First, I know these kind of whoring build threads are mainly for the OP so I admittedly do this for my own satisfaction but just in case you're even mildly interested in converting your 456c to 650b wheels, maybe you'll be interested too. Or maybe you're just bored like I am at work.
Let me start off with the fact that I'm very happy with this bike build. But it wasn't an easy road to get here. Through a combination of bad luck and On-One US weak customer service, it took me nearly 2 months and lots of frustration to get a working frame to build (first one arrived damaged). I literally have a 2-page document logging in meticulous detail, every transaction/communication between On-One rep(s) and me regarding my situation. Why? I don't know - I guess I figured if didn't have a happy ending I'd share my story. The good news is my story had a (relatively) satisfactory ending.
Now before die-hard On-One fans and possibly On-One employees get upset, please let me say that I *do* understand it was unfortunate circumstances out of their control and I did get a feeling they were genuinely apologetic about the delays, but it was mainly the communication, or the lack thereof that was the most aggravating issue. Being in a CS based business for over a decade myself, I'm both empathetic yet blown away that it would even remotely be deemed acceptable by them.
OK - nuff with the boring stuff. How bout a some pics!
Here's the parts list & cost:
Frame: On-One Red/Black 456c: $420 + $20 shipping (shop.titusti)
Headset: On-One headset: $30 (shop.titusti)
Stem: FSA OS-115 Stem 100mm: $42 (ebay)
Handlebar: Sunline V1 OS 19mm Riser Handlebar, 711mm length: $30 (HnR)
Fork: Fox 32 F120 RLC 15mm, 120mm travel: $450 + $35 tax (JensonUSA)
Front Brake: Shimano SLX M666 IceTech + 180mm rotor: $100 + $15 tax&ship (bluesky)
Rear Brake: Shimano SLX M666 IceTech + 160mm rotor: $90 + $15 tax&ship (bluesky)
Crankset: 175mm FSA Comet MegaExo: $100 estimated (came /w my old motobecane bike)
Cassette: Sram PG-1070 11-36 10 speed: $73 (ebay)
Chain: Cutter 10 Speed Chain: $20 (HnR)
Shifter: Sram X9 10speed right-only: $56 (bikerbob)
Derailleur: Sram X9 rear 10speed: $80 +$7 ship (bikerbob)
Wheelset: Stan's Flows w/ 3.30 rear hub, 3.30 15mm front hub: $440 +25 ship (bikerbob)
Rear tire: Schwalbe Racing Ralph 650b 2.25" (Q-tube w/ sealant): $52 +10 ship (bikerbob)
Front tire: Kenda Nevegal 650b 2.35" (tubeless w/ sealant): $40 (JensonUSA)
Seatpost: Specialized Command Post (older gen) 30.9: $160 +10 ship (bikerbob)
Seatpost clamp: Thomson seatpost collar: $10 (Performance Bike)
Seat: Sette Flex X Saddle: $20 +$8 ship (Pricepoint)
Pedals: Wellgo MG1 pedals + Ti Spindles: $84 (ebay)
Cost to ship frame back to On-One: $12 (fedex)
Chainring: FSA DH 3mm chainring 34t: $24 (ebay)
Bashguard: FSA Facet Bashguard: $30 (amazon)
Chain management: Paul Chain Keeper BB mount: $42 (ebikestop)
Seatpost shim: Wheels Manufacturing Seatpost Shim 30.9 - 31.6: $16 +$3ship (Universal Cycles)
Paint Protection: 3M Clear Ure Protect Film: $28 (amazon)
Toe clip: Zefal "Cristophe" Mountain Bicycle Half Toe Clip $7 (amazon)
Holy OUCH! Nothing on that list cost more than $500 dollars yet the total cost broke 25 hundred!
Out of curiosity, I subtracted just the tax and shipping on each component that charged me and it only knocks off $148 making the total still $2426. Building a bike definitely cost more than just buying a fully built but at least everything on there, belongs there and doesn't immediately need to be replaced ...at least you hope.
The build: Building the bike was a pleasure. Surprisingly good tolerances (for such an affordable CF frame). BB threads/face were clean as hell and the BB easily threaded with my hands unlike my Moto Ti Fantom frame (which fought with me with the tool even when threaded correctly). Love the red anodized dropouts. Lots of options to route cables. Frame just looks good when up close and personal with it.
The ride: I've only taken it on one ride so far and almost immediately I knew I need to change the cockpit. Enough so that I had to change it on the field. The headtube is small...REALLY small. Usually I'm reversing my stem to lower the handlebar but not on the 456c! Since those pictures above, I have rearranged the stem spacers to stack 45mm spacers below the stem and flipped the stem up now! Immediately felt much better although looks a tad awkward with such a tall skinny steertube exposed. Also, I believe this bike begs for a shorter stem so I'll be shopping around for that as well.
The bike feels FAST. That's the first thing that came to my head once I hit my familiar XC'ish, tight but flowy single track. This could be because I've been exclusively using my tall, power-robbing, full-squish Jamis trail bike for a bit too long and this conclusion would be made going back to any hardtail (my old hardtail was a big ole 29er too) but Wow! Snappy, responsive, holds momentum well and is just plain fast! My old Moto Ti 29er hardtail was plenty fast and held momentum too but it definitely didn't feel nearly as responsive, snappy and manipulable as this frame. Stiff Carbon vs flexy Ti or ...size difference? ...perhaps a combination of both. Also, love love love the 456c slack HA. Not a fan of any HA steeper than 69*, even for XC duties!
The frame has a long'ish top tube allowing you to get away with a one size smaller seattube frame (this is a 16" while I normally ride a 17-18"). With tons of room under my legs, the bike feels seriously manipulable - a friggin' toy under my legs! The 650b tires raise the bike up nearly an inch so it had me playing with my new pedal strike distance - I feel like I'm getting away with something being able to pedal where I normally can't. I'm sure this is at a cost of having a slightly higher center of gravity in the corners but I haven't noticed... yet.
The Fox fit 32 RLC fork was never meant for bigger 650b wheels. The tire DOES strike the crown at full compression. However, in order to get it to occur, I have to purposely and willfully lift up and slam my front with all my weight to get it to rub. I'm sure I looked like an idiot in the parking lot, riding around lifting up and slamming my front over and over again, trying to get it to rub hard but I wanted to see how much contact it makes - does it slow the bike down when the tire contacts the arch? Worse, does it threaten to throw me off, over the handlebars? Thankfully, not even close. You definitely hear it the loud tire buzz, but it doesn't suddenly slow the bike down with any significant speed loss and toss you. It does chip off some paint under the arch though...
Gripes?: Perhaps a few. What's with that fugly white "splat" logo? What an eye sore on that beautiful red/black frame: This big ole white splat on the side of headtube. That same eye sore staring back at me with the On-One stem cap. It just looks... cheap. On-One might want to change their logo... or keep it dark and small. And why is the headtube so small? I don't even know if it's safe to stack so many spacers under the stem. It certainly looks ugly doing that. I suppose I can try and replace just the top of the headset with a taller one. Lastly, why's the seattube so slack? You get so much more power when you're more over the pedals while seated - It's almost like you're mimicking standing-and-pedaling. It's also hell on my knees to pedal so far back. I might have to flip my seatpost to get a more forward pedaling position.
These issues are minor to me though and I fully admit are personal preference. Maybe that splat looks good to some people and the small headtube allows greater flexibility for those who like to be in a roadie position while riding (Nino Schurter?). And I know there are people who actually refer a slack seattube angle and the seated pedal position it provides. I suppose you can't make everyone happy.
I have yet to ride it in more AM'ish territory but I am looking forward to it, perhaps this weekend I'll have a more well rounded assessment of this frame.
Oh and one more thing. As configured this bike weighed in at just a hair under 26lbs.
The only easy way I can see to knock off another couple pounds:
-Lose the dropper post (or a install lighter dropper post - these old spec' command posts aren't that light)
-Lighter seat (this sette saddle is weighty at about 350g but i do love it)
-Lighter crankset (this FSA one is a tank!)
-Lose the toe clips (with hardware it adds another 150g to your pedals)
-Lose the bashguard
-Lighter model front tire (and lose the tube in the rear)
That's about it, I suppose. It gets much more expensive to lighten it more beyond that.
Btw if you're wondering, those 650b 2.35" nevegal's weigh 712g
It's nice for once when a company doesn't understate the weight, right?
Thanks for reading and see ya on the trails.
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Thread: Nother 650b 456c
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