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Thread: Dirty Disco

  1. #51
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    Thanks Mud.

  2. #52
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    Old School with a New School Twist

    [IMG]DSC04097[/IMG]

    DSC04410

    My 54cm, with a 1x10 set up and Sram TT500 shifter.
    Last edited by mudrock; 06-11-2013 at 01:45 PM.

  3. #53
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    got it to load, went to flickr
    Last edited by mudrock; 05-30-2012 at 07:13 PM.

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    qd, let me know if you did not get the FD roller and we will send you one.
    Thanks for the offer, but I ended up buying a new top pull Shimano CX70 FD.

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by qdusenberry View Post
    Thanks for the offer, but I ended up buying a new top pull Shimano CX70 FD.
    Nice, I had forgotten about the new Shimano CX components
    mtbtires.com
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  6. #56
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    Forgot to mention:

    Stan's ZTR Crest wheels
    Sram TT500 Barend shifter
    Rival RD
    FSA Energy Crank, 42t ring
    BB7 brakes, w. Cane Creek levers
    FSA post and cockpit
    Kenda hybrid 700x38 tires
    19.26 lbs.

    When I go back to my Stan Raven tires the weight should come down.
    Last edited by mudrock; 05-31-2012 at 11:30 PM.

  7. #57
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    I am really thinking about getting one. But I have a question about sizing. My road bike is a Ridley and the effective top tube is 54.5. The disco has a 547 or a 535. in the 54 or 52. what one should I go wit?

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by pulser View Post
    I am really thinking about getting one. But I have a question about sizing. My road bike is a Ridley and the effective top tube is 54.5. The disco has a 547 or a 535. in the 54 or 52. what one should I go wit?
    What stem do you have on the Ridley?
    I would go with the 54 at least, easy to put a shorter stem if needed and won't hurt you on a CX build.
    "There is no A-line"
    Quadzilla - On-One USA

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zen_Turtle View Post
    What stem do you have on the Ridley?
    I would go with the 54 at least, easy to put a shorter stem if needed and won't hurt you on a CX build.
    Its a 90mm stem. I guess I could run a 100.

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by pulser View Post
    I am really thinking about getting one. But I have a question about sizing. My road bike is a Ridley and the effective top tube is 54.5. The disco has a 547 or a 535. in the 54 or 52. what one should I go wit?
    My road bike size is a 55 top tube. The 54 DD fits me fine. The DD has a 74 seat angle in that size, so you may have to set your saddle back more than on your Ridley. But riding cross I want my center of gravity farther forward anyway.

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudrock View Post
    My road bike size is a 55 top tube. The 54 DD fits me fine. The DD has a 74 seat angle in that size, so you may have to set your saddle back more than on your Ridley. But riding cross I want my center of gravity farther forward anyway.
    I will have my fitter take a look at it for me and see what he thinks.

  12. #62
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    This bike is so sexy for the price. I want to sell my gary fisher presidio frame/fork/ and tektro euro x brakes and race tubulars and get this bike and a nice set of stans wheels


    Need to have now!
    Raised in a Chicken-Coop by Chickens

  13. #63
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    Can a 140mm rear disc be run on this frame?

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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Can a 140mm rear disc be run on this frame?
    If I had to guess I would say no. It doesn't look like the frame is designed to fit adapters in the back. I could be wrong. A 160mm rotor weighs like 20 grams more


    On an unrelated note, I ordered one on Friday along with a carbon expander plug, headset, and seatpost clamp.

    Gonna swap the most of the parts from my current cross bike. Sold my carbon tubbies to fund the build.

    Here is what it will be.
    56 disco with a couple decals
    Bb7 roads
    2009 SRAM force groupo. (essentially rival with carbon crank)
    Shimano cx70 fd
    Selle italian slr
    Time allium pedals
    3t arx team 110 stem
    42cm salsa cowbell 2
    Blacked out for the most part.

    Wheels will be Stan's iron cross(when I can afford them)
    For now, I'm going to pull a set of cheap 29er wheels off one of my shops rental bikes. It's gonna be stout for a few weeks!

    Maybe some pink thrown in... I race for a team benefitting the save the tatas foundation.

    Sheepo
    Raised in a Chicken-Coop by Chickens

  15. #65
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    It's not the weight so much as it's
    A: my 29er race wheels all have 140 rear discs.
    B: A 160 may be too much brake with a cross tire. I run 35 Maxxi Raze tires in short track races....even with a 140 disc, it's too easy to get the rear tire to chatter or lock in race situations with hdyro brakes. And the BB7's I've tried have less modulation...either on or off.

    I plan on using the DD as B bike it's really muddy or icy at cross races. And as a dirt road / winter / rain road bike. I have a 16 lb Colnago C50 cross that is my A bike for racing.

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    It's not the weight so much as it's
    A: my 29er race wheels all have 140 rear discs.
    B: A 160 may be too much brake with a cross tire. I run 35 Maxxi Raze tires in short track races....even with a 140 disc, it's too easy to get the rear tire to chatter or lock in race situations with hdyro brakes. And the BB7's I've tried have less modulation...either on or off.

    I plan on using the DD as B bike it's really muddy or icy at cross races. And as a dirt road / winter / rain road bike. I have a 16 lb Colnago C50 cross that is my A bike for racing.
    The DD is 160mm minimum rear.

    BB7s can be setup for better modulation. The adjustability is one of their advantages over hydros. You can get almost any feel you want.

    For more modulation, instead of setting the inner (fixed) pad as close to the rotor as possible, turn the knob out a click or two. Then adjust the outer pad for the lever contact point. Gives more progressive bite and the braking is easier to feather.

    And you do not need the lever to feel "hard" to have good braking. Let the pad contact point be fairly close to the bar. Having your fingers closer in increases your ability to modulate.

    I use the BB7 Road with road STI levers, 185/160 rotors on most of my bikes and tires as narrow as 23mm. Plenty of power and modulation, and I tune the brakes to the tires/conditions with just a few clicks of the pad adjustor knobs. Basically de-tune them for narrow tires and ramp up the power for the big meats.
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  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    For more modulation, instead of setting the inner (fixed) pad as close to the rotor as possible, turn the knob out a click or two. Then adjust the outer pad for the lever contact point. Gives more progressive bite and the braking is easier to feather.
    OK, so this way, you are basically bending the rotor a bit. According to your experience, does that have a negative effect on pad wear?

    To anyone buying a DD: Better cut the big downtube decals to a seperate left / right side that clears the bottle cage and cable mounts.

    They are a one piece sticker, so I thought I'd try to apply it over the bottle cage mounts and cut them out later. Not possible without awful wrinkling...

    Thanks Planet-X US for offering a DD decal sheet by the way. No thanks for Px UK for not doing this, resulting in me paying $30 for postage for a $13 decal sheet.

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeroenK View Post
    OK, so this way, you are basically bending the rotor a bit. According to your experience, does that have a negative effect on pad wear?
    It only takes a click or two to have the affect. Change in pad ware is minor.

    Most of the time I keep the inner pad close and adjust the feel with the outer pad
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  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    It only takes a click or two to have the affect. Change in pad ware is minor.

    Most of the time I keep the inner pad close and adjust the feel with the outer pad
    Well, it depends... that one last ride in crazy muddy gritty conditions left a mark.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Dirty Disco-535384_391137254243945_378457427_n.jpg  

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  20. #70
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    My new ride! Got to ride it yesterday and it is amazing! Super stiff and racey! Opposite end of the spectrum from my gary fisher presidio! This bike just feels fast!

    Want some carbon wheels but there is nothing on the market that is semi deep, tubeless, a touch wider, and disk brake. Im considering some chineese carbon xc wheels until Mercury releases their tubeless carbon disk brake wheel next year.

    Here are some pics with loaner wheels-
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    peter sagan
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  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheepo5669 View Post
    Want some carbon wheels but there is nothing on the market that is semi deep, tubeless, a touch wider, and disk brake. Im considering some chineese carbon xc wheels until Mercury releases their tubeless carbon disk brake wheel next year.
    Is "semi" less than "50" - I guess it might but - however I'm very happy riding these in high winds on road, and our UK cross riders are loving them.

    Planet X Clydesdale Disc Pro Carbon 50/50 Wheelset / 24F 24R / Tubular / PX lines / Shimano/SRAM

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by brant View Post
    Is "semi" less than "50" - I guess it might but - however I'm very happy riding these in high winds on road, and our UK cross riders are loving them.

    Planet X Clydesdale Disc Pro Carbon 50/50 Wheelset / 24F 24R / Tubular / PX lines / Shimano/SRAM
    Those look nice but they are tubular. I dont really want to train on a tubular. I like tubeless because I can throw a tube in if I puncture.

    Whats the rim width and wheel weight?
    Raised in a Chicken-Coop by Chickens

  23. #73
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    This is mine, built it myself and I'm lovin it!

    54 sized frame with Shimano 105 shifters and rearmech, cx70 crank and frontmech, Thomson post, clamp and stem, salsa cowbell.
    The wheels are XT hubs with some old mavic cxp33 rims, I had layin around. I'm thinking abouting replacing them with some of those Chinese plastic hoops.

    Had some flat black decals made for the bike because the original white ones were a little bit "loud" for me. Really like how they turned out






  24. #74
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    Sorry folks but another "what frame size to go with" question here. 5'11, 32.5inseam, longer torso & arms

    Currently own 58cm Surly Long Trucker with 90stem a smidge overstretched in the hoods but flexibility allows with no problems. 3.5in seatpost exposed

    Salsa Fargo size Lg running a 115stem & 7.5in seatpost exposed


    Just don't know what size to go with comparing geometries of current bike. Want some seat post exposure for bikepacking seatbag. Won't be using this for CX racing, but for gravel grinding, light touring bikpacking style, commuting etc. Any info would be great. Sweet rigs up here. Can't wait to throw a build together.......Thanks
    Last edited by surly73; 09-09-2012 at 09:00 AM.

  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by surly73 View Post
    Sorry folks but another "what frame size to go with" question here. 5'11, 32.5inseam, longer torso & arms

    Currently own 58cm Surly Long Trucker with 90stem a smidge overstretched in the hoods but flexibility allows with no problems. 3.5in seatpost exposed

    Salsa Fargo size Lg running a 115stem & 7.5in seatpost exposed


    Just don't know what size to go with comparing geometries of current bike. Want some seat post exposure for bikepacking seatbag. Won't be using this for CX racing, but for gravel grinding, light touring bikpacking style, commuting etc. Any info would be great. Sweet rigs up here. Can't wait to throw a build together.......Thanks
    Doing a quick check of the geo charts, a 56cm (large) Dirty Disco would fit slightly smaller than your current bikes and a 58 (XL) would be a bit larger.

    Currently out of stock of both sizes.

    We have a shipment of 'cross frames arriving in ~ 3 weeks.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

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