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  1. #301
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    Quote Originally Posted by twenty6black View Post
    okay, who has built the lightest RIP...???

    I am hoping to see one below 25lbs.....thx
    Sub 25lb is to low for a Rip9 & if someone did manage to do it , It wouldn't be a good Rip9 just a Light one.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  2. #302
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    Might as well hang that up. If you want to get that light you had better go with the Jet RDO or an Aluminum Jet. You'll still have to work at it either way.

  3. #303
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    Sub 25lb is to low for a Rip9 & if someone did manage to do it , It wouldn't be a good Rip9 just a Light one.
    Not true at all with the last three posts in terms of a light RIP. Keep in mind that Niner highlights that the RIP can ride Freeride, All Mountain, Enduro, and XC. So how one builds up the RIP and which one of those types of riding they target the most will determine a purpose built RIP. Some will be heavier than others, but that doesn't make the light ones "wrong" or the heavy ones "wrong".

    With the advent of carbon rimmed, all mountain wheels - a wheelset such as the Haven AM Carbon comes in at 1590g. Those rims make for a very stiff wheelset exactly designed for most anything one could throw at the RIP. And they drop some nice rotating weight in the process.

    Couple those AM carbon rim wheels (or some wheels built with the Enve AM carbon rims which can be even lighter depending on hub choice at 1482 - 1554g for the wheelset) with a 1 x 9 or 1 x 10 set up using a Widgit and presto - my Enduro/XC purpose built XL RIP is a 25 to 25.x pound bike (depending on tire choice).

    I haven't done this with my RIP. I am just saying that on the spreadsheet swapping out my I9 Enduro wheels and my 3 x 10 Shimano XT crankset rings for the Widgit, FD and left hand twist shifter, cable and housing along with some AM carbon rim wheels would do it for me to hit the 25 pound target on a size XL .

    I wouldn't want to get there by using Crest rims from NoTubes, but the carbon AM rims are a bit of a game changer for combining weight and a firm wheel. That opens up the door for RIP builds to be in the 25 pound range for the Enduro/XC builds and 26-27 pounds or so for the more All Mountain builds.

  4. #304
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    New 2 Me RIP9

    I was lucky enough to pick up an XL RIP 9 last week. I have done four or five rides now up in Humboldt County and am really impressed. Climbs much better than I would have thought. I am upgrading from a steel SWorks hardtail, so this is a big improvement in ride quality.

    Specs:
    XL Rip9 RAW
    REBA RLT Ti 120
    Stans 3.30 HD hubs
    Stans ZTR Flows
    Kenda Nevegal 2.25 Front
    Kenda Karma 2.2 rear
    Thomson 100mm stem
    Niner Flat Bar
    Ergon grips
    Fizik Saddle
    Headset- stock FSA
    Full X0 Build Kit

    Total Weight with pedals=30.49 pounds
    (crank brothers)

    I am looking to upgrade my rear tire for the winter and looking for suggestions. It stays pretty wet up here and I can feel the Karma slipping.

    Pictures to come. Thanks for looking.

  5. #305
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    If anyone is looking to get rid of their size XL complete build RIP shoot me a message!!!!! Thanks.
    Last edited by slimphatty; 11-05-2011 at 05:53 PM.

  6. #306
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Not true at all with the last three posts in terms of a light RIP. Keep in mind that Niner highlights that the RIP can ride Freeride, All Mountain, Enduro, and XC. So how one builds up the RIP and which one of those types of riding they target the most will determine a purpose built RIP. Some will be heavier than others, but that doesn't make the light ones "wrong" or the heavy ones "wrong".

    With the advent of carbon rimmed, all mountain wheels - a wheelset such as the Haven AM Carbon comes in at 1590g. Those rims make for a very stiff wheelset exactly designed for most anything one could throw at the RIP. And they drop some nice rotating weight in the process.

    Couple those AM carbon rim wheels (or some wheels built with the Enve AM carbon rims which can be even lighter depending on hub choice at 1482 - 1554g for the wheelset) with a 1 x 9 or 1 x 10 set up using a Widgit and presto - my Enduro/XC purpose built XL RIP is a 25 to 25.x pound bike (depending on tire choice).

    I haven't done this with my RIP. I am just saying that on the spreadsheet swapping out my I9 Enduro wheels and my 3 x 10 Shimano XT crankset rings for the Widgit, FD and left hand twist shifter, cable and housing along with some AM carbon rim wheels would do it for me to hit the 25 pound target on a size XL .

    I wouldn't want to get there by using Crest rims from NoTubes, but the carbon AM rims are a bit of a game changer for combining weight and a firm wheel. That opens up the door for RIP builds to be in the 25 pound range for the Enduro/XC builds and 26-27 pounds or so for the more All Mountain builds.
    I'm not saying you are wrong, Because you are not, But it would be cheaper to build a sub 25lb RDO than it would be a sub 25 lb Rip9 & you wouldn't have to limit yourselft to small rotors,Single front ring etc

    I do under stand that some people like these types of build, But they are not normaly the ones that come on here to ask if it can be done.

    You could also build a Rip9 as a single speed to get the weight down but it's far form the best bike even in the Niner range to do that to.

    If you did smart builds on both, A sub 25 lb Rip9 wouldn't be as fast as a sub 25lb RDO over a greater range of tracks & may well cost less as well.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  7. #307
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    I'm not saying you are wrong, Because you are not, But it would be cheaper to build a sub 25lb RDO than it would be a sub 25 lb Rip9 & you wouldn't have to limit yourselft to small rotors,Single front ring etc

    I do under stand that some people like these types of build, But they are not normaly the ones that come on here to ask if it can be done.

    You could also build a Rip9 as a single speed to get the weight down but it's far form the best bike even in the Niner range to do that to.

    If you did smart builds on both, A sub 25 lb Rip9 wouldn't be as fast as a sub 25lb RDO over a greater range of tracks & may well cost less as well.
    Yes, but unfortunately the RDO only has 100mm of rear travel. Not a deal breaker for some, but the number of bikes coming out for next year with 120mm front and rear is very promising for the developing do-it-all 29"er category.

    GuitarTed and GrannyGear both have written about the "Every Bike" or "Do All" bike models coming out in the 29"er flavor (especially with the 2012 models). Basically 120mm front and rear travel is what qualifies for the EveryBike category (100mm is not enough and 130mm is too much according to GrannyGear's excellent testing of bikes and his opinion/thoughts. Final build weights in the 25-27 pound range (for size XL) is the target. Obviously, carbon will be more expensive and is probably the ticket to get the weights down in the 25 to sub 25 range. Yet, some aluminum 29"ers with 120 front and rear will be able to be very close to the target weight (Lenz) to make for a bike with plenty of get up and go as well as comfort and cush and a light weight.

    I'm already enjoying my EveryBike in the form of my RIP 9. With a simple swap from my I9 Enduro wheels to the Roval carbon wheels, my bike with a triple (and not light crankset since I run an older XT triple with Octalink BB) and heavy BB7's would be 26.39 pounds in size XL. There are cranksets, cassettes, wheels and brakes that would get me in the 25 and change weight for my XL, but I built mine with gear I already had rather than buy anything new. If one is building new from the ground up, the gear is available to build it light without sacrificing performance. At least, that was my argument and why I posted. A light RIP is not going to diminish the bike's performance with the parts that are available today. Your argument is valid if price was the only issue, but twenty6black didn't ask about price. He only asked who had built the lightest RIP and was hoping to see one that was built sub 25 pounds.

    Single ring or small rotors is not the only way to get a lower weight as there are plenty of lighter cranksets (2 x _ ) and lighter rotors to keep weights low. Perhaps not enough to easily be sub 25, but certainly enough to hit the 25-26 lb target range for the 29"er "do-it-all" fun bike category size XL (even less for smaller sizes). A carbon RIP frame would really play well in the developing "do-it-all" or "EveryBike" category. And of course, the cost would be bumped up. And with the lighter carbon wheels - be even lighter without sacrificing performance.

    But I go back to the comments that were posted about a light RIP not being a good one. What would heavier pedals, heavier saddle, heavier bars, heavier grips, heavier stem, heavier seatpost, heavier wheels, heavier chain, heavier cassette, heavier shifters, heavier rear derailleur, etc... do for my performance on the RIP?

  8. #308
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    But I go back to the comments that were posted about a light RIP not being a good one. What would heavier pedals, heavier saddle, heavier bars, heavier grips, heavier stem, heavier seatpost, heavier wheels, heavier chain, heavier cassette, heavier shifters, heavier rear derailleur, etc... do for my performance on the RIP?[/QUOTE]

    Well you have not named the bits that your sub 25 lb Rip9 would have.

    My scales must not be as kind as some.

    Here is my point.

    My RDO although it may not be the lightest or even have the lightest parts on it but it does have.

    large RDO frame.
    Crest wheels/ ZTR hubs with Ikon Tyres EXC runing tubeless.

    ( The wheels will be replaced with Enve AM when I can get some to fit I9 endro hubs.)

    Rockshox XX fork
    Sram XX brakes with ok 180 XX brake rotors, With match makers for the XX shifters.
    Sram XX BB30 cranks.
    Sram XX front & rear deriliuers.
    Sram XX cassette 11/36
    Easton Mag 80mm stem
    FSA Carbon bars 680mm wide.
    Ergon Grips
    Xpedo Ti/Ti pedals
    Full Ti bolt kit on everything.
    KMC SL chain.
    Light weight SLR XC seat with Ti rails.

    Reverb seat ( Ok not light but I build my bikes to ride were & how I like. )

    This bike is only just under 25 lb

    So how much stronger / better would you build a sub 25 lb RIP9 to make it a better bike.

    Note the Rip9 is only 114mm rear travel not 120mm but you know that.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  9. #309
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    On a side note: I spent 3 hours this past Sunday riding at Landahl Park just outside of Kansas City on my RIP. I've never ridden there before, but was on a business trip so brought along my bike. It's loaded with rocks, roots, drop offs, ledges, technical rocky sections and a bunch of buff, fast flowing singletrack mixed in as well. I was glad I had the RIP and not my JET. Especially when I missed a turn for the less technical route around a corner and flew off a 4 foot drop at full speed. I would have been beaten up or probably would have stopped at 2 hours had I been on the JET. Even with the 2.2 Ikons, I took it all on and had a blast going through the chunk, drop offs and ledges. I probably never would have even tried a RIP had it not been for the recall of my JET and the deal we were offered. Color me surprised and delighted with the addition of the RIP as it is my go to do-it-all bike for most rides when not duking it out in XC races on my JET or Dos.

    Well you have not named the bits that your sub 25 lb Rip9 would have.

    Setting up my size XL RIP using Avid BB7's and my XC Ikon 2.2 tires would be like this for a 1 x 10 RIP with a Widgit single chain ring and retention device and a 2 x 10 with Rotor Q - Ring 27/40:

    1 x 10 racing RIP

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/6325956656/" title="1 x 10 RIP 9 by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6117/6325956656_70931506df_z.jpg" width="544" height="514" alt="1 x 10 RIP 9"></a>

    2 x 9 racing RIP

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/6325956592/" title="2 x 9 RIP 9 by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6037/6325956592_79f66d2cf5_z.jpg" width="569" height="525" alt="2 x 9 RIP 9"></a>

    Here is my point.

    My RDO although it may not be the lightest or even have the lightest parts on it but it does have. large RDO frame. Crest wheels/ ZTR hubs with Ikon Tyres EXC runing tubeless. ( The wheels will be replaced with Enve AM when I can get some to fit I9 endro hubs.)


    Yes, I am understanding your point that an RDO may be a worthy consideration for those interested in a 120mm fork and light build with a carbon frame.

    The above is based on the size XL (compared to your size L) and would include the much stiffer wheels via the Roval Carbon 29"er wheels compared to your Crest/ZTR wheels (or my current Industry Nine Enduro wheels). Your wheelset is not a bad wheelset at all (I race the Crests/DT Swiss 240 hubs on my JET), but they are no match for what something like a RIP (or I assume a JET RDO) can toss out - and they have a rider weight limit of 185'ish. Your Enve AM rims will most likely greatly improve your ride. I consider the Crests as XC race only rims for myself. I wouldn't be bashing them through serious rock chunk and technical trails for my weight.

    This bike is only just under 25 lb. So how much stronger / better would you build a sub 25 lb RIP9 to make it a better bike.

    I'm not sure we need to morph the discussion into using the word "better" or "stronger" when comparing the RDO to the RIP. The bikes are "different", but I would agree with you that it is closer to compare these two than a RIP vs. the aluminum 80mm rear travel JET. If one was setting up the RIP with a 120mm fork, yes - looking at the carbon RDO set up with a 120mm fork would be a worthy consideration of carbon frame vs. aluminum frame for a similar XC/Endurance/Trail bike - especially if one was doing a purpose built riding/racing rig that would come in at a sturdy, yet light weight. However, that's not what twenty6black asked.

    The discussion I started was based on a poster named twenty6black because he was curious enough to ask who had built the lightest RIP (and wondered if anyone had managed to get sub 25). I responded when at least three of you posted up the following statements/opinions:

    Originally Posted by muzzanic
    Sub 25lb is to low for a Rip9 & if someone did manage to do it, It wouldn't be a good Rip9 just a Light one.


    Originally Posted by epiphreddy
    Might as well hang that up. If you want to get that light you had better go with the Jet RDO or an Aluminum Jet. You'll still have to work at it either way.


    Originally Posted by JonathanM
    This would simultaneously answer another question. Who is having the least fun on their RIP?


    My response remains that - depending on frame size - the gear is certainly available to build up a 25 pound or even a sub 25 pound RIP 9 and have plenty of fun on the bike if one wanted to go that route. And it can be a very solid and great performing bike at that weight for XC and Trail riding. My XL RIP 9 will still be about 1.49 pounds more than a similarly built JET 9 (the aluminum frame), but for the extra travel and burly frame that the RIP affords - the weight penalty is worth it as the RIP is a much different performer out on the trail than the 80mm JET. Since I own and ride both, that is what I am basing my opinion/experience on.

    I know you want to throw in the RDO to compare since you own it and have previously owned and ridden the aluminum JET and the RIP - and that's fine from your standpoint - but the RDO is not exactly a RIP and vice versa. Maybe if the RIP comes out in carbon we can have a much better comparison between the two (at least when running 120mm forks). twenty6black just wanted to know who had the lightest RIP build.

    Thanks to the choices in the wider carbon rims (26-28mm) for 29"ers and wheelsets weighing 1440g - 1600g worthy of being mounted up on a RIP - the door is at last opened for some lighter RIP builds without sacrificing ride quality. Be that 25, 26 or even 27 pounds. Without wheels that can bash through what the RIP can throw at those wheels, speed and performance will be an issue. That's why I think the carbon rims are a game changer for a trail bike to keep the bash, but lower the rotating mass for improved performance. It's a matter of price and what one hangs on the bike after that to achieve various weights of 25, 26, 27 and 28 pounds for a RIP 9.

    And then, it takes us back full circle to a nice, fresh perspective on bike weight and speed of the bike.

    If one really wants to go light, yes - you have to pony up the $$$/€€€. The stock 100mm travel Specialized S-Works Epic carbon full suspension 29"er is 22.26 pounds stock out of the box in size XL and the entry fee is $10,500. And the stock 100mm travel top end Scott Spark RC carbon full suspension 29"er is 22.9 pounds stock out of the box with an entry fee of € 5999.

    BB
    Last edited by BruceBrown; 11-11-2011 at 05:56 AM.

  10. #310
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    Sub 25

    Im with Bruce! You need to pick carefully, but the parts are out there for not only a light build, but a strong one. Im 200-210lbs, and the Rip Im building should be between 25-26lbs. I could make that sub 25 but it would cost a lot to do it right! My priorities for the build come in this order:
    1) Reliable & Safe (huge brakes, strong bars, stem, crankset, wheels)
    2) Function (XTR, XX drivetrain, real tires etc)
    3) Weight (R1 Brakes and a prudent smatering of Ti hardware)
    Even as a Clyde, I dont think any of the parts Ive chosen even slightly compromise the function/intention of the RIp. The bike will be used for some endurance races, road trips and general abuse on varied terrain

    Here are the broad strokes:
    L Rip9 with 142x12 rear / f29 float with 15mm through axle
    American Classic wheels
    Formula R1's with 203/180 hope rotors
    XO cranks/homebrewed ring
    XX cassette
    XTR shift der etc
    Sunline stem
    Niner bar
    Tompson masterpiece
    Fizik carbon saddle

    Ill post the build when Im further along

  11. #311
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    More pictures!!!!

    <a href="http://s56.photobucket.com/albums/g192/morr5/?action=view&current=f76070c4.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g192/morr5/f76070c4.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos" /></a>

  12. #312
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    Quote Originally Posted by vwn8 View Post
    Im with Bruce! You need to pick carefully, but the parts are out there for not only a light build, but a strong one. Im 200-210lbs, and the Rip Im building should be between 25-26lbs. I could make that sub 25 but it would cost a lot to do it right!

    My priorities for the build come in this order:

    1) Reliable & Safe (huge brakes, strong bars, stem, crankset, wheels)
    2) Function (XTR, XX drivetrain, real tires etc)
    3) Weight (R1 Brakes and a prudent smatering of Ti hardware)

    Even as a Clyde, I dont think any of the parts Ive chosen even slightly compromise the function/intention of the RIp. The bike will be used for some endurance races, road trips and general abuse on varied terrain Ill post the build when Im further along
    Post it up when you are done.

    To be fair, my current 3 x 9 speed RIP is 27 and change. It is a very sturdy performing bike at that weight, yet I could achieve the same sturdy performance with a few changes (brakes, wheels, bar without sacrificing performance). My Excel spreadsheets are just examples of how one could achieve certain weights.

    I am contemplating a bit of a change for a possible performance gain by going to one of the new carbon wheel sets (Roval Trail SL). I might cut weight with a handlebar and brake change as well over the winter (could cut 314g by switching from Avid BB7's to XX's using my same Alligator Windcutter rotors) - but the wheels would be the majority of the performance gain in terms of feel out on the trail for me.

    The below two examples are what my current RIP is outfitted with and weighs, and the second spreadsheet is what I would do to cut weight (Avid XX brakes, Salsa carbon bar, Roval Trail SL wheels) to shave weight.

    Current 3 x 9 speed RIP which I race, use as a do-it-all trail bike and ride the most often:

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/6334233499/" title="Current RIP 9 3 x 9 by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6225/6334233499_4dabd06195.jpg" width="500" height="469" alt="Current RIP 9 3 x 9"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/6326946413/" title="RIPster November 2011 by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6032/6326946413_98a709da5b.jpg" width="500" height="329" alt="RIPster November 2011"></a>

    This is what the wheel change from the Industry Nine Enduro wheels to Roval Trail SL wheels (and there are lighter carbon wheels out there than what I am contemplating), brake change and handlebar change would do for my bike's overall weight as a 3 x 9 speed size XL RIP. I really don't see how the performance would diminish or not be as solid as it currently is for me provided I stay with a solid, yet light wheel such as the Roval Trail SL (or other trail/AM carbon rim).

    Not sure why I titled it 3 x 10 as it would be a 3 x 9:

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/6334233567/" title="RIP 3 x 9 with new carbon bits by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6038/6334233567_2ec2d9a003.jpg" width="500" height="463" alt="RIP 3 x 9 with new carbon bits"></a>

    Beyond that, as outlined in one of the above posts - I would go with a lighter stem (Syntace), and move to a 2 x 10 or 1 x 10 set up to get down even lower in weight. However, the performance gains for doing that are not going to be significant enough for my riding to warrant those changes and attempt in $$$ at the moment - but the parts are certainly available.

    Yes - it costs money. Scott bikes is a real leader in providing top end light Scales and Sparks where you pay much more money for the lighter versions of their bikes, and the cost lowers as the weight goes up. Ditto for the Specialized line up of 29"ers.

    In terms of the RIP. The solid frame, a solid fork and some solid wheels (now that the door is open for solid and light via carbon rims) pretty much remain a constant and do not diminish the ride quality of the RIP. The other bits and pieces one hangs on the bike will really determine 25, 26, 27 or more for a final RIP build.

  13. #313
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    Quote Originally Posted by vwn8 View Post
    Im with Bruce! You need to pick carefully, but the parts are out there for not only a light build, but a strong one. Im 200-210lbs, and the Rip Im building should be between 25-26lbs. I could make that sub 25 but it would cost a lot to do it right! My priorities for the build come in this order:
    1) Reliable & Safe (huge brakes, strong bars, stem, crankset, wheels)
    2) Function (XTR, XX drivetrain, real tires etc)
    3) Weight (R1 Brakes and a prudent smatering of Ti hardware)
    Even as a Clyde, I dont think any of the parts Ive chosen even slightly compromise the function/intention of the RIp. The bike will be used for some endurance races, road trips and general abuse on varied terrain

    Here are the broad strokes:
    L Rip9 with 142x12 rear / f29 float with 15mm through axle
    American Classic wheels
    Formula R1's with 203/180 hope rotors
    XO cranks/homebrewed ring
    XX cassette
    XTR shift der etc
    Sunline stem
    Niner bar
    Tompson masterpiece
    Fizik carbon saddle

    Ill post the build when Im further along
    Good luck with this build , It will be a very good fun bike to ride & I like the way you are not choosing to go to small rotor sizes like 160/140 to get the weight down & this is my point with making them lighter isn't all ways making them better.
    Also like that you are talking about real tyres, Because the Rip9 just beags you to push it hard & it is nice to have yourself being the limiting factor not the bike.

    I do still however think that you build as you have listed will not come out between 25 & 26 lb but as stated earlyer, super light weight is not what makes the Rip9 the great bike that it is.

    As for spread sheet weights, most ( but not all ) are build up with claimed weights that the guys that are selling them tell you they are. I maybe just unlucky but I have owned most of the parts in BB spread sheet & my bits sadly were not as light as ones listed.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  14. #314
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    Good luck with this build , It will be a very good fun bike to ride & I like the way you are not choosing to go to small rotor sizes like 160/140 to get the weight down & this is my point with making them lighter isn't all ways making them better.
    Also like that you are talking about real tyres, Because the Rip9 just beags you to push it hard & it is nice to have yourself being the limiting factor not the bike.

    I do still however think that you build as you have listed will not come out between 25 & 26 lb but as stated earlyer, super light weight is not what makes the Rip9 the great bike that it is.

    As for spread sheet weights, most ( but not all ) are build up with claimed weights that the guys that are selling them tell you they are. I maybe just unlucky but I have owned most of the parts in BB spread sheet & my bits sadly were not as light as ones listed.
    I could not agree more muzzanic. I would say that he will be doing really good if this build comes out under 27 Lbs. I hope we will be kept posted.

  15. #315
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    Good luck with this build , It will be a very good fun bike to ride & I like the way you are not choosing to go to small rotor sizes like 160/140 to get the weight down & this is my point with making them lighter isn't all ways making them better.
    For those that don't live in the mountains - larger rotors are a bit of overkill. At my weight, larger rotors are not needed. I did have 185mm's and 180mm's when I lived in the Alps. Howeer, I have found them to be too much for my needs in the Midwest of the USA. So smaller rotors were swapped for the larger critters. The 140 in the rear on Avid mechanical brakes is actually a good (and well known) way to "build in" some modulation to a mechanical disc brake to prevent the rear from locking up. It works pretty well and I've never been at a loss for braking since swapping to smaller rotors. Keep in mind, I'm talking racing where speed during the entire ride is crucial, so it's not like I've never had to brake suddenly before. ;-] Those rotor sizes do fine for me in the XC races in the hills and mountains as well (at least they have the past few seasons).

    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    Also like that you are talking about real tyres, Because the Rip9 just beags you to push it hard & it is nice to have yourself being the limiting factor not the bike.
    Real tyres? What qualifies as a "real" tire?

    Skill of the rider plays into it as well. Running tubeless 29"ers over the years I've found I can really push something with as much tread as an Ikon with no worries. I can certainly push the Ardent 2.4's as well, I just can't go as fast up the hills or on the flats with them. ;-]

    The RIP (and the JET) with the CVA do a fantastic job of keeping tires glued to the trail. I haven't found anywhere in the 6 state area where I ride that demanded more than an Ikon, Crossmark, Nano, Aspen, Racing Ralph type of tire (Beavers in the mud). If riding really chunky rock - sure, it's nice to have an Ardent or some such tough tire to let the big knobs hook up and stop the wincing of gnashing rubber on sharp rocks. However, the RIP is a bike that is very versatile and can handle a wide variety of riders and terrain. The lighter builds with what you are calling "not real tyres" and smaller rotors are fine and dandy for XC, trail riding, endurance racing. There is no rule that says a RIP must be built only to the AM side of riding. Or is there?

    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    As for spread sheet weights, most ( but not all ) are build up with claimed weights that the guys that are selling them tell you they are. I maybe just unlucky but I have owned most of the parts in BB spread sheet & my bits sadly were not as light as ones listed.
    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/2554329277/" title="Trimmed off of one tube by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3100/2554329277_a2abc0bd23.jpg" width="500" height="287" alt="Trimmed off of one tube"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/4057359030/" title="ScaledRIP by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2583/4057359030_5863c26bd1.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="ScaledRIP"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/4404319112/" title="WeighIn by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2702/4404319112_9a250ce3e0.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="WeighIn"></a>

    Jet #1 after finishing the initial build...

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/3336367704/" title="On the Alpine Scale by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3639/3336367704_4791e810c1.jpg" width="500" height="451" alt="On the Alpine Scale"></a>

    Scales are simple tools of the trade. I weigh it all: frame, fork, wheels, tires, components separately - enter them into the spreadsheet and then throw the entire bike on the hook as well after it is built. Sometimes the spreadsheet number is a few more grams than what the hook of the entire bike says, and sometimes it's a bit less. I don't think you find too many guys on the WW forum, Sicklines or the WW site finding any reason to fib about their component and bike weights. It sure is a heck of a lot easier than ordering up a bunch of SRAM X.0 or XX and "hoping" the weights are light. Best to know before you buy and use the plug and play of a spreadsheet to get a good idea of what a build could be or will be before laying down the cash.

  16. #316
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    Attn: All ye nay sayers

    I have an Air9 I use for Xterra races etc. However I needed a bike that would work for:
    -endurance races
    -out of town MTB trips
    -rough trail conditions
    -general trail use
    I though about holding out for an RDO or Ripley, but a bird in the hand . . . .

    This build was intended to be lightweight without any sacrifices in terms of reliability or function. A couple of the parts are place holders for stuff that hasnt shown up yet, but its only getting lighter and better from here:

    26lbs 3oz


    Simple and hopefully reliable chainguide. Im doing 1x10 because I rarely seem to use anything other than my middle ring

    I love the NIner bars!

    XX Cassette 11-36

    This has been a light strong and comfortable seat/post combo that Ive been using on other bikes for a few years

    15 through axle, 203 rotor

    142x12 through axle. 183 rotor, still need to get the right adaptor

    HIgh hopes for this derailleur clutch!

    Couldnt resist the killer machining on these caps


    It would be really easy to get into the 25lbs and likely the high 24's, but Im not going to try.
    Places I could save weight yet proud I havent:
    foam grips (not as comfy or secure)
    regular quick releases (quite a bit of weight here)
    non-tapered steerer
    smaller rotors or lighter ones like ashima/KCNC etc (Hope rotors are solid performers but not as light as they look)
    tires (running rampage/SB8)
    Many of these changes would be minor, but would make the bike less enjoyable.

  17. #317
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    Nice build, I like to see light builds were people still put on stuff that makes the bike work better for them even if it adds a little weight.

    I'm keen to hear what you think of the rear derailier, I ran sram on my Rip9 & had lots of chain slap untill I went with a 36 or up chain ring but that should fix the problem just fine.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  18. #318
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    Thanks!

    Ill post back after I get her on the trails in a couple days!

    I have XX on my other bike, but the sram chains just suck, theyre loud and they break (at least mine do Im back with shimano as far as mtb parts go!

  19. #319
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    That is a nice looking build. Do you have much climbing? Where I ride we have quite a bit and I would need two rings. One of my projects for this Winter is going to see what I can do to my Jet to get it down at least a pound or more. For starters I am going to build a race day wheelset. My everyday wheelset is a Chris King with rear Arch and front 355 with SuperComp spokes. I know I can save some weight with something other than that. I seem to have a heavy Medium Jet frame, it weighs 6.5 Lbs. What did your rip frame weigh?

  20. #320
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    Quote Originally Posted by vwn8 View Post
    Thanks!

    Ill post back after I get her on the trails in a couple days!

    I have XX on my other bike, but the sram chains just suck, theyre loud and they break (at least mine do Im back with shimano as far as mtb parts go!
    Have you tried KMC chains? I have had great luck for the last two years with the X9.99 (I think it is) for like $25 each shipped from Amazon. They seem to be very durable, last a long time and for $25 you just can't beat them.

  21. #321
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    Quote Originally Posted by epiphreddy View Post
    That is a nice looking build. Do you have much climbing? Where I ride we have quite a bit and I would need two rings. One of my projects for this Winter is going to see what I can do to my Jet to get it down at least a pound or more. For starters I am going to build a race day wheelset. My everyday wheelset is a Chris King with rear Arch and front 355 with SuperComp spokes. I know I can save some weight with something other than that. I seem to have a heavy Medium Jet frame, it weighs 6.5 Lbs. What did your rip frame weigh?
    Throw the Rovals on your JET to shed a pound and transform your ride.

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/6365946731/" title="Took a pound off of my RIP9 by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6120/6365946731_f04236809c_z.jpg" width="640" height="395" alt="Took a pound off of my RIP9"></a>

    They come in 2 flavors. 1440g or 1530g. I've got the Trail SL which I weighed today at 1520g for my pair....

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/6365947569/" title="Roval Trail SL's on the scale - 1520g by singingsingletracker, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6236/6365947569_3d0301ede7_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="Roval Trail SL's on the scale - 1520g"></a>


    1520g with valves

    Color me impressed with these dang wheels.

  22. #322
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    [QUOTE=vwn8;8642021]I have an Air9 I use for Xterra races etc. However I needed a bike that would work for:
    -endurance races
    -out of town MTB trips
    -rough trail conditions
    -general trail use
    I though about holding out for an RDO or Ripley, but a bird in the hand . . . .

    This build was intended to be lightweight without any sacrifices in terms of reliability or function. A couple of the parts are place holders for stuff that hasnt shown up yet, but its only getting lighter and better from here:

    26lbs 3oz


    vwn8, Looks fantastic! Just a suggestion...... I run a similar setup (1x9) on my RIP with a 32T chainring. Without a doubt, you WILL eventually smack that exposed linkeage on something nasty. A forum member sells a skidplate to protect it. If you search this thread you'll find a ton of info on it. That metal down there is soft.

  23. #323
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    [QUOTE=JSumner13;8645947]
    Quote Originally Posted by vwn8 View Post
    Just a suggestion...... I run a similar setup (1x9) on my RIP with a 32T chainring. Without a doubt, you WILL eventually smack that exposed linkeage on something nasty. A forum member sells a skidplate to protect it. If you search this thread you'll find a ton of info on it. That metal down there is soft.
    Cytoe is the mtbr member that makes the skid plate for the RIP. He usually has an ad in the classifieds - or at least every few months updates an ad. Here's a thread that shows the skid plate.

    I wish I had the ability to run a 32 single chainring and survive the longer steep climbs enough to recover.

  24. #324
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    Like yours, my rip frame was on the heavy side too. 3404g Size L

    I know about the skid, but here in the SF bay area we dont have many rocks. Also, I will likely hit the chainring before the link anyway. I also went sans bash ring on purpose, since those are for protecting rings that dont have a chain on them

    Hills? Yea lots! I dont think I can do a decent ride without a minimum of 2k' of climbing and 4-6k per ride is more the norm. That ring is a 30t and the cassette is 11-36 so that a pretty decent climbing gear (also Im a Clyde, so I need something at least kind of low). I was surprised that I dont find too many places where I want more gear. Usually I max out my ability to handle the terrain before I spin out the 30x11.

    The wheels on my hardtail are a lot like yours Bruce. 355's with Hope and Sapin blades. I would love a set of those Easton Carbon XC wheels, just waiting until theyre cheaper!

    Thanks for the kind words all!

  25. #325
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    Maiden voyage / shake down run today. This is my second Rip and I had forgotten just how good this bike is! At about 210lbs I ran the RP23 at 175 and my fox f29 at 105psi. This seemed pretty good, but I may try 180psi in the rear. The 142x12 rear was noticeable over my old standard qr setup. I'm using formula r1's w/200/180 rotors and even though the pads haven't fully bedded yet, this is a lot of brakes! Already 1 finger and still getting better. All said, I'm glad to be back on a rip and can't remember why I sold the last one!

    Edit
    Whoops, promised a report on the XTR Shadow+. In short its great, but not perfect. Der. function is unchanged, still great shimano shifting. The clutch is pretty neat. I would say chain slap is cut 70-90%. A good square edge hit will still put the chain into the stay, but most of the time its quiet, like single speed quiet. Honestly the loudest thing is now tire noise! Its worth its price and undoubtably will be available on an XT der. soon.
    Last edited by vwn8; 11-22-2011 at 10:56 AM.

  26. #326
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    Quote Originally Posted by vwn8 View Post
    That ring is a 30t and the cassette is 11-36 so that a pretty decent climbing gear (also Im a Clyde, so I need something at least kind of low). I was surprised that I dont find too many places where I want more gear. Usually I max out my ability to handle the terrain before I spin out the 30x11.

    The wheels on my hardtail are a lot like yours Bruce. 355's with Hope and Sapin blades. I would love a set of those Easton Carbon XC wheels, just waiting until theyre cheaper!
    Well, now the 30T with an 11-36 sounds a bit better to me than what I thought you had said - a 32T ring. I pretty much stay in my 30T middle ring on my RIP with an 11-34 cassette. But even the 30-34 combo keeps me on my toes on the steep climbs with little chance for any recovery. I could see with a 11-36 cassette in the rear it would be a doable 1 x 10 for the RIP where I ride and race.

    BB

  27. #327
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    Who uses FSA zero stack headset on their RIP9 2011? Any issues being encountered?

    My RIP9 2011 is producing a creaking sound in the headtube area MOST of the time when I am out of the saddle during climbs, hit small bumps during rides and when I bomb up my front end even in a stationary position. I dont think the wheelset has got something to do with this as I just bought a new one nor the cable wires which normally produces sound due to friction. I suspect it has something to do with my headset as I experimented holding my headtube and felt a vibration everytime it produces that sound. My headset is FSA zero stack 2011, my fork is an oem fox f29, FIT tapered, cut steerer tube just enough to accomodate 12.5mm spacer and a 3mm space from the top of the stem to the top of the steerer tube. Please advise. TIA!

  28. #328
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    Have you taken it apart yet?

  29. #329
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    yup,greased and repackaged it. the sound is still there. it produces that sound even if im just bumping my wheels on a wall

  30. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by LGavin View Post
    yup,greased and repackaged it. the sound is still there. it produces that sound even if im just bumping my wheels on a wall
    Hi

    So you have the right race on the steerer tube that sits on the crown ?

    How much air gap do you have between the top of the steerer tube & the top cap ? are you sure you are pulling it all up tight enough ?
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  31. #331
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    @muzzanic- well I suppose it the correct crown for the headset as my mechanic was the one who assembled it.

  32. #332
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    Ok well take the top cap off & make sure that the steerer tube sits approx1.5mm down from the top of the stem because the cap sits down into the stem & there needs to be a air gap between the 2 when it is all done up.
    Note with the stem bolts loose if you tighten down the top to much then the settering will get stiff, Does this happen ?
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  33. #333
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    @muzzanic- Yep done that as well. =) creaking is still there. I can feel it on my headtube so isuspect its because of the headset. Could it be my rear shock? i hope not!

  34. #334
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    Would repressing of the headset cups solve the issue?

  35. #335
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    Third Times A Charm

    First RIP was stolen out of my office basement, never really got to ride it. Stuck with a medium frame when I replaced it and decided it was too small. Sold that frame and purchased a large and it is PERFECT. A bit of dirt over 28 pounds and while I could do some things to lighten her up a bit it worth the loss of function (namely losing 2x in the front) to me.

    Large RIP9 Frame
    Rockshox Revelation fork
    Cane Creek 110 headset
    Easton EA90 80 mm stem zero rise
    Niner Carbon Flattop bars cut to 670mm
    Industry Nine Enduro wheelset (flow rims)
    Schwalbe Nobby nics front and back
    Salsa flip-off skewer rear
    Selle Italia SLR XC saddle
    Easton EC90 Seatpost
    Salsa Liplock seatpost binder
    Avid 2011 XO brakes with 180 rotor front and 160 rotor rear
    SRAM X0 9 speed shifters and rear derailleur
    Shimano SLX 2X front derailleur
    Truvativ Noir crankset with blackspire superpro 24-36 chainrings and bashguard
    SRAM 11-34 casstte
    Connex 9 speed chain
    Time ATAC XS carbon pedals
    ESI Chunky grips


    12-17-11_5760 by chrisroundy, on Flickr" width="549">

    12-17-11_5759 by chrisroundy, on Flickr" width="549">

    12-17-11_5753 by chrisroundy, on Flickr" width="549">

    12-17-11_5762 by chrisroundy, on Flickr" width="549">

    12-17-11_5761 by chrisroundy, on Flickr" width="549">

    And for those of you in cold climates a shot with the winter tires (adds an even 2 pounds to the bike for over 800 studs!).

    12-17-11_5764 by chrisroundy, on Flickr" width="549">
    Last edited by tri-tele; 12-17-2011 at 08:57 AM.

  36. #336
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    Great build, those wheels look really good! Love the tires too, (though living in CA at 60 feet above sea level I fear I will never own a set of my own )

  37. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by tri-tele View Post

    12-17-11_5762 by chrisroundy, on Flickr" width="549">
    Yummy looking ride. Is your saddle pointing to the left just a bit?

  38. #338
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    Been looking at the RIP 9 lately and quick question, I'm 6'4" and 240 lbs, most likely settle on an XL frame, BUT how friendly is the stock Fox RP23 shock for someone my weight? Any trouble there?
    konahonzo

  39. #339
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    I am 195 = race season and 215 = winter. Likely Im around 235 with gear. I havent had an issue with the RP-23 with the stock low volume air can. Ive run as high as 180psi, but Ive been working my way down and now Im around 170 and its working much better.

  40. #340
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    yea i got a rip or something...

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/27626943@N03/6667359403/" title="rip9_le dirty by lexmolokin, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7166/6667359403_6e8a3fcfe6_b.jpg" width="1024" height="765" alt="rip9_le dirty"></a>

  41. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Been looking at the RIP 9 lately and quick question, I'm 6'4" and 240 lbs, most likely settle on an XL frame, BUT how friendly is the stock Fox RP23 shock for someone my weight? Any trouble there?
    I'm bigger than you by 50 pounds. I sent mine to PUSH. It made a world of difference. I also did the same a long time ago when I was a 'mere' 255 and was riding an Ibis Mojo. Same deal. The shocks were always so hard to dial in because I was at the upper end of pressure, so the behavior was much more 'feel noodly and saggy or way too stiff' rather than being able to adjust things by degrees.

    For what it's worth, the fork didn't need it nearly as much as the rear shock did. When I got it PUSHed the improvement was definitely felt, but it was incremental rather than 'holy **** now I see what I've been missing'.

    IMO, someone in your weight class should consider getting PUSH treatment for the rear shock just as a matter of course. When you factor it in to the total cost of the bike, it's not much. If you want to totally dial it in, get the fork done too, but that's getting in to some real money, so I bet you'd be fine with just the rear.

  42. #342
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    Here's the revised RIP.
    - New XL frame
    - New fork (White Brothers Fluid 150 shimmed down to 138mm)
    - PUSH rebuild on rear shock (the sticker is probably a bit hard to see )



    Edit: much better picture
    Last edited by schnee; 01-16-2012 at 07:44 PM.

  43. #343
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    Quote Originally Posted by schnee View Post
    I'm bigger than you by 50 pounds. I sent mine to PUSH. It made a world of difference. I also did the same a long time ago when I was a 'mere' 255 and was riding an Ibis Mojo. Same deal. The shocks were always so hard to dial in because I was at the upper end of pressure, so the behavior was much more 'feel noodly and saggy or way too stiff' rather than being able to adjust things by degrees.

    For what it's worth, the fork didn't need it nearly as much as the rear shock did. When I got it PUSHed the improvement was definitely felt, but it was incremental rather than 'holy **** now I see what I've been missing'.

    IMO, someone in your weight class should consider getting PUSH treatment for the rear shock just as a matter of course. When you factor it in to the total cost of the bike, it's not much. If you want to totally dial it in, get the fork done too, but that's getting in to some real money, so I bet you'd be fine with just the rear.
    Thanks!
    konahonzo

  44. #344
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    Man this thing is smooootttthhhh.............

    2011 Rip9 (large) Raw Luminous --- Cytoe's bash guard installed
    2011 Reba RL 120mm / 20mm Maxle
    Cane Crrek 40 headset
    1x9 SRAM X9 shifter and X9 rear med der (XO 11-34 cassette), Jagwire cable
    SRAM 991 chain
    XT 175mm cranks w/ 32T Blackspire Mono ring (MRP 1X chain keeper)
    Cheap shimano pedals
    Flows on Hope Pro 2 hubs, DT swiss spokes / nips (set-up tubeless) wrapped with RR 2.4's
    Thomson stem and seatpost (Salsa seatpost clamp)
    Serfas gel Tri seat
    Avid Elixer 5's with 160/160 rotors
    Loaded Pecision AmXc 710mm bar with Lizard Shin Charger Lock-ons (ODI bar end caps)

    A hair over 29 lbs with pedals....



    Last edited by HOLLYWOOD33; 01-12-2012 at 01:50 PM.

  45. #345
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    The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-imageuploadedbytapatalk1326701185.620929.jpgRipper II
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-imageuploadedbytapatalk1326701338.919229.jpg  

    The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-imageuploadedbytapatalk1326701623.323668.jpg  

    The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-imageuploadedbytapatalk1326701796.725533.jpg  

    The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-imageuploadedbytapatalk1326701910.479730.jpg  

    The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-imageuploadedbytapatalk1326702275.642581.jpg  


  46. #346
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    medium NINER RIP 9
    licorice anodized
    saint cranks, 1x10, slx drivetrain


    Answer stem


    Fox 32 talas 29 fit terralogic


    Maxxis ardent 2.4 on velocity p35 rims laced with dt swiss spokes


    Hope Pro 2 evo hubs


    currently with a generic chainguide, still waiting for my N GEAR JUMPSTOP to arrive thru mail

  47. #347
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    Nice
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  48. #348
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    Medium RIP9 Frame
    Fox F29 fork
    FSA headset
    Ritchey 110mm stem
    Bontrager bars
    ZTR flow rims & ZTR hubs
    Maxxis CrossMark front and rear (Tubeless)
    XT rear skewer
    Specialized Format SL seat, TI rails
    XCR Pro carbon seatpost
    Avid Elixir R brakes, 180/160
    Shimano SLX shifters
    Shimano XT front and rear derailleurs (3x9)
    SLX 3 speed crankset
    XT casstte (i think)
    Dura-Ace chain
    Time ATAC XS carbon pedals
    Ergon grips
    On my buddy's scale it weighs 29.2lbs

    New tires and seat since the photo, but this is it:

  49. #349
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    Nice!
    Rip9's

  50. #350
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellytronics View Post
    yea i got a rip or something...

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/27626943@N03/6667359403/" title="rip9_le dirty by lexmolokin, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7166/6667359403_6e8a3fcfe6_b.jpg" width="1024" height="765" alt="rip9_le dirty"></a>

    Jelly.....What's the scoop on that bashwich ya got going on there? Sizes, etc...

  51. #351
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    Mine is now for sale if anyone lurking this thread is interested in a great bike:

    Here's the link to the classified ad: Niner RIP9 Full Suspension Mountain Bike 29er w/ XTR
    Stop in at Element Sports. www.elementsport.com
    Get Out! Have Fun!

  52. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by JSumner13 View Post
    Jelly.....What's the scoop on that bashwich ya got going on there? Sizes, etc...
    The inner bash is a BBG 64 bcd (Products). Outer is just what the race face ride crankset came with.

  53. #353
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    Just finished my '11 RIP 9 raw small frame build Friday night and got to test it this weekend. It's not the lightest bike but it performs!
    I figured out I need a new crank to change my gearing (the FSA 29/42 isn't cutting it). I have a XTR triple front dérailleur, but my real question is

    Do you guys prefer a double or triple ring crank on your RIP 9?

    Trying To figure out which crankset to buy...stuck between XTR & XO, & double or triple ring.

  54. #354
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    36/22 on XT arms w/ SLX FD. Works great.
    G

  55. #355
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMX_DBC View Post
    Just finished my '11 RIP 9 raw small frame build Friday night and got to test it this weekend. It's not the lightest bike but it performs!
    I figured out I need a new crank to change my gearing (the FSA 29/42 isn't cutting it). I have a XTR triple front dérailleur, but my real question is

    Do you guys prefer a double or triple ring crank on your RIP 9?

    Trying To figure out which crankset to buy...stuck between XTR & XO, & double or triple ring.
    I have SLX/XT group w/triple ring crank right now. I am going to change it over to all XT 2x10 fairly soon...like before I wear out what I have and make it worth less on ebay.

    I am not sure if XO shifters can upshift by either a push or a pull the lever like the Shimano, which is why for now (until I find the answer to this) I am thinking XT. It's just a preference I have.

  56. #356
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    I started with SRAM 2x10 (39/26). The 39 was too big and the 26 felt too small. Currently running a 1x10 and I couldn't be happier.

    Simplify.

  57. #357
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    I'm getting really excited about my new RIP9. I picked up a barely-used frame and a Marz fork both for good prices last fall. I got some velocity blunt rims a few weeks ago. Last week, I ordered everything else from Biker Bob, Universal Cycles and Dan's Comp. Everything should arrive by Monday.

    I feel like it is a fairly thrifty build, coming in just under $2.7k for everything.

    Rider: 195#, 6'2", 35" inseam
    Frame: 2011 RIP9, Large, Raw, 12x142 rear
    Fork: Marz 44 Micro Ti 140mm
    Hubs: White Industries MI6 32H black
    Rims: Velocity Blunt (black)
    Nipples: Wheelsmith red alloy
    Spoke: Sapim double butted
    Tires: Kenda Nevegal DTC 29er Tire 2.2"
    Brakes: Elixir CR (203F/185R)
    Seatpost: Spec Command post
    Crankset: SLX 3x9 (will put bash on in place of big ring)
    Shifters: X.0 twist (9sp)
    Front derailleur: X.9 (9sp)
    Rear derailleur: Sram X.9 (9sp)
    Cassette: Sram PG 990 Cassette, Red, 11-34
    Chain: Sram 991
    Stem: Stylo t20 (75mm)
    Bars: Stylo team (20mm rise)
    Grips: Ergon GP1 Twist Shift Grips (9sp)
    Pedals: Shimano 520

  58. #358
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDM View Post
    I'm getting really excited about my new RIP9. I picked up a barely-used frame and a Marz fork both for good prices last fall. I got some velocity blunt rims a few weeks ago. Last week, I ordered everything else from Biker Bob, Universal Cycles and Dan's Comp. Everything should arrive by Monday.

    I feel like it is a fairly thrifty build, coming in just under $2.7k for everything.

    Rider: 195#, 6'2", 35" inseam
    Frame: 2011 RIP9, Large, Raw, 12x142 rear
    Fork: Marz 44 Micro Ti 140mm
    Hubs: White Industries MI6 32H black
    Rims: Velocity Blunt (black)
    Nipples: Wheelsmith red alloy
    Spoke: Sapim double butted
    Tires: Kenda Nevegal DTC 29er Tire 2.2"
    Brakes: Elixir CR (203F/185R)
    Seatpost: Spec Command post
    Crankset: SLX 3x9 (will put bash on in place of big ring)
    Shifters: X.0 twist (9sp)
    Front derailleur: X.9 (9sp)
    Rear derailleur: Sram X.9 (9sp)
    Cassette: Sram PG 990 Cassette, Red, 11-34
    Chain: Sram 991
    Stem: Stylo t20 (75mm)
    Bars: Stylo team (20mm rise)
    Grips: Ergon GP1 Twist Shift Grips (9sp)
    Pedals: Shimano 520
    Nice. I'd love to have that build at that price.

  59. #359
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellytronics View Post
    The inner bash is a BBG 64 bcd (Products). Outer is just what the race face ride crankset came with.
    Thanks for the info!

  60. #360
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    I finished getting my new RIP assembled this weekend. I have it setup with lower riser bars, a 75mm stem flipped up and no spacers right now (6'2", 35" inseam) and it feels about right. It will take a real ride to be more sure.



  61. #361
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDM View Post
    I'm getting really excited about my new RIP9. I picked up a barely-used frame and a Marz fork both for good prices last fall. I got some velocity blunt rims a few weeks ago. Last week, I ordered everything else from Biker Bob, Universal Cycles and Dan's Comp. Everything should arrive by Monday.

    I feel like it is a fairly thrifty build, coming in just under $2.7k for everything.

    Rider: 195#, 6'2", 35" inseam

    Brakes: Elixir CR (203F/185R)
    How do you like the stopping power with this rotor size? I am thinking of upgrading from a pair of 2009 Juicy 7's 185F/160R to some AVID X0 203F/185R, I am 6'1" 220. I don't have too many complaints about the current setup other than the difficulty in properly bleeding the Juicy brakes and the desire to upgrade. I was just wondering how the larger rotors fit and perform.
    Making Milk by Day, Beer by Night

  62. #362
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    Fit is no problem.

    I really can't comment much about the performance of the brakes yet. I haven't gotten to do any real riding, just a little tooling around my icy driveway. I was able to slow down without locking up so I guess I could conclude that modulation is still acceptable even with the big rotors.

    I was planning to try some non-avid brakes on this bike, but couldn't turn down the Elixir CRs from BikerBob for $105 each. I know the Elixir reviews aren't great, but reviews are even worse on Juicy 3s and those worked fine for me on my last bike.

    If your current levers and calipers are working well you could just get a bigger rotors.

  63. #363
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    good

  64. #364
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pynis McDermott View Post
    How do you like the stopping power with this rotor size? I am thinking of upgrading from a pair of 2009 Juicy 7's 185F/160R to some AVID X0 203F/185R, I am 6'1" 220. I don't have too many complaints about the current setup other than the difficulty in properly bleeding the Juicy brakes and the desire to upgrade. I was just wondering how the larger rotors fit and perform.
    Hi I used to run the Juicy 7 with 203 f & 185 rear & they were ok but not mind blowing.

    I'm now running XX on my bikes,

    I went with 185mm XX rotors on some other bikes & the XX rotors give much better stopping power even on the cheaper Avids.

    Now I'm running the 180mm HSX rotors & they are also good.

    I have never had any major with my avid's but know plenty that have.

    I would look at going to the Shimano XT Trail brake if I were you,heaps of stopping power & less problems with brake pads rubbing on rotors.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  65. #365
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDM View Post
    I finished getting my new RIP assembled this weekend. I have it setup with lower riser bars, a 75mm stem flipped up and no spacers right now (6'2", 35" inseam) and it feels about right. It will take a real ride to be more sure.


    Looks like a really fun build. Congrats!

    Hopefully your snow melts off and you get to ride before too long.

    BB

  66. #366
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    We got a few more inches last night, but every day next week will be int he 50s and 60s. I'll have the road bike out at least. The mountain bike should only be a couple weeks behind. One of our local trails systems (Franklin Falls) drains so well that it is rideable as soon as the ice is gone.

  67. #367
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    Quote Originally Posted by Camel Toad View Post
    Medium RIP9 Frame
    Fox F29 fork
    FSA headset
    Ritchey 110mm stem
    Bontrager bars
    ZTR flow rims & ZTR hubs
    Maxxis CrossMark front and rear (Tubeless)
    XT rear skewer
    Specialized Format SL seat, TI rails
    XCR Pro carbon seatpost
    Avid Elixir R brakes, 180/160
    Shimano SLX shifters
    Shimano XT front and rear derailleurs (3x9)
    SLX 3 speed crankset
    XT casstte (i think)
    Dura-Ace chain
    Time ATAC XS carbon pedals
    Ergon grips
    On my buddy's scale it weighs 29.2lbs
    Updated:
    Brand new mostly XT drivetrain 2x10 installed this week (XT crank, bb, shifters, front derailleur, chain, cassette, cables), and a XTR Shadow Plus rear derailleur.


    Now to clean up the other parts and get them on eBay!
    Last edited by Camel Toad; 03-23-2012 at 01:45 PM.

  68. #368
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    Nobby Nics on the RIP

    I decided to run the Nobby Nic 2.35 front and rear on the RIP and a big after the first two days of riding. Can pretty much throw myself at whatever on the trail with these tires and bike and it all gets eaten up. Makes mountain biking too easy....

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/6982027119/" title="Nics by BBcamerata, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7209/6982027119_7a632c37e8_z.jpg" width="640" height="438" alt="Nics"></a>

  69. #369
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    So what's the concensus on the RIP rear end TA upgrade? Anyone notice a significant difference on the trail?

    Oh, and BTW, been riding my RIP for a few weeks now. Amazing bike. Far exceeded my expectations.

  70. #370
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Makes mountain biking too easy....
    I just got my first chance to ride my Rip on some slightly technical terrain and had the same feeling. I felt like I was cheating. The bike truly feels great.

    Quote Originally Posted by Pynis McDermott View Post
    How do you like the stopping power with this rotor size?
    The brakes are great. Easy one-finger operation, no trouble modulating and silent (for now anyway).

  71. #371
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    So what's the concensus on the RIP rear end TA upgrade? Anyone notice a significant difference on the trail?

    Oh, and BTW, been riding my RIP for a few weeks now. Amazing bike. Far exceeded my expectations.
    i have the 12x142 maxle kit that has just recently been available. i previously (last year) had the 12x135 maxle kit as well. huge differnce in rear end flex, or lack there of now. quality $85 bucks spent.

  72. #372
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    Finally got around to snapping some photos of the new drivetrain yesterday... more in gallery if you're interested.


  73. #373
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    FNG here, second season on the RIP. Built it up at Big Kahuna Cycles in Littleton, CO.

    -Main purpose (XC, AM, etc): XC
    -Trail location/terrain: CO Front Range and high country
    -Frame Year/Size/Color: '10/small/black
    -Rider Weight: 200
    -Rider Height/Inseam: 5'10"/31"
    -Stem (length/rise): Easton Haven, 70mm, 0°
    -Seatpost: Easton Haven Carbon
    -Seat: WTB Valcon
    -Handlebar: Niner Flat Top with a bell
    -Grips: ODI Cross-trainer lock-ons
    -Rear Shock: RP23
    -Rear settings (psi, etc.): 160psi, 4 clicks from slowest rebound, #3 ProPedal
    -Fork: Reba RL 20mm thru-axle, 140mm travel
    -Fork settings (psi, etc.): 125/110 pos/neg. 3 clicks from slowest rebound.
    -Brake Setup: Elixer CR, 180f/160r
    -Drivetrain Setup: 2x10, SRAM X9
    -Tires: Maxxis Ardent 2.4" front, Maxxis Ignitor Exo 2.2 rear
    -Wheels: Stan's Flow on Stans 3.30 hubs
    -Pedals: Shimano PD-M858 (old school!)
    -Build Weight: 27.4


  74. #374
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    Nice! Updated my rip 9 with the on one fleegle bars, this bars are the perfect flat bars for me., no pain, nice control, nice width 720mm. Downside is a bit heavy. Will post a pic soon. Updated also my 1x10 drivetrain with bbg bashwich, niner 32t chainring, race face turbine crank, ultimate trail bike.

  75. #375
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    Here's mine, a large, black RIP. Fox Talas forks, SRAM X0 throughout, Hope Pro II/ ZTR Arch wheels, Thomson/ Niner cockpit and a weight of 12,3kg or 27,1lbs on a not too steady scale.

    I've had one season on it, and can't wait for the next to start!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-img_1461.jpg  

    The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-img_1678.jpg  

    When I see an adult on a bicycle, I do not despair for the future of the human race. ~H.G. Wells

  76. #376
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    pics

    2012 rip 9 medium ano black
    2012 fox 32 talas 29
    2012 slx brakes, RD, shifter
    race face turbine 175 crank
    niner 32t single chain ring
    answer DJ stem
    ergon grips
    hurtle pedals
    velocity p35 rims laced with dt swiss spokes and nipples
    hope pro 2 evo hubs
    selle royale wave saddle for extra comfort for long epic rides
    chris king inset headset
    on one fleegle bar 720mm wide
    BBG bashwich






  77. #377
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    nice bike

  78. #378
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    nice

  79. #379
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    I wish i would have choose a ano black RIP9.

  80. #380
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    If your using nokon housing , oil the housing that will remove the creaking

  81. #381
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    Thanks for the nice comments

  82. #382
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    What size of RIP9 woul'd you recommend for 6,2" guy with 36 insean?

  83. #383
    JDM
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peterp079 View Post
    What size of RIP9 woul'd you recommend for 6,2" guy with 36 insean?
    I'm 6'2" with a 35.5" inseam. I ride a Large with a 75mm stem and I like the fit.

  84. #384
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peterp079 View Post
    What size of RIP9 woul'd you recommend for 6,2" guy with 36 insean?
    Hmmmm....L or XL depending on your torso, arm length, fork travel choice and your preferred position on the bike (aggressive, upright, etc...). The head tube length is 15mm shorter on the size L than the XL, so with your seat height requirements with your inseam - the drop from the saddle to the L will require different plumbing than a size XL would require. Pretty sure you could make both work, but it would be nice for you to demo both sizes.

    Todd Wells is a pro XC racer that is exactly your height with a similar inseam and he rides XL bikes - or size 21" frames. Check out his set ups and specs from Specialized Epic S-Works and Stumpjumper S-Works. Different bikes than the RIP, but pretty close measurements in frames between the XL's from both Niner and Specialized.


    My inseam is a 1/2" less than yours, but I'm a bit taller ( 1 1/2") and ride the XL RIP with zero spacers, 120mm length stem, and the stem is flipped -6 using a 120mm fork.

    Test ride if you can.

    BB

  85. #385
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    Hmm... It's my usual problem with the bikes being between sizes L and XL. My other bike Giant Trance is XL and it fits me perfect. In the L seat tube wasn't long enough fot my legs. The only think I am affraid of in RIP XL is long top tube... I prefer upright position more than aggressive. Plus I have some lower back issues when my position is too much like XC riders...

  86. #386
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    I'm the same exact size and the large with 100mm stem is perfect. I run the talas 34 140/110.

  87. #387
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    Here's my rig.

    2012 Rip Large
    *Full XTR - Rotors are 205 / 180.
    *Reverb
    *Fox Talas 34 140/110
    *King Headset
    *1X10
    *Fizik saddle
    *Race Face Sixc Bars
    *Roval Control SL wheels
    *Geax AKA 29 - tubeless
    *Crank pedals
    *Sunline 100m xc stem.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-img_1901%5B1%5D.jpg  

    The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-img_1906%5B1%5D.jpg  

    The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-img_1905%5B1%5D.jpg  


  88. #388
    Carbon & Ti rule
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    Nice bike
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  89. #389
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gutch View Post
    2012 Rip Large
    *Full XTR - Rotors are 205 / 180.
    *Reverb
    *Fox Talas 34 140/110
    *King Headset
    *1X10
    *Fizik saddle
    *Race Face Sixc Bars
    *Roval Control SL wheels
    *Geax AKA 29 - tubeless
    *Crank pedals
    *Sunline 100m xc stem.
    Nice bike!
    Wish i had the fox 34 talas 29 140, but it is not available here in the philippines yet, settled for the fox 32 talas 29 120. Sigh! The stance and the bike looks meaner and beefier with the fox 34.

  90. #390
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    Thanks. I went from Rip to jet 9 RDO, now back to Rip! This set up is hella stable and is awesome in the mountains. My old rip had the 120 talas and I prefer the 140 for the gnarlier drops etc. 120 is good though.

  91. #391
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    This is also the reason why i also settled for the fox32 for my rip. 140mm seems to be overkill for my riding style now, recreational trail rider here. Gone are the days of the big hits and drops. Family man here and i guess it is also age that made me lay low in my riding style. Thus fox 32 was enough for me, but i still want that fox34. Just to make my bike look beefier and the stance nicer. LOL!

  92. #392
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    Hey, I'm 42 and two young children. Family man as well. If you were riding some trails here in Pisgah you would enjoy the 140. Although there are guys on rigid here that can smoke me!! I love this Rip. Are you running a dropper?

  93. #393
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    Nope. I just use an ordinary truvativ seat post. Guess your are right? But 120mm for the trails that i ride here in the philippines is enough. But having a 140 would make the ride more plush, coz i can lower fork pressure to around 30% sag and still have enough travel.
    Ride safe bro. M just a bit younger than you. Cheers

  94. #394
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gutch View Post
    Hey, I'm 42 and two young children. Family man as well. If you were riding some trails here in Pisgah you would enjoy the 140. Although there are guys on rigid here that can smoke me!! I love this Rip. Are you running a dropper?
    Gutch, how are the Rovals on AM? I'm not taking any big hits in MN here, but always saw them as a very XC wheel. Any issues?

    I loved your RDO, why did you switch to a RIP?

    Where's your RDO? Haha! I've been looking at getting one.

  95. #395
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    Fork: RockShox Reba XX set at 120mm w/remote lock
    Stem: Before Truvativ AKA. Now Truvativ Stylo
    Handlebar: Raceface Atlas
    Grips: Ergon GS1
    Wheels: American Classic All Mountain
    Tires: Maxxis Ikon / Tubeless
    Brakes: Shimano SLX Hydraulic
    Saddle: Selle Flite
    Seatpost: Raceface Carbon Next SL
    Seatpost Clamp: Niner / Red
    Pedals: Before Shimano 520s. Now Shimano XT
    Crank Arms: Shimano SLX
    Chainring: Before Raceface 36t. Now E13 36t.
    Chainguide: MRP 1X
    Rear Derailleur: Shimano XT
    Shifter: Shimano XT
    Cassette: Shimano XT 10 speed 11-34t
    Chain: KMC X10 SL Gold
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-black-mamba.jpg  

    The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-bm1.jpg  

    The RIP9 Setup Thread (all years, forever and ever)-bm2.jpg  


  96. #396
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    Quote Originally Posted by danvar View Post
    Fork: RockShox Reba XX set at 120mm w/remote lock
    Stem: Before Truvativ AKA. Now Truvativ Stylo
    Handlebar: Raceface Atlas
    Grips: Ergon GS1
    Wheels: American Classic All Mountain
    Tires: Maxxis Ikon / Tubeless
    Brakes: Shimano SLX Hydraulic
    Saddle: Selle Flite
    Seatpost: Raceface Carbon Next SL
    Seatpost Clamp: Niner / Red
    Pedals: Before Shimano 520s. Now Shimano XT
    Crank Arms: Shimano SLX
    Chainring: Before Raceface 36t. Now E13 36t.
    Chainguide: MRP 1X
    Rear Derailleur: Shimano XT
    Shifter: Shimano XT
    Cassette: Shimano XT 10 speed 11-34t
    Chain: KMC X10 SL Gold
    You must have legs of superman to go 36t on a 1x10 drivetrain!
    Mine is 32t, 1x10 drivetrain, and i sometimes have to exert a little more on long climbs. But with a 36t i would just walk to the top. Point it down and the 36t would be nice.

  97. #397
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    Quote Originally Posted by five5 View Post
    Gutch, how are the Rovals on AM? I'm not taking any big hits in MN here, but always saw them as a very XC wheel. Any issues?

    I loved your RDO, why did you switch to a RIP?

    Where's your RDO? Haha! I've been looking at getting one.
    The Rovals rock. Strong as dirt. I went back to the RIP because I like the geometry better and im not an endurance racer at elite level. I wanted a bike that I could travel with anywhere and ride any terrain. I also wanted more travel up front. A gentlemen in CA just recieved my RDO.

  98. #398
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    Hey Danvar, Nice RIDE!! I like your bike.

  99. #399
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    Quote Originally Posted by barnbig View Post
    You must have legs of superman to go 36t on a 1x10 drivetrain!
    Mine is 32t, 1x10 drivetrain, and i sometimes have to exert a little more on long climbs. But with a 36t i would just walk to the top. Point it down and the 36t would be nice.
    32 is too small for me. I was considering 38 but that would have definitely been overkill. I feel 36 is perfect for the trails we have down here in South Florida.

    ..............Thanks Glutch

  100. #400
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gutch View Post
    The Rovals rock. Strong as dirt. I went back to the RIP because I like the geometry better and im not an endurance racer at elite level. I wanted a bike that I could travel with anywhere and ride any terrain. I also wanted more travel up front. A gentlemen in CA just recieved my RDO.
    Very nice, I'm not a racer either, so I've been toying with lightening up the RIP a little, and sticking with it. Good info!

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