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Thread: Dirty Disco

  1. #51
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    Thanks Mud.

  2. #52
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    Old School with a New School Twist



    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/alexmurdock/8430691807/" title="DSC04410 by alexmurdock, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8232/8430691807_2222ff3cde.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSC04410"></a>

    My 54cm, with a 1x10 set up and Sram TT500 shifter.
    Last edited by mudrock; 06-11-2013 at 01:45 PM.

  3. #53
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    got it to load, went to flickr
    Last edited by mudrock; 05-30-2012 at 07:13 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    qd, let me know if you did not get the FD roller and we will send you one.
    Thanks for the offer, but I ended up buying a new top pull Shimano CX70 FD.

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by qdusenberry View Post
    Thanks for the offer, but I ended up buying a new top pull Shimano CX70 FD.
    Nice, I had forgotten about the new Shimano CX components
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    Forgot to mention:

    Stan's ZTR Crest wheels
    Sram TT500 Barend shifter
    Rival RD
    FSA Energy Crank, 42t ring
    BB7 brakes, w. Cane Creek levers
    FSA post and cockpit
    Kenda hybrid 700x38 tires
    19.26 lbs.

    When I go back to my Stan Raven tires the weight should come down.
    Last edited by mudrock; 05-31-2012 at 11:30 PM.

  7. #57
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    I am really thinking about getting one. But I have a question about sizing. My road bike is a Ridley and the effective top tube is 54.5. The disco has a 547 or a 535. in the 54 or 52. what one should I go wit?

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by pulser View Post
    I am really thinking about getting one. But I have a question about sizing. My road bike is a Ridley and the effective top tube is 54.5. The disco has a 547 or a 535. in the 54 or 52. what one should I go wit?
    What stem do you have on the Ridley?
    I would go with the 54 at least, easy to put a shorter stem if needed and won't hurt you on a CX build.
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  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zen_Turtle View Post
    What stem do you have on the Ridley?
    I would go with the 54 at least, easy to put a shorter stem if needed and won't hurt you on a CX build.
    Its a 90mm stem. I guess I could run a 100.

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by pulser View Post
    I am really thinking about getting one. But I have a question about sizing. My road bike is a Ridley and the effective top tube is 54.5. The disco has a 547 or a 535. in the 54 or 52. what one should I go wit?
    My road bike size is a 55 top tube. The 54 DD fits me fine. The DD has a 74 seat angle in that size, so you may have to set your saddle back more than on your Ridley. But riding cross I want my center of gravity farther forward anyway.

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudrock View Post
    My road bike size is a 55 top tube. The 54 DD fits me fine. The DD has a 74 seat angle in that size, so you may have to set your saddle back more than on your Ridley. But riding cross I want my center of gravity farther forward anyway.
    I will have my fitter take a look at it for me and see what he thinks.

  12. #62
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    This bike is so sexy for the price. I want to sell my gary fisher presidio frame/fork/ and tektro euro x brakes and race tubulars and get this bike and a nice set of stans wheels


    Need to have now!
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  13. #63
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    Can a 140mm rear disc be run on this frame?

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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Can a 140mm rear disc be run on this frame?
    If I had to guess I would say no. It doesn't look like the frame is designed to fit adapters in the back. I could be wrong. A 160mm rotor weighs like 20 grams more


    On an unrelated note, I ordered one on Friday along with a carbon expander plug, headset, and seatpost clamp.

    Gonna swap the most of the parts from my current cross bike. Sold my carbon tubbies to fund the build.

    Here is what it will be.
    56 disco with a couple decals
    Bb7 roads
    2009 SRAM force groupo. (essentially rival with carbon crank)
    Shimano cx70 fd
    Selle italian slr
    Time allium pedals
    3t arx team 110 stem
    42cm salsa cowbell 2
    Blacked out for the most part.

    Wheels will be Stan's iron cross(when I can afford them)
    For now, I'm going to pull a set of cheap 29er wheels off one of my shops rental bikes. It's gonna be stout for a few weeks!

    Maybe some pink thrown in... I race for a team benefitting the save the tatas foundation.

    Sheepo
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  15. #65
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    It's not the weight so much as it's
    A: my 29er race wheels all have 140 rear discs.
    B: A 160 may be too much brake with a cross tire. I run 35 Maxxi Raze tires in short track races....even with a 140 disc, it's too easy to get the rear tire to chatter or lock in race situations with hdyro brakes. And the BB7's I've tried have less modulation...either on or off.

    I plan on using the DD as B bike it's really muddy or icy at cross races. And as a dirt road / winter / rain road bike. I have a 16 lb Colnago C50 cross that is my A bike for racing.

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    It's not the weight so much as it's
    A: my 29er race wheels all have 140 rear discs.
    B: A 160 may be too much brake with a cross tire. I run 35 Maxxi Raze tires in short track races....even with a 140 disc, it's too easy to get the rear tire to chatter or lock in race situations with hdyro brakes. And the BB7's I've tried have less modulation...either on or off.

    I plan on using the DD as B bike it's really muddy or icy at cross races. And as a dirt road / winter / rain road bike. I have a 16 lb Colnago C50 cross that is my A bike for racing.
    The DD is 160mm minimum rear.

    BB7s can be setup for better modulation. The adjustability is one of their advantages over hydros. You can get almost any feel you want.

    For more modulation, instead of setting the inner (fixed) pad as close to the rotor as possible, turn the knob out a click or two. Then adjust the outer pad for the lever contact point. Gives more progressive bite and the braking is easier to feather.

    And you do not need the lever to feel "hard" to have good braking. Let the pad contact point be fairly close to the bar. Having your fingers closer in increases your ability to modulate.

    I use the BB7 Road with road STI levers, 185/160 rotors on most of my bikes and tires as narrow as 23mm. Plenty of power and modulation, and I tune the brakes to the tires/conditions with just a few clicks of the pad adjustor knobs. Basically de-tune them for narrow tires and ramp up the power for the big meats.
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  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    For more modulation, instead of setting the inner (fixed) pad as close to the rotor as possible, turn the knob out a click or two. Then adjust the outer pad for the lever contact point. Gives more progressive bite and the braking is easier to feather.
    OK, so this way, you are basically bending the rotor a bit. According to your experience, does that have a negative effect on pad wear?

    To anyone buying a DD: Better cut the big downtube decals to a seperate left / right side that clears the bottle cage and cable mounts.

    They are a one piece sticker, so I thought I'd try to apply it over the bottle cage mounts and cut them out later. Not possible without awful wrinkling...

    Thanks Planet-X US for offering a DD decal sheet by the way. No thanks for Px UK for not doing this, resulting in me paying $30 for postage for a $13 decal sheet.

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeroenK View Post
    OK, so this way, you are basically bending the rotor a bit. According to your experience, does that have a negative effect on pad wear?
    It only takes a click or two to have the affect. Change in pad ware is minor.

    Most of the time I keep the inner pad close and adjust the feel with the outer pad
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  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    It only takes a click or two to have the affect. Change in pad ware is minor.

    Most of the time I keep the inner pad close and adjust the feel with the outer pad
    Well, it depends... that one last ride in crazy muddy gritty conditions left a mark.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Dirty Disco-535384_391137254243945_378457427_n.jpg  

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    My new ride! Got to ride it yesterday and it is amazing! Super stiff and racey! Opposite end of the spectrum from my gary fisher presidio! This bike just feels fast!

    Want some carbon wheels but there is nothing on the market that is semi deep, tubeless, a touch wider, and disk brake. Im considering some chineese carbon xc wheels until Mercury releases their tubeless carbon disk brake wheel next year.

    Here are some pics with loaner wheels-
    " width="549">
    " width="549">
    " width="549">
    " width="549">
    " width="549">
    " width="549">
    peter sagan
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  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheepo5669 View Post
    Want some carbon wheels but there is nothing on the market that is semi deep, tubeless, a touch wider, and disk brake. Im considering some chineese carbon xc wheels until Mercury releases their tubeless carbon disk brake wheel next year.
    Is "semi" less than "50" - I guess it might but - however I'm very happy riding these in high winds on road, and our UK cross riders are loving them.

    Planet X Clydesdale Disc Pro Carbon 50/50 Wheelset / 24F 24R / Tubular / PX lines / Shimano/SRAM

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by brant View Post
    Is "semi" less than "50" - I guess it might but - however I'm very happy riding these in high winds on road, and our UK cross riders are loving them.

    Planet X Clydesdale Disc Pro Carbon 50/50 Wheelset / 24F 24R / Tubular / PX lines / Shimano/SRAM
    Those look nice but they are tubular. I dont really want to train on a tubular. I like tubeless because I can throw a tube in if I puncture.

    Whats the rim width and wheel weight?
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  23. #73
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    This is mine, built it myself and I'm lovin it!

    54 sized frame with Shimano 105 shifters and rearmech, cx70 crank and frontmech, Thomson post, clamp and stem, salsa cowbell.
    The wheels are XT hubs with some old mavic cxp33 rims, I had layin around. I'm thinking abouting replacing them with some of those Chinese plastic hoops.

    Had some flat black decals made for the bike because the original white ones were a little bit "loud" for me. Really like how they turned out






  24. #74
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    Sorry folks but another "what frame size to go with" question here. 5'11, 32.5inseam, longer torso & arms

    Currently own 58cm Surly Long Trucker with 90stem a smidge overstretched in the hoods but flexibility allows with no problems. 3.5in seatpost exposed

    Salsa Fargo size Lg running a 115stem & 7.5in seatpost exposed


    Just don't know what size to go with comparing geometries of current bike. Want some seat post exposure for bikepacking seatbag. Won't be using this for CX racing, but for gravel grinding, light touring bikpacking style, commuting etc. Any info would be great. Sweet rigs up here. Can't wait to throw a build together.......Thanks
    Last edited by surly73; 09-09-2012 at 09:00 AM.

  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by surly73 View Post
    Sorry folks but another "what frame size to go with" question here. 5'11, 32.5inseam, longer torso & arms

    Currently own 58cm Surly Long Trucker with 90stem a smidge overstretched in the hoods but flexibility allows with no problems. 3.5in seatpost exposed

    Salsa Fargo size Lg running a 115stem & 7.5in seatpost exposed


    Just don't know what size to go with comparing geometries of current bike. Want some seat post exposure for bikepacking seatbag. Won't be using this for CX racing, but for gravel grinding, light touring bikpacking style, commuting etc. Any info would be great. Sweet rigs up here. Can't wait to throw a build together.......Thanks
    Doing a quick check of the geo charts, a 56cm (large) Dirty Disco would fit slightly smaller than your current bikes and a 58 (XL) would be a bit larger.

    Currently out of stock of both sizes.

    We have a shipment of 'cross frames arriving in ~ 3 weeks.
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  26. #76
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    Hey Tyliquila,

    Those black decals look great, who made them for you? I'd like some for the DD I'm building.

    Thanks!



    This is mine, built it myself and I'm lovin it!

    54 sized frame with Shimano 105 shifters and rearmech, cx70 crank and frontmech, Thomson post, clamp and stem, salsa cowbell.
    The wheels are XT hubs with some old mavic cxp33 rims, I had layin around. I'm thinking abouting replacing them with some of those Chinese plastic hoops.

    Had some flat black decals made for the bike because the original white ones were a little bit "loud" for me. Really like how they turned out

  27. #77
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    I see that they are out of stock in everything but Smalls. Any idea when big boy sizes will be back in stock?
    2009 Fuji Tahoe Pro 29er
    1982 Fuji Supreme
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  28. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trooper46 View Post
    I see that they are out of stock in everything but Smalls. Any idea when big boy sizes will be back in stock?
    We should have more in a few weeks
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  29. #79
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    Any of you current Dirty Disco owners have a satisfactory fender set-up? I know it's possible to fudge together a fender setup on nearly any bike, but the DD seems not to have a drilled fork crown or seat stay bridge, which makes it difficult. Workarounds?

    I'm so close to ordering this frameset, but will need good fenders. It will be a 'cross race bike for 1.5 months and a rain/commuter for the next 9...

  30. #80
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    Anyone rolling the TRP Hywires yet, or are they still vaporware/unobtanium?
    @pinkrobeyyc
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  31. #81
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    Nice bike, just wondering if you have toe overlap with this frame.

  32. #82
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    Dirty Disco

    I just finished building my Dirty Disco. I think it is an awesome disc cyclocross for the money. I wanted to find a frame that closely matched to my 54 sized Madone geometry. The 54 Dirty Disco fit the bill. The only big difference is 10 mm longer top tube and slight slacker steering angle. The Dirty Disco also has a longer wheelbase which is a big welcome.

    I'm impressed with the ride quality it has. It feels silky smooth over rough roads and gravel roads. It must be the combination of the carbon frame and the 34mm tires that I am running on the bike. I have no toe overlap on the Dirty Disco with 34 tires. I always did have toe overlap on other similar sized bikes.

    I have a few minor issues with the frame. I ride with my heels in. My right heel sometimes rubs the rear chain stay tube. I thought it must be the way the chain stay tube is shaped to clear the wider 135mm hub. What I found out that my crankset is not centered on the frame. The bottom bracket shell does not have any offset. I have checked all my other road and cyclocross bikes and all of them have a offset of approx 2.5 mm to the drive side. The crankset is 1/4 inch off center to the left. I am using two washer on the right pedal spindle to remedy the heel/chainstay rubbing. I am thinking of using bottom bracket spacer or crankset spindle washer to shift the crankset a bit to the drive side.

    My other issue is where the brake cable mount is placed on the chain stays. It takes up some clearance if I want to run fatter tires. It takes up about 1/8 inch. It is placed on the top. I think it should have been placed on the sides unless this would weaken chain stay structurally.

    With those minor issues, I am still having a blast on this bike. I am sure those are a non-issue to most.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Dirty Disco-img_6997.jpg  

    Dirty Disco-img_7003.jpg  

    Dirty Disco-img_7005.jpg  


  33. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    We should have more in a few weeks
    Hey shiggy, 2 questions.

    Is the frame sale officially over? If so, how long is the wait until the next one?
    Any changes on the new frames coming in or just a new run of the current setup?

    Thanks.

  34. #84
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    Here's mine just after I got it:-


    Disco ! Yeah baby ! by Chocolatebike1, on Flickr


    On One Dirty Disco by Chocolatebike1, on Flickr

    And here it is during and after an overnight ride along Hadrian's Wall:-


    12-09-29 Carlisle-Newcastle Disco Baby by Chocolatebike1, on Flickr


    12-09-29 Carlisle-Newcastle Tyne bridges by Chocolatebike1, on Flickr

    It's my first carbon bike and I think it's fantastic. I bought the frame and fork as a stop-gap to use the running gear from my broken Ti bike. I'm getting a new Ti frame under warranty but I'm not sure that it will do anything better than the Disco.
    The guards are old style Race Blade XLs with the addition of extension pieces from my old Crud-Catcher Road Racers. The CC RR piece behind the down tube is fantastic.
    I'm doing a 200k Audax on the Disco on Saturday.
    Bring it on !

    My only gripe:_
    Frame, fork and headset from Planet X UK- 699.99GBP
    Frame and fork from Planet X USA- 549USD (~340GBP). That's an expensive headset.

    ETA a further picture. You can see the clearance with 24mm tyres:-


    12-09-29 Carlisle-Newcastle Disco Tyne by Chocolatebike1, on Flickr


    .
    Last edited by Chocolatebike; 10-02-2012 at 12:14 PM.

  35. #85
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    Max tire size?

    Sorry if I missed it but what is the max tire size?

  36. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdg View Post
    Sorry if I missed it but what is the max tire size?
    I believe they say 38mm. But I dont know if that is with mud clearance or without. I can measure with my vernier calipers when im back at the shop.
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    I measure 50mm gap in the fork. I have 38mm tires on mine now, and plenty of space up front, but that's about all will fit between the chainstays.

  38. #88
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    Thanks for the info all.

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    Dirty Disco headset

    I am looking to buy Dirty Disco frameset from Titus USA but they are out of Dirty Disco headset, so questions please:

    Will this be compatible? Wiggle | FSA Orbit C-40 ACB Black 1 1/8 Aheadset | Headsets
    or this Wiggle | FSA Orbit C-40 ACB (48mm) Black 1 1/8 Aheadset | Headsets
    or this Wiggle | FSA Orbit CF-40 Industrial Headset | Headsets

    I can buy one from On-One UK but will cost twice as much as any of the above 3 (will be last option)

    Many thanks.

  40. #90
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    Hi Chocolatebike.Just purchased a XL DD myself. I was very interested in your recent pictures especially of the Hadrian's Wall Cycle route - Newcastle end. Can I ask what seat bag were you using? Is it something from USA or is it a Carradice? It would fit well on my XL version. Adrian

  41. #91
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    It is a Carradice, an SQR Tour. This one:- SQR Tour saddle bag

    I'm very pleased with it, it holds enough for a few days B&B touring.
    I also bought an extra mount so I can move the bag between bikes.


    .

  42. #92
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    Dirty Disco

    Thanks for that info. I know of the bag but never seen one before, now that I have seen it in action will definetly get one. Intrigued also to know what tyres size do you use for road. Did you mention a 24 mm size are they Contis? I am using the tyres I have acquired over the years ie an old set of Marathon Racer 32mm but looking at poss Schwalbe Ultremo ZX or Durano plus to purchase. Adrian

  43. #93
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    The tyres are Vittoria Pave SGs, the green tread is just visible on the last photo.
    All of the running gear came off my Ti bike when the frame cracked; the Disco is really just a stand-in until I get a warranty replacement for the Ti frame.
    When that arrives, I might get a little more creative with the Disco's tyres; I'm a big fan of Marathon Supremes so I might put some 28mm versions of those on it. 28mm Ultremo ZXs are another alternative.
    That's unless I decide to put some actual cross type tyres on it !

    .

  44. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by mttklmhifi1 View Post

    I have a few minor issues with the frame. I ride with my heels in. My right heel sometimes rubs the rear chain stay tube.
    My other issue is where the brake cable mount is placed on the chain stays. It takes up some clearance if I want to run fatter tires. It takes up about 1/8 inch. It is placed on the top. I think it should have been placed on the sides unless this would weaken chain stay structurally.

    With those minor issues, I am still having a blast on this bike. I am sure those are a non-issue to most.
    I used to ride with my heels in, which makes your knees stick out at the top of the stroke. Then I, after a fitting, realized I was compensating for having my feet locked into my pedals without varus shims, or "flatfooted." Now that my feet are shimmed with wedges under my cleats, my feet point straight ahead, and my legs are in line with pedals throughout the stroke.

    Varus wedges - Road Bike, Cycling Forums

    To compensate for the lack of wedges, I was pointing toes out to avoid stress on my knees.

    Re. the brake cable clip, they must be riveted by hand: mine doesn't do that.

  45. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudrock View Post
    I used to ride with my heels in, which makes your knees stick out at the top of the stroke. Then I, after a fitting, realized I was compensating for having my feet locked into my pedals without varus shims, or "flatfooted." Now that my feet are shimmed with wedges under my cleats, my feet point straight ahead, and my legs are in line with pedals throughout the stroke.

    Varus wedges - Road Bike, Cycling Forums

    To compensate for the lack of wedges, I was pointing toes out to avoid stress on my knees.

    Re. the brake cable clip, they must be riveted by hand: mine doesn't do that.
    Iím the opposite. My knees used to bang the top tube and my right heel rubs the crankarm before being fitted with soles/shims. I have slightly higher than Medium arch. I use superfeet soles to support my arch and prevent arch collapse at the bottom stroke. I have been called a duck because my toes point out. I have tried two varus shims on right shoes and one varus shim on the left. They make my feet point out straight but place my knees too outward. I have been using one varus shim on the right shoe and flat shim on the left. My heels are slightly in but no rubbing or pain. Knees pedal in straight lines. This setup works perfect for all my other bikes until the Dirty Disco bike. I have moved the FSA bottom bracket crush washer from non-drive side to the drive side. This eliminated any heel/chainstay rubbing.

  46. #96
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    I wonder if it is okay to drill out a drain hole in the bottom bracket. My Dirty Disco is getting filled with water after riding in the rain.

    I use my Dirty Disco for rain and gravel rides. I noticed the bike was getting heavier but didnít think anything of it until I hanged my bike by its front wheel. Water was pouring out of the seatpost. Should I somehow caulk the rail clamp mount where the water enters or just drill a drain hole in the bottom bracket?

  47. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by mttklmhifi1 View Post
    I wonder if it is okay to drill out a drain hole in the bottom bracket. My Dirty Disco is getting filled with water after riding in the rain.

    I use my Dirty Disco for rain and gravel rides. I noticed the bike was getting heavier but didnít think anything of it until I hanged my bike by its front wheel. Water was pouring out of the seatpost. Should I somehow caulk the rail clamp mount where the water enters or just drill a drain hole in the bottom bracket?
    Good thing itís not a steel frameÖ as for cutting/drilling cabron fibre, Iím not the guy to ask.
    QUOTE from MTBR.COM: You have given Brewtality too much Reputation in the last 24 hours, try again later.

  48. #98
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    Planet Bike Speedez Hybrid fenders + Dirty Disco = happy rider

    Quote Originally Posted by TwoWheelMan View Post
    Any of you current Dirty Disco owners have a satisfactory fender set-up? I know it's possible to fudge together a fender setup on nearly any bike, but the DD seems not to have a drilled fork crown or seat stay bridge, which makes it difficult. Workarounds?

    I'm so close to ordering this frameset, but will need good fenders. It will be a 'cross race bike for 1.5 months and a rain/commuter for the next 9...
    I use the Planet Bike Speedez Hybrid on my DD...I love the coverage and adjustability. I've used these fenders on my last three commuter bikes (two with disc brakes, one with mini-v.)

  49. #99
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  50. #100
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    Hey Shiggy,
    Can you get these frames? I don't know what size I need, I'm 5'9" with average proportions. It's going to be a road bike with bullhorn bars.
    Thanks,
    Shawn

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