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Thread: 456 Evo II

  1. #101
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    Well I finally got it built a few weeks ago. It basically shares the same wheels, brakes and forks as my full suspension bike, thus allowing me to have the benefit of 2 bikes without actually paying for it by swapping them over as and when.

    I'm really enjoying it compared to the old kona, its like a whippet in comparison on the climbs and feels overall more nimble.

    Anyways here are a few pics from a recent ride

    a message of inspiration from your friends at yoplait, fruit on the bottom, hope on top!

  2. #102
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    Took a lot of inspiration from here and there and I think I almost have her dialled.
    Will still be tweaking along the way.

    She will never again be as clean as she was in this picture.

    456 Evo II-photo.jpg

  3. #103
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    Does anyone here do much "freeride" with their 456? I'm not talking like full on Pro stuff, but some decent jumps/drops? They're rebuilding the skills park at a local trail and i'm looking forward to seeing what kind of limits i can push with this thing, seems like i don't see to many shots/vids of this bike in action but i would imagine they're out there.

  4. #104
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    Yeah. I wouldn't say I do much serious freeride stuff since I don't have the balls for it. I know it probably doesn't mean much, but the dudes I ride with generally like to run 150/160mm bikes and are a little surprised that I come out on a hardtail.

    I like steep rock rollers, g-outs aren't really a problem. I don't mind hitting 4-6 foot drops, but I'm not totally stoked on hitting drops to flat. Even using arms/legs to suck up the landings can get pretty jarring. Any sort of tranny makes jumps/drops much more tolerable. Your trails could be way gnarlier than mine though, so take that with a grain of salt.

    I wouldn't start hucking really massive stuff on a hardtail. When you mess up/case, you really know it haha. Not sure how crazy the local stuff will be, but if it isn't anything totally insane, why not go for it? And take some pics while you're at it!

  5. #105
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    Hoping for some sizing help.
    Looking at getting a 456 evo 2 for my son. He's at the moment 6' 1" (I'm 5' 9ish "). Currently have him on an 18" Inbred 29 which is looking rather small. He's running the seatpost at max ht. which is low for correct extension for pedaling. So I guess anyone 6' and over, happier with an 18 or 20" frame?
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  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSFA View Post
    Hoping for some sizing help.
    Looking at getting a 456 evo 2 for my son. He's at the moment 6' 1" (I'm 5' 9ish "). Currently have him on an 18" Inbred 29 which is looking rather small. He's running the seatpost at max ht. which is low for correct extension for pedaling. So I guess anyone 6' and over, happier with an 18 or 20" frame?
    20" without a doubt. I'm 6' on the dot and ride an 18" but it's borderline too small.

  7. #107
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    Thanks Gravityfreaky. I don't why I second guess myself on the sizing with this style of bike (could be because I was told I should be on a 16" instead of my "normal" 18" by Brant I guess).
    Our Inbred 29
    456 Evo II-20140910_123946.jpg

    And my Cotic BFe (sorry On One!)
    456 Evo II-cam01760.jpg

    UK Steel Baby!
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  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravityfreaky View Post
    Custom decals, Lev instead of Reverb and a few other things.
    Those decals are sweet! could you tell me where you got them? were they custom made?

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hardcore_Hardtail View Post
    Those decals are sweet! could you tell me where you got them? were they custom made?
    Thanks. Here you go:
    Generic Marzocchi 2012 Style Sticker Decal Set 888 66 55 44 22 Corsa Bomber DJ | eBay
    Light blue matches perfectly

  10. #110
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    Nice looking rides everyone...

    Here is another sizing question. I'm trying to decide between the 16" and 18". When I read the geo chart I notice the length is very close (18" is about 1 cm longer than 16") but the main difference is the seat tube length. I am 5'10.5", with longer torso than legs, so I am leaning towards the 16" to take advantage of the standover, seeing as 10cm adjustment in stem would make up the difference in the frames length. Does this sound right?

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by DWDW View Post
    Nice looking rides everyone...

    Here is another sizing question. I'm trying to decide between the 16" and 18". When I read the geo chart I notice the length is very close (18" is about 1 cm longer than 16") but the main difference is the seat tube length. I am 5'10.5", with longer torso than legs, so I am leaning towards the 16" to take advantage of the standover, seeing as 10cm adjustment in stem would make up the difference in the frames length. Does this sound right?
    How long is your inseam? I am roughly the same height as you with longish arms too but went with the 18 inch frame. my inseam is somewhere between 30 and 33 inches (I can get a more accurate measure if needed) and stand over is not an issue.
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  12. #112
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    I am roughly the same height too and bought the 16" and run it with a 50mm stem.

    I could have gone either way and had lots of trouble deciding so went with the 16" purely as I liked the shape of the frame better and it had shorter chain stays

  13. #113
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    two questions for the 456 evo II gurus -

    1. 5'9" 31" inseam - ride a medium chilcotin - if I go the evo route I was thinking the 16" yes?

    2. Can a tapered fork be used?

    I am not certain by their writeup "The head tube remains a standard 1.125in "external" or "normal" or "EC34" type. No fancy pants oversize tapered stuff for this one. Keeping it easy for you to swap over and upgrade."

    Thanks in advance

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by 006_007 View Post
    two questions for the 456 evo II gurus -

    1. 5'9" 31" inseam - ride a medium chilcotin - if I go the evo route I was thinking the 16" yes?

    2. Can a tapered fork be used?

    I am not certain by their writeup "The head tube remains a standard 1.125in "external" or "normal" or "EC34" type. No fancy pants oversize tapered stuff for this one. Keeping it easy for you to swap over and upgrade."

    Thanks in advance
    You could really go either way on frame sizes. It would really depend on if you want to be a little more stretched out with a large opposed to a medium. Stem choice can help some too.

    The regular EVO II frame does run a standard 1 1/8 head tube so a tapered fork will be a no-go.
    The newer 45650B will accommodate a tapered steerer if that is the way you are thinking of going.
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  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by djr8505 View Post
    You could really go either way on frame sizes. It would really depend on if you want to be a little more stretched out with a large opposed to a medium. Stem choice can help some too.

    The regular EVO II frame does run a standard 1 1/8 head tube so a tapered fork will be a no-go.
    The newer 45650B will accommodate a tapered steerer if that is the way you are thinking of going.
    Thats a shame as I have a tapered fork (26") sitting in my parts bin just looking for a use.

    Thanks for the clarification.

  16. #116
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    at your height , i say go for the 16". i am 5'11 with an 89 cm inseam. My first frame was the 18" but it was too big a frame so i now upgraded to evo2 in size 16". Its a world of difference, but then again it depends on the type of riding. good luck and happy riding.

  17. #117
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    I had this bike early April 2015. Since then, I rode her few time and totally impressed! It handles much better than my previous SC Chameleon (mk3) with the same parts despite an inch longer on ETT.

    Frame: 16" Raw
    Fork: X-Fusion Velvet (140mm/110mm)
    Stem: 35mm El-Guapo Corto
    BB height: 12.5"
    Rider height: 5' 8" (32" inseam)


    456 Evo II-p1120769.jpg
    Little action on our local trail in Bukit Kiara, Kuala Lumpur, MY.

    456 Evo II-p1120740.jpg
    The bike with 140mm X-Fusion Velvet

  18. #118
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    Just found this thread and feel the need to say - this is THE 26er hardtail frame to own if you like to shred. I had a Bfe beforehand and I can't say enough good things about how much better the 456evoII is in pretty much every aspect (apart from looks...). Fast, well sized, flexy enough to be comfortable at speed and responsive at the same time, great geo (150mm fork) and cheap!! What's not to like. Had mine for 1.5 years now and am thinking about a red or yellow one to build up just incase they ever get 'rare'!!

    456 Evo II-11241892_889564534433419_143450894_n.jpg

    456 Evo II-11242502_1440609259585011_724629464_n.jpg

    456 Evo II-10955324_364414377079215_1956883135_n.jpg

  19. #119
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    Just placed my order for the 18" Hot Smoked Paprika!!! I was going to go with the 16" because I'm only 5'10ish but I'm coming from riding a 20" Giant Yukon for the past 4 years and after reading all the comments I think this was the better choice. Plus because the head tube is a tad bit longer I won't have to cut too much off my steerer.

    Thanks to everyone providing great input. I can't wait to build her up. Will come back and post pictures!

  20. #120
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    On a side note/question. Just today on the ride to work I noticed that my WTB Bronson tire just delaminated near the bead (3rd one to do this), needless to say I am in the market for some new rubber and was wondering what tires and sizes you are fitting into the frame?
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  21. #121
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    i got the WTB Weirwolf 2.3. Amazingly aggressive tread, a bit heavy but awesome tire if you dont mind extra weight. I also had Maxxis in the past and they seem like a solid brand.

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by djr8505 View Post
    On a side note/question. Just today on the ride to work I noticed that my WTB Bronson tire just delaminated near the bead (3rd one to do this), needless to say I am in the market for some new rubber and was wondering what tires and sizes you are fitting into the frame?
    Tioga PsychoGenius 2.1" in the rear, that's more like a 2.25". And Panaracer CG 4X AM 2.35" up front. I've had 2.35" Nevegals but did not like them at all, that was on my old bike though so I may try them on on this new build just to see how they hold up.

    456 Evo II-bike_edit.jpg

  23. #123
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    Good to hear some of the responses. By any chance has anyone tried the Kenda Telonix, Price point has them ridiculously cheap but they are 2.6 width.
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  24. #124
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    I ran On One Chunky Monkeys (2.4 Ardent casing w/ beefy tread) on Stan's Flows and it was a tight fit. Had some rubbing here and there, I don't think you'll be able to fit a 2.6

    I now run Maxxis 2.3's and I love them. Also ran Specialized 2.3's I liked them, but couldn't find a good pressure and pinch flatted a lot.

    All tubeless if it matters

  25. #125
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    Sounds like the same problems my brother had when he was running Specialized Captains on his HT.
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  26. #126
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    would it be a waste to run this frame with a 100mm fork. usually I ride mostly fire roads with my girlfriend but lately I been riding with friends that are taking me to trails that are more aggressive and technical and this frame caught my attention.
    right now I ride a 2001 specialized stump jumper fsr xc which most likely is the geo is outdated and I wanted to transfer all the components to the evo2.

  27. #127
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    I ended up buying the frame anyways and iam going to give it a try with the 100mm

  28. #128
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    Anyone know the (unsagged) bottom bracket height with a 100mm fork? Back of the envelope calculation shows it might be around 12"? read through the thread, but still not sure if they'll be adequate clearance for 26" 2.35 wtb vigalante tires on 23mm rims (they measure out to about 60 mm and have a pretty large diameter).

    Also curious if anyone else could suggest other good 26" frame alternatives. Ideally something that can clear wide tires and gets ~13" bb height and 69 head head angle with a 100mm fork. Surly troll looks like another good candidate, but wondering if there are any other lower priced possibilities.

    Looking to transfer all my components over from an old trek with lots of upgrades - I loved the bike, but I got some tire rub when out of the saddle and zero mud clearance, and I'm looking for a bit higher bb bracket if possible.

  29. #129
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    OK, frame's here ("cycle of violence"... hehe... no one can stop it).

    First question, as to drive chain. Gonna do 1x10 with Zee out back, not sure what up front.

    I've set up a couple of 1x9's with n/w chainrings, never dropped a chain. But now that I have those ISCG mounts staring me in the face, I'm wondering. Did n/w chainrings make chainguides obsolete? No? Note I ride in Fla, no mountains to hurl myself off of around here.

    @McCarthy: I have some 2.2" tires on 22mm id rims. They are about 53.5mm in diameter. There's about 7mm of clearance on either side at the seat stays, about twice that much on either side at the chainstay. Seat stay geometry isn't going to like a tall tire very much. I have some 26mm id rims, I think that with a 2.2 tire will pretty much rock. We'll see. I think on this bike, the wider the rims the better, anything else is a waste of real estate. RE: troll, that thing has 71* hta and a short top tube, different kettle of fish altogether. Depends, etc.

  30. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by TampaDave View Post
    OK, frame's here ("cycle of violence"... hehe... no one can stop it).

    First question, as to drive chain. Gonna do 1x10 with Zee out back, not sure what up front.

    I've set up a couple of 1x9's with n/w chainrings, never dropped a chain. But now that I have those ISCG mounts staring me in the face, I'm wondering. Did n/w chainrings make chainguides obsolete? No? Note I ride in Fla, no mountains to hurl myself off of around here.

    @McCarthy: I have some 2.2" tires on 22mm id rims. They are about 53.5mm in diameter. There's about 7mm of clearance on either side at the seat stays, about twice that much on either side at the chainstay. Seat stay geometry isn't going to like a tall tire very much. I have some 26mm id rims, I think that with a 2.2 tire will pretty much rock. We'll see. I think on this bike, the wider the rims the better, anything else is a waste of real estate. RE: troll, that thing has 71* hta and a short top tube, different kettle of fish altogether. Depends, etc.
    thanks! I would like to run a tall tire so seems like this isn't the best frame for that although on my current frame I don't really get any flex up by the seatstays, so maybe I could get away with this being a tight spot... maybe I should see if I can find a 27.5" frame that will work well.

  31. #131
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    Building mine up as a rigid 69er, or something like that. Couple of options:
    1. 29er fork. Would need to tweak head tube angle to keep trail numbers in line.
    2. 100mm sus corrected fork, ditto but not quite as much.
    3. 80mm sus corrected fork. I have one with 51mm offset, which is nice. But it doesn't match and the trail numbers are a little lower than I want.

    Interesting thing is, I think the inbred might work better as a 69er (plus, it'll match my fork).

    The 456 would work like a charm with 26 in the back and a 650b up front. Nails all the numbers.

    Both frames are so inexpensive now, and I have all these wheels and parts lying around, I'm thinking I'll build one of each, do the 456 as a "B26" and the inbred as a ss 69er, see which one I like best.

    Either way, I like the 69er concept. I'm in that weird in-between size, at just under 5'8", where I can just almost fit on a 29er, can't quite get my fanny as far back over the rear axle as I would like. But big enough to where I have room to stuff at least one big wheel in there. Plus, I like to ride rigid. Lifting the front end up a bit and raking it out there, especially with a big wheel out front, makes the whole thing go down smoother.

    Plus, I asked for a Big Wheel for Christmas once, and Santa didn't bring it. So there.
    Last edited by TampaDave; 09-02-2015 at 01:47 PM.

  32. #132
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    Hey guys, I am about to pull the trigger on a 456 Evo2 for my first ground up MTB build. I am going to be riding All Mountain and Freeride, i want to be able to whip it around and have the lowest center of gravity possible but not feel cramped in the cockpit as I climb. The question is, should I get an 18" or 20"? I am 6' 3" with a 33" inseam and a longer torso than most.

    Any advice of personal experience with the frame size would be greatly appreciated.

  33. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by NickShoe View Post
    Hey guys, I am about to pull the trigger on a 456 Evo2 for my first ground up MTB build. I am going to be riding All Mountain and Freeride, i want to be able to whip it around and have the lowest center of gravity possible but not feel cramped in the cockpit as I climb. The question is, should I get an 18" or 20"? I am 6' 3" with a 33" inseam and a longer torso than most.

    Any advice of personal experience with the frame size would be greatly appreciated.
    20" frame for sure. Had the 18" inbred 29 that I was sharing with my son and he's your height now. Outgrew the 18 at about 6'1" lol. Btw, I'm 5'9", still ride 18" Cotic BFE.

  34. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSFA View Post
    20" frame for sure. Had the 18" inbred 29 that I was sharing with my son and he's your height now. Outgrew the 18 at about 6'1" lol. Btw, I'm 5'9", still ride 18" Cotic BFE.
    Thanks for the recommendation. I do have a follow up question though... What type of riding is your son doing? Like I mentioned I really want to be able to whip this thing around doing mostly free ride and honestly some downhill with table top jumps.

    Sorry for the redundancy, I just really want to make sure that going past the 18" frame won'e be a mistake for the style of riding I'll be doing with it.

  35. #135
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    We did Mt. Crested Butte chairlift runs with our hardtails and finished our day running the Avery DH run (black diamond race course) top to bottom. Had quite a few looks of disbelief/ y'all are crazy.
    So yeah, we like to throw the bikes around, catch air and play.
    Here's the catch with the 18 for you: the toptube length will be really tight for actually riding. There's times (big jump trails, basically dj riding) that I wish my 18 was like a 16 . But I don't wish it was shorter tt ever (climbing I wish it was a smidge longer even).
    Oh, my son is riding a 20 Kona frame right now also.

  36. #136
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    Does anyone in CT have a 16 or 18 I can try for sizing?

    Thanks.

  37. #137
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    made some changes to my evo2 went from 100mm to 140mm and it handles so much better

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    Quote Originally Posted by jarhead22 View Post
    made some changes to my evo2 went from 100mm to 140mm and it handles so much better
    I would like to get a dropper for this bike it has about 8 inches of exposed seat post on 16 inch frame what has been a reliable post for you guys?

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    Hi guys,

    34 year old here and completely new to the sport. I bought a large Voodoo Hoodoo about 6 months ago and have come to the realisation that the thing is just too big for me. It has a 615mm ETT which feels long even with a 50mm stem, and I have no standover clearance at all. It feels cumbersome and I'm really not enjoying riding it anymore.

    I'm looking at getting a cheap frame of a smaller size so I can transfer most of the bits from the Voodoo over and I'm thinking that the 456 Evo 2 pretty much fits the bill.

    I'm 5 11 1/2 tall with a 31.5 inseam. Do you reckon an 18 inch or a 16 inch frame would be best?

    I'll be doing some general messing around in the woods, commuting on the road, fooling around at the pump track with some small jumps etc.

    Also, I plan to run this with a 120mm fork for the time being, anyone running one like this too? How does it handle?

  40. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonBiscotti View Post
    Hi guys,

    34 year old here and completely new to the sport. I bought a large Voodoo Hoodoo about 6 months ago and have come to the realisation that the thing is just too big for me. It has a 615mm ETT which feels long even with a 50mm stem, and I have no standover clearance at all. It feels cumbersome and I'm really not enjoying riding it anymore.

    I'm looking at getting a cheap frame of a smaller size so I can transfer most of the bits from the Voodoo over and I'm thinking that the 456 Evo 2 pretty much fits the bill.

    I'm 5 11 1/2 tall with a 31.5 inseam. Do you reckon an 18 inch or a 16 inch frame would be best?

    I'll be doing some general messing around in the woods, commuting on the road, fooling around at the pump track with some small jumps etc.

    Also, I plan to run this with a 120mm fork for the time being, anyone running one like this too? How does it handle?
    Nice! Definitely a fun bike! I'd recommend the 18 inch at your size, but you could size down a little for a more bmx feel for pump tracks and stuff.

    I run mine at 120 every now and then, and it's pretty fun! handles a lot quicker than when I run it at 140. Fun for tight/twisty trails.

  41. #141
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    OK finally got it built up. Man what a sweet frame. Riding rigid, huge difference compared with an aluminum frame. Man. I remember back in the 80s when I couldn't wait to dump my steel road bike for one of them fancy aluminum Cannondales. What was I thinking?

    What a sweet frame, nice and compact. I'm just under 5'8" with a 29" inseam and the 16" frame is very compact with a 435mm fork, which should be equivalent to a 100mm sus fork with a 26" wheel. Works for me on flat, tight trails. I can just abuse trails that are a bit of a challenge on my 29er. Like driving a Boxster instead of a lifted pickup. Steering is very sharp. After trying a couple of fork/stem combo's, I like more offset (current fork is 51mm) and a 50mm stem.

    That said, there's a strong argument for going with a 29er fork. Soma has a Tange fork at 465mm that should be about perfect, it needs about 6mm more rake but it should slack out the seat tube a bit, open up the cockpit some. That'll slow down the steering a tad, which if you have any hills (I don't) is probably a good thing. Definitely 40mm stem with that fork. Also it'll get the bb up off the deck a little, I'm on 165mm cranks and still getting strikes from time to time. Wouldn't want it one mm lower, that's for sure. I kind of suspect most people will be happier with a 29er fork and I might put one on myself. Maybe. We'll see.

    I know people are all hating on the 69er concept but if you're going rigid there are arguments for it. Get the weight off the front, get your fanny back over the rear tire. Everything goes down smoother that way. Definitely need a high volume tire out back and a quality steel frame, and this is definitely it. Especially if you're short and the 29er frames just seem to big and ungainly, it has a lot to recommend it. Plenty of room for toes, more than enough.

    To be clear, I'm not dumping my 29er. It's more fun than a barrel of monkeys on a fast open trail. And way way nicer with slicks out on the pavement. No comparison. But this beats the daylights out of my 26er. Smokes it. Get the stem and the offset right and it steers plenty sharp; feels like a 26er but rolls so much better. Dang.

  42. #142
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    BTW if you don't like the handling with a 4" fork, think about getting more setback. The STA is close to 75 degrees, you'd need another 20mm of setback to get your fanny in the right spot.

    There are several reasons to love this frame; if you want a short wheelbase and low bb, and there are reasons to want that, I think a 4" fork or the equivalent nails that. Just gotta set it up right.

    You need setback even if you're short. Especially if you're short; which seems counterintuitive. But remember, if you have the seat slammed, the angle of the seat tube gets you that much more toward the front of the bike, gets the pedals that much more behind you.

  43. #143
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    Thinking of grabbing one of these to do a frankenbike build, since I've got parts laying around that are useless otherwise. I've already got a 456 evo carbon that rips. This will be more a beater/family ride/occasional trail ripper beast. My 456 carbon evo is a 16", but my Fatty is 18". At 5'10" and 30" inseam I can go either way, both are comfy. (I'm thinking 18" for this one to give a little more room.) Anyhow, I have:

    old Fox van36, straight steerer
    26" wheelset
    drivetrain parts galore
    brakes
    bars
    stem

    I might just need to grab some cranks (1x10), BB, and headset but should be good otherwise.

    any suggestions?

  44. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    Thinking of grabbing one of these to do a frankenbike build, since I've got parts laying around that are useless otherwise. I've already got a 456 evo carbon that rips. This will be more a beater/family ride/occasional trail ripper beast. My 456 carbon evo is a 16", but my Fatty is 18". At 5'10" and 30" inseam I can go either way, both are comfy. (I'm thinking 18" for this one to give a little more room.) Anyhow, I have:

    old Fox van36, straight steerer
    26" wheelset
    drivetrain parts galore
    brakes
    bars
    stem

    I might just need to grab some cranks (1x10), BB, and headset but should be good otherwise.

    any suggestions?
    My 16" frame with a fork setup that falls halfway between the "4' and the "5" was way too tight with a straight seatpost and a 40mm stem. I set the seat back 20 and the stem out 10 and it's about perfect now.

    So. A 6" fork will increase your ETT by say 30mm. I figure you might fit on the 16 with a straight seatpost and a 60mm stem, or a setback seatpost and a 40mm stem, give or take to get your weight distribution right. It's close eh. I see why you're leaning toward the 18 tho.

    Crosslake has a bunch of SLX cranks up for auction on ebay right now; once you take the rings off there's not a dime's worth of difference between those and XT cranks. The_bikesmiths have some Sugino XD cranks up for $65 shipped.

    Haven't seen any bodacious deals on headsets, and I've been looking. (Except for a vintage NOS shimano XT 1 1/8 threaded for $34 BOOM got the last one).

    Great frame. Smooth like butter, climbs like a billy-goat. Handles great, I've been amazed. Numbers don't do it justice.

  45. #145
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    Hey thanks for following up and suggesting stuff. Let's me indulge my little project a bit...

    Quote Originally Posted by TampaDave View Post
    My 16" frame with a fork setup that falls halfway between the "4' and the "5" was way too tight with a straight seatpost and a 40mm stem. I set the seat back 20 and the stem out 10 and it's about perfect now.

    So. A 6" fork will increase your ETT by say 30mm. I figure you might fit on the 16 with a straight seatpost and a 60mm stem, or a setback seatpost and a 40mm stem, give or take to get your weight distribution right. It's close eh. I see why you're leaning toward the 18 tho.
    My current 456 Evo carbon is 16". Set up with setback dropper (Spec CP) and 70mm stem. Comfortable, nimble, whippable. A 'bit' on the tight side though. I couldn't see being comfortable on this with a 50mm stem, which is what I have at spare (a 45 also) Contrary to that, I also have a Fatty, 18" running a 50mm stem and that provides a little more room in the cockpit. I guess in getting the Evo2 in 18" I'm subconsciously answering my question about 16 or 18.


    Quote Originally Posted by TampaDave View Post
    Crosslake has a bunch of SLX cranks up for auction on ebay right now; once you take the rings off there's not a dime's worth of difference between those and XT cranks. The_bikesmiths have some Sugino XD cranks up for $65 shipped.
    My spare chainring is a direct-mount that fits Sram. I've scored a set of new x9's w/BB that should be a good fit (running a set these on the 456 carbon too. Ahh, parts consistency)

    Quote Originally Posted by TampaDave View Post
    Haven't seen any bodacious deals on headsets, and I've been looking. (Except for a vintage NOS shimano XT 1 1/8 threaded for $34 BOOM got the last one).
    I ordered up a FSA Orbit MX in blue when I ordered the frame. Inexpensive enough, and Blue!

    Quote Originally Posted by TampaDave View Post
    Great frame. Smooth like butter, climbs like a billy-goat. Handles great, I've been amazed. Numbers don't do it justice.
    Thanks again. Looking forward to answering my, "is Steel really real" question.

    Anyone can recommend a fairly inexpensive dropper post in 30.9?

  46. #146
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    Let me know what you think about that headset, I've heard mixed reviews but I'm kinda into art bikes now and well color matters

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    I'm running an Orbit MX (in blue!) on my 456 and its been good for me for the last two years. I'm no hardcore rider but its stood up to Michigan single track and a small amount of jumps/drops.

    I'm saving up for some Velocity Blunt 35 rims (30id, 35od) and hope pro 2's (if they go on sale). Anyone else running rims that wide on their Evo II?

  48. #148
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    Built this frame up with spare parts just before the holidays before I got all into single speeding. I have yet to take this on a worthy trail, but I manage to find a wtb rocket saddle and moved the B17 onto a folding bike.

  49. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by kyle_vk View Post
    I'm running an Orbit MX (in blue!) on my 456 and its been good for me for the last two years. I'm no hardcore rider but its stood up to Michigan single track and a small amount of jumps/drops.
    Cool. I pulled the trigger on a red one, to go with the "ketchup and mustard" color scheme. Cartridge bearing, o-rings. Looks about equivalent to Cane Creek 40. Seems light, which is fine with me.


    I'm saving up for some Velocity Blunt 35 rims (30id, 35od) and hope pro 2's (if they go on sale). Anyone else running rims that wide on their Evo II?
    Until somebody chimes in who's actually done it, I'll throw some numbers out there for ya that might help.

    Right now, I'm running an Ikon 2.35 on a 26mm id rim, nice profile, 57mm wide (same as my Ardent 2.4). Seatstay clearance is 72mm, chainstay is more. Same tire on Blunt 35 should be ~62mm.

    On my other bike, I have an XR2 2.2 on an i29 rim, it's also 57mm.

    Both have excellent profiles on wide rims. Pick your contact patch, compliance and clearance. The Ikon is a gorgeous perfect rear tire imo and it's a beast, should set up like a champ on the Blunt 35.

  50. #150
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    "Ketchup and Mustard." 456 evo ii rigid 69er.
    16" frame
    OS Bikes fork, 435mm AC, 50mm offset
    Pacenti DL31 rims, BHS hubs
    XT 165mm cranks w/ Cromag 32t cr
    Zee 10spd rd
    BB7 brakes, speed dial levers
    Thomson setback post, Brooks Cambium seat

    Still kinda messing around with front tire, stem and bars. That 2.35 Ikon out back is the bomb, totally the right tire for this bike.

    Not a terrible way to go rigid. However, knowing what I know now, I probably would have gone blunt 35 rims f&r, 650b front, On-One MKM carbon fork 450/50. Still gets you at the same basic geo as running a 26x26 with a 120mm fork, but your trail numbers get down into the 70s. Might try it someday.
    Last edited by TampaDave; 02-12-2016 at 09:18 AM.

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