Page 3 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast
Results 101 to 150 of 337

Thread: 456 evo

  1. #101
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    19
    It won't hurt to get things mounted up. If something doesn't fit properly it is worth the time getting threads chased or facing tubes for a correct fit.

    How long ago did you order your bike? I can't wait to get one built up, we're having an early spring and I can't wait to get out on some trails.

  2. #102
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    6
    I got the frame one month ago...but till now I didn`t find the time to build it up...

  3. #103
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    19

    They're HERE

    My wife just called to tell me that my frames showed up today I have all of the parts needed to get one built up for my brother-in-law, and I'm just waiting on the last bits for mine. Cant wait to get building this weekend.

  4. #104
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    129
    What is the frame size of this picture. 16 inches?


    Quote Originally Posted by brant View Post

  5. #105
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    19
    Looks like a 16 to me. I've only got my 18 mocked up s far but it definitely looks taller than that.

  6. #106
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by fantozzi View Post
    Hey is a face milling of the headset and bottom bracket necessary?
    I would recommend the face milling where possible. The head tube of the frame I got was slightly ovalized, maybe due to the welding. One could see this quite well after the face milling inside the tube, where the facing tools created a really round seat for the headset. At the top and bottom always the areas towards the top and down tube had noticeable material taken away with the tools, whilst at the side parts only very small facing traces are visible. Having a good (=round) seat and plain faces facilitates mounting and will increase the lifetime of the headset.

    Facing the BB is mainly important if you use the outer BB cups that are now en vogue. Having faced, parallel tubes will increase their lifetime noticeably. On the frame I got, however, the ISCG mount was not welded perfectly, and it is protruding the BB by 1/2 a mm for half of the diameter. So facing there would have meant to take away quite some parts of the ISCG mount. In such a case I would do the facing only on the left side. Or use plain old square taper BB and cranks... (my solution anyway)

  7. #107
    mtbr member
    Reputation: two-one's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    580
    I'm curious... will it take a 650b rear wheel?

  8. #108
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    19

    650b - maybe

    Right now I've got a Larson TT 2.35 in the rear and the only area that is at all tight is at the seat stay bridge. (tire height) width is generous on all of the stays, and there is plenty of clearance on the seat tube. I'm not sure how tall of a tire you are planning on running with a 650b, but beyond the 26, 2.35 I've got about a half of an inch, maybe a scosche less available for height.

    I might try running a B later, but I need to find one to barrow first.

  9. #109
    mtbr member
    Reputation: fer83's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    181
    not enough space in the seat stay bridge for a 650b I think...

    Brant, what about a 160mm fork with adjustable travel for the EVO?

  10. #110
    mtbr member
    Reputation: unknown-rider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    249
    Quote Originally Posted by fer83 View Post
    not enough space in the seat stay bridge for a 650b I think...

    Brant, what about a 160mm fork with adjustable travel for the EVO?
    I was running a 160mm marzocchi RV fork on the Evo frame, it ripped downhill, even climbed reasonably well for a heavy ass fork. I just switched to a revelation rlt ti 2-step fork and the bike handles loads better and climbs amazing at 150mm. It does all this without feeling like there was any loss of stiffness or downhill prowess. I didn't think the slight height difference would be so noticeable. It probably helps that the revelation is 3lbs lighter than the marzocchi and it is more adjustable too...

    So a height adjustable 160mm fork would work well, as long as it isn't too heavy...
    Buy a f-ing bike maybe you wouldn't be fat

  11. #111
    mtbr member
    Reputation: unknown-rider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    249
    Pics of my 456 Evo.... finally. The first one is after the Maximus race when it still had the 160mm Marzocchi RV fork. The second pic is with the new revelation fork mounted. The third is a pic of the revelation fork with the white decals installed.



    Buy a f-ing bike maybe you wouldn't be fat

  12. #112
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    19
    I'll 2nd the 150mm fork. I'm running a Revelation and was concerned about the bikes ability to climb with the front end being so tall, but so far it's been great. I am running a 6 degree stem upside down. I've actually been thinking about flipping the stem to raise my bars because it feels like there is quite a bit of weight on my hands.

    I do think running a 160 fork would be fine, but I'm not sure if I get the point of having tons of travel on the front and nothing out back. This thing is awesome on single track, still haven't tried it out on gnar trails. (I'm going to put on some clipless pedals and try it out a little next week)

    FWIW - I do run a Talas 36 on my FS bike, and use the travel adjust all the time, but on the EVO I don't think I'd ever bother with using it.

  13. #113
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    4
    I understand there is no replaceable derailleur hanger, why is that?

  14. #114
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    19

    replaceable hanger ?

    STEEL FRAME = STRONG replacement isn't needed you can just bend it back if you ever do bend the thing. - or in a really bad case you could re-weld a hanger.

  15. #115
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    4
    Rear 135mm x 9mm axle should fit right ? Or 10mm is necessary ? Sry for stupid questions

  16. #116
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    19

    Rear Hub ?

    Quote Originally Posted by BedarijaEna View Post
    Rear 135mm x 9mm axle should fit right ? Or 10mm is necessary ? Sry for stupid questions
    Standard 135mm axle rear hub is required.

    I believe 9mm is for front hubs and 10mm is for rear hubs, I could be wrong. I'm running a Hope rear hub and it seems tight on the drive side dropout, but it fits. I built up another frame with a Magura hub (made by DT, also a 10mm) and that frame fit a little better.

    So yeah if you've got an old MTB hub that uses a standard QR you should be good to go.

  17. #117
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    4
    Yeah I probably messed up some things Thanks man.

  18. #118
    mtbr member
    Reputation: splatworldwide's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    221

    new 456 Evo build

    My frame showed up a few days ago and just got it out for the first ride today. This thing is a hoot! So fast and fun; up, down, and especially around the corners.

    Mostly a parts swap from my Salsa Ala Carte, except for a new fork, stem, and handlebars.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 456 evo-photo2.jpg  

    Loud hubs save lives. http://about.me/splat/

  19. #119
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    4
    So, my frame arrived today, and I discovered that one chainstay looks dented.

    Will this affect the performance of the frame? What can I do about this?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 456 evo-20120619_233614.jpg  


  20. #120
    mtbr member
    Reputation: splatworldwide's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    221
    That "dent" is there for chainring clearance. It's not a mistake.
    Loud hubs save lives. http://about.me/splat/

  21. #121
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    4
    Well, that's one thing less to worry about. Thank you.

  22. #122
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    3
    Hello everyone,

    I ride a giant FS size 15" with an effective top tube of 22", and wanted to get an 456 EVO what size would be suitable for me? I have an inseam 28"-29" and have 100mm fork that I'm thinking of building it up. I mainly ride XC and thinking of trying to be a bit more aggressive with my riding style.
    Thanks in advance for the reply.

  23. #123
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    19
    What length of stem are you using on your Giant? How wide are your bars?

  24. #124
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    3
    Quote Originally Posted by BikeDave View Post
    What length of stem are you using on your Giant? How wide are your bars?

    BikeDave,
    The length of the stem is 90mm and the bar is around 610mm, I stand 5.6" Its the Giant Yukon SX, thanks again. I wanted to send you the link but the forum won't let me yet....sorry. Big thanks for the help.

  25. #125
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,458
    456 EVO Titanium???



    Sure looks like it.
    konahonzo

  26. #126
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by tango11 View Post
    BikeDave,
    The length of the stem is 90mm and the bar is around 610mm, I stand 5.6" Its the Giant Yukon SX, thanks again. I wanted to send you the link but the forum won't let me yet....sorry. Big thanks for the help.
    I would really recommend running a shorter stem on this frame (like a 70 or even a 50). The 14" has an effective TT of about 22.5"
    16" has an effective TT of about 23.3"

    You may want to PM Brant, but both frames will work for you. Personally I'd go with the 14" frame, and get a 70mm Stem. This will keep you on a smaller (more playful) frame size while keeping your cockpit the same length. If you want to go more aggressive later, you can stick with the 14" frame, and swap in a 50mm stem, with a wider bar.

  27. #127
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    3
    BikeDave,

    Thanks for the reply again, yeah I was thinking of the same thing as well of getting the 14" frame because of the top tube length, I'll just probably put the post up a bit on a fire trail so I could pedal better but anyways is 100mm would be alright or the fork? because I have a suntour epicon lying around.

    I hope "Brant" can read this and will give me his side of opinion, cheers and thank you.

  28. #128
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    4
    I currently have 130mm fork and would like to use it on EVO... Can I still be fast enough with 130mm fork or another 2 cm to 150mm means significant change(in angles...)?

    Thanks.

  29. #129
    mtbr member
    Reputation: unknown-rider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    249
    The 130mm will work fine, I used a 130mm fork on my 456 evo and it handled very well. Not too fast and not too slow. You can run any fork from 100mm to 160mm on this frame depending on how you want the handling to feel. The shorter the fork the quicker (XC) the handling and the longer fork will make it slower handling (more downhill oriented). I have my 160mm fork back on it now and like the way it feels.
    Buy a f-ing bike maybe you wouldn't be fat

  30. #130
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    4
    Thanks for reply . I prefer to be low on front, so 130mm should do it. I'm still not sure about the frame size. I'm 183cm that is 6'1" i believe?, but i have long legs. Should i go for 18" or 20".

  31. #131
    mtbr member
    Reputation: strikerkidNY's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    29
    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    456 EVO Titanium???



    Sure looks like it.
    If you ask me, it looks like the latest incarnation of the 456Ti.

  32. #132
    mtbr member
    Reputation: unknown-rider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    249
    Quote Originally Posted by BedarijaEna View Post
    Thanks for reply . I prefer to be low on front, so 130mm should do it. I'm still not sure about the frame size. I'm 183cm that is 6'1" i believe?, but i have long legs. Should i go for 18" or 20".
    It all depends on how well your current bike fits. If you like length of your current bike then take the toptube length of your old bike and add it to the stem length that'll give you a measurement to compare to the toptube (effective) length of the 18" and 20" frames added to the short 40mm or 50mm stem that these bikes are designed for.

    hope that helps!
    Buy a f-ing bike maybe you wouldn't be fat

  33. #133
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    2,385
    Are these frames available in the U.S. at the moment? The website doesn't let me choose a size. I'm not looking to purchase one just yet, but the idea is in my head, so...

  34. #134
    mtbr member
    Reputation: unknown-rider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    249
    If they aren't available thru the US distributor you can always order it directly from On One. That's what I did and it didn't take long for it to ship to me here in Pennsylvania.
    Buy a f-ing bike maybe you wouldn't be fat

  35. #135
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    2,385
    How much did you pay in fees/taxes/duties/VAT?

  36. #136
    mtbr member
    Reputation: unknown-rider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    249
    If you are in the US you won't pay the VAT or any other fees other than shipping. If you go on On One's website you can add the 456 evo frame to your cart and it'll show you the price with shipping to the US, just make sure to change the settings to USA and dollars instead of the UK and pounds.
    Buy a f-ing bike maybe you wouldn't be fat

  37. #137
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,458
    Quote Originally Posted by unknown-rider View Post
    If you are in the US you won't pay the VAT or any other fees other than shipping. If you go on On One's website you can add the 456 evo frame to your cart and it'll show you the price with shipping to the US, just make sure to change the settings to USA and dollars instead of the UK and pounds.
    Not if On-One UK ships it via UPS or FedEX, I can't remember which one they used for my 456 SS frame, but I ended up getting an invoice from one of them to pay $70 in duty fees. I wasn't happy as the previous Ragley frame from CRC I didn't pay a cent extra.
    konahonzo

  38. #138
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    361
    any fully built weights? Anymore pictures of complete EVO's?

  39. #139
    mtbr member
    Reputation: unknown-rider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    249
    Quote Originally Posted by 92SE-R View Post
    any fully built weights? Anymore pictures of complete EVO's?
    My 456 evo has weighed anywhere between 28-35lbs depending on what parts I've had on it. At the present moment it weighs in at 32lbs with the dh crank and the heavy ass marzocchi 55 fork. The revelation fork I had on it before dropped 3lbs off and the old XC crank about a pound. It still climbs very well even with the 160mm fork and weighing in at such a high weight for a hardtail. I will get pictures up later when I have access to a real computer.
    Buy a f-ing bike maybe you wouldn't be fat

  40. #140
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    9
    I just finished mine last night. Still need to install the chainguide which arrived today. Full bike weighed in at 12.34kg (27.2lbs) considering I'm running a heavy wheelset (MTX 31 rims) and a RS Lyrik its pretty light.

    I'm hoping to get it down nearer 11.5kgs (25.35lbs) with a lighter stem, wheelset and brakes.

    I cant post pics cause I dont have enough posts

  41. #141
    mtbr member
    Reputation: unknown-rider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    249
    Quote Originally Posted by bodger View Post
    I just finished mine last night. Still need to install the chainguide which arrived today. Full bike weighed in at 12.34kg (27.2lbs) considering I'm running a heavy wheelset (MTX 31 rims) and a RS Lyrik its pretty light.

    I'm hoping to get it down nearer 11.5kgs (25.35lbs) with a lighter stem, wheelset and brakes.

    I cant post pics cause I dont have enough posts
    A lyrik isn't exactly heavy for a 160mm fork, try 6.5lb fork like my marzocchi, now that's heavy! Ha. What other parts are you running to get your bike so light?
    Buy a f-ing bike maybe you wouldn't be fat

  42. #142
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    1
    Hi. I'm getting a 456 evo this week. I will be running my fork at 140mm. The problem I'm having is deciding what size to get. I've read up on it and I'm kind of in the middle of 14 and 16. I'm 5"6 and had myself bike fitted last week (had knee pains). The guys said I should get a bike with 15-16 inch seat tube and my top tube should be around 21 inches. He also said my seat height to the center of my bottom bracket should be 700 mm(It actually feels really high or maybe I'm just not used to it). These were just guidelines of course. The thing is the bike shops here in the Philippines don't really let you test drive the bikes. I'm gonna be using it for aggressive trail and all mountain and fun downhill. I figured you all would be the best source of knowledge to help me out. I'm leaning toward the size 14. Apologies for the long post. I just don't want to get the wrong size frame for my size and riding style. Thanks!

  43. #143
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dmx1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    424
    Can someone tell what the weight of a 16" frame is ?

  44. #144
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    19

    Weight ?

    I don't have an exact number, but I'd expect between 5 to 5.5 pounds. Its not really an XC race frame, and it is made out of steel. If you're really worried about weight spend a few hundred extra and go for the carbon model, or better yet save your money for some lighter wheels.

    Mine is an 18" frame and built up with pedals it's coming in around 28.5 pounds. I think I might move to some different tires, and drop another pound or two, but if you're shooting for much lower weight than that you're going to be spending some coin. - That said, this thing is a blast to ride!

    D.

  45. #145
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dmx1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    424
    No XC use intended, just what I call super XC , or light AM. Looking to replace my Heckler frame for the winter, that thing eats pivot bearings.

  46. #146
    mtbr member
    Reputation: fer83's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    181
    finally finished! it takes forever to rebuild the thing properly but hey! its a sweet bike, loving it so much
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 456 evo-dscn0475-small.jpg  

    456 evo-dscn0483-small.jpg  


  47. #147
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    299
    considering buying one of these, hoping for some help interpreting the geo numbers. i'm 6'2" with an unhealthy aversion to bikes that look like gates: i'm considering buying an 18" frame and running a nice long seatpost... but the 600mm ett kind of scares me. except i notice that, at least according to this drawing, on-one doesn't measure ett like most companies:

    seems they measure the effective top tube length from the head tube to a line running vertically from the top of the seat tube. afaik, most companies measure the effective top tube length from the head tube to a line running along the same angle as the frame's seat tube. so, the top tube on the 18" evo should feel longer than the 23.7" spec number suggests. or maybe this is just a crappy drawing? could someone with an 18" frame measure the ett the normal way and let me know what it comes out to - or brant, could you set the record straight? thanks!

  48. #148
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    19

    Top Tube ?

    Just measured mine with a tape. By eyeballing it, and not using a level, it looks like the numbers listed by On-One show the "Correct" Effective TT length. I have an 18" frame and measured out from the center of the top tube to the center of my post at about level and it looks on par with the 23.7" figure.

    FWIW I'm 5'11" and am running a 70mm stem, and I use this bike for quite a bit of climbing.

  49. #149
    mtbr member
    Reputation: brant's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,842
    Quote Originally Posted by boomforeal View Post
    considering buying one of these, hoping for some help interpreting the geo numbers. i'm 6'2" with an unhealthy aversion to bikes that look like gates: i'm considering buying an 18" frame and running a nice long seatpost... but the 600mm ett kind of scares me. except i notice that, at least according to this drawing, on-one doesn't measure ett like most companies:

    seems they measure the effective top tube length from the head tube to a line running vertically from the top of the seat tube. afaik, most companies measure the effective top tube length from the head tube to a line running along the same angle as the frame's seat tube. so, the top tube on the 18" evo should feel longer than the 23.7" spec number suggests. or maybe this is just a crappy drawing? could someone with an 18" frame measure the ett the normal way and let me know what it comes out to - or brant, could you set the record straight? thanks!
    That diagram is bollocks.

    Sorry.

  50. #150
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    299
    Quote Originally Posted by brant View Post
    That diagram is bollocks.

    Sorry.
    that's okay brant

    but since you are in a giving mood, can you shed any light on this?


Page 3 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •