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Thread: 456 Evo II

  1. #101
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    Well I finally got it built a few weeks ago. It basically shares the same wheels, brakes and forks as my full suspension bike, thus allowing me to have the benefit of 2 bikes without actually paying for it by swapping them over as and when.

    I'm really enjoying it compared to the old kona, its like a whippet in comparison on the climbs and feels overall more nimble.

    Anyways here are a few pics from a recent ride

    a message of inspiration from your friends at yoplait, fruit on the bottom, hope on top!

  2. #102
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    Took a lot of inspiration from here and there and I think I almost have her dialled.
    Will still be tweaking along the way.

    She will never again be as clean as she was in this picture.

    456 Evo II-photo.jpg

  3. #103
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    Does anyone here do much "freeride" with their 456? I'm not talking like full on Pro stuff, but some decent jumps/drops? They're rebuilding the skills park at a local trail and i'm looking forward to seeing what kind of limits i can push with this thing, seems like i don't see to many shots/vids of this bike in action but i would imagine they're out there.

  4. #104
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    Yeah. I wouldn't say I do much serious freeride stuff since I don't have the balls for it. I know it probably doesn't mean much, but the dudes I ride with generally like to run 150/160mm bikes and are a little surprised that I come out on a hardtail.

    I like steep rock rollers, g-outs aren't really a problem. I don't mind hitting 4-6 foot drops, but I'm not totally stoked on hitting drops to flat. Even using arms/legs to suck up the landings can get pretty jarring. Any sort of tranny makes jumps/drops much more tolerable. Your trails could be way gnarlier than mine though, so take that with a grain of salt.

    I wouldn't start hucking really massive stuff on a hardtail. When you mess up/case, you really know it haha. Not sure how crazy the local stuff will be, but if it isn't anything totally insane, why not go for it? And take some pics while you're at it!

  5. #105
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    Hoping for some sizing help.
    Looking at getting a 456 evo 2 for my son. He's at the moment 6' 1" (I'm 5' 9ish "). Currently have him on an 18" Inbred 29 which is looking rather small. He's running the seatpost at max ht. which is low for correct extension for pedaling. So I guess anyone 6' and over, happier with an 18 or 20" frame?
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  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSFA View Post
    Hoping for some sizing help.
    Looking at getting a 456 evo 2 for my son. He's at the moment 6' 1" (I'm 5' 9ish "). Currently have him on an 18" Inbred 29 which is looking rather small. He's running the seatpost at max ht. which is low for correct extension for pedaling. So I guess anyone 6' and over, happier with an 18 or 20" frame?
    20" without a doubt. I'm 6' on the dot and ride an 18" but it's borderline too small.

  7. #107
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    Thanks Gravityfreaky. I don't why I second guess myself on the sizing with this style of bike (could be because I was told I should be on a 16" instead of my "normal" 18" by Brant I guess).
    Our Inbred 29
    456 Evo II-20140910_123946.jpg

    And my Cotic BFe (sorry On One!)
    456 Evo II-cam01760.jpg

    UK Steel Baby!
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  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravityfreaky View Post
    Custom decals, Lev instead of Reverb and a few other things.
    Those decals are sweet! could you tell me where you got them? were they custom made?

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hardcore_Hardtail View Post
    Those decals are sweet! could you tell me where you got them? were they custom made?
    Thanks. Here you go:
    Generic Marzocchi 2012 Style Sticker Decal Set 888 66 55 44 22 Corsa Bomber DJ | eBay
    Light blue matches perfectly

  10. #110
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    Nice looking rides everyone...

    Here is another sizing question. I'm trying to decide between the 16" and 18". When I read the geo chart I notice the length is very close (18" is about 1 cm longer than 16") but the main difference is the seat tube length. I am 5'10.5", with longer torso than legs, so I am leaning towards the 16" to take advantage of the standover, seeing as 10cm adjustment in stem would make up the difference in the frames length. Does this sound right?

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by DWDW View Post
    Nice looking rides everyone...

    Here is another sizing question. I'm trying to decide between the 16" and 18". When I read the geo chart I notice the length is very close (18" is about 1 cm longer than 16") but the main difference is the seat tube length. I am 5'10.5", with longer torso than legs, so I am leaning towards the 16" to take advantage of the standover, seeing as 10cm adjustment in stem would make up the difference in the frames length. Does this sound right?
    How long is your inseam? I am roughly the same height as you with longish arms too but went with the 18 inch frame. my inseam is somewhere between 30 and 33 inches (I can get a more accurate measure if needed) and stand over is not an issue.
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  12. #112
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    I am roughly the same height too and bought the 16" and run it with a 50mm stem.

    I could have gone either way and had lots of trouble deciding so went with the 16" purely as I liked the shape of the frame better and it had shorter chain stays

  13. #113
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    two questions for the 456 evo II gurus -

    1. 5'9" 31" inseam - ride a medium chilcotin - if I go the evo route I was thinking the 16" yes?

    2. Can a tapered fork be used?

    I am not certain by their writeup "The head tube remains a standard 1.125in "external" or "normal" or "EC34" type. No fancy pants oversize tapered stuff for this one. Keeping it easy for you to swap over and upgrade."

    Thanks in advance

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by 006_007 View Post
    two questions for the 456 evo II gurus -

    1. 5'9" 31" inseam - ride a medium chilcotin - if I go the evo route I was thinking the 16" yes?

    2. Can a tapered fork be used?

    I am not certain by their writeup "The head tube remains a standard 1.125in "external" or "normal" or "EC34" type. No fancy pants oversize tapered stuff for this one. Keeping it easy for you to swap over and upgrade."

    Thanks in advance
    You could really go either way on frame sizes. It would really depend on if you want to be a little more stretched out with a large opposed to a medium. Stem choice can help some too.

    The regular EVO II frame does run a standard 1 1/8 head tube so a tapered fork will be a no-go.
    The newer 45650B will accommodate a tapered steerer if that is the way you are thinking of going.
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  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by djr8505 View Post
    You could really go either way on frame sizes. It would really depend on if you want to be a little more stretched out with a large opposed to a medium. Stem choice can help some too.

    The regular EVO II frame does run a standard 1 1/8 head tube so a tapered fork will be a no-go.
    The newer 45650B will accommodate a tapered steerer if that is the way you are thinking of going.
    Thats a shame as I have a tapered fork (26") sitting in my parts bin just looking for a use.

    Thanks for the clarification.

  16. #116
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    at your height , i say go for the 16". i am 5'11 with an 89 cm inseam. My first frame was the 18" but it was too big a frame so i now upgraded to evo2 in size 16". Its a world of difference, but then again it depends on the type of riding. good luck and happy riding.

  17. #117
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    I had this bike early April 2015. Since then, I rode her few time and totally impressed! It handles much better than my previous SC Chameleon (mk3) with the same parts despite an inch longer on ETT.

    Frame: 16" Raw
    Fork: X-Fusion Velvet (140mm/110mm)
    Stem: 35mm El-Guapo Corto
    BB height: 12.5"
    Rider height: 5' 8" (32" inseam)


    456 Evo II-p1120769.jpg
    Little action on our local trail in Bukit Kiara, Kuala Lumpur, MY.

    456 Evo II-p1120740.jpg
    The bike with 140mm X-Fusion Velvet

  18. #118
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    Just found this thread and feel the need to say - this is THE 26er hardtail frame to own if you like to shred. I had a Bfe beforehand and I can't say enough good things about how much better the 456evoII is in pretty much every aspect (apart from looks...). Fast, well sized, flexy enough to be comfortable at speed and responsive at the same time, great geo (150mm fork) and cheap!! What's not to like. Had mine for 1.5 years now and am thinking about a red or yellow one to build up just incase they ever get 'rare'!!

    456 Evo II-11241892_889564534433419_143450894_n.jpg

    456 Evo II-11242502_1440609259585011_724629464_n.jpg

    456 Evo II-10955324_364414377079215_1956883135_n.jpg

  19. #119
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    Just placed my order for the 18" Hot Smoked Paprika!!! I was going to go with the 16" because I'm only 5'10ish but I'm coming from riding a 20" Giant Yukon for the past 4 years and after reading all the comments I think this was the better choice. Plus because the head tube is a tad bit longer I won't have to cut too much off my steerer.

    Thanks to everyone providing great input. I can't wait to build her up. Will come back and post pictures!

  20. #120
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    On a side note/question. Just today on the ride to work I noticed that my WTB Bronson tire just delaminated near the bead (3rd one to do this), needless to say I am in the market for some new rubber and was wondering what tires and sizes you are fitting into the frame?
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  21. #121
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    i got the WTB Weirwolf 2.3. Amazingly aggressive tread, a bit heavy but awesome tire if you dont mind extra weight. I also had Maxxis in the past and they seem like a solid brand.

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by djr8505 View Post
    On a side note/question. Just today on the ride to work I noticed that my WTB Bronson tire just delaminated near the bead (3rd one to do this), needless to say I am in the market for some new rubber and was wondering what tires and sizes you are fitting into the frame?
    Tioga PsychoGenius 2.1" in the rear, that's more like a 2.25". And Panaracer CG 4X AM 2.35" up front. I've had 2.35" Nevegals but did not like them at all, that was on my old bike though so I may try them on on this new build just to see how they hold up.

    456 Evo II-bike_edit.jpg

  23. #123
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    Good to hear some of the responses. By any chance has anyone tried the Kenda Telonix, Price point has them ridiculously cheap but they are 2.6 width.
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  24. #124
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    I ran On One Chunky Monkeys (2.4 Ardent casing w/ beefy tread) on Stan's Flows and it was a tight fit. Had some rubbing here and there, I don't think you'll be able to fit a 2.6

    I now run Maxxis 2.3's and I love them. Also ran Specialized 2.3's I liked them, but couldn't find a good pressure and pinch flatted a lot.

    All tubeless if it matters

  25. #125
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    Sounds like the same problems my brother had when he was running Specialized Captains on his HT.
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  26. #126
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    would it be a waste to run this frame with a 100mm fork. usually I ride mostly fire roads with my girlfriend but lately I been riding with friends that are taking me to trails that are more aggressive and technical and this frame caught my attention.
    right now I ride a 2001 specialized stump jumper fsr xc which most likely is the geo is outdated and I wanted to transfer all the components to the evo2.

  27. #127
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    I ended up buying the frame anyways and iam going to give it a try with the 100mm

  28. #128
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    Anyone know the (unsagged) bottom bracket height with a 100mm fork? Back of the envelope calculation shows it might be around 12"? read through the thread, but still not sure if they'll be adequate clearance for 26" 2.35 wtb vigalante tires on 23mm rims (they measure out to about 60 mm and have a pretty large diameter).

    Also curious if anyone else could suggest other good 26" frame alternatives. Ideally something that can clear wide tires and gets ~13" bb height and 69 head head angle with a 100mm fork. Surly troll looks like another good candidate, but wondering if there are any other lower priced possibilities.

    Looking to transfer all my components over from an old trek with lots of upgrades - I loved the bike, but I got some tire rub when out of the saddle and zero mud clearance, and I'm looking for a bit higher bb bracket if possible.

  29. #129
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    OK, frame's here ("cycle of violence"... hehe... no one can stop it).

    First question, as to drive chain. Gonna do 1x10 with Zee out back, not sure what up front.

    I've set up a couple of 1x9's with n/w chainrings, never dropped a chain. But now that I have those ISCG mounts staring me in the face, I'm wondering. Did n/w chainrings make chainguides obsolete? No? Note I ride in Fla, no mountains to hurl myself off of around here.

    @McCarthy: I have some 2.2" tires on 22mm id rims. They are about 53.5mm in diameter. There's about 7mm of clearance on either side at the seat stays, about twice that much on either side at the chainstay. Seat stay geometry isn't going to like a tall tire very much. I have some 26mm id rims, I think that with a 2.2 tire will pretty much rock. We'll see. I think on this bike, the wider the rims the better, anything else is a waste of real estate. RE: troll, that thing has 71* hta and a short top tube, different kettle of fish altogether. Depends, etc.

  30. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by TampaDave View Post
    OK, frame's here ("cycle of violence"... hehe... no one can stop it).

    First question, as to drive chain. Gonna do 1x10 with Zee out back, not sure what up front.

    I've set up a couple of 1x9's with n/w chainrings, never dropped a chain. But now that I have those ISCG mounts staring me in the face, I'm wondering. Did n/w chainrings make chainguides obsolete? No? Note I ride in Fla, no mountains to hurl myself off of around here.

    @McCarthy: I have some 2.2" tires on 22mm id rims. They are about 53.5mm in diameter. There's about 7mm of clearance on either side at the seat stays, about twice that much on either side at the chainstay. Seat stay geometry isn't going to like a tall tire very much. I have some 26mm id rims, I think that with a 2.2 tire will pretty much rock. We'll see. I think on this bike, the wider the rims the better, anything else is a waste of real estate. RE: troll, that thing has 71* hta and a short top tube, different kettle of fish altogether. Depends, etc.
    thanks! I would like to run a tall tire so seems like this isn't the best frame for that although on my current frame I don't really get any flex up by the seatstays, so maybe I could get away with this being a tight spot... maybe I should see if I can find a 27.5" frame that will work well.

  31. #131
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    Building mine up as a rigid 69er, or something like that. Couple of options:
    1. 29er fork. Would need to tweak head tube angle to keep trail numbers in line.
    2. 100mm sus corrected fork, ditto but not quite as much.
    3. 80mm sus corrected fork. I have one with 51mm offset, which is nice. But it doesn't match and the trail numbers are a little lower than I want.

    Interesting thing is, I think the inbred might work better as a 69er (plus, it'll match my fork).

    The 456 would work like a charm with 26 in the back and a 650b up front. Nails all the numbers.

    Both frames are so inexpensive now, and I have all these wheels and parts lying around, I'm thinking I'll build one of each, do the 456 as a "B26" and the inbred as a ss 69er, see which one I like best.

    Either way, I like the 69er concept. I'm in that weird in-between size, at just under 5'8", where I can just almost fit on a 29er, can't quite get my fanny as far back over the rear axle as I would like. But big enough to where I have room to stuff at least one big wheel in there. Plus, I like to ride rigid. Lifting the front end up a bit and raking it out there, especially with a big wheel out front, makes the whole thing go down smoother.

    Plus, I asked for a Big Wheel for Christmas once, and Santa didn't bring it. So there.
    Last edited by TampaDave; 09-02-2015 at 12:47 PM.

  32. #132
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    Hey guys, I am about to pull the trigger on a 456 Evo2 for my first ground up MTB build. I am going to be riding All Mountain and Freeride, i want to be able to whip it around and have the lowest center of gravity possible but not feel cramped in the cockpit as I climb. The question is, should I get an 18" or 20"? I am 6' 3" with a 33" inseam and a longer torso than most.

    Any advice of personal experience with the frame size would be greatly appreciated.

  33. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by NickShoe View Post
    Hey guys, I am about to pull the trigger on a 456 Evo2 for my first ground up MTB build. I am going to be riding All Mountain and Freeride, i want to be able to whip it around and have the lowest center of gravity possible but not feel cramped in the cockpit as I climb. The question is, should I get an 18" or 20"? I am 6' 3" with a 33" inseam and a longer torso than most.

    Any advice of personal experience with the frame size would be greatly appreciated.
    20" frame for sure. Had the 18" inbred 29 that I was sharing with my son and he's your height now. Outgrew the 18 at about 6'1" lol. Btw, I'm 5'9", still ride 18" Cotic BFE.

  34. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSFA View Post
    20" frame for sure. Had the 18" inbred 29 that I was sharing with my son and he's your height now. Outgrew the 18 at about 6'1" lol. Btw, I'm 5'9", still ride 18" Cotic BFE.
    Thanks for the recommendation. I do have a follow up question though... What type of riding is your son doing? Like I mentioned I really want to be able to whip this thing around doing mostly free ride and honestly some downhill with table top jumps.

    Sorry for the redundancy, I just really want to make sure that going past the 18" frame won'e be a mistake for the style of riding I'll be doing with it.

  35. #135
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    We did Mt. Crested Butte chairlift runs with our hardtails and finished our day running the Avery DH run (black diamond race course) top to bottom. Had quite a few looks of disbelief/ y'all are crazy.
    So yeah, we like to throw the bikes around, catch air and play.
    Here's the catch with the 18 for you: the toptube length will be really tight for actually riding. There's times (big jump trails, basically dj riding) that I wish my 18 was like a 16 . But I don't wish it was shorter tt ever (climbing I wish it was a smidge longer even).
    Oh, my son is riding a 20 Kona frame right now also.

  36. #136
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    Does anyone in CT have a 16 or 18 I can try for sizing?

    Thanks.

  37. #137
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    made some changes to my evo2 went from 100mm to 140mm and it handles so much better

  38. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by jarhead22 View Post
    made some changes to my evo2 went from 100mm to 140mm and it handles so much better
    I would like to get a dropper for this bike it has about 8 inches of exposed seat post on 16 inch frame what has been a reliable post for you guys?

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    Hi guys,

    34 year old here and completely new to the sport. I bought a large Voodoo Hoodoo about 6 months ago and have come to the realisation that the thing is just too big for me. It has a 615mm ETT which feels long even with a 50mm stem, and I have no standover clearance at all. It feels cumbersome and I'm really not enjoying riding it anymore.

    I'm looking at getting a cheap frame of a smaller size so I can transfer most of the bits from the Voodoo over and I'm thinking that the 456 Evo 2 pretty much fits the bill.

    I'm 5 11 1/2 tall with a 31.5 inseam. Do you reckon an 18 inch or a 16 inch frame would be best?

    I'll be doing some general messing around in the woods, commuting on the road, fooling around at the pump track with some small jumps etc.

    Also, I plan to run this with a 120mm fork for the time being, anyone running one like this too? How does it handle?

  40. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonBiscotti View Post
    Hi guys,

    34 year old here and completely new to the sport. I bought a large Voodoo Hoodoo about 6 months ago and have come to the realisation that the thing is just too big for me. It has a 615mm ETT which feels long even with a 50mm stem, and I have no standover clearance at all. It feels cumbersome and I'm really not enjoying riding it anymore.

    I'm looking at getting a cheap frame of a smaller size so I can transfer most of the bits from the Voodoo over and I'm thinking that the 456 Evo 2 pretty much fits the bill.

    I'm 5 11 1/2 tall with a 31.5 inseam. Do you reckon an 18 inch or a 16 inch frame would be best?

    I'll be doing some general messing around in the woods, commuting on the road, fooling around at the pump track with some small jumps etc.

    Also, I plan to run this with a 120mm fork for the time being, anyone running one like this too? How does it handle?
    Nice! Definitely a fun bike! I'd recommend the 18 inch at your size, but you could size down a little for a more bmx feel for pump tracks and stuff.

    I run mine at 120 every now and then, and it's pretty fun! handles a lot quicker than when I run it at 140. Fun for tight/twisty trails.

  41. #141
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    OK finally got it built up. Man what a sweet frame. Riding rigid, huge difference compared with an aluminum frame. Man. I remember back in the 80s when I couldn't wait to dump my steel road bike for one of them fancy aluminum Cannondales. What was I thinking?

    What a sweet frame, nice and compact. I'm just under 5'8" with a 29" inseam and the 16" frame is very compact with a 435mm fork, which should be equivalent to a 100mm sus fork with a 26" wheel. Works for me on flat, tight trails. I can just abuse trails that are a bit of a challenge on my 29er. Like driving a Boxster instead of a lifted pickup. Steering is very sharp. After trying a couple of fork/stem combo's, I like more offset (current fork is 51mm) and a 50mm stem.

    That said, there's a strong argument for going with a 29er fork. Soma has a Tange fork at 465mm that should be about perfect, it needs about 6mm more rake but it should slack out the seat tube a bit, open up the cockpit some. That'll slow down the steering a tad, which if you have any hills (I don't) is probably a good thing. Definitely 40mm stem with that fork. Also it'll get the bb up off the deck a little, I'm on 165mm cranks and still getting strikes from time to time. Wouldn't want it one mm lower, that's for sure. I kind of suspect most people will be happier with a 29er fork and I might put one on myself. Maybe. We'll see.

    I know people are all hating on the 69er concept but if you're going rigid there are arguments for it. Get the weight off the front, get your fanny back over the rear tire. Everything goes down smoother that way. Definitely need a high volume tire out back and a quality steel frame, and this is definitely it. Especially if you're short and the 29er frames just seem to big and ungainly, it has a lot to recommend it. Plenty of room for toes, more than enough.

    To be clear, I'm not dumping my 29er. It's more fun than a barrel of monkeys on a fast open trail. And way way nicer with slicks out on the pavement. No comparison. But this beats the daylights out of my 26er. Smokes it. Get the stem and the offset right and it steers plenty sharp; feels like a 26er but rolls so much better. Dang.

  42. #142
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    BTW if you don't like the handling with a 4" fork, think about getting more setback. The STA is close to 75 degrees, you'd need another 20mm of setback to get your fanny in the right spot.

    There are several reasons to love this frame; if you want a short wheelbase and low bb, and there are reasons to want that, I think a 4" fork or the equivalent nails that. Just gotta set it up right.

    You need setback even if you're short. Especially if you're short; which seems counterintuitive. But remember, if you have the seat slammed, the angle of the seat tube gets you that much more toward the front of the bike, gets the pedals that much more behind you.

  43. #143
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    Thinking of grabbing one of these to do a frankenbike build, since I've got parts laying around that are useless otherwise. I've already got a 456 evo carbon that rips. This will be more a beater/family ride/occasional trail ripper beast. My 456 carbon evo is a 16", but my Fatty is 18". At 5'10" and 30" inseam I can go either way, both are comfy. (I'm thinking 18" for this one to give a little more room.) Anyhow, I have:

    old Fox van36, straight steerer
    26" wheelset
    drivetrain parts galore
    brakes
    bars
    stem

    I might just need to grab some cranks (1x10), BB, and headset but should be good otherwise.

    any suggestions?

  44. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    Thinking of grabbing one of these to do a frankenbike build, since I've got parts laying around that are useless otherwise. I've already got a 456 evo carbon that rips. This will be more a beater/family ride/occasional trail ripper beast. My 456 carbon evo is a 16", but my Fatty is 18". At 5'10" and 30" inseam I can go either way, both are comfy. (I'm thinking 18" for this one to give a little more room.) Anyhow, I have:

    old Fox van36, straight steerer
    26" wheelset
    drivetrain parts galore
    brakes
    bars
    stem

    I might just need to grab some cranks (1x10), BB, and headset but should be good otherwise.

    any suggestions?
    My 16" frame with a fork setup that falls halfway between the "4' and the "5" was way too tight with a straight seatpost and a 40mm stem. I set the seat back 20 and the stem out 10 and it's about perfect now.

    So. A 6" fork will increase your ETT by say 30mm. I figure you might fit on the 16 with a straight seatpost and a 60mm stem, or a setback seatpost and a 40mm stem, give or take to get your weight distribution right. It's close eh. I see why you're leaning toward the 18 tho.

    Crosslake has a bunch of SLX cranks up for auction on ebay right now; once you take the rings off there's not a dime's worth of difference between those and XT cranks. The_bikesmiths have some Sugino XD cranks up for $65 shipped.

    Haven't seen any bodacious deals on headsets, and I've been looking. (Except for a vintage NOS shimano XT 1 1/8 threaded for $34 BOOM got the last one).

    Great frame. Smooth like butter, climbs like a billy-goat. Handles great, I've been amazed. Numbers don't do it justice.

  45. #145
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    Hey thanks for following up and suggesting stuff. Let's me indulge my little project a bit...

    Quote Originally Posted by TampaDave View Post
    My 16" frame with a fork setup that falls halfway between the "4' and the "5" was way too tight with a straight seatpost and a 40mm stem. I set the seat back 20 and the stem out 10 and it's about perfect now.

    So. A 6" fork will increase your ETT by say 30mm. I figure you might fit on the 16 with a straight seatpost and a 60mm stem, or a setback seatpost and a 40mm stem, give or take to get your weight distribution right. It's close eh. I see why you're leaning toward the 18 tho.
    My current 456 Evo carbon is 16". Set up with setback dropper (Spec CP) and 70mm stem. Comfortable, nimble, whippable. A 'bit' on the tight side though. I couldn't see being comfortable on this with a 50mm stem, which is what I have at spare (a 45 also) Contrary to that, I also have a Fatty, 18" running a 50mm stem and that provides a little more room in the cockpit. I guess in getting the Evo2 in 18" I'm subconsciously answering my question about 16 or 18.


    Quote Originally Posted by TampaDave View Post
    Crosslake has a bunch of SLX cranks up for auction on ebay right now; once you take the rings off there's not a dime's worth of difference between those and XT cranks. The_bikesmiths have some Sugino XD cranks up for $65 shipped.
    My spare chainring is a direct-mount that fits Sram. I've scored a set of new x9's w/BB that should be a good fit (running a set these on the 456 carbon too. Ahh, parts consistency)

    Quote Originally Posted by TampaDave View Post
    Haven't seen any bodacious deals on headsets, and I've been looking. (Except for a vintage NOS shimano XT 1 1/8 threaded for $34 BOOM got the last one).
    I ordered up a FSA Orbit MX in blue when I ordered the frame. Inexpensive enough, and Blue!

    Quote Originally Posted by TampaDave View Post
    Great frame. Smooth like butter, climbs like a billy-goat. Handles great, I've been amazed. Numbers don't do it justice.
    Thanks again. Looking forward to answering my, "is Steel really real" question.

    Anyone can recommend a fairly inexpensive dropper post in 30.9?

  46. #146
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    Let me know what you think about that headset, I've heard mixed reviews but I'm kinda into art bikes now and well color matters

  47. #147
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    I'm running an Orbit MX (in blue!) on my 456 and its been good for me for the last two years. I'm no hardcore rider but its stood up to Michigan single track and a small amount of jumps/drops.

    I'm saving up for some Velocity Blunt 35 rims (30id, 35od) and hope pro 2's (if they go on sale). Anyone else running rims that wide on their Evo II?

  48. #148
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    Built this frame up with spare parts just before the holidays before I got all into single speeding. I have yet to take this on a worthy trail, but I manage to find a wtb rocket saddle and moved the B17 onto a folding bike.

  49. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by kyle_vk View Post
    I'm running an Orbit MX (in blue!) on my 456 and its been good for me for the last two years. I'm no hardcore rider but its stood up to Michigan single track and a small amount of jumps/drops.
    Cool. I pulled the trigger on a red one, to go with the "ketchup and mustard" color scheme. Cartridge bearing, o-rings. Looks about equivalent to Cane Creek 40. Seems light, which is fine with me.


    I'm saving up for some Velocity Blunt 35 rims (30id, 35od) and hope pro 2's (if they go on sale). Anyone else running rims that wide on their Evo II?
    Until somebody chimes in who's actually done it, I'll throw some numbers out there for ya that might help.

    Right now, I'm running an Ikon 2.35 on a 26mm id rim, nice profile, 57mm wide (same as my Ardent 2.4). Seatstay clearance is 72mm, chainstay is more. Same tire on Blunt 35 should be ~62mm.

    On my other bike, I have an XR2 2.2 on an i29 rim, it's also 57mm.

    Both have excellent profiles on wide rims. Pick your contact patch, compliance and clearance. The Ikon is a gorgeous perfect rear tire imo and it's a beast, should set up like a champ on the Blunt 35.

  50. #150
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    "Ketchup and Mustard." 456 evo ii rigid 69er.
    16" frame
    OS Bikes fork, 435mm AC, 50mm offset
    Pacenti DL31 rims, BHS hubs
    XT 165mm cranks w/ Cromag 32t cr
    Zee 10spd rd
    BB7 brakes, speed dial levers
    Thomson setback post, Brooks Cambium seat

    Still kinda messing around with front tire, stem and bars. That 2.35 Ikon out back is the bomb, totally the right tire for this bike.

    Not a terrible way to go rigid. However, knowing what I know now, I probably would have gone blunt 35 rims f&r, 650b front, On-One MKM carbon fork 450/50. Still gets you at the same basic geo as running a 26x26 with a 120mm fork, but your trail numbers get down into the 70s. Might try it someday.
    Last edited by TampaDave; 02-12-2016 at 09:18 AM.

  51. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by TampaDave View Post


    "Ketchup and Mustard." 456 evo ii rigid 69er.
    16" frame
    OS Bikes fork, 535mm AC, 50mm offset
    Pacenti DL31 rims, BHS hubs
    XT 165mm cranks w/ Cromag 32t cr
    Zee 10spd rd
    BB7 brakes, speed dial levers
    Thomson setback post, Brooks Cambium seat

    Still kinda messing around with front tire, stem and bars. That 2.35 Ikon out back is the bomb, totally the right tire for this bike.

    Not a terrible way to go rigid. However, knowing what I know now, I probably would have gone blunt 35 rims f&r, 650b front, On-One MKM carbon fork 450/50. Still gets you at the same basic geo as running a 26x26 with a 120mm fork, but your trail numbers get down into the 70s. Might try it someday.
    Cool set up! do you mean 435mm AC on that OS Bikes fork though? 535mm would be REALLy Tall.

  52. #152
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    ^TY. Yes the fork is 435! My teeny little legs wouldn't touch the ground.

    Nice fork, not too heavy, very comfy on the trail.

    Trail numbers are in the upper 90's. Handling is light enough, it just wants to run wide in turns a little bit. Gotta keep an eye on it. "We like you please" indeed. OTOH I reduced my wheelbase by ~14mm. Something to be said for that.

    Haven't given up on the "69er" concept totally, in fact I acquired one of the last new Trek 69er ss frames, they are on closeout.

    Also hope to build up a Carver 96er later this year, I know you have or had one. That'll be a B6er most likely. I know it'll take 650b out back (looks like the Trek might, too) but I think we need some beef back there. Would rather have the extra volume than another quarter-inch of radius.

    Really loving On-One these days. Once I'm done with the Trek, I plan to build up an Inbred as a B6er. The 456 is a great frame but the Inbred build is for a petite woman and that looks like a nice frame for someone who doesn't want too far a reach to the bars.

  53. #153
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    Untitled by tk_1971, on Flickr

    Latest pic. No problems climbing, but had a pinch flat going down (aggressively) this past weekend. Going to convert to budget tubeless and trying again.
    Last edited by tk1971; 05-13-2016 at 12:35 PM. Reason: updated the picture as of 4/2016

  54. #154
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    456 Evo II-1043995d1453244288-all-mountain-hardtail-thread-post-up-yours-20160119_142306.jpg
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    Here's mine.

    XL 456evo2
    Lyrik rc2dh lowered to 130mm
    stans flows
    2x9 XT with sram ratio gripshift
    XT brakes
    Gravity dropper 5" seatpost from 2008
    3" riser bars and a sparkly red schwinn saddle

    I've had it a little over 2 years and it's so so rad. The fork is a fairly new addition (off my big bike) and it's incredible here. No hand fatigue on trails you'd typically ride a DH bike.
    "Things that are complex are not useful, Things that are useful are simple."
    Mikhail Kalashnikov

  55. #155
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    ^ Nice bike. Like the red and that saddle is the shiznit.

  56. #156
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    Here's my recent winter build. many parts were pre-existing in my parts bins, so many so I only needed a frame, headset, and crankset.

    Project: FrankenBike

    456 Evo2 18"

    bars used to be white. I sanded and sanded and sanded and sanded then polished
    I also really dig making custom headcaps, so there you go.

    456 Evo II-fullsizerender-2.jpg

    456 Evo II-fullsizerender.jpg

  57. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    Project: FrankenBike

    Click image for larger version. 

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    That's AWESOME! How did you do that?

    The flaming 36 is pretty sweet too.
    "Things that are complex are not useful, Things that are useful are simple."
    Mikhail Kalashnikov

  58. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottzg View Post
    That's AWESOME! How did you do that?

    The flaming 36 is pretty sweet too.
    Thanks! I work up the design myself then submit the art through the custom services at KustomCaps - Laser-Etched Custom Bicycle Headset Caps in 10 anodized colors. Your bike wants one.

    The fire 36 I re-painted years ago.

  59. #159
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    Re: bars, I've been thinking about polishing up some anodized bars. Was gonna try the Easy-Off method, those look nice though, maybe sanding is the way to go huh

  60. #160
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    I've used easy-off to strip anodizing off. Works great but still requires sanding to polish 'em up. My bars were painted so I just did sanding. A lot.

  61. #161
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    Well here she is, after reading this forum i just had to have one.
    Mine is custom built but also a very close replica of the factory deore model.
    forks are 140 mm recon airs that were a lucky find on ebay. I cant recomend on-one smorgasbord tyres enough.
    one one wheels and bars and grips.
    My brother has one too but with marzochi forks.
    love the look of yours bad andy! nice custom work.

  62. #162
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    Absolutely love this bike, it took me a long while to get what i wanted. I had a 90's univega but that was way too flexible then i rode a mates inbred and thought that i just needed a more modern bike so i bought a genesis latitude but that was too stiff then when a evo 2 frame came along at a great price i just had to have it.
    thankyou to everyone that posted on here its been a great help.

  63. #163
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    I just finished rebuilding my 26er HT onto a 456 Evo II frame over the weekend with a Rockshox Sektor 150mm fork. Only had it out for 1 easy ride so far, but I'm loving the feel of it.

    It climbs well, pedals nicely, feels very stable under braking and on descents and is comfy to ride. And when I lower the fork to 120mm, it sharpens up a bit, climbs even better and pedals like a rocket on flat ground, yet is still fairly relaxed (especially coming from my old frame with 10 year old XC geometery which was much steeper up front and had a much shorter wheelbase).

    Basically, it feels like a great all around bike. From what I've felt so far, I'd say that chances are, anything that it's not happy doing is something I'm not happy doing either.

    456 Evo II-onfnfal.jpg

  64. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post

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    That is a LOT of accessories. What's up with the ron jeremy stem and the slammed forward saddle?
    "Things that are complex are not useful, Things that are useful are simple."
    Mikhail Kalashnikov

  65. #165
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottzg View Post
    That is a LOT of accessories. What's up with the ron jeremy stem and the slammed forward saddle?
    The saddle is actually just forward of centered on the rails. I had it all the way back to get a good fit on the previous frame (was a shorter frame and I have a long torso) and it made climbing suck, as I had to practically lay on the bars to keep the front wheel down. Hasn't been an issue so far with that placement, but I do need to experiment a little more with position over my next couple of rides to see what keeps my legs happiest.

    Stem is a 60mm. Kinda chunky, but it's one I had lying around, so I figured I might as well use it and see how I like the fit / feel of the bike before buying a lighter one of possibly a different size.

    Accessories-wise, pretty much the only "extra" is the rack. It's on there because it gets used some and I'm too lazy to take it off when I'm not using it (plus, it makes a good rear fender).

    EDIT: After I got home from work, I experimented a bit with saddle position. Ended up moving it back about an inch to find the point where my legs feel good and line up well with the pedals.
    Last edited by comptiger5000; 08-08-2016 at 02:13 PM.

  66. #166
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    Is there any online shops stateside to buy one of these frames?

  67. #167
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    No, go to Planet X, shipping is a little pricey but the frames are really affordable.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  68. #168
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    Upset

    Yesterday I found this nice crack in the seat stay of my 2014 456EvoII. I'm a bit disappointed, I thought that a 2,7kg steel frame was sturdy enough not to be worried about cracks. In this case it's clear that some kind of reicforcement like other bikes have would have prevented this crack.

    456 Evo II-456-crack.jpg
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    A pessimist is an experienced optimist

  69. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pableras View Post
    Yesterday I found this nice crack in the seat stay of my 2014 456EvoII. I'm a bit disappointed, I thought that a 2,7kg steel frame was sturdy enough not to be worried about cracks. In this case it's clear that some kind of reicforcement like other bikes have would have prevented this crack.

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    Crappie deal man....I wish I saw this before I placed my order lastnight for one of these frames. Are they going to cover it?

    Also has anyone tried a tapered fork?

  70. #170
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtsimaras View Post
    Also has anyone tried a tapered fork?
    Tapered fork in an Evo II is a no go. It's a 34mm head tube, so no space for anything other than 1 1/8 straight steerer.

    If you want a tapered fork, get the 45650b with the bigger head tube. It could still be built as a 26 if desired. I kinda wish I'd gone that route, but I'm happy with what I ended up doing with the Evo II, so...

  71. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtsimaras View Post
    Crappie deal man....I wish I saw this before I placed my order lastnight for one of these frames. Are they going to cover it?

    Also has anyone tried a tapered fork?
    The frame is over 2 years old, so the warranty has already expired, I didn't even tried honestly.

    Don't be worried because the frame is pretty strong, however I would avoid doing hops on the rear wheel, because I think this is what generaated the crack (amateur trials rider here).
    A pessimist is an experienced optimist

  72. #172
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    I guess braking while moving backward would stress right there... seems like a good guess re- trials.
    "Things that are complex are not useful, Things that are useful are simple."
    Mikhail Kalashnikov

  73. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
    Tapered fork in an Evo II is a no go. It's a 34mm head tube, so no space for anything other than 1 1/8 straight steerer.

    If you want a tapered fork, get the 45650b with the bigger head tube. It could still be built as a 26 if desired. I kinda wish I'd gone that route, but I'm happy with what I ended up doing with the Evo II, so...
    Thanks picked up a manitou new on amazon with straight steer tube.

  74. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pableras View Post
    The frame is over 2 years old, so the warranty has already expired, I didn't even tried honestly.

    Don't be worried because the frame is pretty strong, however I would avoid doing hops on the rear wheel, because I think this is what generaated the crack (amateur trials rider here).
    Thanks wont be hopping .... give it a try they may refund some or the whole amount. My buddy had a cotic that was outside of warranty and top tube split circular, they covered 50% of cost. Frame was 7 years old way out of warranty... Just be really nice with email

  75. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtsimaras View Post
    Thanks picked up a manitou new on amazon with straight steer tube.
    Perfect! Which one did you go with?

    I ended up going with a 150mm Sektor Gold coil for mine, knowing that it's basically a straight steerer Revelation chassis with a coil spring, so I can upgrade the dampers if desired. Haven't felt the need to upgrade yet, and it's very smooth and nice (I like the feel of a coil fork).

  76. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
    Perfect! Which one did you go with?

    I ended up going with a 150mm Sektor Gold coil for mine, knowing that it's basically a straight steerer Revelation chassis with a coil spring, so I can upgrade the dampers if desired. Haven't felt the need to upgrade yet, and it's very smooth and nice (I like the feel of a coil fork).
    I changed order going with a RockShox Sektor Gold RL Dual Position 150mm Coil as well. Coil are more consistent with rebound etc. Excited.

  77. #177
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    Hi fellas, i hope to offer some insight regarding the sektors--

    the air/coil spring issue is basically immaterial compared to the differences in dampers.

    The sektor silver RL comes with a fairly basic motion control damper. The rebound is an orifice damper (the more quickly you have impacts it gets sucked into its travel and says 'slow down!') and the compression circuit has a way to blow open for big impacts, but that threshold is fairly high and not adjustable. This is a pretty awesome entry-level fork.

    The sektor gold has a turnkey damper- the same rebound but hitting moderate sized impacts will completely overwhelm the damper and whack your hands because the compression is an orifice damper too. This is a really good damper if it's in a disposable OE fork on a new entry level hardtail, but you don't want to buy one of these aftermarket. It's completely outmatched on a 456.

    The sektor gold can accept the guts from a revelation, and that's an EXCELLENT move. The compression assembly can be dropped in in minutes and probably won't require any additional oil to play nicely. As you get faster and more confident replacing the rebound assembly will give you more grip at speed. Revelation guts aren't really amazing, but they're totally decent and a great match for a 456.

    ---


    I've run basically every rockshox damper/spring combo on a long travel hardtail. I currently have a lowered lyrik rc2dh on my 456, which is serving as a backup bike. When i built the 456 up i put a revelation with pike lowers on... happy to help!

    Enjoy your new forks!
    "Things that are complex are not useful, Things that are useful are simple."
    Mikhail Kalashnikov

  78. #178
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    You've got the Gold vs Silver backwards. Silver has the garbage TK damper, Gold has the Motion Control.

    The gold isn't a spectacular fork, but it's a pretty good starting point. I was looking at a Fox 32 for mine, but when I stumbled on a deal for the Sektor for under $400, it was tough to justify spending almost $600 on the Fox, especially when the Sektor was a nice, low maintenance coil setup and can be dropped to 120mm if I ever feel the desire on a long climb.

    I don't end up pushing the 456 frame as hard as a lot of people, so I haven't really out-done what the Sektor can handle. My local trails don't tend to induce the pack-down problem with the lower end rebound damper. I've got the "soft" coil in mine compared to the stock "medium" and end up with right about 20% sag when seated. I usually run the compression on the 3rd click, can't remember where I have the rebound set.

    And I'm figuring when the day comes that I do (or I get bored and need to find something to spend money on), I'll get the Revelation's dual flow rebound damper and the Blackbox Motion Control compression damper and upgrade.

    Plus, on top of cost vs actual performance needs, the Sektor isn't an overly heavy fork, which is nice considering my 456 is about 32 lbs... I'm working on putting that thing on a diet though (light bars and brakes are on order, I'm planning out a lighter wheelset for it at some point too).

  79. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
    You've got the Gold vs Silver backwards. Silver has the garbage TK damper, Gold has the Motion Control.
    Rockshox's website has it backwards hahaha
    456 Evo II-z4eqw4r.png
    "Things that are complex are not useful, Things that are useful are simple."
    Mikhail Kalashnikov

  80. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottzg View Post
    Rockshox's website has it backwards hahaha
    Interesting. I wonder if they changed things around for the new crop of stuff? They're currently listing only the Silver RL as MoCo damping, the Silver and Gold both show as TK. And only the Silver comes in 26" now.

    Very strange, considering my less than a year old Sektor Gold RL is 26", 1 1/8" straight steerer, the steerer tube is aluminum and it has the MoCo damper. They now only show that combo available for the Silver (except with TK instead of MoCo).

  81. #181
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    Interesting mine came today def. the gold ones and its brand spanking new from rockshox. My frame also came yesterday. Both were shipped so quick. I actually really like the rockshox stuff they all seem to work decent and reliable. Fox work good but wow what a pain in the arse...owned numerous examples and they all have been so high maintenance.

  82. #182
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    Just picked up this beast as a backup to my Kona Honzo and am very pleased. Will be putting a 40mm stem on and my Hadley/ Mavic wheelset on once I get them setup tubeless. I'll get updated pics up once I make the chancges .
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 456 Evo II-img_8836.jpg  


  83. #183
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    My 456 got some upgrades last night: New brakes (Hope Race Evo E4, 180mm front, 160 rear) to replace the 185mm BB7 setup I had been running. And a new set of Raceface Next carbon bars.

    I also just ordered a 24t inner chainring for my cranks to get slightly lower gearing without having to use a wider range cassette (changing the 26/36/48 to a 24/36/48). The reason for avoiding the wider range cassette is weight and gear spacing. I could go 10sp or 11sp in the rear to get lower and keep the close spacing (currently running an 11-32 9sp), but that adds weight to the cassette. A 2x11 weighs about the same as a 3x9, so there's no benefit to replacing everything and switching.

    1x won't give me the combo of range and close gearing I want. Makes the most sense to stay with 3x9 for now and then maybe go to 2x11 once I wear out enough parts.

  84. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
    My 456 got some upgrades last night: New brakes (Hope Race Evo E4, 180mm front, 160 rear) to replace the 185mm BB7 setup I had been running. And a new set of Raceface Next carbon bars.

    I also just ordered a 24t inner chainring for my cranks to get slightly lower gearing without having to use a wider range cassette (changing the 26/36/48 to a 24/36/48). The reason for avoiding the wider range cassette is weight and gear spacing. I could go 10sp or 11sp in the rear to get lower and keep the close spacing (currently running an 11-32 9sp), but that adds weight to the cassette. A 2x11 weighs about the same as a 3x9, so there's no benefit to replacing everything and switching.

    1x won't give me the combo of range and close gearing I want. Makes the most sense to stay with 3x9 for now and then maybe go to 2x11 once I wear out enough parts.
    Nice write up about gearing. For now I'm going with a 1x10 speed set up with a one-up hope expander -- reason they are parts laying around. I ordered a 1 crank hopefully my gearing will be ok. I don't think my climbing range will be impacted much but I'm thinking high speed runs will be limited ..... or I need to get my cadence up to 200/min lol.

  85. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtsimaras View Post
    I don't think my climbing range will be impacted much but I'm thinking high speed runs will be limited ..... or I need to get my cadence up to 200/min lol.
    That's exactly what led me to the setup I've got. I don't use the 48-11 all that often, but there are definitely times where it's nice to be heading down a hill on smooth ground and have the ability to keep my legs moving and make up some time by pushing for more speed than gravity alone will give.

  86. #186
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    95% Finished my build might add a chain ring bash guard.
    Build is:
    Formula C1 Brakes 180mm/160mm disc
    ANSWER Pro Taper SL 750 Carbon Handle-Bar
    Shimano XT cassette with 1 up Hope Expander 42T 1x10
    Shimano XT der with SLX Shifter
    KMC Gold Chain
    Fulcrum Red Metal 3 Tubeless only Wheels
    Schwalbe Rocket Ron Performance Dual Compound Folding Tyre 26 x 2.3
    Stans Tubeless Sealant
    RockShox Sektor Gold RL Dual Position 150mm Coil
    Race Face Ride Narrow Wide Single Crankset
    CrankBros Eggbeaters
    Thomson Elite Seatpost
    Wtb Narrow Saddle
    I did a little theme over the word violence as kind of an odd phrase Stock stickers still intact and I 3m filmed most of the frame as well.

    Build weight 26.00 pounds with pedals Size Medum

    456 Evo II-img_20170311_083242669_hdr.jpg456 Evo II-img_20170311_083313291_hdr.jpg456 Evo II-img_20170311_083345134.jpg456 Evo II-img_20170311_083320614_hdr.jpg
    Last edited by jtsimaras; 03-25-2017 at 08:00 AM.

  87. #187
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    26 lbs!? Damn, I need to work on slimming my build down... A lighter wheelset will help and I've got the penalty of a triple crank and FD, but I'm at 32.4 lbs with the rack on mine... I'd love to get it down to 30 without going to crazy.

    Other than saddle and seatpost, I'm not sure how much more there is to give without spending tons of money. I'm already running carbon bars and a stupidly light Wren stem. Wheelset upgrades will get me another 1/2 - 2/3 of a pound, but that still leaves it at almost 32 lbs...

    Mind you, my 32.4 lbs is with the hand pump in its holder on the frame and a multi-tool and tube in the seat pack, but I consider those to be part of the bike weight as the bike is never ridden without them.

  88. #188
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    Thanks my goal was 25.5 but won't complain my wheelset is 1690 grams which is light . Tires are light as well but they kinda lack knobs or sidewall strength. Tubeless well save you around 300-375 grams from what I've experienced from tubeless set ups I've completed in the past. My budget would not have covered actual cost for my build but I had a bunch of stuff from my parts bin

    Quote Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
    26 lbs!? Damn, I need to work on slimming my build down... A lighter wheelset will help and I've got the penalty of a triple crank and FD, but I'm at 32.4 lbs with the rack on mine... I'd love to get it down to 30 without going to crazy.

    Other than saddle and seatpost, I'm not sure how much more there is to give without spending tons of money. I'm already running carbon bars and a stupidly light Wren stem. Wheelset upgrades will get me another 1/2 - 2/3 of a pound, but that still leaves it at almost 32 lbs...

    Mind you, my 32.4 lbs is with the hand pump in its holder on the frame and a multi-tool and tube in the seat pack, but I consider those to be part of the bike weight as the bike is never ridden without them.

  89. #189
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    My current wheelset is about 1900 grams (Mavic XM819s on Hope Pro 2s with DT Comp spokes, brass nipples)

    My planned new build should get close to 1600g depending on a few decisions I haven't made yet. I'm currently planning on going with WTB KOMs (probably i23, maybe i25), either DT Revolution or Sapim Laser spokes, almost definitely staying with brass nipples. I'm debating whether to re-use the current Pro 2 hubs or get something new (probably Pro 4s).

    It's pretty much down to this: do I buy the i23 KOMs, re-use the hubs and have them built locally (or DIY it) or do I get i25 KOMs on Pro4s from Chain Reaction (they don't offer the i23s for custom builds for some reason) and keep the current set around? The second option is only slightly more expensive, so that's the one I'm leaning towards. I just have to convince myself that the extra 20 grams per rim for the i25s isn't a big deal and that the extra width will be fine...

    I'm tubeless already, I just carry a tube as a "just in case". For tires, I'm running 26x2.25 Michelin Wild Grip'R2 Advanced, so not too heavy at a spec-ed 570 grams per tire. Definitely not bad weight-wise for how well they grip (and they roll nicely too).

    For the rest of the bike, if I wanted to start throwing $$$ at it, I could start replacing the XT drivetrain with lighter bits. But it works very well as-is, so... And the wide range / close spacing combo with the current 3x9 makes the bike a great do-everything setup. Cassette is an 11-32, I've got 26/36/48 up front (soon to be 24/36/48). Low enough gears for singletrack, fast enough gears for smooth stuff going downhill and close spacing for sprinting or keeping a comfortable cadence with some weight on the rack.

  90. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
    My current wheelset is about 1900 grams (Mavic XM819s on Hope Pro 2s with DT Comp spokes, brass nipples)

    My planned new build should get close to 1600g depending on a few decisions I haven't made yet. I'm currently planning on going with WTB KOMs (probably i23, maybe i25), either DT Revolution or Sapim Laser spokes, almost definitely staying with brass nipples. I'm debating whether to re-use the current Pro 2 hubs or get something new (probably Pro 4s).

    It's pretty much down to this: do I buy the i23 KOMs, re-use the hubs and have them built locally (or DIY it) or do I get i25 KOMs on Pro4s from Chain Reaction (they don't offer the i23s for custom builds for some reason) and keep the current set around? The second option is only slightly more expensive, so that's the one I'm leaning towards. I just have to convince myself that the extra 20 grams per rim for the i25s isn't a big deal and that the extra width will be fine...

    I'm tubeless already, I just carry a tube as a "just in case". For tires, I'm running 26x2.25 Michelin Wild Grip'R2 Advanced, so not too heavy at a spec-ed 570 grams per tire. Definitely not bad weight-wise for how well they grip (and they roll nicely too).

    For the rest of the bike, if I wanted to start throwing $$$ at it, I could start replacing the XT drivetrain with lighter bits. But it works very well as-is, so... And the wide range / close spacing combo with the current 3x9 makes the bike a great do-everything setup. Cassette is an 11-32, I've got 26/36/48 up front (soon to be 24/36/48). Low enough gears for singletrack, fast enough gears for smooth stuff going downhill and close spacing for sprinting or keeping a comfortable cadence with some weight on the rack.
    Sounds like you will save some weight definitely. Have you ever ran a 2x10 or venture into a 1x10 setup? You will definitely shave a lot of weight by running a 1x10. I was totally hesitant back in 2014 to run a 1x10 on by 29er but gave it a whirl and got use to it. I climb so crazy stuff and have no issues. Only beef is I do run out of top end but that is around 45-50 kms per hour....which really is not a speed most mtb riders can maintain for long periods of time so i'm ok with it. The simplicity of running a 1x setup is nice.

    My thomson seatpost is chopped as well and lighter than most carbon ones... its at 170 grams.

    SAD thing about my build I can't ride it to darn cold out -28 today with wind chill

  91. #191
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    I've thought about 1x, but I'd give up a lot of top end to do it (and those fast gears do see some use on rail trails or the occasional time I throw the slicks on and ride it on the street).

    And a lot of 1x setups focus on trying to get a wide range and end up with huge jumps between gears. I tend to spin more than mash, so I like the close gear spacing (hence the 11-32 cassette instead of an 11-34 or wider).

    I'll probably end up going to a 2x11 eventually when I wear out enough of the current drivetrain bits as it'll let me run newer stuff. But it'll still weigh about the same for equivalent level components (and have similar overall gearing).

  92. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pableras View Post
    Yesterday I found this nice crack in the seat stay of my 2014 456EvoII. I'm a bit disappointed, I thought that a 2,7kg steel frame was sturdy enough not to be worried about cracks. In this case it's clear that some kind of reicforcement like other bikes have would have prevented this crack.

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    Were you trying some trials moves, or got stopped on a hill and locked your brakes and hopped a bit? Because that crack is from locking your brakes and trying to rotate the wheel backwards. If the crack was on the front side, it would be from normal braking.
    I get my boards at Lux-RC.com

  93. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtsimaras View Post

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Who thinks the stickers on my wheels are over kill?

  94. #194
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    This frame is fantastic so fun on trails here. 456 Evo II-img_20170331_211314.jpg

  95. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtsimaras View Post
    Who thinks the stickers on my wheels are over kill?
    Me ;0)

    Just chiming into the thread as I bought a 'cycle of violence' frame last week that I'm building up for my eighteen-year-old son. He's not overly exited about it, but I am.

    At the moment I'm putting a 120mm Fox 32 on it but I have a Sektor that can go up to 150mm so I might try that at some point to see if he likes a longer fork.

    Not impressed with that frame braking. I don't care what you were doing with it, shouldn't have snapped.

    Picture from the thread about 'man caves' but only picture I have of the bare frame. It's not bare any more.

    456 Evo II-021-2-.jpg

  96. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pig View Post
    Me ;0)

    Just chiming into the thread as I bought a 'cycle of violence' frame last week that I'm building up for my eighteen-year-old son. He's not overly exited about it, but I am.

    At the moment I'm putting a 120mm Fox 32 on it but I have a Sektor that can go up to 150mm so I might try that at some point to see if he likes a longer fork.

    Not impressed with that frame braking. I don't care what you were doing with it, shouldn't have snapped.

    Picture from the thread about 'man caves' but only picture I have of the bare frame. It's not bare any more.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Nice he will like it! I run my dual Sektor Gold in long travel mode for everything seems to suit the frame more so over the short travel mode. I keep the rebound 3-4 clicks from fast (Bunny).

  97. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtsimaras View Post
    I run my dual Sektor Gold in long travel mode for everything seems to suit the frame more so over the short travel mode. I keep the rebound 3-4 clicks from fast.
    That's good info, thanks. I've just finished doing up his old bike to sell so attention is on the new bike now. It's got the Fox on it and I'll leave that on for a while then try the Sektor, probably at 140mm.

    One of the problems is that he just rides bikes. He doesn't pay any attention to suspension setting or anything like that so it'll be hard to get him to dial in the fork. It's not something I'm very good at myself so it's kinda the blind leading the blind ;0) I still don't have my own Fox fork adjusted the way I would like it to be.

  98. #198
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    Got the bike finished. Well except for the front dérailleur which hasn't arrived yet. Looks cool, I'll take a picture tomorrow night.

  99. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pig View Post
    Got the bike finished. Well except for the front dérailleur which hasn't arrived yet. Looks cool, I'll take a picture tomorrow night.
    Fantastic

  100. #200
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    Dang I like those yellows!

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pig View Post
    ...just finished doing up his old bike to sell so attention is on the new bike now. It's got the Fox on it and I'll leave that on for a while then try the Sektor, probably at 140mm.

    One of the problems is that he just rides bikes. He doesn't pay any attention to suspension setting or anything like that so it'll be hard to get him to dial in the fork. It's not something I'm very good at myself so it's kinda the blind leading the blind ;0) I still don't have my own Fox fork adjusted the way I would like it to be.
    Scottzg comments are spot on re: the RS forks from that era Pig, much better chassis compared to the 32 ime
    ...

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