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The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)

412K views 1K replies 325 participants last post by  bear 
#1 ·
Niner RIP9 Setup Thread

RIP9 owners, here's your chance to share your setup and help other riders that are researching sizing and spec'ing of RIP9s. This thread should be used for others to browse frame size, rider height/inseam/weight, riding terrain, and stem/seatpost/bar setups most of all. If you're looking for detailed discussion of travel issues, etc you may want to check the RIP 9 Fine Tuning and Development Thread.

Let's keep this thread clean, with specific questions taken outside via PMs. Feel free to add any extra information, but do your best to keep the same order. And, if possible, try to post a pic taken side-on w/ drivetrain showing. Bonus points for an extra ride shot, especially if taken while airborne :thumbsup:.
 
#890 ·
How has the reverb been for cable management? As in cable rub. My alloy rip does not have stealth cable routing. I figure I would want the 355mm length as the spec post that comes with the bike is 370mm and I don't extend the post much.
 
#895 · (Edited)
To put this thread back on track --Update Nov 2016

-MAIN PURPOSE: XC and AM
-TRAIL LOCATION/TERRAIN: Israel, USA, South Korea, mountains.
-RIDER WEIGHT: 230++ w/ gear
-RIDER HEIGHT: 6'2" height, 34" inseam

-FRAME: 2014 Niner Rip9 (Large, Licorice Black)
-REAR SHOCK: Niner tuned Monarch RT HV 175psi
-FORK: RockShox Rock Shox Pike RCT3 Solo Air 140mm 130psi to 135psi
-HEADSET: Stock
-STEM: Nuke Proof warhead, 70mm 10D rise-
-HANDLEBARS: Easton Carbon low rise 740mm
-GRIPS: ESI Extra chunky
-BRAKES: Shimano XT M785 180/180mm Rotors
-BRAKE ROTORS: 180/180mm Icetech Rotors
-SHIFTERS: Shimano XT M780 I-Spec 2/3 x 10sp
-FRONT DERAILLEUR: Shimano XT M785
-REAR DERAILLEUR: Shimano XTR GS Shadow+ 10sp
-CRANKSET: Shimano XTR M980/24t
-BOTTOM BRACKET: Shimano XTR BB-70
-CHAIN: Shimano XT HG-94 10SP
-CASSETTE: Shimano XT M771 11-36t 10SP
-PEDALS: Canfield Crampon Ultimates/Shimano XT
-RIMS: Ibis 941 Carbon
-HUBS: Stans Ibis/hugi
-FRONT TIRE: Schwalbe Nobby Nic Snakeskin TL 2.35
-REAR TIRE: Schwalbe Nobby Nic Snakeskin TL 2.35
-SEAT POST: Reverb 380mm 125mm drop Right hand lever under bar on the left / Niner Carbon
-SADDLE: SDG bellAir Ti Rail or WTB Silverado Pro
-Armour - Cytoe made skid plate

-BUILD WEIGHT: 30 point something

-OTHER BIKES OWNED: Niner Air 9 Carbon Full XTR, Crossmaxx, SID RCT3 22lbs
- On order- Salsa El-Mariachi Single Speed

-FUTURE CHANGES: All changes made except losing 20lbs

-COMMENTS, ETC: I have had a few squishies in the past but nothing that rides like this bike. Every time I throw a leg over it a smile is born. My poor race hard-tail hasn't been ridden in a few months now. I just hope one day to be able to ride the Rip9 to at least half of what it is capable of. This is also my jump back into the Aluminum bike world as carbon has been my material of choice for years, and I am not disappointed.

Crappy Photo - bike and I currently reside in Israel/USA

Bicycle tire Bicycle wheel rim Wheel Bicycle fork Bicycle part
 
#904 ·
I'm 5' 9.5" and haven't begun to shrink yet (early40s). My paints are 32 inseam. My Rip 9 is a medium with a 55mm stem and 710mm bars. I run a 125mm KSLev dropper and have room to lower the seat post.

The medium frame feels the right size. I don't know what "flick-able" feels like as I have never owned a short CS bike. I do know that the medium with a 140mm fork feels like a it can mo over almost anything. I've been on the steep, really steep, where you have no choice but to let it run. I've tried a couple of pump tracks. For my size, the medium has proven very stable on the down, fun on the jumps, and planted on the climbs.
 
#905 ·
I have a creaking/popping sound from the headset. My rip has the niner branded headset. I am about to take it apart to grease it. Headset feels smooth otherwise. Other problems? I have never gotten a sound like this before on other bikes. How tight is the top star nut supposed to be when I reassemble? Not a major job but have always had the lbs work on my bikes.
 
#906 ·
I think mine makes the same sound. Not sure if it's that, or the seat rails, cause i know i get a similar sound if the seat post bolts aren't snugged up properly. Hard to isolate those noises sometimes.

I've got to take mine in to the shop to have the steerer cut down, so when i do, I'm gonna have him disassemble, grease, and reassemble the whole headset, and see if that cures it.

Top star nut should be just tight enough to remove play from the headset, but no tighter than that. It's hard with suspension forks, cause the test is usually to hold the front brake while rocking the bike back and forth to listen to any headset clunk, but the movement of the fork legs can also seem similar. Usually, if you have it in the stand, tighten the cap down, then grab the fork legs and pull back and forth to feel for play.
 
#909 ·
SMALL, SMALL, SMALL

I had a Med. Jet 9 RDO (I know different bike). It was too big after buying the small RIP.

I'm your height, but shorter inseam(29.5) and long torso. You have a pretty long inseam for someone that height so you may have a LOT of seatpost exposed and need a 150mm dropper. I have a 125mm dropper on it now because I couldn't get the seatpost height I wanted with the 100mm without maxing out minimum insert.

Maybe I am being a little emphatic, but the difference between a small and medium for me was really distinct. Feels more like my 26" hardtail than the horse I felt I was riding on the medium. That said, plenty of people like on the cusp of Niner sizing who love the medium.
 
#911 ·
Competitive cyclist has a great bike fit tool on their site. I also used an app that I got on my iPhone, and it was right on the money.

The latter needed conversion to cm/mm, but it was good no less.

I have a large and I'm 6'1. From a reach perspective I fit an XL, but it makes for a tight stand over at that size for me.

Don't use your pants inseam as a guide, either.
 
#914 ·
Hey fellow RIPpers.. I have protective film on my rub points around my frame but want to add some protection in other areas that have received some minor scratches. I don't plan on selling my bike ever so this isn't just for cosmetics, just want to prevent damage/wear (have some scratches from rocks getting between my rear disc and frame for example).

I know some of you (Muzz) cover your entire bikes so was wondering if you could tell me exactly what you use?

Would this work?

XPEL Clear Universal Door Sill Guard (60" x 2.75") Paint Protection Film Kit:Amazon:Automotive

Thanks!
 
#920 ·
I am note sure what the alloy comes with for protection but I did ask my dealer to cover the frame and cable rub spots with helicopter tape. They did get most all the spots but I did add a few more spots later. I guess I am OCD about that stuff
 
#922 ·
I should be getting the 3M tape next week in the mail.. I will post up some before and after pics of the spots where I am seeing the need for it. I already have cable protectors in spots and some tape in cable rub spots but am going to redo some of that as well. The biggest area where I am seeing rock scratches is in the rear between the frame and tire, nothing too concerning though, I just want to protect it. I am anal about cleaning my bikes... partly because I enjoy listening to music with some beers out in the garage while tinkering with my bikes.
 
#924 ·
Add me to the growing list of folks jumping at the RIP RDO deals out there. Got in on the CC 10% off w components + Active Junky cash back for a killer deal.

On big question, I am buying a 140mm travel Pike for the front and see there is a 51mm offset option or one that mentions no offset. Which do I need and what does this offset do?
 
#925 ·
I like the 46mm off set pike ( more stable )

the 51 off set makes the bike turn a little faster ( twitchier ) & wonder a little more on the climbs.

I have Rip9's with both a 46 & 51 & you can't go to far wrong with either, But I do like the 46 more.
 
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