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  1. #1
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    C456 Chainring Clearance

    So I'm building up my first bike, i'ts been pretty fun so far. However, I am a little worried by the chainring clearance. I put the SRAM x7 2x10 crankset on with 42T big ring and 28T little ring, it looks like there's about 1-2mm of clearance between the ring and the chainstay.

    Is that enough? Should I just buy the 39T and 26T ring? Do I have any other options?

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    1-2mm sounds a little tight. Can you get pics? I would think that a 42/28 should work fine, is it possible you left out a spacer or something from the BB?
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  3. #3
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    Yea, I'll get pics up in a second.

    As you probably know, the BB is 73mm so I didn't think spacers were required, there weren't any spacers in the box anyways.

  4. #4
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    I've read quite a few people have had the same issue with 2x10 setups

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by lee p View Post
    I've read quite a few people have had the same issue with 2x10 setups
    Is the issue just in general, or for the 456 specifically?

    I guess I can really only do two things, try and see what happens, if it rubs I'll have to get the smaller rings...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by kbrodie View Post
    Yea, I'll get pics up in a second.

    As you probably know, the BB is 73mm so I didn't think spacers were required, there weren't any spacers in the box anyways.
    You sure? The 3x9 SLX cranks need one 2.5mm spacer on the chainring side with the 73mm BB. With a 68mm BB, three of those are needed.

  7. #7
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    You could try throwing a spacer in anyways.
    I've got an extra spacer in one of my single speed bikes to improve the chainline and it doesn't seem to cause any problems.

  8. #8
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    Positive, no spacers required. They're only used on 68mm BB.

  9. #9
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    That pic you posted looks okay. I think you have more than 1-2mm of space, I would not worry about it. If it rubs though you need to do something about it. Carbon is not like aluminum, you can do some serious damage if it is rubbing.
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  10. #10
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    I've always fit one spacer on the drive side of 73mm anyway so I would do that, I've read on a few forums though of people finding it tight with the c456 and 2x10, go on one of the bigger British forums and do a search as lots of people seem to be running c456 over there

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by lee p View Post
    I've always fit one spacer on the drive side of 73mm anyway so I would do that
    SRAM cranks don't work like that - putting a spacer on the drive-side will have ZERO effect (it won't move anything....anywhere). The only way to get the chainring further out would be to remove material from the face of the non-drive side shell - and I probably wouldn't recommend that!
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoahColorado View Post
    SRAM cranks don't work like that - putting a spacer on the drive-side will have ZERO effect (it won't move anything....anywhere). The only way to get the chainring further out would be to remove material from the face of the non-drive side shell - and I probably wouldn't recommend that!
    seems to be the consensus with the GXP cranksets, looks like my only option is to get some 39 and 26T chainrings for like $90.

    Any idea of the difference in radii b/w the 39 and 42T rings, I took a rough estimate by guessing the width of one T to be around 1cm (actually i measured), so the circumference would be about 39cm. So it would be smaller by about 3/pi cm. or about 0.9 cm. Which would probably give me about 5-7mm clearance instead of the 1-2 mm I have now.

    Oh well, thanks for the quick responses, I'll post picks when it's done. It's kind of a frankenbike b/c I just bought parts I could find good deals on. It's yellow and blue and has an embarrassingly long stem with a huge 150mm fork. It's kind of an oxymoron.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kbrodie View Post
    It's yellow and blue and has an embarrassingly long stem with a huge 150mm fork. It's kind of an oxymoron.
    Please post a picture of your bike when its complete. The yellow frame must be looking good. Btw. 150mm stem seems to be quite long for the 456C. I run mine with a 40mm stem (130mm fork / 650b wheels) and I love it. 60mm stem felt too long.

  14. #14
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    Lol no, the fork is a sektor 150mm. I'm a little disappointed though, I just saw the $300 Revelation on competitive cyclist, oh well. I want to put the spacers in to drop it to 130mm, but the manual makes it seem pretty complicated, so I'll have to make do.

    The stem is 105mm, I didn't realize how long it was when I made the purchase. Eventually, when I scrounge up some dough I will buy a different stem. I was thinking of going with 70mm, but maybe that's too long? My limbs are pretty long, so I'll have to wait and see how stretched out I feel.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by kbrodie View Post
    Lol no, the fork is a sektor 150mm. I'm a little disappointed though, I just saw the $300 Revelation on competitive cyclist, oh well. I want to put the spacers in to drop it to 130mm, but the manual makes it seem pretty complicated, so I'll have to make do.

    The stem is 105mm, I didn't realize how long it was when I made the purchase. Eventually, when I scrounge up some dough I will buy a different stem. I was thinking of going with 70mm, but maybe that's too long? My limbs are pretty long, so I'll have to wait and see how stretched out I feel.
    My bad, I blame the 15 miles I just rode for my poor reading focus. I dare not recommend a specific stem length, my torso is short and my arms are even shorter so a short stem works for me, but when you look at the On one site, they recommend 40-60mm stems with most of the 456C frames. On-One Carbon 456 Un-Decaled Frame

  16. #16
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    Yea, I've noticed. I don't have wheels on yet, but I have the saddle, fork and bars on. I tried kind of squatting down into the position and honestly didn't feel stretched at all, we'll see how it feels when I get it all together and make the necessary changes.

    Hope the ride went well. Any particular stem brands/models you recommend. What's the difference between a $30-50 stem and a $100 stem. I feel like as long as nothing comes loose or flexes and it's not a pig a cheaper stem would be fine.

  17. #17
    All That is Man
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    The 2012 RaceFace Ride stems are cheap/light and come in short lengths. The big difference will be weight/strength and overall quality. The fancy ones say they're 'stiff'. I'm not sure how that translates to a stem. I've never experienced a flimsy stem. I wouldn't go any more expensive than an Easton Haven or RaceFace Turbine. I just ordered a 70mm RF Ride stem and a 750mm wide FUNN Fatboy bar for my 456c (20" frame), I'm 6'-0" with a short torso, but I like a long TT and bars level with the seat and I do mostly AM/XC riding, no real DH.
    John

  18. #18
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    +1 on the Race Face stems. I ride with a 25.4 handlebar so my choices are very limited, but below is a 60mm Race Face Ride which works just fine. I found it on sale under $20.



    I switched since to a 40mm NC-17 S-Pro. It was one of a few options for 25.4 bars and it was deeply discounted, too.
    Last edited by StiHacka; 05-08-2012 at 11:10 AM.

  19. #19
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    Darn, wish I'd seen this earlier. I just bought a Pro FRS stem this morning, in white.


    Went to get the brakes today from the LBS. Last time I was in there they had a set of 2011 Elixir CR's and he said $250 (maybe he meant each, I thought he meant for the set). I went in there today to pick them up and they said $400, then $300. I told them I'd rather go with some SLX and not worry about bleeding them every week.

    So now it's time for brakes, it seems that the SLX M666s are the way to go, reliable and good stopping power. I guess, I'd have to get some rotors and maybe adapters too. Anyone have other brake suggestions and or rotor suggestions?

  20. #20
    All That is Man
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    Yeah, SLX is the way to go. For rotors, I'd go cheap (Alligators) or go Icetech. Youcan get the SLX brakes and Icetech RT-67 rotors for under $300 online.
    John

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    Quote Originally Posted by Zero Signal View Post
    Yeah, SLX is the way to go. For rotors, I'd go cheap (Alligators) or go Icetech. Youcan get the SLX brakes and Icetech RT-67 rotors for under $300 online.
    Any links? What about adapters for the SLX, the front is post mount and the rear is IS. I think I'd be fine with 160mm for the type of stuff I'll be doing, if not, I can make the necessary changes later.

    Here is the cheap but risky option...AVID ELIXER CR Pair Hydraulic Disc Brakeset Brake Set Red 160mm F + R NEW: 348493 Random Bike Parts

    $180 for the whole set.

  22. #22
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    I priced that from Universal Cycles
    John

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by kbrodie View Post
    Any links? What about adapters for the SLX, the front is post mount and the rear is IS. I think I'd be fine with 160mm for the type of stuff I'll be doing, if not, I can make the necessary changes later.
    The SLX brakes should come with all the mounting hardware. Btw. the 456C will likely make you want to ride more aggressively than "the usual stuff you have been doing so far". I would strongly recommend considering a 180mm rotor in the front / 160mm in the rear, that is what I did after several dozens of miles with 160/160.

  24. #24
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    OK, cool I was looking at universal, b/c that's where I can get the chainrings too. Unfortunately, the RT-67 don't come in 6 bolt, are there adapters or are there any cheap rotors I can get from universal as well?

  25. #25
    All That is Man
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    The Alligator rotors from Pricepoint are pretty cheap, about $15. Yeah the RT-67s are centerlock and the non centerlock ones are about double the price. I don't know of any adapters for CL rotors to 6-bolt hubs.
    John

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