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  1. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by cowpatchman6
    Folks, I just want to know if there are other headseat options to choose from aside from the FSA OEM headset that came with the frame I got, I was thinking a CK, but it seems they don't have anything for the RIP 9. My fork is the OEM Fox RL Tapered. What would you recommend if there is such? Thanks!

    Our integrated headset is the 1.5" x 1.125" standard FSA and CANE CREEK have come up with. For FSA, there are only a couple of different options, and basically have to do with the top cap material (there is a carbon top cap
    version). For Cane Creek, they have a few different models, most notably
    the Frustrum Integrated.



    Chris
    Niner Bikes

  2. #152
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    An awesome season it has been so far indeed, thanks to an absolutely fantastic bike! Niner Bikes - I salute you from the bottom of my shorts for giving me the opportunity to ride such a killer bike! THANK YOU!!

  3. #153
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    If you had to go with one fork for the 2009 niner R.I.P 9 what would it be? I am more a XC rider and want something that climbs really well. I am 5'7 and a half so I am not sure if I should go small or medium? I have shorter legs and a larger torso.

    Thanks In Advance!

  4. #154
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    will the new CK inset fit? the do plan to make a tapered version.

  5. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by raekism
    If you had to go with one fork for the 2009 niner R.I.P 9 what would it be? I am more a XC rider and want something that climbs really well. I am 5'7 and a half so I am not sure if I should go small or medium? I have shorter legs and a larger torso.

    Thanks In Advance!
    I am 5'10.5" and ride a Medium, and it seems like quite a big bike. I would go for the small. Way better to have a frame sized slightly small than slightly big.

    I rode the 07 RIP9 with a Reba @ 100mm and the 09 RIP9 with the OEM Fox 120mm. Both of these give a HA of about 68 deg and that feels right to me for XC riding. The Fox stiffens up nicely if that's what you want and it is waaay more rigid than the Reba, which makes a lot of difference in high speed corners.

    Basically the guys know what they are doing and the factory options are really good.
    All problems in mountain biking can be solved by going faster, except the ones that are caused by going too fast.

  6. #156
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    PS The 07 + 100mm climbed differently than the 09 + 120mm. I get more front wheel lift with the new setup but the tradeoff is much better handling of gnar climbs, in terms of rear wheel tracking mostly. I think you could finesse the front wheel lift with stem and riser bar choices, but in an odd way it works for me as it lets me hoist the front over/around uphill obstacles more easily.

    There is a moment when you point the new RIP9 downhill and the question really becomes irrelevant because it lights up like a xmas tree. I can only imagine how fun the WFO is.
    All problems in mountain biking can be solved by going faster, except the ones that are caused by going too fast.

  7. #157
    Carbon & Ti rule
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    Go the Fox

    I'm very happy with the Fox to.
    I have a 6 Berth camper van that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  8. #158
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    R.I.P. - Czech republic / Prague

    -Main purpose (XC, AM, etc): AM
    -Trail location/terrain: Across Czech Rep to Lago Di Garda
    -Frame Year/Size/Color: 09/X-Large/Black
    -Rider Weight: 94kg
    -Rider Height: 191cm
    -Stem: Race Face Evolve
    -Seatpost: Race Face Evolve
    -Saddle: WTB Silverado Pro
    -Handlebar: Niner flat top bar
    -Headset: Chris King
    -Rear Shock: Stock RP23
    -Fork: Stock Fox 29 RL
    -Brake Setup: Avid Elixir R - 180mm rotor front, 160mm rotor rear
    -Drivetrain Setup: 2009 XT/SLX
    -Cranck: Stylo EDIT: Change them to SLX, from Stylos the chain was falling in between frame and crank, now its fine
    -Grips: Ergon GE1 white
    -Tires: Continental Mountain King 2.2" (also bought same ones in 2.4") EDIT: I change them to Racing Ralphs 2.25 and iam happy now.
    -Wheels: American Classic 29 Alphatype
    -Build Weight: 13,5kg
    -Other 29er bikes owned: None (previous bike Specialized Enduro, Scott Nitrous SL)
    -Mileage on RIP9: 400km over the last week

    -Comments, etc: Pretty nice. Fast rolling, climbing, enough good in descent
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by prague77; 09-22-2009 at 11:55 AM.

  9. #159
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    My replacement for a broken Jet. Decided to build it. Looks pretty nice I think.



  10. #160
    Carbon & Ti rule
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    Nice bike

    Quote Originally Posted by tigerwah
    My replacement for a broken Jet. Decided to build it. Looks pretty nice I think.


    Yep that looks good what do you think of the way it rides ?
    I have a 6 Berth camper van that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  11. #161
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    Yep that looks good what do you think of the way it rides ?
    Rides very good. Surprisingly different than the Jet. Climbs quite well for a 29lb bike and descends even better. A perfect trail bike.

  12. #162
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    Rip 9 Raw

    My new RIP 9
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #163
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    My Jet replacement

    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #164
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    My new Rip 9

    Picked the bike up late Saturday afternoon. Took it over to some local trails Sunday morning with some friends for it's maiden voyage and boy this bikes rocks! Super stiff and just corners like it is on rails! Rolls over the trail chatter unlike my old 26er Heckler.

    My new Rip 9


    Build spec:

    Product Type Description Quantity
    Frame Niner R.I.P. 9 Raw XL 22.00 25.25 Disc 1
    Fork Fox OEM F29 120 RL | Black | 15mm 120-120mm w/ tapered steerer tube 1-1/2 to 1-1/8 1
    Brake Avid Elixir CR | Black | 185.00 1
    Brake Avid Elixir CR | Black | 160.00 1
    Shifter SRAM X.O. Trigger Red Ano finish 1
    Cable SRAM Stainless | 1
    Housing SRAM Housing | Black 1
    Crank Shimano XT Aluminum 175.00 22-32-44 1
    BottomBracket Chris King Bottom Bracket | Aluminum | Red 1
    FrontDerailleur Shimano XT-M771 Bottom Swing 1
    Cassette Shimano XT M770 | Steel | 11-34 1
    RearDerailleur SRAM X.9 | Silver | L 1
    RearDerailleur RIP 9 Maxle drop outs 12 x 135 1
    Chain SRAM PC-971 1
    FrontHub Hadley 15 x 100mm Red 32H 1
    RearHub Hadley DH 135 x 12mm Red 32h 1 72 point engagement
    Rim Stans NoTUBES ZTR Flow 29er | Black | 32 | UST 1
    Rim Stans NoTUBES ZTR Flow 29er | Black | 32 | UST 1
    Spoke DT Swiss Competition 14/15g | Silver | 32
    Spoke DT Swiss Competition 14/15g | Silver | 32
    Nipple DT Swiss Alloy | Red 64
    Tire Maxxis Ardent 29" x 2.25 MP60 2
    Tube Butyl Presta 1.90-2.70 | 48.00mm 1
    Tube Butyl Presta 1.90-2.70 | 48.00mm 1
    Headset Niner OEM INT for RIP 9 | Black 1
    Stem Thomson Elite X4 | Black | 90.00 | 0.00 1
    Handlebar Easton EA70 Monkeybar | Black | Aluminum | Low Rise 1
    Grip Ergon GA 1 -Large STD Black 1
    Seatpost Crank Brothers Joplin w/Remote Black/red 382mm Setback 1
    Saddle WTB Pure V Race | Black 1

    Upgrades: Added a skidplate for the lower linkage. Will go tubeless on the tires. May try a 110mm x 10 degree rise X4 stem to see how that feels.

    Weight as is: 30.64 lbs.

    pics here.

    http://picasaweb.google.com/theresaglav ... 2572765170

  15. #165
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    You guys running the tripples, are they working out for you? Was surprised to see so many in here when there's a couple threads dedicated to the Chainsuck issue in relation to using a tripple ring crank with a ring larger than 40t. Really interested in this frame, so just trying to figure out what exactly is going on with it, if maybe it's a QC issue and some people are fine while others aren't Personally wouldn't have an issue if I couldn't run a ring bigger than 40t anyway as I'd be using the bike for purely AM and that's way more gear than you need for that.

  16. #166
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    Your link to picasa seems to be broken

  17. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jacks_Back
    You guys running the tripples, are they working out for you? Was surprised to see so many in here when there's a couple threads dedicated to the Chainsuck issue in relation to using a tripple ring crank with a ring larger than 40t. Really interested in this frame, so just trying to figure out what exactly is going on with it, if maybe it's a QC issue and some people are fine while others aren't Personally wouldn't have an issue if I couldn't run a ring bigger than 40t anyway as I'd be using the bike for purely AM and that's way more gear than you need for that.

    Iam running triple.
    i had problems when i used Stylo crankset, after replace it to Shimano SLX, everything is ok.

  18. #168
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    See if this works. If not I will post up individual photos

    http://picasaweb.google.com/theresag...30812572765170

  19. #169
    Carbon & Ti rule
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    Hi just run a 40 tooth outer ring & on most cranks it works well,Don't let it put you off this frame is worth it,It is because the rear triange is made to take large tyres.
    I have a 6 Berth camper van that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  20. #170
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    out of all your picasa pics I think, this one is the best




  21. #171
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    Pics of my nw Rip 9

    Quote Originally Posted by ellen_muenchen
    out of all your picasa pics I think, this one is the best



    I think so too. I was pulling out of the driveway to got take it on it's maiden voyage/shakedown ride. I have to say the bike rode fantastically! It exceeded my expectations for sure.

  22. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave.
    Niner RIP9 Setup Thread

    RIP9 owners, here's your chance to share your setup and help other riders that are researching sizing and spec'ing of RIP9s. This thread should be used for others to browse frame size, rider height/inseam/weight, riding terrain, and stem/seatpost/bar setups most of all. If you're looking for detailed discussion of travel issues, etc you may want to check the RIP 9 Fine Tuning and Development Thread.
    Frame size: XL
    Rider height: 192cm
    Inseam: 91cm
    Weight: 81kg
    Riding Terrain: Midwest trails which includes logs, roots, ruts, creek crossings with rocks, but nothing too gnarly
    Fork: Fox OEM 120mm with FIT
    Stem: Ritchey 100mm 5 degree flip-flop
    Seatpost: Thomson Masterpiece
    Bar: Syntace flat bar with a 12 degree sweep
    Crankset: XT 22/32/38 (altered to 38T due to chain stick issues between 44T and yoke)
    Tires: IRD Fire XC Pros
    Rims: Velocity Blunts
    Hubs: Chris King ISO Disc (front converted from 9mm to 15mm TA with the King kit)
    Spokes: Sapim CX-Ray

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/4093747667/" title="RIPit by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2535/4093747667_4e02bbf201_b.jpg" width="1024" height="767" alt="RIPit" /></a>

  23. #173
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    -Main purpose (XC, AM, etc): AM
    -Trail location/terrain: ABQ NM, rocks and high desert features
    -Frame Year/Size/Color: 09/Large/Milk Dud Ano
    -Rider Weight: 180 lbs
    -Rider Height/Inseam: 6’/34.5"
    -Stem (length/rise): Thomson 50mm, 0 rise
    -Seatpost: Syncros
    -Handlebar: Syncros Bulk (27.25" wide)
    -Fork: Fox F29 RLC 120mm w/ QR15
    -Brake Setup: Avid Elixir CR 185 front, 160 rear
    -Drivetrain Setup: 2x9 w/ XT front derailleur and shifter, XO rear derailleur and shifter. Hope Stainless Bottom Bracket w/ polished XT cranks (waiting for adapter to run Truvativ Noirs)
    -Tires: Continental Mountain King 2.4 front, Panancer Rampage 2.35 rear (both tubeless)
    -Wheels: Hope Pro II laced to Stan’s Flows
    -Build Weight: 28.8lbs (according to bathroom scale)

    -Other 29er bikes owned: Redline Monocog, Niner Jet9
    -Mileage on RIP9: Maiden voyage was earlier tonight, so maybe 8?
    -Future Changes: Thomson seatpost, wider bars…



    Last edited by Calhoun; 12-07-2009 at 09:11 PM.

  24. #174
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    External or Internal BB

    So I've recently started to purchase components for my new RIP 9 frame and have enjoyed pouring over this forum for ideas. One area I don't have any experience with is whether or not an external BB will affect the chainline if I set up the bike as a 1x9 using this widgit chainring.

    Do externals and internals pretty much have the same length? Though I haven't seen one in person I imagine they are pretty close.

    And do I have to get cranks that will specifically fit the external BB? I'm looking at getting these middleburns (RS-8) but they offer them only in square tapered or ISIS. Do they have to specifically say they are compatible with external BBs in order for them to work?

    All of this research is fun but also exhausting as I'm anxious to get my bike built so I can enjoy riding it.

  25. #175
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    External or Internal BB

    So I've recently started to purchase components for my new RIP 9 frame and have enjoyed pouring over this forum for ideas. One area I don't have any experience with is whether or not an external BB will affect the chainline if I set up the bike as a 1x9 using this widgit chainring.

    Do externals and internals pretty much have the same length? Though I haven't seen one in person I imagine they are pretty close.

    And do I have to get cranks that will specifically fit the external BB? I'm looking at getting these middleburns (RS-8) but they offer them only in square tapered or ISIS. Do they have to specifically say they are compatible with external BBs in order for them to work?

    And what about ceramic bearings vs. stainless? Is there much of a difference?

    All of this research is fun but also exhausting as I'm anxious to get my bike built so I can enjoy riding it.

  26. #176
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    Seriously dude, with all possible respect..............You shouldn't be specing out the build for your bike if you do not understand this! Straight up fact, if you don't understand this, then what other things don't you understand properly about other parts for the bike Go to your local shop and let them help you order/choose the parts.

    Quote Originally Posted by cinemachine
    So I've recently started to purchase components for my new RIP 9 frame and have enjoyed pouring over this forum for ideas. One area I don't have any experience with is whether or not an external BB will affect the chainline if I set up the bike as a 1x9 using this widgit chainring.

    Do externals and internals pretty much have the same length? Though I haven't seen one in person I imagine they are pretty close.

    And do I have to get cranks that will specifically fit the external BB? I'm looking at getting these middleburns (RS-8) but they offer them only in square tapered or ISIS. Do they have to specifically say they are compatible with external BBs in order for them to work?

    All of this research is fun but also exhausting as I'm anxious to get my bike built so I can enjoy riding it.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
    MTB Barbados
    My Phantom pics

  27. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by cinemachine
    So I've recently started to purchase components for my new RIP 9 frame and have enjoyed pouring over this forum for ideas. One area I don't have any experience with is whether or not an external BB will affect the chainline if I set up the bike as a 1x9 using this widgit chainring.

    Do externals and internals pretty much have the same length? Though I haven't seen one in person I imagine they are pretty close.

    And do I have to get cranks that will specifically fit the external BB? I'm looking at getting these middleburns (RS-8) but they offer them only in square tapered or ISIS. Do they have to specifically say they are compatible with external BBs in order for them to work?

    And what about ceramic bearings vs. stainless? Is there much of a difference?

    All of this research is fun but also exhausting as I'm anxious to get my bike built so I can enjoy riding it.
    The Widgit is designed to fit on the Shimano BCD cranksets. The BCD for the Widgit uses the inner or granny ring slot to attach and is a bridge between the granny ring and the middle ring. It doesn't matter if the Shimano crankset is an older version (Octalink with a internal BB or the newer external BB models).

    The Middleburns are for internal bottom brackets only - be it square taper or ISIS. If you are going with the Middleburns, you will need to get the correct spindle length that allows enough room for the crank arms to clear the chainstays. If it wasn't so damn cold, I could help you out by swapping around my Middleburns from my Dos Niner to my RIP to let you know what length of ISIS you would need, but I would need a 6 pack incentive. My guess is the range between 113 - 118mm would do it, but which one?

    What we know about the new RIP 9 is that it is designed for a bit wider chainline than previous bikes to take the big meat tires in the rear, but you can toss some of that out the window since running a 1 x 9 is tad different than a 3 x 9. Pushing the chainline out (using a longer spindle) a bit with a 1 x 9 that is connected to the granny (or between the granny and middle ring slot) is not going to hurt anything in terms of shifting. It will all still work dandy, but your Q-Factor (distance between crank arms) will increase a bit.

    You cannot mix and match the internal BB and external BB gear. You have to go with one or the other. What the RIP's chainline means for running an internal BB is that one has to be careful to choose a spindle length that allows clearance for the crank arms so they do not scrape or hit the chainstays on the RIP. This means a bit wider Q-Factor than one could get with a 47.5mm chainline, but it won't break the deal if you have to widen the Q-Factor a bit.

    If buying the Widgit (or an external BB crankset), spacers will be provided to adjust chainline a bit out (if needed), so no worries there.

    Since I have lots of trial and error experience with the internal BB spindles and chainline, I can say that my Race Face Taperlock 110mm spindle is too short to use on the RIP 9 with my Race Face Turbine cranks. I would have to get a longer spindle length to make those work on there. I haven't tried that yet, but it looks like a 113mm would also be a tad too short to give enough clearance for the Turbines. Keep in mind, that Race Face Turbine cranks have a very narrow Q-Factor (that's why I bought them), so pushing them out will be required more than many other crank arm brands that are not so narrow.

    So a 113mm might work fine and dandy for a Middleburn, but not the Race Face Turbines. I currently am using an older Shimano XT Hollowtech II with an Octalink BB with a spindle length of 118mm on my RIP 9. I think a 113mm would work fine since I have plenty of clearance between the arms and the chainstays right now. I have a couple in the parts bin and I will probably swap out once I get around to it to see if it works. No guarantees, but eyeballing things makes me think I'd be okay. If not, the 118mm is fine and I am used to it. [Update on 12/18/09: I swapped out to the 113mm Octalink spindle this morning, adjusted the front derailleur and all is fine and dandy.]

    In other words, depending on the brand and the bend or lack of bend in the crank arms due to their design - it is kind of trial and error to find the best spindle length that fits. Best would be to find an LBS that will let you try a few lengths before settling on which one you need to actually buy and use. Also keep in mind - and here's where it gets wierd - not everyone's 110mm or 113mm spindle length is created equal when it comes to square taper. Some cranks sit in more on the square taper than others. So that's a whole other part of the equation requiring trial and error.

    If you call the guy at Mountain Bike Tandems, he'll give you advice on which spindle length to try. Also, make sure that if you are getting the Middleburns, you get the 64/104 BCD spindle as that is what the Widgit fits on.

    BB

    Now that my RIP is broken in, it's time to think about gearing while the white stuff has snubbed out my trails for the season. Will Santa remember a Widgit and a Skid Plate for my stocking this year?

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/4194815891/" title="RiPPer by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4004/4194815891_6846a29ce7_b.jpg" width="1024" height="623" alt="RiPPer" /></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/4194804743/" title="RiPPer4 by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4010/4194804743_001a8beb09_b.jpg" width="1024" height="687" alt="RiPPer4" /></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/4195562522/" title="RiPPer3 by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2579/4195562522_b9cabeaa5b_b.jpg" width="816" height="1024" alt="RiPPer3" /></a>
    Last edited by BruceBrown; 12-18-2009 at 10:12 AM.

  28. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown
    The Widgit is designed to fit on the Shimano BCD cranksets. The BCD for the Widgit uses the inner or granny ring slot to attach and is a bridge between the granny ring and the middle ring. It doesn't matter if the Shimano crankset is an older version (Octalink with a internal BB or the newer external BB models).

    The Middleburns are for internal bottom brackets only - be it square taper or ISIS. If you are going with the Middleburns, you will need to get the correct spindle length that allows enough room for the crank arms to clear the chainstays. If it wasn't so damn cold, I could help you out by swapping around my Middleburns from my Dos Niner to my RIP to let you know what length of ISIS you would need, but I would need a 6 pack incentive. My guess is the range between 113 - 118mm would do it, but which one?

    What we know about the new RIP 9 is that it is designed for a bit wider chainline than previous bikes to take the big meat tires in the rear, but you can toss some of that out the window since running a 1 x 9 is tad different than a 3 x 9. Pushing the chainline out (using a longer spindle) a bit with a 1 x 9 that is connected to the granny (or between the granny and middle ring slot) is not going to hurt anything in terms of shifting. It will all still work dandy, but your Q-Factor (distance between crank arms) will increase a bit.

    You cannot mix and match the internal BB and external BB gear. You have to go with one or the other. What the RIP's chainline means for running an internal BB is that one has to be careful to choose a spindle length that allows clearance for the crank arms so they do not scrape or hit the chainstays on the RIP. This means a bit wider Q-Factor than one could get with a 47.5mm chainline, but it won't break the deal if you have to widen the Q-Factor a bit.

    If buying the Widgit (or an external BB crankset), spacers will be provided to adjust chainline a bit out (if needed), so no worries there.

    Since I have lots of trial and error experience with the internal BB spindles and chainline, I can say that my Race Face Taperlock 110mm spindle is too short to use on the RIP 9 with my Race Face Turbine cranks. I would have to get a longer spindle length to make those work on there. I haven't tried that yet, but it looks like a 113mm would also be a tad too short to give enough clearance for the Turbines. Keep in mind, that Race Face Turbine cranks have a very narrow Q-Factor (that's why I bought them), so pushing them out will be required more than many other crank arm brands that are not so narrow.

    So a 113mm might work fine and dandy for a Middleburn, but not the Race Face Turbines. I currently am using an older Shimano XT Hollowtech II with an Octalink BB with a spindle length of 118mm on my RIP 9. I think a 113mm would work fine since I have plenty of clearance between the arms and the chainstays right now. I have a couple in the parts bin and I will probably swap out once I get around to it to see if it works. No guarantees, but eyeballing things makes me think I'd be okay. If not, the 118mm is fine and I am used to it. In other words, depending on the brand and the bend or lack of bend in the crank arms due to their design - it is kind of trial and error to find the best spindle length that fits. Best would be to find an LBS that will let you try a few lengths before settling on which one you need to actually buy and use. Also keep in mind - and here's where it gets wierd - not everyone's 110mm or 113mm spindle length is created equal when it comes to square taper. Some cranks sit in more on the square taper than others. So that's a whole other part of the equation requiring trial and error.

    If you call the guy at Mountain Bike Tandems, he'll give you advice on which spindle length to try. Also, make sure that if you are getting the Middleburns, you get the 64/104 BCD spindle as that is what the Widgit fits on.

    BB
    Bruce,

    I have to say that it is pretty cool of you to take your time and try to help people out, pretty much all of the time. A lot of people come on here just to complain or have an agenda, but it's people like you that make this site worth coming to IMO. Cheers.

  29. #179
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    My 29er RIP 9... 9 Niner RIP 9 pictures for 2009... Go Niner!!!



















  30. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by neomaster888
    My 29er RIP 9... 9 Niner RIP 9 pictures for 2009... Go Niner!!!



    Consider shortening that cable housing next to the ft. der. It likes to touch and rub on the ft. der.

  31. #181
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    My RIP9 out on the trails..


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    Last edited by Boyonabyke; 01-08-2010 at 09:06 PM.

  33. #183
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    09 RIP (M) in raw

    -Main purpose (XC, AM, etc): AM
    -Trail location/terrain: SOCAL San Diego area
    -Frame Year/Size/Color: 09/Medium/Raw/12mm Maxle lite
    -Rider Weight: 225
    -Rider Height/Inseam: 5'10"/30"
    -Stem (length/rise): Thomson, 90mm, 0 degree. 5mm spacer underneath.
    -Seatpost: Thomson Setback
    -Handlebar: Raceface Atlas AM in Red 31"
    -Rear Shock: Stock RP23 w/ Boost Valve
    -Rear settings (psi, etc.): 180psi, 2 clicks before fastest rebound
    -Fork: 09 Reba Team Maxle Lite
    -Fork settings (psi, etc.): Can't remember.
    -Brake Setup: Formula Mega, 200mm front / 180mm rear.
    -Drivetrain Setup: 2x9, SRAM X-9 and XT, XT cranks with 22T/32T with Raceface bash and Crankskins.
    -Tires: Schwalbe Racing Ralphs 2.4 tubeless 28 PSI rear/24 PSI front
    -Wheels: Hope Pro 2 laced to Stans Flows. DT comp spokes. Tubeless with Stans tape. 20mm front/12mm rear
    -Build Weight: haven't weighed it yet

    -Other 29er bikes owned: Niner EMD 9 Single Speed
    -Mileage on RIP9: Needs more!!!!!
    -Future Changes: Cutting down bars. More aggresive tires.
    -Comments, etc: Custom bash for linkage. Gonna be lovin this thing for a long time! Super solid with 20mm and 12mm thru axles.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-dsc07067.jpg  

    The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-dsc07068.jpg  


  34. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02Bullit
    -Handlebar: Raceface Atlas AM in Red 31"

    -Future Changes: Cutting down bars...
    Nice Bike!

    I added the same bar to my RIP. It is perfect at stock length, I can't imagine cutting it down.


    edit to add pic:

  35. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02Bullit
    -Main purpose (XC, AM, etc): AM
    -Trail location/terrain: SOCAL San Diego area
    -Frame Year/Size/Color: 09/Medium/Raw/12mm Maxle lite
    -Rider Weight: 225
    -Rider Height/Inseam: 5'10"/30"
    -Stem (length/rise): Thomson, 90mm, 0 degree. 5mm spacer underneath.
    -Seatpost: Thomson Setback
    -Handlebar: Raceface Atlas AM in Red 31"
    -Rear Shock: Stock RP23 w/ Boost Valve
    -Rear settings (psi, etc.): 180psi, 2 clicks before fastest rebound
    -Fork: 09 Reba Team Maxle Lite
    -Fork settings (psi, etc.): Can't remember.
    -Brake Setup: Formula Mega, 200mm front / 180mm rear.
    -Drivetrain Setup: 2x9, SRAM X-9 and XT, XT cranks with 22T/32T with Raceface bash and Crankskins
    -Tires: Schwalbe Racing Ralphs 2.4 tubeless 28 PSI rear/24 PSI front
    -Wheels: Hope Pro 2 laced to Stans Flows. DT comp spokes. Tubeless with Stans tape. 20mm front/12mm rear
    -Build Weight: haven't weighed it yet
    -Other 29er bikes owned: Niner EMD 9 Single Speed
    -Mileage on RIP9: Needs more!!!!!
    -Future Changes: Cutting down bars. More aggresive tires.
    -Comments, etc: Custom bash for linkage. Gonna be lovin this thing for a long time! Super solid with 20mm and 12mm thru axles.

    how do you like those formulas megas? nice build by the way...

  36. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by david8613
    how do you like those formulas megas? nice build by the way...
    Thanks. Love the Megas. I have the 09 versions. Tons of power and modulation. I've seen some pulsing up front at the axle when braking from slower speeds, doesn't do it at faster speeds though. I have Formulas on both bikes and don't plan on using anything else!

    Calhoun - The bars are really comfortable and stable. I also love the rise and sweep of the Raceface bars. The only reason I thought of cutting them was because a couple of times now I've had things just reach out and grab me! Not very fun when you're haulin and the bars try to turn on you all of a sudden!

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    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown
    Frame size: XL
    Rider height: 192cm
    Inseam: 91cm
    Weight: 81kg
    Riding Terrain: Midwest trails which includes logs, roots, ruts, creek crossings with rocks, but nothing too gnarly
    Fork: Fox OEM 120mm with FIT
    Stem: Ritchey 100mm 5 degree flip-flop
    Seatpost: Thomson Masterpiece
    Bar: Syntace flat bar with a 12 degree sweep
    Crankset: XT 22/32/38 (altered to 38T due to chain stick issues between 44T and yoke)
    Tires: IRD Fire XC Pros
    Rims: Velocity Blunts
    Hubs: Chris King ISO Disc (front converted from 9mm to 15mm TA with the King kit)
    Spokes: Sapim CX-Ray

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/4093747667/" title="RIPit by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2535/4093747667_4e02bbf201_b.jpg" width="1024" height="767" alt="RIPit" /></a>

    Bruce
    What brand outer ring are you running that has 38 teeth and does it have ramps a pins?

  38. #188
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    Can't remember what rings BB is running (if you search for his built thread it'll say) but I run the Blackspire Super Pro 38t, it's 5mm thick and strong as nails - works as both ring and bash

    Quote Originally Posted by Big Foot
    Bruce
    What brand outer ring are you running that has 38 teeth and does it have ramps a pins?
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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  39. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Foot
    Bruce
    What brand outer ring are you running that has 38 teeth and does it have ramps a pins?
    I cannibalized the 38T middle ring off of my recumbent's Truvativ triple crankset and yes it has ramps and pins. But, I'll be installing the 30/40T middle and outer ring combo that BRUZED custom makes this weekend or next (they just arrived). So the 38T will go back on the recumbent and I will have some sweet gearing on the RIP with a 20/30/40 to cover all my needs and type of riding I do. I won't use the granny around these parts, but will when I travel to the mountains.

    BB

  40. #190
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    Sweet, you finally got them then Still won't go down that low, b ut I'd love to try one of his 30 and 40ts, but money is just to tight right now ehn I have a perfectly fine 38t that's working - I just spin faster if I want to go faster Looking forward to your thoughts on them and some nice pics BTW, please keep the scratches to a minimum,

    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown
    I cannibalized the 38T middle ring off of my recumbent's Truvativ triple crankset and yes it has ramps and pins. But, I'll be installing the 30/40T middle and outer ring combo that BRUZED custom makes this weekend or next (they just arrived). So the 38T will go back on the recumbent and I will have some sweet gearing on the RIP with a 20/30/40 to cover all my needs and type of riding I do. I won't use the granny around these parts, but will when I travel to the mountains.

    BB
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  41. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    BTW, please keep the scratches to a minimum,
    I haven't taken a tumble yet.

    I'll post up a photo once I install the rings. According to the directions, I've got to do a little work on the XT spider before installing the rings so they fit nice and flush.

    BB

  42. #192
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    Well take off those whimpy little tyres and throw on some real meat and go ride that thing to it's limits. I highly recomend Ardent 2.25" REAR/Rampage 2.35" FRONT, excellent combo that's both quite fast rolling with a tremendous amount of grip

    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown
    I haven't taken a tumble yet.

    I'll post up a photo once I install the rings. According to the directions, I've got to do a little work on the XT spider before installing the rings so they fit nice and flush.

    BB
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  43. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    Well take off those whimpy little tyres and throw on some real meat and go ride that thing to it's limits. I highly recomend Ardent 2.25" REAR/Rampage 2.35" FRONT, excellent combo that's both quite fast rolling with a tremendous amount of grip
    Wimpy little tires? Been running those Fire XC Pros that measure out a 2.2" all winter since they are the most aggressive tread I've got (pix above). Of course, nasty rolling resistance to go along with that....

    However, it's got an Ardent 2.4 up front and a Ralph 2.4 in the rear at the moment. Not too wimpy if you ask me in terms of volume. I'll probably pop the other Ardent 2.4 on the rear when I change out the rings (that way I only have to wash my hands once ). Will that make you feel better? ;-}

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/4297238299/" title="RIPwMEAT by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4042/4297238299_64bdd84961_b.jpg" width="1024" height="752" alt="RIPwMEAT" /></a>

    BB
    Last edited by BruceBrown; 01-28-2010 at 07:24 AM.

  44. #194
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    ... and if we just ...

    I'll agree that the 2.4" Ardent should be a nice tyre (only have experience with the 2.25") but I'd be skeptical pairing that up with a RR, unless it was the Snake Skin version (which the 2.4" isn't). Dual 2.4" Ardents F&R would be some serious meat for sure, not sure how they'd be on your terrain - let us know I'd maybe be a bit of a WW and go with the 2.25" in the rear and leave the 2.4" upfront for some weight loss and better RR.



    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown
    Wimpy little tires? Been running those Fire XC Pros that measure out a 2.2" all winter since they are the most aggressive tread I've got (pix above). Of course, nasty rolling resistance to go along with that....

    However, it's got an Ardent 2.4 up front and a Ralph 2.4 in the rear at the moment. Not too wimpy if you ask me in terms of volume. I'll probably pop the other Ardent 2.4 on the rear when I change out the rings (that way I only have to wash my hands once ). Will that make you feel better? ;-}

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/4297238299/" title="RIPwMEAT by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4042/4297238299_64bdd84961_b.jpg" width="1024" height="752" alt="RIPwMEAT" /></a>

    BB
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  45. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    Can't remember what rings BB is running (if you search for his built thread it'll say) but I run the Blackspire Super Pro 38t, it's 5mm thick and strong as nails - works as both ring and bash

    Is the Blackspire super pro 38t a middle ring, that you mounted as a outer ring,
    did you need longer chain ring bolts?

    Are you running a triple, and what other rings and crank are you running?

  46. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    I'll agree that the 2.4" Ardent should be a nice tyre (only have experience with the 2.25") but I'd be skeptical pairing that up with a RR, unless it was the Snake Skin version (which the 2.4" isn't). Dual 2.4" Ardents F&R would be some serious meat for sure, not sure how they'd be on your terrain - let us know I'd maybe be a bit of a WW and go with the 2.25" in the rear and leave the 2.4" upfront for some weight loss and better RR.

    I don't think they do the snake-skin in the 2.4 Ralph - just the 2.25. I won't be able to hit dirt for a couple of months due to it being winter and there is snow everywhere. But the Ralph is fine in the white stuff for my dog walks/rides every morning which is why I put it on there. I ran the Ralphs all winter last year as well because they make good snow tires.

    I think the 2.4 Ardents front and rear will be very nice for the terrain where I live for the "fun" bike. But I will have to wait and see what kind of wattage that takes to power up the hills. It may just be overkill and too tiring at which point going mullet with a smaller tire in the back will be the ticket, or running some less industrious meat for the fun stuff. Ardents roll plenty fast in spite of the weight, but I'm sure there will be a penalty on the climbs. In spite of that, they're perfect for my rigid Karate Monkey....

    Now if it I want to do some fast XC riding/racing on the RIP - I'll just throw some race tires on there (Aspens, Nano's, Ralph 2.25's or Race Kings) and have at it.

    BB

  47. #197
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    I guess that all depends on where you mount it, as you can use either side of the arms and mount it in middle or big ring position. As for bolts, no just used normal single ring chainring bolts. I run a 24/38 ring combo along with a 7 spd 34-15 on an SS hub.

    Quote Originally Posted by Big Foot
    Is the Blackspire super pro 38t a middle ring, that you mounted as a outer ring,
    did you need longer chain ring bolts?

    Are you running a triple, and what other rings and crank are you running?
    No, they don't do the Snakeskin in the 2.4" (dumb really). Yeah I know you're snow bound, was just saying, bet they float nice on the snow without having to worry about sharp stuff. Do you have a 2.25" Ardent or only the 2.4"s? What's your terrain like, mostly hardpack dirt and then roots? Just curious as I haven't got a load fo time on the Ardent as a front tyre (running Crossmark R/Ardent 2.25" F) but I took a HARD dive this afternoon when it washed out going into a hairpin on some rock covered with loose stuff Really not exactly sure what happened, was coming into the corner with a guy ahead of me on the outside, hit the brakes planning to just lightly wash the rear around and all of a sudden the front went 90 degrees and I got planted on solid rock and of all places on my bad hip Hoping the pressures were just to low (the tyre was quite soft to squash, so I added some air after, didn't take a reading to see exactly what PSI) rode pretty good after that. I like the combo though, fast as heck and grips like madd when climbing. Not sure if continuing the ride though was a good idea, especially when it happened less than 1 mile into it The riding wasn't bad, but when I had to walk, it hurt like crazy.

    Man I'm glad you didn't say Crows as well that would just have been utter sacrilidge

    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown
    I don't think they do the snake-skin in the 2.4 Ralph - just the 2.25. I won't be able to hit dirt for a couple of months due to it being winter and there is snow everywhere. But the Ralph is fine in the white stuff for my dog walks/rides every morning which is why I put it on there. I ran the Ralphs all winter last year as well because they make good snow tires.

    I think the 2.4 Ardents front and rear will be very nice for the terrain where I live for the "fun" bike. But I will have to wait and see what kind of wattage that takes to power up the hills. It may just be overkill and too tiring at which point going mullet with a smaller tire in the back will be the ticket, or running some less industrious meat for the fun stuff. Ardents roll plenty fast in spite of the weight, but I'm sure there will be a penalty on the climbs. In spite of that, they're perfect for my rigid Karate Monkey....

    Now if it I want to do some fast XC riding/racing on the RIP - I'll just throw some race tires on there (Aspens, Nano's, Ralph 2.25's or Race Kings) and have at it.

    BB
    Last edited by LyNx; 01-28-2010 at 06:21 PM.
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  48. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    No, they don't do the Snakeskin in the 2.4" (dumb really). Yeah I know you're snow bound, was just saying, bet they float nice on the snow without having to worry about sharp stuff. Do you have a 2.25" Ardent or only the 2.4"s? What's your terrain like, mostly hardpack dirt and then roots? Just curious as I haven't got a load fo time on the Ardent as a front tyre (running Crossmark R/Ardent 2.25" F) but I took a HARD dive this afternoon when it washed out going into a hairpin on some rock covered with loose stuff Really not exactly sure what happened, was coming into the corner with a guy ahead of me on the outside, hit the brakes planning to just lightly wash the rear around and all of a sudden the front went 90 degrees and I got planted on solid rock and of all places on my bad hip Hoping the pressures were just to low (the tyre was quite soft to squash, so I added some air after, didn't take a reading to see exactly what PSI) rode pretty good after that. I like the combo though, fast as heck and grips like madd when climbing. Not sure if continuing the ride though was a good idea, especially when it happened less than 1 mile into it The riding wasn't bad, but when I had to walk, it hurt like crazy.

    Man I'm glad you didn't say Crows as well that would just have been utter sacrilidge
    Crows will be run on the Dos and JET - not the RIP.

    Pretty much devoid of a lot of nasty rocks where I live, but the exist on a lot of courses I travel to for races. My locale includes lots of off camber, roots, logs, sand, hard clay (when it's dry - and God knows what it is when it's wet or between wet and dry). I do not have a 2.25 Ardent, so cannot compare between the 2.4. Just from reading other's posts about the differences, it sounds like the 2.4 up front is an entirely different beast than the 2.25. Ditto for the sidewalls - as in more durable on the 2.4.

    I can say that of all the tires I've got, the 2.4 is the best front tire I've tried. Beats the Nevegal, Exiwolf, Fire XC Pro (although that's a damn good one to for sticking corners with no worries), XR 2.25, Ralph 2.4/2.25, Klaw, and of course all the race weenies I run. It's big meat. Running it front and rear is going to cost me a lot of extra watts and I will fatigue a lot quicker as well as use easier gearing. But, that combo would simply be for all around fun riding.

    Sorry about your washout and hope you heal quickly. You need to ride around and do corners for a few weeks/months on some Crows or Freds or Vulpines to appreciate the rest of your tires.

    BB

  49. #199
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    Yeah, me too Wasn't really feeling too bad yesterday and really wasn't feeling anything with the shoulder and made the mistake of playing fetch with my pup Now the shoulder is aching today and groin on the left leg is pulled from compensating for the right and right calf is cramped from walking funny

    On running the 2.4"s are needing more WATTS, just think how much training you'll be getting, you'll feel like you've added Nitrous and a Turbo when you switch to something lighter

    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown
    Crows will be run on the Dos and JET - not the RIP.

    Pretty much devoid of a lot of nasty rocks where I live, but the exist on a lot of courses I travel to for races. My locale includes lots of off camber, roots, logs, sand, hard clay (when it's dry - and God knows what it is when it's wet or between wet and dry). I do not have a 2.25 Ardent, so cannot compare between the 2.4. Just from reading other's posts about the differences, it sounds like the 2.4 up front is an entirely different beast than the 2.25. Ditto for the sidewalls - as in more durable on the 2.4.

    I can say that of all the tires I've got, the 2.4 is the best front tire I've tried. Beats the Nevegal, Exiwolf, Fire XC Pro (although that's a damn good one to for sticking corners with no worries), XR 2.25, Ralph 2.4/2.25, Klaw, and of course all the race weenies I run. It's big meat. Running it front and rear is going to cost me a lot of extra watts and I will fatigue a lot quicker as well as use easier gearing. But, that combo would simply be for all around fun riding.


    Sorry about your washout and hope you heal quickly. You need to ride around and do corners for a few weeks/months on some Crows or Freds or Vulpines to appreciate the rest of your tires.

    BB
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  50. #200
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    Frame: Large, Maxle TA dropouts
    Fork: Reba Team 120mm, Maxle Light
    Wheels: Stans Flow laced to Hope Pro 2, 36h (Yeah Bro)
    Tires: Maxxis Ardent 2.4 (set up tubeless)
    Other Stuff: Gravity Light stem and crankset, Gravity Carbon 29" bar, Sram X9 rear der, Avid Juicy 7 brakes, funny rotors. Prologo Choice saddle, CB Joplin post, Ti hardware all over for fanciness.

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/91694861@N00/4452343701/" title="The New Rig by hukee, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4060/4452343701_d9f12baa70_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="The New Rig" /></a>

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