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Thread: 456 Evo II

  1. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by TampaDave View Post


    "Ketchup and Mustard." 456 evo ii rigid 69er.
    16" frame
    OS Bikes fork, 535mm AC, 50mm offset
    Pacenti DL31 rims, BHS hubs
    XT 165mm cranks w/ Cromag 32t cr
    Zee 10spd rd
    BB7 brakes, speed dial levers
    Thomson setback post, Brooks Cambium seat

    Still kinda messing around with front tire, stem and bars. That 2.35 Ikon out back is the bomb, totally the right tire for this bike.

    Not a terrible way to go rigid. However, knowing what I know now, I probably would have gone blunt 35 rims f&r, 650b front, On-One MKM carbon fork 450/50. Still gets you at the same basic geo as running a 26x26 with a 120mm fork, but your trail numbers get down into the 70s. Might try it someday.
    Cool set up! do you mean 435mm AC on that OS Bikes fork though? 535mm would be REALLy Tall.

  2. #152
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    ^TY. Yes the fork is 435! My teeny little legs wouldn't touch the ground.

    Nice fork, not too heavy, very comfy on the trail.

    Trail numbers are in the upper 90's. Handling is light enough, it just wants to run wide in turns a little bit. Gotta keep an eye on it. "We like you please" indeed. OTOH I reduced my wheelbase by ~14mm. Something to be said for that.

    Haven't given up on the "69er" concept totally, in fact I acquired one of the last new Trek 69er ss frames, they are on closeout.

    Also hope to build up a Carver 96er later this year, I know you have or had one. That'll be a B6er most likely. I know it'll take 650b out back (looks like the Trek might, too) but I think we need some beef back there. Would rather have the extra volume than another quarter-inch of radius.

    Really loving On-One these days. Once I'm done with the Trek, I plan to build up an Inbred as a B6er. The 456 is a great frame but the Inbred build is for a petite woman and that looks like a nice frame for someone who doesn't want too far a reach to the bars.

  3. #153
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    Untitled by tk_1971, on Flickr

    Latest pic. No problems climbing, but had a pinch flat going down (aggressively) this past weekend. Going to convert to budget tubeless and trying again.
    Last edited by tk1971; 05-13-2016 at 12:35 PM. Reason: updated the picture as of 4/2016

  4. #154
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    456 Evo II-1043995d1453244288-all-mountain-hardtail-thread-post-up-yours-20160119_142306.jpg
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    Here's mine.

    XL 456evo2
    Lyrik rc2dh lowered to 130mm
    stans flows
    2x9 XT with sram ratio gripshift
    XT brakes
    Gravity dropper 5" seatpost from 2008
    3" riser bars and a sparkly red schwinn saddle

    I've had it a little over 2 years and it's so so rad. The fork is a fairly new addition (off my big bike) and it's incredible here. No hand fatigue on trails you'd typically ride a DH bike.
    I like cheap stuff that works great and is very sturdy.

  5. #155
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    ^ Nice bike. Like the red and that saddle is the shiznit.

  6. #156
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    Here's my recent winter build. many parts were pre-existing in my parts bins, so many so I only needed a frame, headset, and crankset.

    Project: FrankenBike

    456 Evo2 18"

    bars used to be white. I sanded and sanded and sanded and sanded then polished
    I also really dig making custom headcaps, so there you go.

    456 Evo II-fullsizerender-2.jpg

    456 Evo II-fullsizerender.jpg

  7. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    Project: FrankenBike

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    That's AWESOME! How did you do that?

    The flaming 36 is pretty sweet too.
    I like cheap stuff that works great and is very sturdy.

  8. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottzg View Post
    That's AWESOME! How did you do that?

    The flaming 36 is pretty sweet too.
    Thanks! I work up the design myself then submit the art through the custom services at KustomCaps - Laser-Etched Custom Bicycle Headset Caps in 10 anodized colors. Your bike wants one.

    The fire 36 I re-painted years ago.

  9. #159
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    Re: bars, I've been thinking about polishing up some anodized bars. Was gonna try the Easy-Off method, those look nice though, maybe sanding is the way to go huh

  10. #160
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    I've used easy-off to strip anodizing off. Works great but still requires sanding to polish 'em up. My bars were painted so I just did sanding. A lot.

  11. #161
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    Well here she is, after reading this forum i just had to have one.
    Mine is custom built but also a very close replica of the factory deore model.
    forks are 140 mm recon airs that were a lucky find on ebay. I cant recomend on-one smorgasbord tyres enough.
    one one wheels and bars and grips.
    My brother has one too but with marzochi forks.
    love the look of yours bad andy! nice custom work.

  12. #162
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    Absolutely love this bike, it took me a long while to get what i wanted. I had a 90's univega but that was way too flexible then i rode a mates inbred and thought that i just needed a more modern bike so i bought a genesis latitude but that was too stiff then when a evo 2 frame came along at a great price i just had to have it.
    thankyou to everyone that posted on here its been a great help.

  13. #163
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    I just finished rebuilding my 26er HT onto a 456 Evo II frame over the weekend with a Rockshox Sektor 150mm fork. Only had it out for 1 easy ride so far, but I'm loving the feel of it.

    It climbs well, pedals nicely, feels very stable under braking and on descents and is comfy to ride. And when I lower the fork to 120mm, it sharpens up a bit, climbs even better and pedals like a rocket on flat ground, yet is still fairly relaxed (especially coming from my old frame with 10 year old XC geometery which was much steeper up front and had a much shorter wheelbase).

    Basically, it feels like a great all around bike. From what I've felt so far, I'd say that chances are, anything that it's not happy doing is something I'm not happy doing either.

    456 Evo II-onfnfal.jpg

  14. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post

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    That is a LOT of accessories. What's up with the ron jeremy stem and the slammed forward saddle?
    I like cheap stuff that works great and is very sturdy.

  15. #165
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottzg View Post
    That is a LOT of accessories. What's up with the ron jeremy stem and the slammed forward saddle?
    The saddle is actually just forward of centered on the rails. I had it all the way back to get a good fit on the previous frame (was a shorter frame and I have a long torso) and it made climbing suck, as I had to practically lay on the bars to keep the front wheel down. Hasn't been an issue so far with that placement, but I do need to experiment a little more with position over my next couple of rides to see what keeps my legs happiest.

    Stem is a 60mm. Kinda chunky, but it's one I had lying around, so I figured I might as well use it and see how I like the fit / feel of the bike before buying a lighter one of possibly a different size.

    Accessories-wise, pretty much the only "extra" is the rack. It's on there because it gets used some and I'm too lazy to take it off when I'm not using it (plus, it makes a good rear fender).

    EDIT: After I got home from work, I experimented a bit with saddle position. Ended up moving it back about an inch to find the point where my legs feel good and line up well with the pedals.
    Last edited by comptiger5000; 08-08-2016 at 02:13 PM.

  16. #166
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    Is there any online shops stateside to buy one of these frames?

  17. #167
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    No, go to Planet X, shipping is a little pricey but the frames are really affordable.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  18. #168
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    Upset

    Yesterday I found this nice crack in the seat stay of my 2014 456EvoII. I'm a bit disappointed, I thought that a 2,7kg steel frame was sturdy enough not to be worried about cracks. In this case it's clear that some kind of reicforcement like other bikes have would have prevented this crack.

    456 Evo II-456-crack.jpg
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    A pessimist is an experienced optimist

  19. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pableras View Post
    Yesterday I found this nice crack in the seat stay of my 2014 456EvoII. I'm a bit disappointed, I thought that a 2,7kg steel frame was sturdy enough not to be worried about cracks. In this case it's clear that some kind of reicforcement like other bikes have would have prevented this crack.

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    Crappie deal man....I wish I saw this before I placed my order lastnight for one of these frames. Are they going to cover it?

    Also has anyone tried a tapered fork?

  20. #170
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtsimaras View Post
    Also has anyone tried a tapered fork?
    Tapered fork in an Evo II is a no go. It's a 34mm head tube, so no space for anything other than 1 1/8 straight steerer.

    If you want a tapered fork, get the 45650b with the bigger head tube. It could still be built as a 26 if desired. I kinda wish I'd gone that route, but I'm happy with what I ended up doing with the Evo II, so...

  21. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtsimaras View Post
    Crappie deal man....I wish I saw this before I placed my order lastnight for one of these frames. Are they going to cover it?

    Also has anyone tried a tapered fork?
    The frame is over 2 years old, so the warranty has already expired, I didn't even tried honestly.

    Don't be worried because the frame is pretty strong, however I would avoid doing hops on the rear wheel, because I think this is what generaated the crack (amateur trials rider here).
    A pessimist is an experienced optimist

  22. #172
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    I guess braking while moving backward would stress right there... seems like a good guess re- trials.
    I like cheap stuff that works great and is very sturdy.

  23. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
    Tapered fork in an Evo II is a no go. It's a 34mm head tube, so no space for anything other than 1 1/8 straight steerer.

    If you want a tapered fork, get the 45650b with the bigger head tube. It could still be built as a 26 if desired. I kinda wish I'd gone that route, but I'm happy with what I ended up doing with the Evo II, so...
    Thanks picked up a manitou new on amazon with straight steer tube.

  24. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pableras View Post
    The frame is over 2 years old, so the warranty has already expired, I didn't even tried honestly.

    Don't be worried because the frame is pretty strong, however I would avoid doing hops on the rear wheel, because I think this is what generaated the crack (amateur trials rider here).
    Thanks wont be hopping .... give it a try they may refund some or the whole amount. My buddy had a cotic that was outside of warranty and top tube split circular, they covered 50% of cost. Frame was 7 years old way out of warranty... Just be really nice with email

  25. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtsimaras View Post
    Thanks picked up a manitou new on amazon with straight steer tube.
    Perfect! Which one did you go with?

    I ended up going with a 150mm Sektor Gold coil for mine, knowing that it's basically a straight steerer Revelation chassis with a coil spring, so I can upgrade the dampers if desired. Haven't felt the need to upgrade yet, and it's very smooth and nice (I like the feel of a coil fork).

  26. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
    Perfect! Which one did you go with?

    I ended up going with a 150mm Sektor Gold coil for mine, knowing that it's basically a straight steerer Revelation chassis with a coil spring, so I can upgrade the dampers if desired. Haven't felt the need to upgrade yet, and it's very smooth and nice (I like the feel of a coil fork).
    I changed order going with a RockShox Sektor Gold RL Dual Position 150mm Coil as well. Coil are more consistent with rebound etc. Excited.

  27. #177
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    Hi fellas, i hope to offer some insight regarding the sektors--

    the air/coil spring issue is basically immaterial compared to the differences in dampers.

    The sektor silver RL comes with a fairly basic motion control damper. The rebound is an orifice damper (the more quickly you have impacts it gets sucked into its travel and says 'slow down!') and the compression circuit has a way to blow open for big impacts, but that threshold is fairly high and not adjustable. This is a pretty awesome entry-level fork.

    The sektor gold has a turnkey damper- the same rebound but hitting moderate sized impacts will completely overwhelm the damper and whack your hands because the compression is an orifice damper too. This is a really good damper if it's in a disposable OE fork on a new entry level hardtail, but you don't want to buy one of these aftermarket. It's completely outmatched on a 456.

    The sektor gold can accept the guts from a revelation, and that's an EXCELLENT move. The compression assembly can be dropped in in minutes and probably won't require any additional oil to play nicely. As you get faster and more confident replacing the rebound assembly will give you more grip at speed. Revelation guts aren't really amazing, but they're totally decent and a great match for a 456.

    ---


    I've run basically every rockshox damper/spring combo on a long travel hardtail. I currently have a lowered lyrik rc2dh on my 456, which is serving as a backup bike. When i built the 456 up i put a revelation with pike lowers on... happy to help!

    Enjoy your new forks!
    I like cheap stuff that works great and is very sturdy.

  28. #178
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    You've got the Gold vs Silver backwards. Silver has the garbage TK damper, Gold has the Motion Control.

    The gold isn't a spectacular fork, but it's a pretty good starting point. I was looking at a Fox 32 for mine, but when I stumbled on a deal for the Sektor for under $400, it was tough to justify spending almost $600 on the Fox, especially when the Sektor was a nice, low maintenance coil setup and can be dropped to 120mm if I ever feel the desire on a long climb.

    I don't end up pushing the 456 frame as hard as a lot of people, so I haven't really out-done what the Sektor can handle. My local trails don't tend to induce the pack-down problem with the lower end rebound damper. I've got the "soft" coil in mine compared to the stock "medium" and end up with right about 20% sag when seated. I usually run the compression on the 3rd click, can't remember where I have the rebound set.

    And I'm figuring when the day comes that I do (or I get bored and need to find something to spend money on), I'll get the Revelation's dual flow rebound damper and the Blackbox Motion Control compression damper and upgrade.

    Plus, on top of cost vs actual performance needs, the Sektor isn't an overly heavy fork, which is nice considering my 456 is about 32 lbs... I'm working on putting that thing on a diet though (light bars and brakes are on order, I'm planning out a lighter wheelset for it at some point too).

  29. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
    You've got the Gold vs Silver backwards. Silver has the garbage TK damper, Gold has the Motion Control.
    Rockshox's website has it backwards hahaha
    456 Evo II-z4eqw4r.png
    I like cheap stuff that works great and is very sturdy.

  30. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottzg View Post
    Rockshox's website has it backwards hahaha
    Interesting. I wonder if they changed things around for the new crop of stuff? They're currently listing only the Silver RL as MoCo damping, the Silver and Gold both show as TK. And only the Silver comes in 26" now.

    Very strange, considering my less than a year old Sektor Gold RL is 26", 1 1/8" straight steerer, the steerer tube is aluminum and it has the MoCo damper. They now only show that combo available for the Silver (except with TK instead of MoCo).

  31. #181
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    Interesting mine came today def. the gold ones and its brand spanking new from rockshox. My frame also came yesterday. Both were shipped so quick. I actually really like the rockshox stuff they all seem to work decent and reliable. Fox work good but wow what a pain in the arse...owned numerous examples and they all have been so high maintenance.

  32. #182
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    Just picked up this beast as a backup to my Kona Honzo and am very pleased. Will be putting a 40mm stem on and my Hadley/ Mavic wheelset on once I get them setup tubeless. I'll get updated pics up once I make the chancges .
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 456 Evo II-img_8836.jpg  


  33. #183
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    My 456 got some upgrades last night: New brakes (Hope Race Evo E4, 180mm front, 160 rear) to replace the 185mm BB7 setup I had been running. And a new set of Raceface Next carbon bars.

    I also just ordered a 24t inner chainring for my cranks to get slightly lower gearing without having to use a wider range cassette (changing the 26/36/48 to a 24/36/48). The reason for avoiding the wider range cassette is weight and gear spacing. I could go 10sp or 11sp in the rear to get lower and keep the close spacing (currently running an 11-32 9sp), but that adds weight to the cassette. A 2x11 weighs about the same as a 3x9, so there's no benefit to replacing everything and switching.

    1x won't give me the combo of range and close gearing I want. Makes the most sense to stay with 3x9 for now and then maybe go to 2x11 once I wear out enough parts.

  34. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
    My 456 got some upgrades last night: New brakes (Hope Race Evo E4, 180mm front, 160 rear) to replace the 185mm BB7 setup I had been running. And a new set of Raceface Next carbon bars.

    I also just ordered a 24t inner chainring for my cranks to get slightly lower gearing without having to use a wider range cassette (changing the 26/36/48 to a 24/36/48). The reason for avoiding the wider range cassette is weight and gear spacing. I could go 10sp or 11sp in the rear to get lower and keep the close spacing (currently running an 11-32 9sp), but that adds weight to the cassette. A 2x11 weighs about the same as a 3x9, so there's no benefit to replacing everything and switching.

    1x won't give me the combo of range and close gearing I want. Makes the most sense to stay with 3x9 for now and then maybe go to 2x11 once I wear out enough parts.
    Nice write up about gearing. For now I'm going with a 1x10 speed set up with a one-up hope expander -- reason they are parts laying around. I ordered a 1 crank hopefully my gearing will be ok. I don't think my climbing range will be impacted much but I'm thinking high speed runs will be limited ..... or I need to get my cadence up to 200/min lol.

  35. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtsimaras View Post
    I don't think my climbing range will be impacted much but I'm thinking high speed runs will be limited ..... or I need to get my cadence up to 200/min lol.
    That's exactly what led me to the setup I've got. I don't use the 48-11 all that often, but there are definitely times where it's nice to be heading down a hill on smooth ground and have the ability to keep my legs moving and make up some time by pushing for more speed than gravity alone will give.

  36. #186
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    95% Finished my build might add a chain ring bash guard.
    Build is:
    Formula C1 Brakes 180mm/160mm disc
    ANSWER Pro Taper SL 750 Carbon HnadleBar
    Shimano XT cassette with 1 up Hope Expander 42T 1x10
    Shimano XT der with SLX Shifter
    KMC Gold Chain
    Fulcrum Red Metal 3 Tubeless only Wheels
    Schwalbe Rocket Ron Performance Dual Compound Folding Tyre 26 x 2.3
    Stans Tubeless Sealant
    RockShox Sektor Gold RL Dual Position 150mm Coil
    Race Face Ride Narrow Wide Single Crankset
    CrankBros Eggbeaters
    Thomson Elite Seatpost
    Wtb Narrow Saddle
    I did a little theme over the word violence as kind of an odd phrase Stock stickers still intact and I 3m filmed most of the frame as well.

    Build weight 26.00 pounds with pedals Size Medum

    456 Evo II-img_20170311_083242669_hdr.jpg456 Evo II-img_20170311_083313291_hdr.jpg456 Evo II-img_20170311_083345134.jpg456 Evo II-img_20170311_083320614_hdr.jpg
    Last edited by jtsimaras; 1 Week Ago at 01:15 PM.

  37. #187
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    26 lbs!? Damn, I need to work on slimming my build down... A lighter wheelset will help and I've got the penalty of a triple crank and FD, but I'm at 32.4 lbs with the rack on mine... I'd love to get it down to 30 without going to crazy.

    Other than saddle and seatpost, I'm not sure how much more there is to give without spending tons of money. I'm already running carbon bars and a stupidly light Wren stem. Wheelset upgrades will get me another 1/2 - 2/3 of a pound, but that still leaves it at almost 32 lbs...

    Mind you, my 32.4 lbs is with the hand pump in its holder on the frame and a multi-tool and tube in the seat pack, but I consider those to be part of the bike weight as the bike is never ridden without them.

  38. #188
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    Thanks my goal was 25.5 but won't complain my wheelset is 1690 grams which is light . Tires are light as well but they kinda lack knobs or sidewall strength. Tubeless well save you around 300-375 grams from what I've experienced from tubeless set ups I've completed in the past. My budget would not have covered actual cost for my build but I had a bunch of stuff from my parts bin

    Quote Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
    26 lbs!? Damn, I need to work on slimming my build down... A lighter wheelset will help and I've got the penalty of a triple crank and FD, but I'm at 32.4 lbs with the rack on mine... I'd love to get it down to 30 without going to crazy.

    Other than saddle and seatpost, I'm not sure how much more there is to give without spending tons of money. I'm already running carbon bars and a stupidly light Wren stem. Wheelset upgrades will get me another 1/2 - 2/3 of a pound, but that still leaves it at almost 32 lbs...

    Mind you, my 32.4 lbs is with the hand pump in its holder on the frame and a multi-tool and tube in the seat pack, but I consider those to be part of the bike weight as the bike is never ridden without them.

  39. #189
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    My current wheelset is about 1900 grams (Mavic XM819s on Hope Pro 2s with DT Comp spokes, brass nipples)

    My planned new build should get close to 1600g depending on a few decisions I haven't made yet. I'm currently planning on going with WTB KOMs (probably i23, maybe i25), either DT Revolution or Sapim Laser spokes, almost definitely staying with brass nipples. I'm debating whether to re-use the current Pro 2 hubs or get something new (probably Pro 4s).

    It's pretty much down to this: do I buy the i23 KOMs, re-use the hubs and have them built locally (or DIY it) or do I get i25 KOMs on Pro4s from Chain Reaction (they don't offer the i23s for custom builds for some reason) and keep the current set around? The second option is only slightly more expensive, so that's the one I'm leaning towards. I just have to convince myself that the extra 20 grams per rim for the i25s isn't a big deal and that the extra width will be fine...

    I'm tubeless already, I just carry a tube as a "just in case". For tires, I'm running 26x2.25 Michelin Wild Grip'R2 Advanced, so not too heavy at a spec-ed 570 grams per tire. Definitely not bad weight-wise for how well they grip (and they roll nicely too).

    For the rest of the bike, if I wanted to start throwing $$$ at it, I could start replacing the XT drivetrain with lighter bits. But it works very well as-is, so... And the wide range / close spacing combo with the current 3x9 makes the bike a great do-everything setup. Cassette is an 11-32, I've got 26/36/48 up front (soon to be 24/36/48). Low enough gears for singletrack, fast enough gears for smooth stuff going downhill and close spacing for sprinting or keeping a comfortable cadence with some weight on the rack.

  40. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
    My current wheelset is about 1900 grams (Mavic XM819s on Hope Pro 2s with DT Comp spokes, brass nipples)

    My planned new build should get close to 1600g depending on a few decisions I haven't made yet. I'm currently planning on going with WTB KOMs (probably i23, maybe i25), either DT Revolution or Sapim Laser spokes, almost definitely staying with brass nipples. I'm debating whether to re-use the current Pro 2 hubs or get something new (probably Pro 4s).

    It's pretty much down to this: do I buy the i23 KOMs, re-use the hubs and have them built locally (or DIY it) or do I get i25 KOMs on Pro4s from Chain Reaction (they don't offer the i23s for custom builds for some reason) and keep the current set around? The second option is only slightly more expensive, so that's the one I'm leaning towards. I just have to convince myself that the extra 20 grams per rim for the i25s isn't a big deal and that the extra width will be fine...

    I'm tubeless already, I just carry a tube as a "just in case". For tires, I'm running 26x2.25 Michelin Wild Grip'R2 Advanced, so not too heavy at a spec-ed 570 grams per tire. Definitely not bad weight-wise for how well they grip (and they roll nicely too).

    For the rest of the bike, if I wanted to start throwing $$$ at it, I could start replacing the XT drivetrain with lighter bits. But it works very well as-is, so... And the wide range / close spacing combo with the current 3x9 makes the bike a great do-everything setup. Cassette is an 11-32, I've got 26/36/48 up front (soon to be 24/36/48). Low enough gears for singletrack, fast enough gears for smooth stuff going downhill and close spacing for sprinting or keeping a comfortable cadence with some weight on the rack.
    Sounds like you will save some weight definitely. Have you ever ran a 2x10 or venture into a 1x10 setup? You will definitely shave a lot of weight by running a 1x10. I was totally hesitant back in 2014 to run a 1x10 on by 29er but gave it a whirl and got use to it. I climb so crazy stuff and have no issues. Only beef is I do run out of top end but that is around 45-50 kms per hour....which really is not a speed most mtb riders can maintain for long periods of time so i'm ok with it. The simplicity of running a 1x setup is nice.

    My thomson seatpost is chopped as well and lighter than most carbon ones... its at 170 grams.

    SAD thing about my build I can't ride it to darn cold out -28 today with wind chill

  41. #191
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    I've thought about 1x, but I'd give up a lot of top end to do it (and those fast gears do see some use on rail trails or the occasional time I throw the slicks on and ride it on the street).

    And a lot of 1x setups focus on trying to get a wide range and end up with huge jumps between gears. I tend to spin more than mash, so I like the close gear spacing (hence the 11-32 cassette instead of an 11-34 or wider).

    I'll probably end up going to a 2x11 eventually when I wear out enough of the current drivetrain bits as it'll let me run newer stuff. But it'll still weigh about the same for equivalent level components (and have similar overall gearing).

  42. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pableras View Post
    Yesterday I found this nice crack in the seat stay of my 2014 456EvoII. I'm a bit disappointed, I thought that a 2,7kg steel frame was sturdy enough not to be worried about cracks. In this case it's clear that some kind of reicforcement like other bikes have would have prevented this crack.

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    Were you trying some trials moves, or got stopped on a hill and locked your brakes and hopped a bit? Because that crack is from locking your brakes and trying to rotate the wheel backwards. If the crack was on the front side, it would be from normal braking.
    I get my boards at Lux-RC.com

  43. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtsimaras View Post

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    Who thinks the stickers on my wheels are over kill?

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