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  1. #1
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    Inbred 29 SS Build Advice

    My 21" Inbred 29 SS frame should be here next week. I'm initially building it up with extra parts I have on hand. I've been wrenching on my own bikes for a long time, but this will be my first build starting with a new frame, any tips or advice to ensure everything goes smoothly. In particular do I need to "prep" the head tube and BB? If so I'll let my LBS do it.

    Parts list:
    Manitou Tower Pro 120
    Chinese SS specific no-name wheels, ACS Claw Freewheel
    Bald Maxxis Crossmarks
    Race Face Atlas bars
    Bontrager stem and seatpost, Thomson clamp.
    Cane Creek 40 series Headset
    Truvativ Stylo cranks
    Really cheap Tekro cable discs
    Still need a BB (square taper)

    Should weigh about 40lbs

  2. #2
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    Inbred 29 SS Build Advice

    Good luck with your Inbred build. My first On One frame was an old sand colored slot-dropout. I just rebuilt it with an Alfine 8 rear wheel. I love this bike. It will see many more miles.

    A common hiccup to be aware is a fit issue with cable-pull brakes on frames that have the rear caliper mount in the back/inside of the chainstay/seatstay triangle. This position sometimes limits the throw of the caliper arm with a 160mm rotor, particularly on smaller frames.

    This cropped up when I switched my 20" slot dropout frame to BB7s with the Alfine conversion. To fix this problem, I set the cable tension with a slightly limited throw of the caliper arm. The brake works well, but I am not getting a full "bite" on the rotor (see photo below). A switch to a 180mm rotor would fix this (moves the caliper out away from the seatstay). This issue is well documented in previous threads and is easy to avoid.

    Everything else is real straight forward with these frames. Great geometry and a fun ride!


  3. #3
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    I frame savered mine and switched from BB7s to SLX hydros to solve the problem pointed out above. I did no facing or chasing and have had no issues in the last year and a half.
    Lone biker of the apocalypse.

  4. #4
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    Inbred 29 SS Build Advice

    Seems like people are all over the map with facing and chasing BBs and head tubes. Some guys do, but I have not on at least 7 On One frames I have built up. No issues as a result.

    I have sloshed linseed oil, motor oil, frame saver, etc. around the inside of my frames before assembly. Probably helps years down the road but it's rather messy. At least I'm not afraid to experiment

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the info. I have a 180mm rotor if I need it. I'm sure I will be upgrading parts on this bike. Looks like I may start with the brakes. I can't wait to ride this thing. I haven't been on a steel frame since the 90's and for once I could actually tell my wife the real price!

  6. #6
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    Inbred 29 SS Build Advice

    Just built up a 18" SS Ltd and used a 160 BB7 on the rear and it was a bit of work to get to work well. To get full engagement/bite on the brake I needed to run a half link with my gearing of 32x20 to get the wheel all the way forward (which I wanted anyway). Also, I had to remove the caliper to tighten the brake cable. Works great now. The bike climbs like a goat with the rear wheel slammed to boot. I bought the frame from member here that had the BB faced and chased and it built up very well. A lot of frame for the money once you work out the kinks.

  7. #7
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    Inbred 29 SS Build Advice

    I used an 180mm rotor with BB7s on my son's 26er Inbred, and it works great. I will probably put a 180mm rotor on the back of my slot-dropout Inbred.

  8. #8
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    I'm hoping my 21" frame has a little more room in the rear triangle. Still waiting for the brown truck to pull up...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by SS Hack View Post
    Just built up a 18" SS Ltd and used a 160 BB7 on the rear and it was a bit of work to get to work well. To get full engagement/bite on the brake I needed to run a half link with my gearing of 32x20 to get the wheel all the way forward (which I wanted anyway). Also, I had to remove the caliper to tighten the brake cable. Works great now. The bike climbs like a goat with the rear wheel slammed to boot. I bought the frame from member here that had the BB faced and chased and it built up very well. A lot of frame for the money once you work out the kinks.
    I built up a 19.5" recently after selling the above mentioned 18" to SSHack (let's see some pics!). Easy, straight forward frame to build up. I did have the BB and HT faced, although I'm not sure it was necessary. I live in a pretty humid area, so I used frame saver also. I also used a 1/2 link to shorten the chain stay length and get the chain tug to work properly (32x18 drivetrain). The wheel is in the first 1/3 of the slot. I measured the BB to be 67mm and had to use a spacer on the non-drive side of the BB.

    I've had a bit of an issue with my headset coming loose though (Cane Creek 10), and actually broke a bolt on the stem trying to keep it from loosening up. Not sure what's going on there....

    Its a fun bike and my first SS & 29er. I posted a picture in the SS forum if you want to see it. Good luck!

  10. #10
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    Inbred 29 SS Build Advice

    A note about Cane Creek 10 headsets, from my limited experience: One is on my 2013 Mukluk 3 and it is very tricky (nearly impossible) to find a good play/no play setting. It's either too tight or too loose. I know other Mukluk owners have upgraded to higher-grade/different bearing design CC headsets.

  11. #11
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    Inbred 29 SS Build Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by billystack View Post
    I built up a 19.5" recently after selling the above mentioned 18" to SSHack (let's see some pics!). Easy, straight forward frame to build up. I did have the BB and HT faced, although I'm not sure it was necessary. I live in a pretty humid area, so I used frame saver also. I also used a 1/2 link to shorten the chain stay length and get the chain tug to work properly (32x18 drivetrain). The wheel is in the first 1/3 of the slot. I measured the BB to be 67mm and had to use a spacer on the non-drive side of the BB.

    I've had a bit of an issue with my headset coming loose though (Cane Creek 10), and actually broke a bolt on the stem trying to keep it from loosening up. Not sure what's going on there....

    Its a fun bike and my first SS & 29er. I posted a picture in the SS forum if you want to see it. Good luck!
    When I get this thing semi finished I'll post some images. No headset issues with mine, GXP BB went on smoothly too with stock spacers. I had an Exotic carbon fork on for the first couple rides and boy does this thing climb like a goat, even with a crappy SB8 on the back. Now I've slapped a suspension fork on for kicks to see how it rides. It's a pretty saggy 120mm that should be changed to 100mm. It raised the front a bit, which I liked over the 465mm rigid. This frame rides a lot smoother than other cheap steel frames I've had including the Surly KM - which to me felt stuff and endo prone ... but I need really forgiving bikes to keep me alive. I nearly did an endo lifting the back wheel on the Monkey.

  12. #12
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    Thanks for all the tips. I just finished getting the bike together about 10 minutes ago. Still need to run brake cables, put on the chain and get everything adjusted. It looks like my mechanical brakes are going to work, but I am still going to upgrade to hydros soon. This frame looks really good in person. Nice welds and great paint for a $200 frame!

  13. #13
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    Can't wait to see pics Like the others mentioned,might have issue with 160mm rear rotor,a 180-185mm rotor works fin with BB7's tho (see pic)
    '11 Origin 8 700CX
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prp1 View Post
    I'm hoping my 21" frame has a little more room in the rear triangle. Still waiting for the brown truck to pull up...
    Yes, I'm sure.
    I had no problems with my 19.5" frame and BB7-160mm.
    (looking for pics...)
    Belgian beer and Scotch whisky.

  15. #15
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    Everything went together easily, no chasing, facing, or special frame prep required. The rear brake did take a little extra time to get just right. A set of hydros will be my next mod.

    This frame rides great. I didn't realize how harsh my old aluminum frame was.

    It's a little heavy, but considering the other frames on my list were all over $800 (and not much lighter), I'm using the money I saved to upgrade to some lighter components.

  16. #16
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    Sounds like a good plan,Brother
    '11 Origin 8 700CX
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  17. #17
    K3N
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    I don't mean to,hijack, but I've been thinking about getting a M frame to swap out my L. And This thread made me notice how the new frames all have the brake mount inside but my inbred has it on the outside of the rear triangle ?? Is this just an old frame?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Inbred 29 SS Build Advice-image.jpg  

    My other bike is a bike

  18. #18
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    Inbred 29 SS Build Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by K3N View Post
    I don't mean to,hijack, but I've been thinking about getting a M frame to swap out my L. And This thread made me notice how the new frames all have the brake mount inside but my inbred has it on the outside of the rear triangle ?? Is this just an old frame?
    Yes, newer ones have it inside the triangle.

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