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Thread: 456 evo

  1. #101
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    It won't hurt to get things mounted up. If something doesn't fit properly it is worth the time getting threads chased or facing tubes for a correct fit.

    How long ago did you order your bike? I can't wait to get one built up, we're having an early spring and I can't wait to get out on some trails.

  2. #102
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    I got the frame one month ago...but till now I didn`t find the time to build it up...

  3. #103
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    They're HERE

    My wife just called to tell me that my frames showed up today I have all of the parts needed to get one built up for my brother-in-law, and I'm just waiting on the last bits for mine. Cant wait to get building this weekend.

  4. #104
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    What is the frame size of this picture. 16 inches?


    Quote Originally Posted by brant View Post

  5. #105
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    Looks like a 16 to me. I've only got my 18 mocked up s far but it definitely looks taller than that.

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by fantozzi View Post
    Hey is a face milling of the headset and bottom bracket necessary?
    I would recommend the face milling where possible. The head tube of the frame I got was slightly ovalized, maybe due to the welding. One could see this quite well after the face milling inside the tube, where the facing tools created a really round seat for the headset. At the top and bottom always the areas towards the top and down tube had noticeable material taken away with the tools, whilst at the side parts only very small facing traces are visible. Having a good (=round) seat and plain faces facilitates mounting and will increase the lifetime of the headset.

    Facing the BB is mainly important if you use the outer BB cups that are now en vogue. Having faced, parallel tubes will increase their lifetime noticeably. On the frame I got, however, the ISCG mount was not welded perfectly, and it is protruding the BB by 1/2 a mm for half of the diameter. So facing there would have meant to take away quite some parts of the ISCG mount. In such a case I would do the facing only on the left side. Or use plain old square taper BB and cranks... (my solution anyway)

  7. #107
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    I'm curious... will it take a 650b rear wheel?

  8. #108
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    650b - maybe

    Right now I've got a Larson TT 2.35 in the rear and the only area that is at all tight is at the seat stay bridge. (tire height) width is generous on all of the stays, and there is plenty of clearance on the seat tube. I'm not sure how tall of a tire you are planning on running with a 650b, but beyond the 26, 2.35 I've got about a half of an inch, maybe a scosche less available for height.

    I might try running a B later, but I need to find one to barrow first.

  9. #109
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    not enough space in the seat stay bridge for a 650b I think...

    Brant, what about a 160mm fork with adjustable travel for the EVO?

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by fer83 View Post
    not enough space in the seat stay bridge for a 650b I think...

    Brant, what about a 160mm fork with adjustable travel for the EVO?
    I was running a 160mm marzocchi RV fork on the Evo frame, it ripped downhill, even climbed reasonably well for a heavy ass fork. I just switched to a revelation rlt ti 2-step fork and the bike handles loads better and climbs amazing at 150mm. It does all this without feeling like there was any loss of stiffness or downhill prowess. I didn't think the slight height difference would be so noticeable. It probably helps that the revelation is 3lbs lighter than the marzocchi and it is more adjustable too...

    So a height adjustable 160mm fork would work well, as long as it isn't too heavy...
    Buy a f-ing bike maybe you wouldn't be fat

  11. #111
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    Pics of my 456 Evo.... finally. The first one is after the Maximus race when it still had the 160mm Marzocchi RV fork. The second pic is with the new revelation fork mounted. The third is a pic of the revelation fork with the white decals installed.



    Buy a f-ing bike maybe you wouldn't be fat

  12. #112
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    I'll 2nd the 150mm fork. I'm running a Revelation and was concerned about the bikes ability to climb with the front end being so tall, but so far it's been great. I am running a 6 degree stem upside down. I've actually been thinking about flipping the stem to raise my bars because it feels like there is quite a bit of weight on my hands.

    I do think running a 160 fork would be fine, but I'm not sure if I get the point of having tons of travel on the front and nothing out back. This thing is awesome on single track, still haven't tried it out on gnar trails. (I'm going to put on some clipless pedals and try it out a little next week)

    FWIW - I do run a Talas 36 on my FS bike, and use the travel adjust all the time, but on the EVO I don't think I'd ever bother with using it.

  13. #113
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    I understand there is no replaceable derailleur hanger, why is that?

  14. #114
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    replaceable hanger ?

    STEEL FRAME = STRONG replacement isn't needed you can just bend it back if you ever do bend the thing. - or in a really bad case you could re-weld a hanger.

  15. #115
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    Rear 135mm x 9mm axle should fit right ? Or 10mm is necessary ? Sry for stupid questions

  16. #116
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    Rear Hub ?

    Quote Originally Posted by BedarijaEna View Post
    Rear 135mm x 9mm axle should fit right ? Or 10mm is necessary ? Sry for stupid questions
    Standard 135mm axle rear hub is required.

    I believe 9mm is for front hubs and 10mm is for rear hubs, I could be wrong. I'm running a Hope rear hub and it seems tight on the drive side dropout, but it fits. I built up another frame with a Magura hub (made by DT, also a 10mm) and that frame fit a little better.

    So yeah if you've got an old MTB hub that uses a standard QR you should be good to go.

  17. #117
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    Yeah I probably messed up some things Thanks man.

  18. #118
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    new 456 Evo build

    My frame showed up a few days ago and just got it out for the first ride today. This thing is a hoot! So fast and fun; up, down, and especially around the corners.

    Mostly a parts swap from my Salsa Ala Carte, except for a new fork, stem, and handlebars.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 456 evo-photo2.jpg  

    Loud hubs save lives. http://about.me/splat/

  19. #119
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    So, my frame arrived today, and I discovered that one chainstay looks dented.

    Will this affect the performance of the frame? What can I do about this?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 456 evo-20120619_233614.jpg  


  20. #120
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    That "dent" is there for chainring clearance. It's not a mistake.
    Loud hubs save lives. http://about.me/splat/

  21. #121
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    Well, that's one thing less to worry about. Thank you.

  22. #122
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    Hello everyone,

    I ride a giant FS size 15" with an effective top tube of 22", and wanted to get an 456 EVO what size would be suitable for me? I have an inseam 28"-29" and have 100mm fork that I'm thinking of building it up. I mainly ride XC and thinking of trying to be a bit more aggressive with my riding style.
    Thanks in advance for the reply.

  23. #123
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    What length of stem are you using on your Giant? How wide are your bars?

  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikeDave View Post
    What length of stem are you using on your Giant? How wide are your bars?

    BikeDave,
    The length of the stem is 90mm and the bar is around 610mm, I stand 5.6" Its the Giant Yukon SX, thanks again. I wanted to send you the link but the forum won't let me yet....sorry. Big thanks for the help.

  25. #125
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    456 EVO Titanium???



    Sure looks like it.
    konahonzo

  26. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by tango11 View Post
    BikeDave,
    The length of the stem is 90mm and the bar is around 610mm, I stand 5.6" Its the Giant Yukon SX, thanks again. I wanted to send you the link but the forum won't let me yet....sorry. Big thanks for the help.
    I would really recommend running a shorter stem on this frame (like a 70 or even a 50). The 14" has an effective TT of about 22.5"
    16" has an effective TT of about 23.3"

    You may want to PM Brant, but both frames will work for you. Personally I'd go with the 14" frame, and get a 70mm Stem. This will keep you on a smaller (more playful) frame size while keeping your cockpit the same length. If you want to go more aggressive later, you can stick with the 14" frame, and swap in a 50mm stem, with a wider bar.

  27. #127
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    BikeDave,

    Thanks for the reply again, yeah I was thinking of the same thing as well of getting the 14" frame because of the top tube length, I'll just probably put the post up a bit on a fire trail so I could pedal better but anyways is 100mm would be alright or the fork? because I have a suntour epicon lying around.

    I hope "Brant" can read this and will give me his side of opinion, cheers and thank you.

  28. #128
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    I currently have 130mm fork and would like to use it on EVO... Can I still be fast enough with 130mm fork or another 2 cm to 150mm means significant change(in angles...)?

    Thanks.

  29. #129
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    The 130mm will work fine, I used a 130mm fork on my 456 evo and it handled very well. Not too fast and not too slow. You can run any fork from 100mm to 160mm on this frame depending on how you want the handling to feel. The shorter the fork the quicker (XC) the handling and the longer fork will make it slower handling (more downhill oriented). I have my 160mm fork back on it now and like the way it feels.
    Buy a f-ing bike maybe you wouldn't be fat

  30. #130
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    Thanks for reply . I prefer to be low on front, so 130mm should do it. I'm still not sure about the frame size. I'm 183cm that is 6'1" i believe?, but i have long legs. Should i go for 18" or 20".

  31. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    456 EVO Titanium???



    Sure looks like it.
    If you ask me, it looks like the latest incarnation of the 456Ti.

  32. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by BedarijaEna View Post
    Thanks for reply . I prefer to be low on front, so 130mm should do it. I'm still not sure about the frame size. I'm 183cm that is 6'1" i believe?, but i have long legs. Should i go for 18" or 20".
    It all depends on how well your current bike fits. If you like length of your current bike then take the toptube length of your old bike and add it to the stem length that'll give you a measurement to compare to the toptube (effective) length of the 18" and 20" frames added to the short 40mm or 50mm stem that these bikes are designed for.

    hope that helps!
    Buy a f-ing bike maybe you wouldn't be fat

  33. #133
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    Are these frames available in the U.S. at the moment? The website doesn't let me choose a size. I'm not looking to purchase one just yet, but the idea is in my head, so...

  34. #134
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    If they aren't available thru the US distributor you can always order it directly from On One. That's what I did and it didn't take long for it to ship to me here in Pennsylvania.
    Buy a f-ing bike maybe you wouldn't be fat

  35. #135
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    How much did you pay in fees/taxes/duties/VAT?

  36. #136
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    If you are in the US you won't pay the VAT or any other fees other than shipping. If you go on On One's website you can add the 456 evo frame to your cart and it'll show you the price with shipping to the US, just make sure to change the settings to USA and dollars instead of the UK and pounds.
    Buy a f-ing bike maybe you wouldn't be fat

  37. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by unknown-rider View Post
    If you are in the US you won't pay the VAT or any other fees other than shipping. If you go on On One's website you can add the 456 evo frame to your cart and it'll show you the price with shipping to the US, just make sure to change the settings to USA and dollars instead of the UK and pounds.
    Not if On-One UK ships it via UPS or FedEX, I can't remember which one they used for my 456 SS frame, but I ended up getting an invoice from one of them to pay $70 in duty fees. I wasn't happy as the previous Ragley frame from CRC I didn't pay a cent extra.
    konahonzo

  38. #138
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    any fully built weights? Anymore pictures of complete EVO's?

  39. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92SE-R View Post
    any fully built weights? Anymore pictures of complete EVO's?
    My 456 evo has weighed anywhere between 28-35lbs depending on what parts I've had on it. At the present moment it weighs in at 32lbs with the dh crank and the heavy ass marzocchi 55 fork. The revelation fork I had on it before dropped 3lbs off and the old XC crank about a pound. It still climbs very well even with the 160mm fork and weighing in at such a high weight for a hardtail. I will get pictures up later when I have access to a real computer.
    Buy a f-ing bike maybe you wouldn't be fat

  40. #140
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    I just finished mine last night. Still need to install the chainguide which arrived today. Full bike weighed in at 12.34kg (27.2lbs) considering I'm running a heavy wheelset (MTX 31 rims) and a RS Lyrik its pretty light.

    I'm hoping to get it down nearer 11.5kgs (25.35lbs) with a lighter stem, wheelset and brakes.

    I cant post pics cause I dont have enough posts

  41. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by bodger View Post
    I just finished mine last night. Still need to install the chainguide which arrived today. Full bike weighed in at 12.34kg (27.2lbs) considering I'm running a heavy wheelset (MTX 31 rims) and a RS Lyrik its pretty light.

    I'm hoping to get it down nearer 11.5kgs (25.35lbs) with a lighter stem, wheelset and brakes.

    I cant post pics cause I dont have enough posts
    A lyrik isn't exactly heavy for a 160mm fork, try 6.5lb fork like my marzocchi, now that's heavy! Ha. What other parts are you running to get your bike so light?
    Buy a f-ing bike maybe you wouldn't be fat

  42. #142
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    Hi. I'm getting a 456 evo this week. I will be running my fork at 140mm. The problem I'm having is deciding what size to get. I've read up on it and I'm kind of in the middle of 14 and 16. I'm 5"6 and had myself bike fitted last week (had knee pains). The guys said I should get a bike with 15-16 inch seat tube and my top tube should be around 21 inches. He also said my seat height to the center of my bottom bracket should be 700 mm(It actually feels really high or maybe I'm just not used to it). These were just guidelines of course. The thing is the bike shops here in the Philippines don't really let you test drive the bikes. I'm gonna be using it for aggressive trail and all mountain and fun downhill. I figured you all would be the best source of knowledge to help me out. I'm leaning toward the size 14. Apologies for the long post. I just don't want to get the wrong size frame for my size and riding style. Thanks!

  43. #143
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    Can someone tell what the weight of a 16" frame is ?

  44. #144
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    Weight ?

    I don't have an exact number, but I'd expect between 5 to 5.5 pounds. Its not really an XC race frame, and it is made out of steel. If you're really worried about weight spend a few hundred extra and go for the carbon model, or better yet save your money for some lighter wheels.

    Mine is an 18" frame and built up with pedals it's coming in around 28.5 pounds. I think I might move to some different tires, and drop another pound or two, but if you're shooting for much lower weight than that you're going to be spending some coin. - That said, this thing is a blast to ride!

    D.

  45. #145
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    No XC use intended, just what I call super XC , or light AM. Looking to replace my Heckler frame for the winter, that thing eats pivot bearings.

  46. #146
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    finally finished! it takes forever to rebuild the thing properly but hey! its a sweet bike, loving it so much
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 456 evo-dscn0475-small.jpg  

    456 evo-dscn0483-small.jpg  


  47. #147
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    considering buying one of these, hoping for some help interpreting the geo numbers. i'm 6'2" with an unhealthy aversion to bikes that look like gates: i'm considering buying an 18" frame and running a nice long seatpost... but the 600mm ett kind of scares me. except i notice that, at least according to this drawing, on-one doesn't measure ett like most companies:

    seems they measure the effective top tube length from the head tube to a line running vertically from the top of the seat tube. afaik, most companies measure the effective top tube length from the head tube to a line running along the same angle as the frame's seat tube. so, the top tube on the 18" evo should feel longer than the 23.7" spec number suggests. or maybe this is just a crappy drawing? could someone with an 18" frame measure the ett the normal way and let me know what it comes out to - or brant, could you set the record straight? thanks!

  48. #148
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    Top Tube ?

    Just measured mine with a tape. By eyeballing it, and not using a level, it looks like the numbers listed by On-One show the "Correct" Effective TT length. I have an 18" frame and measured out from the center of the top tube to the center of my post at about level and it looks on par with the 23.7" figure.

    FWIW I'm 5'11" and am running a 70mm stem, and I use this bike for quite a bit of climbing.

  49. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomforeal View Post
    considering buying one of these, hoping for some help interpreting the geo numbers. i'm 6'2" with an unhealthy aversion to bikes that look like gates: i'm considering buying an 18" frame and running a nice long seatpost... but the 600mm ett kind of scares me. except i notice that, at least according to this drawing, on-one doesn't measure ett like most companies:

    seems they measure the effective top tube length from the head tube to a line running vertically from the top of the seat tube. afaik, most companies measure the effective top tube length from the head tube to a line running along the same angle as the frame's seat tube. so, the top tube on the 18" evo should feel longer than the 23.7" spec number suggests. or maybe this is just a crappy drawing? could someone with an 18" frame measure the ett the normal way and let me know what it comes out to - or brant, could you set the record straight? thanks!
    That diagram is bollocks.

    Sorry.

  50. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by brant View Post
    That diagram is bollocks.

    Sorry.
    that's okay brant

    but since you are in a giving mood, can you shed any light on this?


  51. #151
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    Dear Lord

    2nd That Ti is Sexy - Seat tube diameter? Tire clearance? 650B? (I know that's s dirty word sorry)

    I've been looking at a diet for my bike and Ti really fits the bill. The Fireline looks awesome, and now this. I'd be interested in a review between the two.

    ps. I just took my Evo for a ride yesterday and it was AMAZING. Can't speak enough love about this bike. Honestly it's stupid how much fun you can have on a frame at this price point. I'll have to post up a review soon, but I've been waiting to get into some real mud first, and the wet season is just starting in UT.

  52. #152
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    Hi. On-One's site states that the max fork length for the 456 Evo is 150mm but earlier posts stated that they're using a 160mm Lyrik. Is that okay to do? Anyone know what the a/c of the fork is that the geometry is based on?

    I have 6" full suspension bike and I was hoping to just move everything over to the 456. It looks like this should work because I have a 1 1/8" fork, 10x135 rear, 27.2" seat post, and 73mm bb. Anything else I need to be concerned about?

    Also, it looks like the US retailer doesn't have a 16" frame in stock. Should I just order it from the UK site or is there a better solution? It looks like I could save $50 or so on shipping if I could order it through the US dealer...

    Thanks!

  53. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by LowLow View Post
    I have 6" full suspension bike and I was hoping to just move everything over to the 456. It looks like this should work because I have a 1 1/8" fork, 10x135 rear, 27.2" seat post, and 73mm bb. Anything else I need to be concerned about?

    Also, it looks like the US retailer doesn't have a 16" frame in stock. Should I just order it from the UK site or is there a better solution? It looks like I could save $50 or so on shipping if I could order it through the US dealer...
    I wanted a 16", but the website didn't have one. I waited a couple days checking every day and it was there last week so it was ordered. Wait a couple days and they'll have another.

    What kind of fork do you have? You may be able to put a shim in it to reduce to 150mm. Make sure it's really 160; 150's are 5.9" so they're often sold as a 6" fork. Some manufactures even claim their 160's at 6.3" are 6.5".
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you’ll crash.
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  54. #154
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    ... and if we just ...

    Quote Originally Posted by LowLow View Post
    Hi. On-One's site states that the max fork length for the 456 Evo is 150mm but earlier posts stated that they're using a 160mm Lyrik. Is that okay to do? Anyone know what the a/c of the fork is that the geometry is based on?

    I have 6" full suspension bike and I was hoping to just move everything over to the 456. It looks like this should work because I have a 1 1/8" fork, 10x135 rear, 27.2" seat post, and 73mm bb. Anything else I need to be concerned about?

    Also, it looks like the US retailer doesn't have a 16" frame in stock. Should I just order it from the UK site or is there a better solution? It looks like I could save $50 or so on shipping if I could order it through the US dealer...

    Thanks!
    Don't worry about running the 160mm fork, I've run a 160mm marzocchi and it rode fine. It all depends on how slack you like your bike, it's only 1/2 degree slacker than a standard 150mm fork (of the same manufacturer). Also I ordered my frame direct from On One, and I live in the USA, and it didn't take all that long to get.
    Buy a f-ing bike maybe you wouldn't be fat

  55. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by unknown-rider View Post
    Don't worry about running the 160mm fork, I've run a 160mm marzocchi and it rode fine. It all depends on how slack you like your bike, it's only 1/2 degree slacker than a standard 150mm fork (of the same manufacturer). Also I ordered my frame direct from On One, and I live in the USA, and it didn't take all that long to get.
    Thanks man. I talked to On-One and they said the same thing. I guess with a 160mm fork the bike's HA would be 65.2 degrees, which seems pretty slack, but I have a Works Component headset that I can throw on there to change it to 66.2 degrees if I don't like it, or drop the fork to 150mm.

  56. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by LowLow View Post
    Thanks man. I talked to On-One and they said the same thing. I guess with a 160mm fork the bike's HA would be 65.2 degrees, which seems pretty slack, but I have a Works Component headset that I can throw on there to change it to 66.2 degrees if I don't like it, or drop the fork to 150mm.
    I like to think of it this way, a hardtail with a headtube angle of 65 degrees (without it weighted) is not as slack as a full squish with the same headtube angle. The hardtail when it is weighted with a rider gets steeper no matter what, unless you lock the fork out, a full squish bike usually settles in at the same headtube angle since the front and rear (normally) sag about the same. Also the amount of sag you run on your 160mm fork will effect the sagged headtube angle, if you sag it more than you would a 150mm fork you can end up with the same "sagged" headtube angle. I'd say try it out before you make any changes, like the works headset, so you at least know how it rides that slack. Personally I find it to be perfect being that slack, with the 160mm fork, since it is super stable at speed DH and it still climbs like a mtn goat, YMMV... Hope that helps and wasn't too confusing!
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    Is there any difference at all between 456 SS and Evo?

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    Quote Originally Posted by mishgun1 View Post
    Is there any difference at all between 456 SS and Evo?
    yes

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    Quote Originally Posted by mishgun1 View Post
    Is there any difference at all between 456 SS and Evo?
    Yes, the most notable difference is the steeper seatube angle on the 456 EVO, which makes it climb better than the 456 summer season. I believe most of the angles, on the 456 EVO, were tweeked to make it a better all arounder while still retaining the summer season's amazing DH ripping ability. I have a 456 EVO, obviously, and it climbs very well, even with a 160mm fork up front. So basically the EVO is a new and improved summer season, with all of the upsides and none of the downsides of the summer season. I hope that helps!
    Buy a f-ing bike maybe you wouldn't be fat

  60. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by unknown-rider View Post
    Yes, the most notable difference is the steeper seatube angle on the 456 EVO, which makes it climb better than the 456 summer season. I believe most of the angles, on the 456 EVO, were tweeked to make it a better all arounder while still retaining the summer season's amazing DH ripping ability. I have a 456 EVO, obviously, and it climbs very well, even with a 160mm fork up front. So basically the EVO is a new and improved summer season, with all of the upsides and none of the downsides of the summer season. I hope that helps!
    Thanks a lot! very informative

  61. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomforeal View Post
    yes
    I like you. You could work for us with replies like that :-)

  62. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by unknown-rider View Post
    Yes, the most notable difference is the steeper seatube angle on the 456 EVO, which makes it climb better than the 456 summer season. I believe most of the angles, on the 456 EVO, were tweeked to make it a better all arounder while still retaining the summer season's amazing DH ripping ability. I have a 456 EVO, obviously, and it climbs very well, even with a 160mm fork up front. So basically the EVO is a new and improved summer season, with all of the upsides and none of the downsides of the summer season. I hope that helps!
    Yeah, kinda.

    The 456Evo is a ground up redesign. Started from scratch, and based on the riding on 26in hardtails I'd been doing. Notable on this one are the proportional chainstays to keep the front end planted even for larger riders with a lot of seat post exposed. Instead of steepening the seat angle (as I've done on previous designs on the larger sizes), I lengthened the chainstays a little. A small lengthening at the chainstay (close to the ground) makes a big difference compared to the amount you'd have to move the saddle forward (a long way from the ground) to get the same centre-of-gravity change.

    Head angle is slacker between the Summer Season and the old 456, BB lower, seat angle steeper.

    It rides great.

  63. #163
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    I switched over to a 456Evo from a standard 456 and the Evo definitely feels better under my 6'2" carcass. It still loves to be pointed downhill, but I'm able to get a better geometry for climbing. Definitely a sweet bike. I'm running a 130 fork.

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    Hey Brant, I'm looking to build a raw finish 456 evo. I'm kinda in between on the size chart being about 6'1.5" and a 33.5" inseam. I'm leaning towards an 18" frame. What are your thoughts on frame size, 18" vs 20", and when do you think the US store might have that size and finish? Or should I just buy from the UK site? This will be my first build so any help you or anyone for that matter can offer would be greatly appreciated.

  65. #165
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    Hello and sorry for my bad english. I plan to build 456evo. 2.4 conty mountain king or x-king would be the right change? Can,t search any suitable pics with 456evo and 2.35 (not maxxis' 2.35) or 2.4 tyres to see a mud clearance...

  66. #166
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    My new 2012 One One 456 Evo.

    Just finished this build on Sunday. in the last couple of days I've ridden it on street, trail, pump track, dirt jumps, and a dual-slalom course. It was grat on all of them. Really digging this bike. May do a proper build/ride thread later, but here's a quick pic for now:


  67. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by 309 View Post
    My new 2012 One One 456 Evo.

    Just finished this build on Sunday. in the last couple of days I've ridden it on street, trail, pump track, dirt jumps, and a dual-slalom course. It was grat on all of them. Really digging this bike. May do a proper build/ride thread later, but here's a quick pic for now:

    What handlebar did you go with?
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you’ll crash.
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  68. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by woahey View Post
    What handlebar did you go with?

    Race Face Atlas. Very happy with it. Super wide (785mm) and has some rise to it as well.

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    Got my Evo built up with Flows and a 120mm Fox RL 32 and have been loving it. It looks slick and right off the bat if felt very comfortable, as if I'd been riding it for years. Since then it's seen dirt; frozen dirt; snow; ice; and it's taken ridden them all like a champ. The frame is quite stable and feels more relaxed on decents than 08 stumpy fsr. Obviously the rear end is really stiff, but fat ass tires take the edge off, and climbing out of the saddle bob-free feels great. I worried initially that it would be too slack, but it is a very capable xc machine, that will let you get gnarly without complain. My only complaint would be the finish quality. Mechanic spent a while (extra $$$) facing etc. to get the bottom bracket and headset in, plus the isg tabs were crooked. But, I guess that's what you get for 400 bucks! Looking forward to hitting the bike park next.

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    Hey all,

    I am considering going from my 5" full suspension trail bike to the on one 456 evo. I'd like to swap all my parts over, which should work with my 130 mm fork. My question is, will my rear wheel with a standard QR hub fit? I couldn't find the sizing on the website...

  71. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fueledbycoffee View Post
    Hey all,

    I am considering going from my 5" full suspension trail bike to the on one 456 evo. I'd like to swap all my parts over, which should work with my 130 mm fork. My question is, will my rear wheel with a standard QR hub fit? I couldn't find the sizing on the website...
    The 456 evo has a 135mm wide dropout.

    I just finished mine using the old parts from my 6" travel bike. It's a blast to ride. Have fun!
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you’ll crash.
    - Julie Furtado

  72. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fueledbycoffee View Post
    Hey all,

    I am considering going from my 5" full suspension trail bike to the on one 456 evo. I'd like to swap all my parts over, which should work with my 130 mm fork. My question is, will my rear wheel with a standard QR hub fit? I couldn't find the sizing on the website...
    Pretty much all my stuff came off a 2009 Stumpjumper FSR.

  73. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by fer83 View Post
    waiting for Chain device and proper stem, but apart from that, the thing is finally rideable
    Hi, what kind of handle bar are you using Fire eye?

  74. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by [ LLeR ] View Post
    Hi, what kind of handle bar are you using Fire eye?
    780mm wide Superstar components.

  75. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcitizen1 View Post
    Got my Evo built up with Flows and a 120mm Fox RL 32 and have been loving it. It looks slick and right off the bat if felt very comfortable, as if I'd been riding it for years. Since then it's seen dirt; frozen dirt; snow; ice; and it's taken ridden them all like a champ. The frame is quite stable and feels more relaxed on decents than 08 stumpy fsr. Obviously the rear end is really stiff, but fat ass tires take the edge off, and climbing out of the saddle bob-free feels great. I worried initially that it would be too slack, but it is a very capable xc machine, that will let you get gnarly without complain. My only complaint would be the finish quality. Mechanic spent a while (extra $$$) facing etc. to get the bottom bracket and headset in, plus the isg tabs were crooked. But, I guess that's what you get for 400 bucks! Looking forward to hitting the bike park next.

    Some pics. Kinda wanna do orange bars too, and maybe even cranks.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 456 evo-457456_10152433304965593_24473686_o.jpg  

    456 evo-704850_10152433304780593_350216094_o.jpg  

    456 evo-736821_10152433304485593_1208704789_o.jpg  


  76. #176
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    ... and shorten stem

  77. #177
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    yeah, yeah, I know! Just not in the new house new dad budget.

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    How do you guys like the ride of a hardtail after riding a full suspension?
    The 456 evo looks awesome and almost all the parts from my 5" squish bike should transfer but I have not ridden a hardtail for almost 2 years

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    Quote Originally Posted by babooski92 View Post
    How do you guys like the ride of a hardtail after riding a full suspension?
    The 456 evo looks awesome and almost all the parts from my 5" squish bike should transfer but I have not ridden a hardtail for almost 2 years
    I was hardtail free for about 2 or so years, then bought a steel 29er a couple of years ago. Used it as my "other" bike, but ended up riding it exclusively after my stumpy fsr was in the shop for about a month (shock was pushed). Had always liked the feeling of the hardtail, but assumed I'd never give up squish. After putting in a month on the hardtail, though, I realized all the squish was a bit much for my trials/riding style and suddenly having to climb in the saddle and listen to creaking etc. etc. just didn't feel worth it. So I sold the 29er and have my stumpy frame under my bed and now I'm gonna be hardtail all the time in 2013. It really isn't a big deal to go from a 5" or less trail bike to a hardtail if you run fat tires and your bike has slacker geo. My evo is quite forgiving, which means no back pain like I got from my previous hardtail SS, and it decends with a lot of confidence. It's really not that big a transition unless you do big drops & all that. Do it!

  80. #180
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    I recently started riding a 1998 Rockhopper again just for grins and I've really been feeling the 26" wheel, after several years of only riding 29ers. Been thinking about building a longer travel 26" hardtail to complement my rigid 29er and this frame looks ideal.

    Hmmm, I got my Pompino frame delivered two days ago, can I really go out any buy another frame for yet another build? I'd better check with my financial adviser / event planner

  81. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by babooski92 View Post
    How do you guys like the ride of a hardtail after riding a full suspension?
    The 456 evo looks awesome and almost all the parts from my 5" squish bike should transfer but I have not ridden a hardtail for almost 2 years
    you go slower, and it beats you up, but in my opinion and experience a 26" hardtail is probably the most pure fun you can have on a mountain bike. the evo is so cheap it could make a great winter hardtail standby - swap parts over when the days get dark, higher trails are snowed in, etc. to maintain challenge and fun, and you may find yourself reinvigorated once you get back you your full squish in the spring. works for me every year

  82. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by 309 View Post
    My new 2012 One One 456 Evo.

    Just finished this build on Sunday. in the last couple of days I've ridden it on street, trail, pump track, dirt jumps, and a dual-slalom course. It was grat on all of them. Really digging this bike. May do a proper build/ride thread later, but here's a quick pic for now:
    Hi sir. What stem are you using & a size 50mm stem?? And how about your seatclamp and a seatpost?

    Thanks in advance...

  83. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by [ LLeR ] View Post
    Hi sir. What stem are you using & a size 50mm stem?? And how about your seatclamp and a seatpost?

    Thanks in advance...
    50mm Nukeproof Zero stem
    27.2 Thomson Post
    29.8 Woodman Deathgrip Clamp

  84. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomforeal View Post
    you go slower, and it beats you up, but in my opinion and experience a 26" hardtail is probably the most pure fun you can have on a mountain bike. the evo is so cheap it could make a great winter hardtail standby - swap parts over when the days get dark, higher trails are snowed in, etc. to maintain challenge and fun, and you may find yourself reinvigorated once you get back you your full squish in the spring. works for me every year
    Yeah the 456 seems like a great idea for winter riding. Who knows maybe i'll love it and keep it all year. And the price definitely makes it easier.
    Unfortunately my size is back ordered so i have to wait a couple weeks to get the frame.
    i'll be sure to post some pics when it's done.

  85. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by babooski92 View Post
    Yeah the 456 seems like a great idea for winter riding. Who knows maybe i'll love it and keep it all year. And the price definitely makes it easier.
    Unfortunately my size is back ordered so i have to wait a couple weeks to get the frame.
    i'll be sure to post some pics when it's done.
    I'm pretty happy riding my 456 outside of winter.

    Boomfiled, what tires are you running? My 456 has 2.2 (now 2.3) specialized Purgatory and it really takes the edge off. Obviously it's not suspension, but it is a lot better than skinnier tires for sure. 2.4's would be even better I suspect.

  86. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcitizen1 View Post
    I'm pretty happy riding my 456 outside of winter.

    Boomfiled, what tires are you running? My 456 has 2.2 (now 2.3) specialized Purgatory and it really takes the edge off. Obviously it's not suspension, but it is a lot better than skinnier tires for sure. 2.4's would be even better I suspect.
    I have 2.5" Minion DHFs on my 456. I couldn't imagine anything less...
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you’ll crash.
    - Julie Furtado

  87. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by woahey View Post
    I have 2.5" Minion DHFs on my 456. I couldn't imagine anything less...
    You're not fuc%in around.

  88. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcitizen1 View Post
    You're not fuc%in around.
    Nope. No time for that sh!t.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 456 evo-481203_10151342633973586_1358977401_n.jpg  

    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you’ll crash.
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  89. #189
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    the 456 ti is on-line on On One Bikes homepage

    this is it, I will order one once they become available.

    I am planning to ride a tour around Mont Blanc in summer, the perfect ride for almost everything - I am not the bikepark, huge drop guy.
    ad vineas

  90. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by singularidad View Post
    the 456 ti is on-line on On One Bikes homepage

    this is it, I will order one once they become available.
    Oh geez, my 456 Evo is only a few months old and now this. I wonder if my wife will notice. The Ti finish isn't *that* different than the raw steel to the untrained eye.
    Loud hubs save lives. http://about.me/splat/

  91. #191
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    my friends think im crazy for swapping a squishy frame for a hardtail steel one,
    happy to find other fans of the 456, barely a couple hours into ownership and im kinda stoked already.

  92. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by woahey View Post
    Nope. No time for that sh!t.
    What seat clamp & bar are you using? Builds are so similar, but you ride yours on way better **** then I have access to, ha ha.

  93. #193
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    Can't seem to find what diameter the headtube is, 1-1/8" or 1.5" straight? Thanks

  94. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by mces View Post
    can't seem to find what diameter the headtube is, 1-1/8" or 1.5" straight? Thanks
    1-1/8"
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you’ll crash.
    - Julie Furtado

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    delete
    Last edited by LowLow; 05-05-2015 at 10:41 PM.

  96. #196
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    Any one know where I can get my hands on an 18" raw?

  97. #197
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    So i swapped all the parts from my 5" squishy bike to an On One 456 evo. I have been very comfortable on my first few rides. I was expecting a much harsher ride but i think the steel frame and bigger tires help the ride. . It is a little tricky to climb techy stuff and i definitely need to slow down and pick my lines better in rock gardens but it is a ton of fun and is much more flickable than my old bike making the smooth flowy trails a blast. I really like the low and slack geometry.
    I have noticed that my shoes bounce around on my flat pedals much more. I think it's time to upgrade my Vans skate shoes to some 5.10's or maybe even go clipless

  98. #198
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    Didn't want to start a new thread, but I'm hopefully getting one of these frames next week and had a sizing question. I'm 6'1" with long legs and arms. I don't know actual lengths, but I do know my tailor lengths, 34" jeans and 36" sleeve. I weigh 160lb. My current bike is a Trek 3700 21.5" frame and have always felt it was to big for me. Do you think I need a 18" or 20" 456 EVO?

  99. #199
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    20". I'm about the same size as you and I can't eun as short a stem as I want to with the 20".

  100. #200
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    Cool thanks. What stem do you run and what would you like to?

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