I'll bump this, I am looking at one as well.
Yeah, based on the specs-I'd say I'm interested. I've got a 2011 Range 3 that I love, but the specs on the Traux are very appealing for the form of riding I'm interested in pursuing more aggressively. I love the perkiness of the Range, so I don't think I could go all out by getting an Aurum, even with a CC A/S and a shorter fork. That seems like it would just be too burly. The wheelbase, head angle, seat tube angle, et cetera, on the traux is great looking.
rider reviews appreciated
Is the Truax a new design for this year or has it been around a while? I honestly wasn't even looking at Norco until I started seeing some of the pics from Sea Otter. I was originally thinking a Transition Blindside or a Giant Faith (even though they are a little out of my price range.) I would love some feedback on the horst-link. I also like the spec sheet on the Truax 2, and 36.30lbs sounds perfect for me.
Norco use to make a bike called the Shore. It was around from 2001-2011 and was a rather popular bike. The Truax just replaced it. Norco has been changing up their line of bikes lately.
The way my Range feels while riding is great. I love the way the rear suspension on it flows with the trail. That's the reason I retain my interest in Norco and am considering a Truax. Norco says the two ride somewhat comparably, just that each is slightly more in another direction. Personally, I'd recommend getting the Truax LE framekit if you were to get one.
I'm glad Norco has a Syntace rear axle on it too. That's important to me now.
What is the Syntace rear axle? The only thing about Norco is the nearest dealer here in NC is either Charleston or Greenville SC, both at least 6 hours away. And why do you recommend the Truax LE? I mean, I wish I could but I am biking on a budget.
The Syntace rear axle is different than the standard quick release axle. You can learn about it here:
Why Syntace 142mm is here to stay?! - Pinkbike.com
I'm not saying you should get the Truax LE, I'm saying you should get the Truax LE framekit. It is an option Norco provides: you buy the frame and it comes with a rear shock and you build it (or have it built up if you don't know how to) to the spec that you want. Personally, I don't necessarily agree with some of the components that are sold with the built up bikes that are available. I feel like you would ultimately feel compelled to upgrade a large number of them over a period of time. It would just be worth it more to get a frame and build from there.
Thanks for that link. I am curious, it only lists Norco bikes that use the Syntace, did they design the technology? And the more I look at the Truax the more I realize what a beautiful piece of machinery it is. As for the specs on the two, I think that those parts will suit me just fine. I have heard pretty good things about the totem as well, but switch it out for a Fox Vanilla R 180 on down the line. It would be a lot easier for me to have a complete bike and upgrade parts as I can than to buy a frame and buy parts as I could afford them. That's a lot of riding I would miss out on.
Have ridden and it blows my older shore away in just about every way. It is certainly useable as a trail bike, while being ready for the big stuff.
No, I just got an article that was listed on the Norco page. I think they just listed bikes they make that have it. Norco is a great company. I don't see too many of their bikes here in California, but I saw a lot of them on Vancouver Island when I visited there. It certainly is a beautiful bike.
Originally Posted by Teqtonik
My main concern is the brakes, drive-train, and the saddle. Those become easy to get picky on quick, but this is entirely your choice.
Thank you dude, how long were you on it?
Originally Posted by Lord Humongous
Regarding the Syntace x-12, I'm a big fan. My Shinobi has this and the 12mm really makes for a stiff rear end that tracks really well. It is a little more involved than a QR when you need to change a tire, but it's easier than some other thru-axle systems I've seen. You just need a 5mm allen key and the axle screws right out.
So far, I've taken a few hits to the derailluer and the break-away bolt hasn't wavered. It's good peice of mind to know that there is a replacement tucked away in the frame so if I ever need it in the back country, I won't be walking home.
Yeah I definitely enjoy the innovation involved
Dirt Rag had a review of the Truax in its last issue as I recall (#161) here is a quick link to a short review but the magazines review is quite comprehensive.
First Impression: Norco Truax | Dirt Rag Magazine
Originally Posted by rockcrusher
This is a great article with some great detailed photos to see just how beautifully built and well thought out this frame is.
So I picked up a 2011.5 Truax 1 about a month ago, and have put some decent time on it both in the interior of BC (Okanagan), but a vast majority here in North Vancouver.
In short... this bike is amazing. It's built incredibly well, ride's really well, and pedals alot better than it's "heft" might suggest. Immediately, I switched out the rear shock to a Rock Shox Vivid Air R2C, which I am glad I did, because the variety of trails here in North Van require me to change the pressure (a Ladies Only lap on Fromme needs a different set-up than a 7th-Crickum loop or a Neds/Pingu/Pangor ride, for example). I have run into a couple bottom out issues despite having 25% sag, but mine is a medium compression tune. I'd probably suggest a high compression tune on the shock.
Anyways, I prefer to do pedalling to trailheads, and have taken this on some decent loops that might have been considered XC, and the bike rides surprisingly well. It would definitely benefit from an adjustable fork (which I am keeping my eyes open for), but it is not necessary if you know how to climb technically and are proficient at moving your weight and momentum around while climbing. A beginner-to-intermediate rider might find it challenging on steeper technical climbs, but then again, this is not a XC bike... it's built for abuse on the shore or in the park with the ability to pedal to your trails.
Point this bike down though, and it's amazing. The geometry just sits so well, and bike is so easy to throw around under neath you. It rides like a slopestyle bike, but has the stability of a DH bike (at least in my opinion). Some people have brought up issues with top-tube length, but I am 5'9", ride a medium, and feel very comfortable on it.
I've got a Joplin adjustable post on mine, which allows a lot more versatility for the bike, and contrary to what a lot of people are *****ing about (who have clearly never actually ridden or played with a Truax), you can get PLENTY of extension on the seatpost (in fact, I was able to get full extension for my leg length, but anyone taller would lose a bit of extension... my inseam is 32, but the dropper post has completely remedied that, so it's a non-issue for me). Plus, any decent rider doesn't slam the saddle down, and instead keeps it a little higher so that they can use it to maneuver the bike between their legs and have more control.
The specs on the Truax 1 (well now Truax 2 for 2012) is great. It's all bomb-proof, problem free (which is what matters, right?), and well put-together. I have never had an issue with the Syntace drop out, and actually quite like it (my wife has a 2011 Norco Vixa with the same set-up and it's great).
The frame is very stiff, yet very responsive, and forgiving. It's a very rideable bike (which I mean to say that it really can do everything). I have consolidated from two bikes (a 2010 Giant Anthem and a C-dale Judge DH build) down into just this one, because I am riding everything I did on both of those bikes, if not better on this. While I don't climb as fast as I did on my anthem... I am not really racing anywhere, and just want a fun ride.
The totem, once broken in, is really smooth and plush. I really like it. I was initially debating swapping out to a TALAS, but have since decided not to because the Totem just rides so well (I am 170lbs kitted up, and the stock spring in the Totem suits me... seems RockShox has gotten it right with spring rates now).
The bike does not NEED the VIvid Air over the Vanilla R (although I really recommend it), as I demo'd a Truax with the Vanilla before buying mine, and it actually rode really well still. There is bob, don't get me wrong, but that just forces me to be a smoother pedaler.
Anyways, I really recommend the bike. There are definitely some cheaper options out there (Norco is almost boutique'ifying itself a little), as well as some better, more expensive options, but I've ridden alot of different bikes, from a lot of different companies, but this one really stacks up to the best of them, I really must say.
For the record, I'd describe myself as an intermediate to advanced rider. I routinely ride ladies only, Oilcan, Empress, Pingu/Pangor, C-buster, Neds, and the usual XC loops etc etc, (and by "ride", I actually mean ride top to bottom, not walking most of the trails), so I think I put my bikes through the paces, and this is holding up really really well. No play anywhere (although, I'd recommend lock-tighting pivot bolts before taking the bike to the trails), and no concerns what so ever. At the end of the date, it's a Norco, and Norco's really are built very well.
Good luck! It's a pretty rad ride.
ps: yes, it has a bottle cage, but I'm doing 3-4 hour loops and it's nice to have a bottle...
pps: my rear shock settings are:
End Stroke rebound: 1 click from fully open
Beginning Stroke Rebound: 4 clicks from fully opened
Compression: 3 clicks from fully open
Works pretty well, although I think I have to add some air pressure to reduce the bottoming, but it's only on bigger hits.
Nice ride! I never hate on a water bottle cage, sometimes I ditch my camelbak.
That's great to hear a good review of the totem. I have heard it is a really well designed fork for all things freeride. Does the Fox DHX come with the propedal option? I know I have an RP2 on my all mountain BMC and had next to no pedal bob. I would imagine there are some rear shock options to cover that.
It actually feels pretty amazing. Better than my TALAS 180 I had on another bike last season, but not quite as good as the Vanilla or Float 180s.
I had my shop rebuild the fork before I picked it up, topping up the oil bath, and making sure the bushings and seals were well lubed as Rock Shox tend to have underlubed bushings on the Lyriks and Totems out of the box. Once this was done, the fork was/is super plush.
As I said, I was initially thinking of swapping the Totem out for a TALAS, but I think I am gonna hold on to them for now, and maybe even look for a 2012 Dual Position Totem (with the new dual position system), but we'll see. I'll put the summer on the totems since it will be a lot of park riding, and then when the winter rolls around, maybe find a TALAS as I'll be back to doing more climbing and stuff.
What size rear shock does the Truax use?
It uses an 8.75x2.75 shock (222x70mm).
I have heard and see some guys running an 8.5x2.5 in it, slackens it out a bit, lowers the BB, but you lose a tiny bit of travel...
New Truax for me
Well just picked up what is a new bike for me. It is a used Truax 1 but it is in very nice shape. So far it is all stock, but I have some changes in mind.
Handlebar was cut down will get a 720-740 (wide enough for my taste)
Swap RS Vivid Air R2C from previous bike
Swap Talas 180 RC2 from previous bike
Swap X9 drivetrain from previous bike
Swap 2ply Minion tire from previous bike
I was quite surprised when I weighed the bike and it was 36.3lbs as claimed, that said, changing the rear shock from the coil Van-R to the Vivid air will drop weight and allow for more tuning options.
I haven't used the Totem RC before and it does feel pretty good, but switching to the Talas 180 will drop some weight and allow for a better climbing position. The fork is also more adjustable on the compression setting.
My current FR bike has a x-9 drive train that is in very good shape, so that is an easy swap. Might also consider swapping the Juicy-7s I have on the bike as well from the Elixer-5s that are stock on the Truax. Any comments on how the Elixer-5 would compare the Juicy-7s. I know the Juicy's are older but mine are in great shape and have always worked very well for me.
Single ply Nevgals have to go, heard way too many complaints about these tires to give up my trusted 2-ply Minion DHF that I now run. I haven't have too much in terms of how the stock Inferno-29 rims and hubs are performing. I might be able to swap my wheels from my trail bike 20mm front with 135x10 Hope EVO hubs by changing the end caps? That way I could use the Truax if/when required with a lighter set of wheels (1.5 ply Schwalbes)
I will also be able to use my KS dropper post from my trailbike as it also 30.9. I have an older i-900 post without the remote so it would be very easy to swap between frames.
Last and certainly not the least, I am considering putting on an angleset headset. The stock HA on the bike is 65.5 which is already pretty slack. I would like to try the 1 degree cup and see what a 64.5 - 65 HA would feel like, especially for the really steep bits on the shore.
Will post some pictures as the bike evolves from it's current state to the end state. Really looking forward to this little project and getting some trail time on this new ride.
I am hoping to start the rip down and build up of the Truax tonight and hope to be done this weekend, and have a couple of questions as to the equipment spec on the bike.
Question 1 - Bottom bracket - Is it a 68/73 or 83mm bottom bracket?
Question 2 - Stock RS Totem RC fork, does is have a straight 1 1/8 steered or is it tapered.
That should do if for now. Thanks in advance.
Truax build nearly complete
Well pretty much got the build complete and out for a quick ride tonight. Got a race that works with the 1.5 bottom cup and bearing that fits the 1 1/8 steerer on my fork. Tried out a new bar 740 with only a little rise.
Ended up adjusting a couple of times on the ride, will go back to a riser I am more familiar with. Likely a 30-40mm rise. For me a low rise and wide beyond 720 just does not feel confident or comfortable. I have a 30mm rise 710 bar I will try for the next ride. Also want to have the angleset on to see how that will feel as well.
Despite the issues with the bar, the bike felt pretty good. Really noticed how smooth the rear suspension felt and the front lofted up relatively easy. Despite the really short stem 45 or 50mm the reach did feel a little longer than I am accustom to. Perhaps the riser will sort this out, if not perhaps a 35-40mm stem might work.
Oh yah, with 1.5 ply tires, Muddy Mary FR 2.4 front, and Big Betty 2.4 on the bike I had the bike as low at 35.2lbs. Not too shabby. Once I get dual ply tires on and the dropper I am sure it will be 37lbs.
Here are a couple of shots from the first ride.
Do they still sell frameset only?
I believe the frameset only is available. Saw it somewhere on one of the reviews. I purchased my used and pretty much replaced the stock bits with my parts I had to get the bike where I wanted it.
Worked out pretty well as the shock size (8.75 x 2.75) is the same as my previous bike so I just swapped around. My Talas 180 moved across with using a CC Angleset for a 1 1/8 steerer tube.
Kept the wheels and cranks as they didn't seem to be an issue. I am getting some different end caps for my Hope wheels so that I can have a backup rear wheel. (135 x 10 to 142 x 12).
Last change is to find a 35mm or 40mm stem from the stock 50mm stem. At 5' 10" tall the medium Truax does feel larger then my previous FR bikes.
Just back from vacation and now the weather has been absolute crap here so, haven't been out much.
Will get some time on the bike and report back.
I noticed that all the Truax's and Aurums have the shocks mounted with the resevoir and/or body on the bottom, so that the stanchion is at the top and cycles into the body at the bottom. If that makes sense...
I mounted a DHX Air (and my Vivid Air when I had it) with the body at the top, and the stanchion at the bottom. I noticed that after virtually every ride, with both shocks, there was EXCESSIVE oil build-up on the front of the stanchion, and if I cleaned it off after each ride, there would be an excessive amount (mixed with dirt of course)by the end of the next ride. It is excessively more so than any other shock I have used.
Has anyone else seen this? It's almost as if the way the shock cycles (due to frame design??) it puts excessive pressure on only one side, so that the seal is less effective on the other, hence oil leaking out..??..
I noticed that when I tried a Roco Air WC on the bike, with the shock inverted (so the body is at the bottom, stanchion at the top), there wasn't any excessive oil build-up, but I wonder if that's becasue of gravity keeping the oil lower in the shock. Also, the shock felt like total **** mounted this way, as I think the seals weren't lubricated enough, and so were heating up the shock so that performance went out the window (which is why I went to a DHX Air, which has been good, save for this oil leaking).
It makes me wonder if Norco intentionally mounts the shock like they do for this reason..??..
This week I will be putting on an X-fusion Vector Air HLR, so I'll report back if that shock suffers the same excessive oil leaking.
What do you guys think? Has anyone experienced this as well? I have talked to Norco, but without them seeing the specific bike (ie: me sending it into them), they aren't quite sure what I am referring to, nor do they really have an answer.
Originally Posted by bigmike9699
In some cases shocks are mounted in either direction based on clearance. Some believe keeping the weight as low as possible on the frame helps with centre of gravity. I run my Vivid Air in the position so I can easily get to the air valve and the compression control.
I don't think it should matter which way a shock it mounted if the seals are working properly, as they should not be leaking from simple gravity. The pressure inside a shock would be larger than gravity, for example air shocks run 150 - 250 psi, coil springs range from 250 lb/in to 500+ (or at least I think the spring measurement is lbs/in.)
Hope that helps and you are able to get any issue you have with your bike sorted out.
Thanks Man. I totally didn't think about the lower center of gravity thing, but that makes sense.
I have noticed it (the excessive oil) on a couple other Truax's I have seen with the shock mounted with the body at the top, so I don't think it's an issue specific to mine. Who knows. I am still waiting to hear back from Norco, but I am not too worried. Performance doesn't really suffer, so we'll see.
Ok finally have finished the changes to the Truax build I wanted.
Larger rise for the handle bar (720mm x 40mm rise), shorter stem (35mm), Hadley 142 x 12 hub on Super 28 rim (traded my Hadley 150 x 12), King 20mm front on 721 rim (from previous build).
Latest pic doesnt' show it on, but I swap my KS i900 between frames, super easy to do as it is the non-remote version.
Anyways, here are the pics. Still need to learn how to use a camera.
Here's my Truax in it's final build after an awesome ride today on Seymour in North Vancouver. Stock drivetrain/wheels (cheap, but super durable i have found, especially here in North Van. Suspension upgrades to an X-Fusion Vector Air RLC, TALAS180 RC2 Kashima, and Specialized Command Post.
This bike rips! After trying pretty much every air shock on the market on this bike (DHX Air, RP23, Marz Roco Air TST, Rock Shox Monarch RT3, Rock Shox Vivid Air R2C), this Vector Air is bar none, THE best air shock I have ever ridden. Sooooo plush, soooo controlled, and the adjustments do wonders in changing the feel of the bike. I can adjust it to be really stiff (simply by adjusting the low speed compression), allowing to climb almost as good as my Anthem that i had before this. Or, I can back off the compression adjustments, and it sits really nicely into it's sag, giving the bike a really nice descending platform. It makes the Vivid I had on there feel like child's play, and the DHX Air... well the Vector Air makes that feel like a total piece of junk.
I'd write a more professional sounding review, but this shock has just completely blown my mind, and after struggling to find something that really worked for this bike and the riding I was doing (a lot of climbing with long, technical sustained descents), I just couldn't (and still can't) believe just how much better this shock is on the Truax than any of the others I tried prior. I never ran the Truax with a coil shock, so I can't really comment on those, but as far as air shocks go, this is bar-none, the best I've ridden... maybe on any bike.
The TALAS180 also allows this bike to be put into a really comfortable climbing position, steepening out the seat-angle just enough to get good power transfer, and keep the front wheel nicely locked to the ground (generally), but keeping the angles slack enough for less steep/less tech descents to be managed with the fork in 140mm. Really recommend the adjustable fork on this bike if you want it to be a "do-all" bike.
Bigmike - Sound interesting on the Vector Air. I had an the X-Fusion shock that is similar to the RP3/RP23 on my trail bike. It was more lively but still reasonably controlled, but just didn't nail it. I now run a stock Monarch RC3 Plus and like it over a tuned RP23.
Originally Posted by bigmike9699
For the Vector Air I have heard all positive comments. I don't really have enough time on the Vivid Air to like it or dislike it. What tune were you running, settings ...
Will likely run into you at one point, sounds like we both like hitting up Fromme & Seymour and pedal up for the most part. I'll be the guy riding the blue Truax that looks a little like yours. :D
Nice bike man,
I'd let you ride my Range if I can ride yours.
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2
Rideitall, funny enough I found the RP23 to be a great shock on the Truax. I was using it as an intermediary while waiting for my Vector Air to arrive. I actually really enjoyed riding it.
I also rode the Truax for a while with a 8.5"x2.5" shock. It slackened out the angles a bit, and lowered the BB. In this geometry set-up, the bike descended really well, feeling very stable and controlled. That said, the BB height was TOO low I think. I didn't do any measurements, but it felt considerably lower. Again, great for descending, but not so good for anything else.
I love this bike. I've had some bike commitment issues, averaging 3-4 different bikes a season. But this bike is amazing. I haven't ridden a bike that's as fun, overall. Sure, there are bikes that climb better, and sure, there are bikes that descend better, but I haven't ridden a bike that does both as well as the Truax.
My Truax rides quite nice. Like yours the Talas 180 allows climbing to be a little easier once dropped down in to the 140mm travel setting. I have a 1 degree angle set on mine so it is pretty slack, but the BB does not seem too low. Should measure one of these days.
Will definitely need to get some more time on the bike as the weather improves and get a better picture of how the Vivid Air works on the bike. You really piqued my interest in the Vector Air, especially as you also had the Vivid Air on the Truax already and from the sounds of it ride similar trail as myself.
Do you remember what tune you had on the Vivid? Also is there specific tunes for the Vector Air?
The Vivid Air I had was a M/M tune. It was a great shock for descending, but I didn't find that I could stiffen it out enough with the LSC to climb it very well. So it was either or, sagged for descending, but not for climbing, or nicely set up for climbing, but not that great for descending. Plus, the Vivid is a fairly high-maintenance shock, and I just didn't want to play around with that, especially after the shock blew up after 3 months of riding and needed a full rebuild.
Contact Renegade Cycle (Home - Renegade Cycle Solutions) if you want a Vector Air. They are the Canadian distributor, and while you may be able to get a better deal from a shop if they ordered it in for you, you can order direct from Renegade and they are pretty cool dudes there. Trust me, it's worth it.
Damn you BM, you just had to mention how good the Vector Air was. I too was happy with the Vivid Air on the Truax but perhaps not 100% over the top. Perhaps it was not enough setup time or just the fact that I am used to dialing both low and high speed compression.
I will give it some additional setup time, and fiddle around a little more. The tune I have is the ML (med comp and low reb), which does seem fine. Running right around 30% sag. Don't want to run any more sag as without the HS comp adjustment there isn't anyway to compensate and adjust for increased sag. On the other hand I don't think that running 25% on a FR bike will provide the plush ride I also want.
I will get the bike out over the next little while and try it some more, but with the weather it has been easier to take the trail bike out.
That said, I also managed to find a Vector Air HLR and it is now headed my direction. So perhaps by the time the weather improves enough to drag out the big bike I will have the Vector in place. :D
Nice!!! You'll love it! the Vivid Air was great, but like you, I wasn't as blown away by it as I think I should be by a shock that costs that much.
What kind of setup are you running on the Vector Air, curious on the impact to ride that reservoir setup has.
I read that the res chamber size can be altered (drop res air pressure first) to impact how the shock ramps up, if it is like other shocks a higher res pressure could also mean a higher impact on the H/L compression range (Manitou Revox worked this way).
What sag are you running on the Truax along with the H/L compression. Hopefully my shock will be in the next few days.
I picked this up last week...2011 Truax 1. I've replaced the stock Van R shock with a DHX4 (freshly rebuilt at Push), installed my KS dropper, WTB Pure V saddle, ODI tick grips, and DMR V-8 pedals. Replacing the green der cable tonight :) I love this bike!
Attachment 779872Attachment 779873Attachment 779874
2_WD, looks good. Can't quite tell from the angle, but does the tire hit the dropper cable when compressed? Was the bike built with the coil or did you add it onto the bike. How's the ride with it.
I just swapped my old i900 (no remote) off my trail bike onto my Truax. It works pretty well perhaps a little more finicky to drop with the slacker seat angle, but still loads better than no dropper at all.
I still have only 5-6 rides on the Truax, because I have been having too much fun on the smaller bike, but will make an effort to get the Truax out and about on the trails.
I picked up a Lev for my trail bike. So nice to have the remote vs the under the seat lever.
Thanks for the props rideitall, your bike looks good too...i really like the bars. Regarding the dropper cable hitting the tire...i haven't noticed anything yet and i'd imagine the stays will keep the cable out of the tire's way, but you got my curiosity going so i'm going to specifically check that tonight :)
Originally Posted by rideitall
I swapped the original shock/coil (Van R/450# coil) with a freshly Push'd (DHX4/550# coil). What a difference! the Van R is so basic comapred to the DHX4's propedal feature. So glad i had it to swap...
Dropper posts rule! :)
Finally got out on the Truax again over the past week. Rode once on some trails that I have been riding my trail bike on and the Truax felt a little slow and I noticed the extra weight. Tweaked the setup on the Vector HLR a little before heading out this weekend onto some pretty technical trails.
The Truax was feeling great. The slack head angle was definitely appreciated on the steeps on the shore. Dropping the air pressure rear shock allowed the bike to ride so much smoother. The only issue now exists between the handle bars and the pedals. After riding the trail bike so much as compared to the Truax, I need to let the Truax run and not ride it like a small bike as it is far more capable then how I am currently riding.
All in all good fun and really starting to get the feel for the bike.
Here's my Truax..