I had to slide the rear wheel back for about 10 mm, the high sidewalls of the RK were scraping the FD. Luckily I had my chaintugs (left and right) from my SS set-up to get the wheel fixed solidly. When I told the guys from On One about the problem they said they'd never heard of it....
    So that's 3? of us that has experienced this problem? It's almost like you need to butt it up against the front of the dropout or use a chaintug. I actually like the wheel all the way moved forward, but that shouldn't be required.

  42. #92
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    How much wheel clearance do you lose when butting it all the way forward? I was looking at running the Ardent 2.25" all around or 2.4" up front and 2.25" in back. Would I hit with it move all the way forward?

  43. #93
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    the front derailleur clearance can definitely be tight with the wheel all the way forward, but some FD models have better clearance than others. Also, I believe cutting off the bottom-pull arm on a Shimano FD gives it a ton of room. I honestly haven't done any experimenting myself because when I've run gears its either been 1x9 with big tires or 2x9 with small race tires

  44. #94
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    My rear wheel is all the way up front in the dropout.
    With a Geax Suguaro 29x2.2 I have just enough room foor the FD (XT top pull downswing), but I had to saw off the pull down lever.
    Newer XT FD's (as of 2008?) have a little more tire clearence.
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  45. #95
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    Ok I have an XT FD-M770 FD, how do I tell if it is a dual-pull or top/bottom pull?

  46. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash
    Ok I have an XT FD-M770 FD, how do I tell if it is a dual-pull or top/bottom pull?
    M770 is dual-pull

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    Ok now I see how it does both... that is kinda nifty! I was wondering how the hell you did a bottom pull with it but I see in the tech doc now. So the question is, which is the best setup for the Inbred (more than likely will be getting the 19.5")

  48. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash
    Ok now I see how it does both... that is kinda nifty! I was wondering how the hell you did a bottom pull with it but I see in the tech doc now. So the question is, which is the best setup for the Inbred (more than likely will be getting the 19.5")
    A frame is designed for one or the other and can't really be converted. My older Inbred is top-pull, but from the notes about the new Inbred it looks like they might actually bottom-pull on the new 2ng generation frames they're listing

  49. #99
    Short-Change-Hero
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    Talked to the guys at Unreal today and the ones they sell are 1st gens which are top pull according to them. Need to find out the 2nd gen is but should be good no matter what.. Picked up my XT Crank and XT BB today!! Getting excited for this bike to come together over the winter.

  50. #100
    conjoinicorned
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    Thanks for the insight. I'll have to get my shifters back on the bike and spend more time playing around them
    the real fun in friction/barcon shifters is the ability to ride your bike differently...you can dump massive amounts of gear instantly (even the whole stack if you giv'r). i really like it with 1x9, almost rides like an SS but with gear options....

    anyways not sure why we're talking about gears in an Inbred thread. here's mine cause i haven't posted it yet.... i've ridden her rigid and sissy, with a huge variety of handlebar configurations. the way she's pictured is my favorite setup no question. and my favorite bike to date.

    Last edited by ferday; 11-12-2010 at 09:51 PM.
    what would rainbow unicorn do?

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