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Thread: 456 evo

  1. #101
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    It won't hurt to get things mounted up. If something doesn't fit properly it is worth the time getting threads chased or facing tubes for a correct fit.

    How long ago did you order your bike? I can't wait to get one built up, we're having an early spring and I can't wait to get out on some trails.

  2. #102
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    I got the frame one month ago...but till now I didn`t find the time to build it up...

  3. #103
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    They're HERE

    My wife just called to tell me that my frames showed up today I have all of the parts needed to get one built up for my brother-in-law, and I'm just waiting on the last bits for mine. Cant wait to get building this weekend.

  4. #104
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    What is the frame size of this picture. 16 inches?


    Quote Originally Posted by brant View Post

  5. #105
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    Looks like a 16 to me. I've only got my 18 mocked up s far but it definitely looks taller than that.

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by fantozzi View Post
    Hey is a face milling of the headset and bottom bracket necessary?
    I would recommend the face milling where possible. The head tube of the frame I got was slightly ovalized, maybe due to the welding. One could see this quite well after the face milling inside the tube, where the facing tools created a really round seat for the headset. At the top and bottom always the areas towards the top and down tube had noticeable material taken away with the tools, whilst at the side parts only very small facing traces are visible. Having a good (=round) seat and plain faces facilitates mounting and will increase the lifetime of the headset.

    Facing the BB is mainly important if you use the outer BB cups that are now en vogue. Having faced, parallel tubes will increase their lifetime noticeably. On the frame I got, however, the ISCG mount was not welded perfectly, and it is protruding the BB by 1/2 a mm for half of the diameter. So facing there would have meant to take away quite some parts of the ISCG mount. In such a case I would do the facing only on the left side. Or use plain old square taper BB and cranks... (my solution anyway)

  7. #107
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    I'm curious... will it take a 650b rear wheel?

  8. #108
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    650b - maybe

    Right now I've got a Larson TT 2.35 in the rear and the only area that is at all tight is at the seat stay bridge. (tire height) width is generous on all of the stays, and there is plenty of clearance on the seat tube. I'm not sure how tall of a tire you are planning on running with a 650b, but beyond the 26, 2.35 I've got about a half of an inch, maybe a scosche less available for height.

    I might try running a B later, but I need to find one to barrow first.

  9. #109
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    not enough space in the seat stay bridge for a 650b I think...

    Brant, what about a 160mm fork with adjustable travel for the EVO?

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by fer83 View Post
    not enough space in the seat stay bridge for a 650b I think...

    Brant, what about a 160mm fork with adjustable travel for the EVO?
    I was running a 160mm marzocchi RV fork on the Evo frame, it ripped downhill, even climbed reasonably well for a heavy ass fork. I just switched to a revelation rlt ti 2-step fork and the bike handles loads better and climbs amazing at 150mm. It does all this without feeling like there was any loss of stiffness or downhill prowess. I didn't think the slight height difference would be so noticeable. It probably helps that the revelation is 3lbs lighter than the marzocchi and it is more adjustable too...

    So a height adjustable 160mm fork would work well, as long as it isn't too heavy...
    Buy a f-ing bike maybe you wouldn't be fat

  11. #111
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    Pics of my 456 Evo.... finally. The first one is after the Maximus race when it still had the 160mm Marzocchi RV fork. The second pic is with the new revelation fork mounted. The third is a pic of the revelation fork with the white decals installed.



    Buy a f-ing bike maybe you wouldn't be fat

  12. #112
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    I'll 2nd the 150mm fork. I'm running a Revelation and was concerned about the bikes ability to climb with the front end being so tall, but so far it's been great. I am running a 6 degree stem upside down. I've actually been thinking about flipping the stem to raise my bars because it feels like there is quite a bit of weight on my hands.

    I do think running a 160 fork would be fine, but I'm not sure if I get the point of having tons of travel on the front and nothing out back. This thing is awesome on single track, still haven't tried it out on gnar trails. (I'm going to put on some clipless pedals and try it out a little next week)

    FWIW - I do run a Talas 36 on my FS bike, and use the travel adjust all the time, but on the EVO I don't think I'd ever bother with using it.

  13. #113
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    I understand there is no replaceable derailleur hanger, why is that?

  14. #114
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    replaceable hanger ?

    STEEL FRAME = STRONG replacement isn't needed you can just bend it back if you ever do bend the thing. - or in a really bad case you could re-weld a hanger.

  15. #115
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    Rear 135mm x 9mm axle should fit right ? Or 10mm is necessary ? Sry for stupid questions

  16. #116
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    Rear Hub ?

    Quote Originally Posted by BedarijaEna View Post
    Rear 135mm x 9mm axle should fit right ? Or 10mm is necessary ? Sry for stupid questions
    Standard 135mm axle rear hub is required.

    I believe 9mm is for front hubs and 10mm is for rear hubs, I could be wrong. I'm running a Hope rear hub and it seems tight on the drive side dropout, but it fits. I built up another frame with a Magura hub (made by DT, also a 10mm) and that frame fit a little better.

    So yeah if you've got an old MTB hub that uses a standard QR you should be good to go.

  17. #117
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    Yeah I probably messed up some things Thanks man.

  18. #118
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    new 456 Evo build

    My frame showed up a few days ago and just got it out for the first ride today. This thing is a hoot! So fast and fun; up, down, and especially around the corners.

    Mostly a parts swap from my Salsa Ala Carte, except for a new fork, stem, and handlebars.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 456 evo-photo2.jpg  

    Loud hubs save lives. http://about.me/splat/

  19. #119
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    So, my frame arrived today, and I discovered that one chainstay looks dented.

    Will this affect the performance of the frame? What can I do about this?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 456 evo-20120619_233614.jpg  


  20. #120
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    That "dent" is there for chainring clearance. It's not a mistake.
    Loud hubs save lives. http://about.me/splat/

  21. #121
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    Well, that's one thing less to worry about. Thank you.

  22. #122
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    Hello everyone,

    I ride a giant FS size 15" with an effective top tube of 22", and wanted to get an 456 EVO what size would be suitable for me? I have an inseam 28"-29" and have 100mm fork that I'm thinking of building it up. I mainly ride XC and thinking of trying to be a bit more aggressive with my riding style.
    Thanks in advance for the reply.

  23. #123
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    What length of stem are you using on your Giant? How wide are your bars?

  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikeDave View Post
    What length of stem are you using on your Giant? How wide are your bars?

    BikeDave,
    The length of the stem is 90mm and the bar is around 610mm, I stand 5.6" Its the Giant Yukon SX, thanks again. I wanted to send you the link but the forum won't let me yet....sorry. Big thanks for the help.

  25. #125
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    456 EVO Titanium???



    Sure looks like it.

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