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  1. #1
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    Rear wheel removal on killer b frames

    The difficulty in changing the rear wheel was mentioned in an early review of either the range or sight killer b frames. I didn't pay much attention to it but then it came time to do some maintenance that required removing the rear wheel. That reviewer wasn't kidding. Removal is difficult, reinstallation is near impossible. My brake rotor did a number to the inside of the chainstays.

    Does anybody have any tips for doing this in a less painful manner?

    As an aside, it appears that the derailleur hanger area of these frames is slightly revised on the 2014 frames. I wonder if the revisions address this.


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  2. #2
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    the problem definitely is there... I've managed to get some kind of routine how to remove the rearwheel and put it back. It is difficult to put in words, but basically just check how you take it out and try to follow same route when putting back.

    More specifically, normally one would turn bike upside down, remove rear axle and pull wheel directly up to remove it, but with these frames the rear derailleur tends to prevent this route. How I've noticed it works, is that you need to first lift wheel up an inch to get it out from the slots, then pull back to get it around the derailleur. This can be difficult if derailleur doesn't have the locking position(like in SRAM type2 RDs at least). Anyway, point being that don't try to insert/remove wheel only in up/down direction, but more "behind the rear derailleur"...

  3. #3
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    I actually don't find it particularly difficult (at least no more difficult than on my 2011 Shinobi). The following has worked for me quite well on my 2013 Sight B1, at least in the workstand (haven't tried trailside yet):

    Removal:

    1) Turn OFF clutch on rear D
    2) Shift to smallest cog on cassette
    3) Remove rear thru-axle, wheel should stay more or less where it was
    4) Use one hand to hold wheel, other hand to push rear D out of the way, then pull the wheel out

    Installation:

    1) Put rear thru-axle into left dropout, without letting it poke through (so that it does NOT obstruct wheel installation) - this makes it easier once you get the wheel in place
    2) Bring wheel up to dropout with one hand, using the other hand guide chain onto cassette and then push rear D out of the way so that it wraps chain around cassette
    3) This next part can be done a number of ways, but I usually switch the hand holding the wheel so that my right hand holds the wheel and my left hand can push against the left dropout to get the rotor aligned into the caliper...pull the wheel up into the dropout and then slide the thru-axle through.
    4) Look into the right-side dropout to ensure that the thru-axle is where it needs to be, adjust if need be, and then tighten thru-axle.

    If I have time later today i'll post a video of this. Cheers!
    ride, eat, sleep, repeat

  4. #4
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    Rear wheel removal on killer b frames

    Quote Originally Posted by tdotrider View Post
    I actually don't find it particularly difficult (at least no more difficult than on my 2011 Shinobi). The following has worked for me quite well on my 2013 Sight B1, at least in the workstand (haven't tried trailside yet):

    Removal:

    1) Turn OFF clutch on rear D
    2) Shift to smallest cog on cassette
    3) Remove rear thru-axle, wheel should stay more or less where it was
    4) Use one hand to hold wheel, other hand to push rear D out of the way, then pull the wheel out

    Installation:

    1) Put rear thru-axle into left dropout, without letting it poke through (so that it does NOT obstruct wheel installation) - this makes it easier once you get the wheel in place
    2) Bring wheel up to dropout with one hand, using the other hand guide chain onto cassette and then push rear D out of the way so that it wraps chain around cassette
    3) This next part can be done a number of ways, but I usually switch the hand holding the wheel so that my right hand holds the wheel and my left hand can push against the left dropout to get the rotor aligned into the caliper...pull the wheel up into the dropout and then slide the thru-axle through.
    4) Look into the right-side dropout to ensure that the thru-axle is where it needs to be, adjust if need be, and then tighten thru-axle.

    If I have time later today i'll post a video of this. Cheers!
    As it turns out, I was away from the mtb world for about 6 years prior to my recent acquisition of a range b. I bought the bike on a whim after having regained access to some great trails. Since I'd been MIA for so long, I was completely ignorant toward these swanky new clutched rear derailleurs. My first (and only thus far) rear wheel change was done without locking the derailleur. Here's for hoping that that little lock button will make things a little easier.

    Thanks for your input.

  5. #5
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    I've got a Shimano XT rear D w/clutch, if you're running the SRAM type-2 stuff then you will definitely need to use the clutch-release button - I remember the frustration I went through trying to get a wheel in/out on another bike with an X9 type 2 rear D before i read up on that nifty little clutch release button...best of luck!
    ride, eat, sleep, repeat

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