BB7 rear won't fit my Inbred 29er swapout

[loginhater]

There is not enough clearance for the arm to move completely. Am I the only one having this problem? This picture is with the 160 mount. I tried a 140 mount and it still won't fit. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[1niceride]

How about a low profile bolt..or make one..

[Leopold Porkstacker]

I have the same problem on my non-swapout horizontal dropout Inbred 29er with the Avid BB7 caliper. I think the only solution would be to up the rear rotor size to a 180/185mm and move the caliper forward a bit… or not be so frugal and get hydraulics… although I SUCK at bleeding hydraulic systems.

[grandsalmon]

I would first go look for a typical hex head bolt, high grade so you can go with the least tall head (lower profile)


.

[rkevans]

If you're not going to convert to single-speed, you simply need an "On-One Swapout Replaceable Dropout / B2 / Geared / Disc Side Outer".

On-One CNC Anodized Swap-Out

I've never seen them on the US site. EDIT: I'm wrong. They're available from the US store now.

[Slash5]

Going 180 is supposed to solve the problem.
I just took a hex bolt and ground the head down thin, worked fine for me.

[loginhater]

Thanks for the suggestions everyone. Remounted it with a185 adapter and it cleared fine.

[waffleBeast]

I had this issue and bought a set of SLX hydros as a solution and am glad I did. Fantastic brakes, zero maintenance and nary a peep out them.

[eugenemtbing]

I would add that my XT hydros are worth every penny. No issues, very good smooth braking. Have then on 2 On One's, although the BB7s on my kids' Inbreds work well and are a good value. I also used a 185 rotor and adapter on one of them in the rear, on a 16" 26er frame.

[MrBaker]

I have the same issue on my med C456. Except going up to 180mm rotor didn't exactly fix the problem. I got it working, but my brake is grabby as all hell. I imagine a 203mm might work.

I know that the SLX brake will work for sure, but I wanted to keep the hydros on bikes I actually enjoy and not just on the girlfriend machine.

[thasingletrackmastah]

160 should fit, 'cause you don't need the whole stroke of the BB7.
You can see the cable is slack, just tighten it a bit, just enough so the bolt doesn't touch the seatstay.
[img]http://forums.mtbr.com/attachments/one/729529d1349836990-bb7-rear-wont-fit-my-inbred-29er-swapout-cimg2449.jpg[/img

[divernick]

I have the Inbred 29er SS that has track ends.

It had Formula RX brakes and they worked fine with regards to clearance.

I sold the Formulas and bought some new Shimano Deores and the caliper was contacting the frame on the chainstay.

I said "to hell with it" and went 180mm front and back. No issues and loads of smooth braking.

[StiHacka]

The solution to this problem is simple - ask On one / Titus to replace your current swapout with a different one that mounts the caliper behind the seatstay. I am not talking about the SS one - they have a different design that mounts the caliper outside of the rear triangle.

[gregnash]

I know this used to be an issue with the small frames but thought brant had fixed it.
Can always shoot shiggy a line and see what he has to say.

[Slash5]

Yes it's still a problem. Worse on 26ers and small frames. I had to frig around with my large 29er Inbreds to get them to work.
Shiggy isn't with OnOne anymore.

[gregnash]

Wow seriously? I contacted him not to long ago about a bike for my brother. He must have left just recently (hopefully under good circumstances)

[BuntyMan]

I have a slot dropout Inbred 29er, size 18".
I use the road BB7 (160mm discs) and I encountered the same problem -actually on both a 16" and a 18" frame- , solved with a low-profile hex head bolt.

[SS Hack]

I have a slot dropout Inbred 29er, size 18".
I use the road BB7 (160mm discs) and I encountered the same problem -actually on both a 16" and a 18" frame- , solved with a low-profile hex head bolt.

Where'd you get the bolt? Thanks.

[BuntyMan]

LBS.
the bolt needed to be cut, but nothing major!

[Slash5]

I took a standard hex head bolt out of my junk box and cut the head down to about half height on my lathe.
You could do the same by chucking it in a drill and running it against a grinder or Dremel.

[fotooutdoors]

I got a moderately low profile torx bolt from McMaster Carr. Not as low as a button head, but lower than the stock. Only issue is that you can't get in at the bolt without removing the caliber, which is easiest if you remove the wheel. Not a huge deal, but it is definitely something that should have been seen up-front, as BB7's are pretty standard fare on mountain bikes, and especially budget builds, which On-One Frames lend themselves to.

[SS Hack]

I got a moderately low profile torx bolt from McMaster Carr. Not as low as a button head, but lower than the stock. Only issue is that you can't get in at the bolt without removing the caliber, which is easiest if you remove the wheel. Not a huge deal, but it is definitely something that should have been seen up-front, as BB7's are pretty standard fare on mountain bikes, and especially budget builds, which On-One Frames lend themselves to.

Was this with the 160 rotor?

[BuntyMan]

yes, 160 rotor on 16" frames (but with 18" too).

especially important if you plan to run SS, that way you won't be able to tension the chain completely!

[SS Hack]

My plan is to run a 180mm rotor with BB7s on the LTD SS frame in the 18" size, so hopefully that'll work.

[BuntyMan]

go for it. you'll love it.
I must take some piccies of my bike... maybe this weekend!